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YOUR RESEARCHTitanium lug bolts?
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Run world motorsports ti lug bolts
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i ran the world motorsports ti lug bolts for about 5 years on my 987 no problems.
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My 69 with 73 Carerra suspension used steel studs and Aluminum Lug nuts.
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My wheel bolts don�t look all that great, and I noticed a website had some titanium ones for sale. The cost is a negative, but the rotational weight savings is a plus. Anyone know more about them? Are they a good thing?
I picked up a set of these last year. Beautifully machined, light as feather, but most importantly clean. I did the paint thing, but within a couple of times on and off, the paint all chipped off again and looked crap. Ti ones stay looking nice.
For me it was all about rust. Because of the lug nut inset, it is difficult to dry out the lug nuts after a wash. So I got the titanium lug bolts. They do not rust. Make sure if you have spacers to get the correct length.
rotational weight saving on these is about the same as just removing the $250 from your wallet. In other words, totally unnoticeable. Anyone who tells you otherwise is 100% full of crap.
remove your bolts, wire wheel them, prime them, and paint with a high quality paint or something like por 15. Done.
I got the World Motorsports ones from Pelican last year. Happy with them so far. Like others, one of the big reasons was because my old ones had chipped paint and rust. Never have to worry about that again.
I know spacers will affect which bolts are used. I was considering the Rennline 10mm spacers for the rear. Is there a reason why I should or shouldn�t do spacers? If I�m going to get new bolts, I need to figure out the spacers first!
I didn�t like the rusty look of my OEM bolts so I paid $230 for a set of 20 off eBay. I skipped paying the extra $90 for wheel locks and the extra $95 for the black version. I wrote a review stating the weight savings but it was never posted. I do remember I weighed each bolt and the total weight savings was significant but not close to half the weight of the OEM bolts. I say this because in the description of the product it mentioned that titanium was 50% lighter than steel.
Best part is they don't rust or normally gall in the threads.. To me that's worth it..
Done many Ti bolt kits on sprint cars,, 2500 bucks + to save a couple lbs..
In a 600 to 800 hp car that weighs 1200 lbs.. "Weight is not the reason your car is slow" LOL
But the Bolt kits did make it way easier to service the car.
I bought titanium for looks rather than weight savings. I had brand new BBS wheels and I couldn't bring myself to use the old ugly bolts. There is a member here that had a bad experience with titanium bolts so that is always a little bit in the back of my mind.
Brand new bolts from Porsche don't look all that great either.
I bought four lug bolts to replace the locking lugs when I first bought my car and was surprised at rough the finish was.
The 2017 bolts also look slightly different then the 1999 version.
I agree, but if combined with the titanium bolts, you fill your tires with helium, then it IS noticeable.
I imagine that the titanium bolt weight could vary by manufacturer but I doubt
any
are half the weight. Mine weigh 65 grams vs 93-98 grams for steel Porsche bolts.
In this pic, from left to right are titanium, 1999 bolt, 2017 bolt, 1999 locking bolt.
I took a wire wheel to get rid of the paint. Rubbed rust check on the heads. Then covered them with silicone lug nut covers. $10 for 20 covers for lug bolts.
It has been so long...over 12 years! I don't remember, but I sure do get some compliments on them. They are holding up great and fairly easy to clean. I like them.
Can you share more about your experience? I had always heard Ti bolts were MORE likely to gall in steel. Looking around online, it seems like thoughts are all over the place on this.
Well,, I've mostly only used them on track cars, but had way less trouble with the heat sticking them. (Compared to steel lug nuts.)
Keeping things clean is a big deal, any foreign material on teh threads with titanium will basically grind the threads on the studs, or
rovel out the threads in the holes on the hub if your using bolts.
I always use a TINY amount of anti seize or lube on the first 2 or three threads,, it will carry in just enough to seal.
My 69 with 73 Carerra suspension used steel studs and Aluminum Lug nuts.
Now those were light..
From what I read/hear (for what that's worth, no experience with Ti), I bet that anti-seize is the key. But, of course, using anti-seize itself represents a minor controversy...
Anti seize is a classic example of "less is more"
I put it on with a q-tip. less than a BB is easily enough on most bolts,
Since most Porsche lugnuts are closed ended, (If you have a stud kit)
I Just want enough to seal the threads..
Mike, went back and looked at my notes and I bought them on ebay in 2019. I went to my history and it shows this auction:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...s/251587609756
It says it has been "updated" since I purchased it. I paid $220 for the lug nuts back then, and my notes state "Acerlug 6AL4 bought new on ebay", I really don't know what the Acerlug meant.
Decided to replace my ugly old lug bolts.
Wasn't sure about titanium so I ordered a complete set of new oem Porsche bolts.
They recently arrived looking like someone found them on the side of the road and threw them into a bag.
But at least they�re not rusty, yet.
They are a thing of beauty. Even with repeated use, they look great and a feathery light. I�m mildly bummed as I went with spacers and now mine don�t fit anymore. Look nice on shelf though
I would like to install wheel stud kit. Trying to decide what kit to use. Tarrett kit is very expensive, Rennline is more reasonable in price. Any one have experience with the Renline package for occasional track day use.
I just sent a note on their website, and they already responded, lol. That was fast.
It�s Acer Racing.
They said, �
Hi Mike, since these are titanium no anti seize is needed.�