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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHMy "New To Me" 996
Leading reported evidence
Check no scoring
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Check no scoring' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any drains' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
He checked over the suspension once again and I got a clean bill of health.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I purchased a maintenance kit for cloth tops, cleaned the top and then put some protectant on it.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my back number repaired and repainted after a kiss with a rock wall.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Looks like this has happened before, as the plate holder looks to have been repaired.
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Suggestion · Original poster
There had been approximately 800 miles and three subsequent oil changes since the metal was first noted (the Indy shop said they ALWAYS cut the filters open to check for any junk) and each time the oil was changed there was a few very small particles in the filter.
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Suggestion
First, check the date codes on all the tires, if older than 5 years consider replacing them, 7 years is drop dead date for our cars, according to Porsche.
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34 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Ok, this thread is dedicated to my �new to me� 2001 996 C4 Cabriolet. I had been looking at several cars over the past 6 months, but the good deals were gone (probably before they even hit any ads) and every time I turned around, things were costing more. Believe it or not, my son found it for me on Craigslist in early October 2021. She came with some options, including Triptronic, the full leather interior with the supple seats, heated front seats and the hard top. She is a two owner car, had 56,197 miles on her and came with all the books and maintenance paperwork from the day the car was ordered. The private dealer in NH that I bought it from had sold the car to the second owner back in 2015 and then bought it back this year when the gentlemen, who 87+ years old and losing his sight, could no longer safely drive the car . CarFax indicated that there was some sort of accident damage to the passenger side rear, but we couldn�t find any evidence of it. However, I have been fortunate enough to recently be able to get in contact with the first owner and hope to get some more details from him in the coming days. I picked it up for $28,500. Since things have settled down a bit for the winter, this doesn�t seem to be a great price, but at the time it was pretty good�����..considering. She is not a show car, but is in nice shape for a New England car.
Due to some logistical issues, I couldn't bring the car home right away. When I finally got a break in my schedule and managed to arrange a ride up to NH, I went to pick up the car and bring her back home. While I was waiting for the shop to put the hardtop on, I was reading through all the supplied maintenance documents. I noticed on one of the maintenance receipts that during the last oil change at the local Indy shop, the shop made a note that there was some metal particles noted in the cut open filter. I immediately called that Indy shop and got some details about that and some other maintenance questions that I had. There had been approximately 800 miles and three subsequent oil changes since the metal was first noted (the Indy shop said they ALWAYS cut the filters open to check for any junk) and each time the oil was changed there was a few very small particles in the filter. They said they made sure to tell the owner, but he didn't take any action. After getting this information and before I left the dealer, I asked them if they could put the car up on the lift and remove and open up the oil filter. They have dealt with many Porsche sales prior, so they didn�t have a problem with that. When they did cut it open, we noted a few very tiny particles in the filter.
Now this is my first Porsche (my oldest owns two) and I am a little nervous at this point, having read all the horror stories and doom and gloom about the IMSB. The dealer stepped in and offered to flatbed it over to the Indy shop for further inspection, at no charge to me. He also says let�s see what the Indy shop has to say and we will work something out. I was still very nervous at this point, but I agreed, because I liked the car, it had extensive documentation and overall, it looked to be in good shape. When I drove it, she was nice and tight, no squeaks or rattles or unusual noises.
It took two weeks, but the car was finally flatbedded over to the Indy shop and over the next two weeks (they are busy), they managed to fit me in and dropped the motor. They called me when the motor was done and I drove up to have a look before they did any owrk. They found that the IMSB had lost its inner seal and the cage that holds the bearings in was loose. After removal, spalling of the metal in the bearing raceway could be seen and it is apparent that this bearing was definitely at the end of it�s life. It was changed out with an LN retrofit just in time. The dealer was provided the diagnosis and, to his credit, offered to chip in $2000 towards the repair. That was unexpected and, in my opinion, very generous of him. I had already bought the car, paid in full and he had no further obligations to me. I am also sure he didn�t know about the possible bearing failure and even if he did read all the maintenance documents (which I doubt), I am sure he didn�t crawl over ever word like I finally did. I was feeling a little bit better.
While the engine was out, I addressed everything I could that would require the engine to be dropped and then some. I am not a wealthy owner, so I wanted to minimize any potentially large future costs (like another engine drop) for something that could be addressed now for a few hundred dollars. Better safe than sorry. After asking a few questions on this site, I went ahead and did the plugs, tubes, updated coils, AOS, water pump, thermostat, fuel filter, the 4 rear CV boots, Trans seals, IMSB, RMS, belts, coolant tank, other seals, hoses etc, etc. Yeah, the final bill was $7,600, but I think it was worth it. Time will tell. Drove her home in late November and she is running pretty good.
After I got her home, I cleaned her up and looked her over to see what I actually had. I noticed that the hood has some paint issue around the emblem, and a few paint chips here and there (not many for 56,000 miles) which I hadn't noticed before. Before putting the hardtop on it, I drove her in the rain and noticed that the soft top didn�t shed water like I expected. I purchased a maintenance kit for cloth tops, cleaned the top and then put some protectant on it. She sheds water now !!! I then polished the back window and she came out great. I moved to the frunk and removed the panels covering up the battery, removed the battery and then removed and cleaned out all four drains (all were at least somewhat clogged). Checked everything else and reassembled. I still need to check any drains for the convertible top, but I'll wait for warmer weather to do that.
Then I pulled off those nasty, sticky CDR 220 radio buttons and wiped them down, several times with Acetone. They came out good and no longer feel like flypaper. I am still used to the car, it�s quirks and complexities. Overall, I am liking the car and this will be sharing daily driving duties with my K5 Blazer.
One last thing is that I noticed after driving the car for a few weeks is that, when over 80 (hey, it's a Porsche and I can't help it), I am getting a fairly significant vibration. The whole car shakes. Under 75, not so much. Tire wear (tires are 2014, but lots of tread) is very even, so I don�t think it is alignment related. I have snows which I will be mounting up next week and I will see if that makes a difference.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
I have a 03 C2 -
There's a LOT of reasons that could cause vibration, most likely it's either:
1. Bent wheel - you'd be surprised how easy it is to bend these things
2. Bad tire - belts separated, etc
3. Just out of balance
4. Wheel alignment
My suggestion:
First, check the date codes on all the tires, if older than 5 years consider replacing them, 7 years is drop dead date for our cars, according to Porsche.
If the tires are not old, and you have the capability, take all four wheels off and bring them to a shop that has a hunter road force machine. While their spinning up look for them being bent. If the wheels are all true, then do the Hunter Road Force and you'll get a number for each tire, if it's above 16 after they move the tire on the wheel it's still high then you need to replace the tire. This will find separated/damaged belts. Once you have four good tires that have low numbers, just have them finish the balance and go for a drive.
I'll bet you lunch this will fix your problem!
But if not, you still have the alignment to do...
Congrats on the car. First check to see if the tires are inflated to the correct air pressure. The fuel door placard shows max cold pressure fully loaded (4 passengers and luggage, like any human taller than 3 ft can fit in the back seat). Try 32 - 36 psi in the front tires and 38 - 40 psi in the rear. Drive again and see if the shaking returns. My bet is on old and dry tires as Blacksquid and Silverbullet mention.
You should get the transmission and diff fluid changed. These cars have a ridiculously complicated fill procedure for the ATF, and it's crucial you get the correct fluid, which is available aftermarket instead of paying the Porsche Tax from the dealer. There are some good indies in NH and MA. I'd stay away from the dealer. You are brave driving the car in the winter. Mine is tucked away in the garage until spring!
OP - Welcome! Good of a stand up dealer to help you with cost. Not too common these days. Really nice car. And a hard top for winter…oh yes. Cup holders? Check. The cost for getting your car to near baseline is reasonable. I say every 996 will cost you at least $35,000 to get right (minus a little to plus a lot). I’ll echo the change rubber statements. Proceed from there with regard to suspension and wheel sorting. As far as the Tip goes, do check when it was serviced, if ever.
To answer a few questions. Yes, the bores were checked, no scoring, clean. The source of the metal appears to be from the very light spalling of the IMS bearing race. There was only a few very small particles and really nothing to speak of on the magnetic plug in the oil pan. All fluids and filters were changed during the service at the Indy (Blair Talbot Motors in Dover NH). While the tires date back to 2014, they are Michelin PS2's, in fantastic shape with 80% tread remaining and at the correct pressure. I have purchased Pirelli Sottozeros and will have them swapped in next week. Shop looked everything over and was free to replace anything that looked suspicious (my wallet was scared sh*tless). Nothing concerning the suspension was found, all very tight.
Oh, and before I picked up the car I purchased a set of the Ultimate Cup Holders. They work great !!!!!!!
Glad to hear the engine checked out. I haven�t used Blair Talbot but another member here recommended them.
Keep an eye on the tires and be careful if you drive in cold temps. The combination of age and not being all season tires means they�ll be hard.
I agree with the others on the vibration. Take it to a shop with a road force balancer and have the wheels checked.
What state are you in?
Congrats and welcome! The tires are suspect. Unless the car was stored in a climate controlled garage on blocks (tires unloaded), there could be some fatigue in critical support areas. Some folks always replace 7 yr-old tires, where others stretch to 10 or as soon as 5. Rubber wears out differently depending on storage, humidity, and temperature. Some tires can go bad in less than a year if they were tortured.
The other thing to consider is the rear wing (spoiler) deploys at 75, so there could be something back there that I would inspect.
Elwoodcg, I'm in the northeast corner of CT, close to the Mass border.
Mike, Spoiler deploys as designed.
Tires will be swapped out next week, so I'll report back after that drive home.
Congrats on the car!
There are a few of us in that area: zbomb is really close, I'm not too far away. We both seem to end up in Thompson, CT about 10 times a year....
Missed this one due to holidays - congrats and welcome to the madness!
I'd assume the vibration over 80 is wheels/tires that need some balancing... or replacement. It's a slippery slope I might as well shove you off.
Enjoy it in best of health!
OK, took her to the tire shop this morning and swapped out the nearly new (but date coded 2014) 17" Michelin PS A/S 3's for a set of Pirelli Sottozero snows. The tire wear on the Michelins was dead even across each tire and at 8/32's front and 7/32nds rear, with no anomalies or damage whatsoever, so alignment didn't appear to be an issue. The mechanic called me over and showed me why I had a vibration. The wheel weights on the wheels (all 4) were flopping around on the wheel, barely attached. He said I probably lost a few over time and that it is a good thing I got it in now. He checked over the suspension once again and I got a clean bill of health.
Drive home was much better, like a totally different car. And at higher speeds, zero vibration. Can't wait to put the 18" summer tires on her.
I'll craigslist the Michelins for cheap. They are in excellent condition, lots of tread, but I am switching to 18" for the summer, so I no longer have a need for 17" summer tires. Wife doesn't want me to collect tires, in addition to all the other parts I have lying around. Women !!
First of all, nice Cabriolet... and welcome to the Porsche club!
Glad to see you carried out due diligence and had most of known M96 issues addressed. The one thing I didn't see in your list was the VarioCam wear pads. Did the shop change those out? It's a common problem with the Mk1 3.4L engines. Did they check for camshaft deviations? If they were in spec, they probably didn't change them, but if it had been me, I would have asked for the wear pads to be replaced anyway since the engine was out. Saves a lot of labor down the road. Similar in the case of changing RMS when you're addressing the IMS bearing.
Thank you. That is the one thing I missed. I will check with the shop to see if they did check, but I didn't ask about it (didn't know it was an issue). If it wasn't done, I'll have them check it next time I am in for service..
So, ever since I got the car back from the shop, I kept smelling coolant after every drive. After getting her home the first time, I noticed that coolant was dripping on the header from the new coolant tank drain line. Ok, the tank is very full when cool, so expansion when hot is causing some of the excess coolant to seek a new home (my garage floor). After about a week of having coolant leaking on the floor (not a huge amount, just a pain cleaning it up), I decided to suction about 8oz of coolant out of the tank. Another week or so goes by and I am still smelling coolant and I am still seeing coolant on my garage floor. I check the tank level and noticed that the cap was loose. I didn't think much of that. Plenty of coolant in the tank, so I just tighten the cap and called it a day. A few days later, same thing, same leaking coolant and the loose cap issue. When I tried to tighten it (by hand only) if I gave it a little extra twist, the cap clicked, like a gas cap does. I got it tight one more time and a day later it was loose again. I then contacted the shop, told them what I found. They overnighted me a new cap, which seems to fit a lot better. I cannot over-tighten it and it seems to have cured the leaking coolant issue.
I have been using the black "AUF/ZU" cap on my 6TT for a few years with no trouble at all. I have forgotten who makes it, I think it's made by Behr who is the OEM supplier to Porsche.
I don't think it is a Porsche cap or Tank, not really sure. Cap is a "Blau", part number looks like PA6T/XT GF35 (I think). Number is on the inside of the cap and hard to read (with my old eyes). I'll know after a few outings if it is a good fit.
Congrats and welcome to the C4 club! You have the nice OEM C4 17" wheels! Kind of rare. Too bad they came with the colored crests instead of the Carrera 4 caps Most people swapped them out for twists or 18" wheels. My C4 came with 18's, but I have been looking for those 17's to put snow on. I have old aftermarket 17's for my snows! Did you get the solution forever ims? If you didnt you will need to change the bearing every
4 years or
50,000 miles
. Single Row Pro and Classic Dual Row IMS Retrofit - 6 years or 75,000
De Jeeper, yeah, it look like that is the case. I will be keeping a close eye on it, but, barring the cap issue (which I hope is resolved) it should be OK for several years. Indy is very responsive and said if I still have problems they will put another in.
Dranon, I got the refit IMSB. If I put 50,000 more on her, it will take a decade or more.
There is a guy out on Long Island that has a set of those wheels for sale over on PCA for $350. Since they have been up for a while, maybe he wants to move them at a better price. And I am using the 17's for snows too. I have a set of 5 spoke lightweight classics (I think that is what they are called) for summer. I like the 17's for the added "cushion" they provide. My old *ss appreciates the softness they afford.
Yeah, I think the whole set up is aftermarket. As long as it works as designed, I am OK with it. If it fails prematurely or doesn't function as it should, STAND BY !
OK, so I got hit in a parking lot about two months back. Looks like someone tried to park in the space in front of my car and slipped on ice and "bumped" my front bumper. The pics show the damage after I removed the plate and holder. Looks like this has happened before, as the plate holder looks to have been repaired. Anyway, I didn't notice it for a few weeks and, after I lot of cursing and foot stomping, I finally took the car for a repair estimate. We have a friend with a burgundy/candy red Mercedes. She is really picky and OCD. She got dented in a parking lot and too it to a body shop she knows. They fixed the car, twice, and nailed it the second time. You really can't tell where the repair was and the paint work is outstanding. I took my car to them for a quote. With me removing the bumper and taking to them, the estimate was $800 to repair and repaint the front bumper. They are using the correct factory paint and clear and they have specialty tools for the type of plastic the bumper is made out of. All holes will be filled, as I'll take my chances with the no front plate thing (for now). Please excuse the bug splat. I took these after I got back from the hour trip, one way, to the body shop.
I am hoping that the paint match will be very good, but being Polar Silver, I am a bit nervous. Like Rich told me, it isn't his first rodeo with these cars and he stands by his work until I am satisfied. So I am moving forward with this on the 16th (should take a week), but I am also looking to see if that is a decent/fair price for the work being done? Any thoughts?
I had my back number repaired and repainted after a kiss with a rock wall. Shop (in CT) did an excellent job and matched the seal gray perfectly. $800 with me taking it off and delivering it to them so there is hope for you. The talent exists if you know where to find it.
