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YOUR RESEARCHRear cross member stuck - help needed
Reported or suspected cause
those top bolts
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Reported cause · Original poster
The issue was with those top bolts that were stuck.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Make sure that you have cleaned away as much sand and dirt as possible, because it's a tight fit and having a bunch of dirt makes it that much harder to get out.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
1) first I used CRC Frost Flash Pro and then used a wrench to have that to rotate at all.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
1) first I used CRC Frost Flash Pro and then used a wrench to have that to rotate at all.
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Make sure that you have cleaned away as much sand and dirt as possible, because it's a tight fit and having a bunch of dirt makes it that much harder to get out.
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I'm trying to remove that rear cross member but it's sits tightly in place. Removed both bottom bolts easily and only nuts from the top. I tried to soak those with WD40 - no help. I put a rope around that cross member and carefully hit downwards so that it would try to pull that cross member down - no help.
It sits so tightly that what ever I do I can still put those bottoms bolts easily through the holes so in practice it's like it has those bolts still in place.
I can't figure out what's holding that in place. I guess those top bolts needs to stay in place but are those supposed to move at all. The other one is really tight - doesn't move at all unless I would put a lot more force which i didn't do and the other one could rotate a bit but it would strip the bolt so I stopped immediately.
Any tips what to try next?
Repair manual would help, and so will a parts diagram. Do you have the Porsche PET diagram for your car? Another good place for a parts diagram is here
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p..._911_parts.php
Do you mean just the rear cross member (part #6) that goes under the engine between the two suspension subframes (parts #1)?
https://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-...section=501-01
(4 obvious bolts, two on each side) All 4 bolts can come all the way out. Then just tap/wiggle the cross-member out.
Or do you mean that you've taken the entire suspension out, and you are trying to drop the full subframe (side section)? Part 1 (x2) and 6 on the above diagram?
Each subframe is held on in three places. Bolt #9, and Nuts #16 on the above. The threaded post (#14,15) may also back out, but that's fine. They thread back in with their own torque spec.
Picture?
EDIT: If only part 6, and you completely remove all 4 bolts, and it's still completely stuck, then it's somehow bound up between the two subframe side sections. I'm speculating a bit, but if the car is not on it's wheels, then you could potentially loosen bolts/nuts holding the side sections in (see above, should not remove them!), which might relieve the stress on the crossmember. But that should only be a last resort. After that, you would probably have to get a new alignment. I only removed the side sections after removing all of the rest of the knuckle/suspension arms. You don't want to do that.
Repair manual would perhaps help if I could find that section where it describes that cross member removal process. Forgot to check Bentleys. I don't think there such information on the workshop manuals and not sure if I need parts diagram because that rear cross member is quite self explanatory. Two bolts at the bottom and two on top which should/could stay in place because there is this cut out on the cross member or.....
Is this a proper method - I was under impression that those should stay in place because there's that cut out so it shouldn't matter if the bolt is removed as long as the nut is removed. On the other hand maybe this could be reason because those two top bolts are really stuck even though the nut was easy to remove. How do you remove those - just hit them so that they go through?
Yes. They'll back out.
Should have reposted instead of editing above:
You can completely remove all 4 bolts. It really should come out, straight down.
If it's still completely stuck, then maybe it's somehow bound up between the two subframe side sections. I'm speculating a bit, but if the car is not on it's wheels, then you could potentially loosen bolts/nuts holding the side sections in (see above, should not remove them, the whole suspension would fall down!), which might relieve the stress on the crossmember. But that should only be a last resort. After that, you would probably have to get a new alignment. I only removed the side sections after removing all of the rest of the knuckle/suspension arms. You don't want to do that.
Get a wrench on the bolt head and spin the bolt. The dissimilar matals have oxidized together and u need to break the bond and remove the bolt. They r a thick bolt and i highly doubt u will snap the head. If the x-member is still stuck after that, support the wheel carrier and loosen the 4 bolts holding the subframe on one side. This will create enough play to remove it.
The top bolts don't need to be removed and actually cannot be removed on Tiptronic cars. The bottom bolts have to come all the way out.
Make sure that you have cleaned away as much sand and dirt as possible, because it's a tight fit and having a bunch of dirt makes it that much harder to get out.
You should be able to pry the crossmember slightly sideways on each side to help it get unstuck, in addition to turning the bolt heads as was suggested.
Good news! The issue was with those top bolts that were stuck. Once I got those loose and actually removed both and then the cross member was easy to remove.
And it did
I've Tiptronic and I was able to remove those.
Thanks - excellent tip - that open area on top is a like a basket for dirt so no wonder why the bolt becomes so difficult to move.
Second excellent tip - this was probably the reason why the driver's side bolt needed a lot of work.
What I did with the drivers side top bolt was that:
1) first I used CRC Frost Flash Pro and then used a wrench to have that to rotate at all. When I got that to rotate even so slightly I started to add wd40 and then taking small steps forward and at the same time adding more wd40. Once it was loose but still extremely stiff I ...
2) removed drive axle CV joint bolts (needed to do that anyway as that is part of the engine dropping process) and lift that up a bit and put a piece of 2x4 under that for support. After that I added and long extension from under the car and a breaker bar and then finally with Milwaukee ratchet to open it completely. There's straight line for extension after lifting that CV joint.
Passenger side was a bit easier as it only required some muscle and on the other hand there's no space for a long extension anyways.
Thanks everyone for great tips!
Some pictures from the process.
I'm glad you were able to get the crossmember out!
I can surely say they are not removable on a 996 Turbo Tiptronic. In fact they are barely reachable.
The more you work on these cars, the more you learn about the order they�re put together in at the factory. Many seemingly simple jobs clearly weren�t on the minds of the engineers who designed the build process and where many nuts, bolts and various types of connections wind up when the car is complete. I realize hindsight is 20/20 but wow! Some of the contortions and things we have to remove to do seemingly simple jobs is amazing�
I keep seeing posts where people say they use WD-40 to loosen up bolts and hardware does it really work? Because I always thought you needed something specific like pbblaster and that WD-40 was just to get rid of moisture, it's a water dispersant.
