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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHShock failure, now what?
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect sway bar link
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Remember, I've only disconnected the sway bar link.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect sway bar link' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect sway bar link' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then The compressors can be removed and the shock with the spring can be installed back in the car.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
They also want to verify that the other shock is installed incorrectly, not that they don't believe me.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Mine was installed with the groove up, away from the snap ring.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I still have originals in the front, replaced the rears with the Konis a couple of years ago because both stock shocks were leaking.
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First, I apologize for the size of this photo.
One of my rear shocks failed, the lower ring that the bottom of the spring rests on came loose from the shock body. Now the spring is just floating there.
I bought 2 new shocks and am ready to install. Question is, what do I need to do to remove the old shock? When I release the upper nut on the shock, will that allow the suspension to drop more so I can easily remove the shock? Or do I need to disconnect something? I do have a spring compressor for the re-install.
Thank you for any advice!
There are only four fasteners that hold the shock/spring onto the chassis, 3 nuts at the top and one bolt at the bottom. The sway bar links will have to be removed as well. You'll be able to mount your spring onto the new shock with a spring compressor. You might want to look at the bellows that cover the shock piston rod and as well as the stopper to see if they are still good.
Just remove the lower bolt off, pry the shock off (it'll pop off) then, undo the top 3 nuts and lower the shock out.
You should be able reuse the old top and spring pad. They are held on to the shock assembly under the big nut atop the shock piston.
I found reinstalling the rear shocks was a bit fiddly, way more than the fronts.
Plenty of videos on YouTube.
Good luck
I know you said you already bought new shocks but just for future reference, it looks like it was just the circlip that came out of the groove on the shock body on yours.
OK, here's a new take. I don't think it was a shock failure, but an installation error.
A few of you may remember a couple of years ago when I had a shop install these shocks and was grossly overcharged for labor. After complaining, they did refund some of the labor charge.
Upon getting this shock removed, I discovered what I think was an installation error.
The Koni shock has what appears to be a rectangular-cross-section snap ring into a groove in the shock tube. The main ring, which the lower end of the spring sits on, has a notch on one side, is flat on the other. I believe this notch is to sit over the snap ring and keeps it from being able to expand and come out of the groove. Mine was installed with the groove up, away from the snap ring. It is the same way on the other side of the car, which has not failed (yet). I think this arrangement allowed the snap ring to expand out under high spring load, and came out of its groove and was pushed down by the spring.
What do you all think?
Sorry, meant to include this photo.
Thanks all, I think I'll take the parts to the installer and see if they will do anything. Even a free installation of the other side, since these are a real pain to change without a lift. I haven't tried the re-install yet, but taking apart was a bit of a pain. The threads on the sway bar link got a bit buggered up when I tried to put it in the new shock, now I need a 10mm tap & die to try to fix that. And not sure how the spring compressors will complicate the install.
SoCal911t, I think my snap ring was damaged, is kind of bent, and I don't think I'd trust re-installing it. I don't know that I could get a replacement.
How sketchy does this look?
I was able to get replacement snap rings from Bilstein. They're local to me so I just walked in and they gave them to me for free. He said they're normally a dollar or two each.
The spring compressors are used to install the spring on the shock damper and bolt it together. Then The compressors can be removed and the shock with the spring can be installed back in the car. Springs don't need to be compressed while the shock is being installed in the car.
So close! I just can't get the holes to line up. I have a hockey puck on my jack head, and it is only contacting the bottom of the shock. When I lift, the whole suspension moves up with it. About a half hole off. Any advice?
I used 2 ratchet straps to compress the spring a bit, and shorten the shock length. Then used a steel drift to line up the holes.
Yeah, the rears are a bit fiddly.
You're almost there!
.edited as I misread....
Remember to tighten to final spec after the wheel is back on the ground or iow the weight is on the strut otherwise the bushing in the shock absorber will prematurely wear.
Question: are you now running koni at the front and bilstein at the rear?
I just read something that concerns me. It says before removing the shock, to mark the location of the 3 15mm bolts at the top. I did not do this. I have had a terrible time getting the shock back in and close (still don't have the bottom bolt hole lined up). Had to jack, pry, etc. just to get it close. Could this be because I have the wrong clocking on the 3 upper bolts? If so, how can I tell the correct orientation to put it in?
Thats the front shock. The rear shock has no bearing on alighnment and can be installed and any position. Use a drift pin from the back side of the hole and leverage the shock bushing into place, then start the bolt and tap it through. Im surprised u r have so much trouble with it? Maybe phone a friend for some help it cant hold it in place to get the bolt started?
Hey guys, thanks for all of the ideas and suggestions. I enlisted a second set of hands from a buddy, and finally got the shock installed. What a pain.
I went to the shop that incorrectly installed them and told them the story. They agreed to replace the other rear shock with my new one at no charge. I know, that's the very least they could do. They can't get to it for about 3 weeks, but I can wait. I suggested that they could reimburse me for the new set of shocks that I had to buy, but they said it is doubtful that they could do anything more. They also want to verify that the other shock is installed incorrectly, not that they don't believe me. So I took some good photos of it ahead of time in case they come up with a different story.
Hopefully this will all be resolved in 3 weeks!
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