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YOUR RESEARCHHomelink Mod DIY - Long, but with Pics
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The Homelink device had short wires when I got it, but I replaced these with some red and black wire and added a couple of male crimped-on connectors.
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(I used the crimp-on connectors in the event that I needed to switch polarity, or replace the unit, or even use the power for something else later).
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I simply took the cubby out, drew a template on it, and used my dremmel to cut out the right sized hole.
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I used my garage opener and a Targa sun shade switch.
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I've been meaning to do this mod for quite some time, and finally got around to it last weekend.
On a scale of 1-10, this is a 4.5 and takes around an hour and a half. The hard part is getting the unit mounted where you want it. I chose to put it in a cubby hole.
Here are the things you need:
*Homelink -> ebay ($5-$40 depending on the kind you get).
Make sure you get one with rolling codes if your garage door opener needs it.
You can get the programming instructions from
www.homelink.com
.
Stuff From Radio Shack
*Automotive Inline Fuse Holder - $3.00
*1A Fuses - $2.00
*Tap-ins - $3.00
*Crimp Connectors - $2.00
*16-20 gauge wire
WIRING
Pull of the panel shown below and you'll find a phone connector with provided power leads.
There is a great
write-up on the wiring behind the panel over at renntech
.
Pony up and become a member - it's well worth it!
You need the
brown wire for ground
and the
green
/
black
wire for switched power.
Use inline taps to splice in some red and black wire (red for power into the green/black, and black for ground into the brown wire). Don't forget to put in your fuse.
The Homelink device had short wires when I got it, but I replaced these with some red and black wire and added a couple of male crimped-on connectors.
I put female ends on the red and black wires I spliced into the phone connector. Then I simply plugged the male-female connectors together. (I used the crimp-on connectors in the event that I needed to switch polarity, or replace the unit, or even use the power for something else later).
As I was dry fitting the Homelink unit I realized I didn't like it almost anywhere in the car. I had to find somewhere out of the way, but still within reach. I elected to put it in a cubby. If you do this, just remember to mount it far enough back in the cubby so that you get over the front console frame.
Now the only point I forgot to take pictures of is mounting the Homelink to the cubby. It was pretty simply, but take your time, as you really only get 1 shot.
I simply took the cubby out, drew a template on it, and used my dremmel to cut out the right sized hole. I used the same template to cut a hole in the plastic mat as well. I inserted the Homelink into the hole and put a couple dabs of super glue between the two. I also taped the device to the cubby with some duct tape.
After install, it looks like this:
How it works
The location doesn't affect range at all. Even mounted in the cubby, the device will open my garage from over 5 houses away - farther than battery operated device I had clipped to the visor. It also opens the gates to my subdivision from a few hundred feet away.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. And the buttons are pretty well out of the way - but still within reach!
-td
TD - nice write up, nice mod.
I did the poor man's garage opener mod a while back. I used my garage opener and a Targa sun shade switch. I wired the garage door opener to the switch, using male/female connectors for easy removal and/or battery changing.
Then and clipped the garage door opener to the carped panel shown in your first and second pics of the car interior. The switch was installed in the horse shoe on the dash.
Not as elegant as your mod. The only down side of my mod is that since the garage door opener is below the dash, the range was reduced by about half.
Very nicely done. Did you consider mountng the Homelink on the 'batwing' panel, or is there not enough depth below the batwing for the back of the Homelink?
The unit has dimensions about the size of a standard deck of cards, so it was too big to fit on the bat wing. Also, the supporting structure of the console is in the way of mounting the Homelink device virtually anywhere else in the console. I could have soldered on new switches and ran them anywhere, but that would have been added another layer of difficulty to the project.
I think there might be a way to buy a visor and mount it there, but that seemed a bit difficult as well. So I gave up on all the elegant solution(s) and went brute force
After a couple days of this, I'm pretty happy with it! I should have done this months ago...
-td
Nice write-up. Here's mine in the batwing. Much more surgery required, though. My install is probably only for those who are very comfortable working with electronics.
I bought a kit from ebay that provided me the button for the horseshoe console and I told them what kind of garage door opener I used.
Nicely integrated into my console.
This was my other option, but I would have to do it twice, as I need 2 buttons (gate and garage). Those eBay kits are pretty good - I used on for my spoiler (before I got the fixed wing).
-td
Not sure about a kit, but here's the button:
http://www.e-partssales.com/miva/mer...Code=POTE996CM
Wiring is easy. Instructions here or on renntech.org.
That's a nice write up and a good solution. Thanks.
As an alternative, I've been considering adding an auto dimming rear view mirror with homelink. A friend of mine just had one installed and seems quite pleased with it. Here's one that's about $200:
