Can/should you remove the brake fluid reservoir screen for brake bleeding?

Bled my brakes this week and I couldn't get the little filter out of the reservoir for turkey basting. I rotated it, pulled on it in all positions and finally gave up before I broke it. I turkey basted down to the screen and that was about 50% of the reservoir. On a side note I used the same color blue fluid and after two years the old fluid was still the same color as the new. (was hoping it would be dirty or something like the last time I did it). I used the power bleeder and the whole can and there was no air so I feel good about it. Back to the question--will the screen come out and if so how? Thanks.

I never tried; you run the lowest risk of contamination just flushing through more fluid. The DOT is going to come after you for that illegal blue fluid!

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In some cases the techs remove the screen to siphon out old fluid to reduce the amount of fluid needed to flush/bleed the system. But if you managed to remove around half the fluid with the screen in place I think that is sufficient and removing the screen in order to remove a bit more fluid is not worth the risk to the screen. FYI, if your car is equipped with a manual transmission be sure you flush/bleed the clutch hydraulic system too after you do the brake system.

Yes you can, it will pull out with bit of a pull with some small (clean) needle nose pliers, then you can pump the fluid in the reservoir out and replace with fresh fluid, makes flushing a bit easier. I use a pump from an old liquid soap bottle, cleaned of course. Just use caution as you don't want to spill any fluid

If you know someone in the medical profession, see if you can get a soft rubber straight catheter, size 12fr and an irrigation kit. This made draining the reservoir really easy.

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Hey Macster how do I do that? I have searched You tube for the procedure on the 996 but find nothing. I take it I am looking for a bleed nipple for the clutch under the car. Does the brake reservoir supply brake hydraulic fluid to the clutch? In other words, using the motive pressure builder on the same place as I do on bleeding the brakes, I locate the clutch bleed nipple and do the same as I would do on the brake caliper. Hope you can help with my questions. Thanks. ANY ONE...

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in a word, YES The clutch used the same hydraulic system as the brakes

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JayG do you know exactly where the clutch bleed nipple is located? I take it on the side of the clutch somewhere? Do I bleed it like I would the brake caliper.? Using the motive bleeder?

Good Pelican tech article on clutch slave cylinder and bleeding: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Hydraulics.htm

[QUOTE=Hurdigurdiman;12587129]JayG do you know exactly where the clutch bleed nipple is located? I take it on the side of the clutch somewhere? Do I bleed it like I would the brake caliper.? Using the motive bleeder?[/QUOTE The slave is on the side of the transmission. Bleed it just like brakes. As DBJoe mentioned, good DIY on Pelican

JOE and JAY that's just the link I need. Thanks guys.

It"s a little more complicated than that per Porsche instrucutions here http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/ Also, make sure you keep the fluid level at max at all times to avoid accidentally emptying the separate partition just for the clutch within the reservoir during bleeding.

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And make sure the clutch is depressed when bleeding. I have used a 2x4 logged against the seat. (not trying stat anything with the 2x comment ) If you don't depress the clutch when bleeding the 1st time you put the clutch in it will stay at the floor.....scared the crap out of me the 1st time I did it.

Yes, after bleeding the clutch pedal stays down and you need to lift it up manually. I always enlist a helper to avoid any 2x4 getting close to the interior

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Sorry I was not prompt in getting back to this thread, but it looks like you received excellent guidance and I can add nothing. Well, I can add that I did the clutch bleed to my Boxster using a power bleeder but the results were not quite up to snuff. I re-did the bleed using a co-worker to work the clutch pedal and the results were up to snuff.

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Acually Macster. With ref to your first attempt via the motive bleeder not being up to snuff. I did see a guy who first used the turkey baster to remove most of the reservoir of a BMW. Then instead of him using the motive, he had a new small pump oil can, full with fluid, which he pumped upwards via a tube attached to the nipple and the oil can. He said this method pushes any air which might be in the clutch system upwards towards and into the reservoir. From what you are saying, I may try that method as air tends to rise. I could have someone watch the reservoir and when it is almost full, I will then nip up the bleed nipple. After the air has dissipated from the reservoir, I will cap the reservoir off. Thanks for getting back to me on this and thanks to all posters for your response.

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I didn't mention this in my previous post but I suspect in my case with the power bleeder the problem was my technique. I made a mistake but I don't recall what it might have been other than I know I didn't let the fluid level get low. The techs use a power bleeder all the time and the results are just fine. They remove some old fluid from the reservoir to reduce the amount of new fluid required to effect a complete flush/bleed but then after getting the power blessed connected just go around to each wheel in turn and bleed both nipples. They catch the fluid in a recovery bottle for proper disposal. The line is clear so the tech can see the color and condition of the fluid as it comes out the bleed nipple. Sometimes the stuff's pretty nasty looking but soon runs clear.