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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFront axle flange seal leak NEED ADVICE PLEASE
Leading reported evidence
Replace cv boots as well
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Since then, I've replaced the CV boots as well because one on each side split.
Leading evidence: 'Replace cv boots as well' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend i do the following' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my car up on stands doing the IMS bearing, so I removed the entire front diff, replaced both seals and drained/refilled the fluid.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Unfortunately, I do not have a garage or tools or the necessary workspace to be able to do this sort of repair, let alone the experience.
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Suggestion
Add in another $50-60 for the seals they're going to replace, another $20 for the axle nuts that are one time use, and then $100 or so for front differential fluid (assuming they use genuine Porsche).
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Suggestion
I assume they're quoting replacing the axle because Porsche don't sell the joints/boots separately and only sell the entire axle with new joints/boots.
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Suggestion
Add in another $50-60 for the seals they're going to replace, another $20 for the axle nuts that are one time use, and then $100 or so for front differential fluid (assuming they use genuine Porsche).
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Hi everyone,
My car was dropped off for an inspection and the shop told me that my front axle flange seals were leaking. They recommended I do the following:
-Fix both front axle seals
-Replace CV Boots
-Service the diff (which I think just entails fluid flush)
-Repack both front axles (I still am not sure exactly what this means)
They said they have to remove the diff and quoted $2100 to do the entire job (about $450 parts, the balance in labor). I know this needs to be addressed soon to prevent the diff from failing, but I am not sure what to do. Any advice on how to go about addressing this and what it should cost? Thank you!
It always help if you post the year and model of your car. That being said, if the front axle seals need replacing, the grease has leaked out and the CV joints are running dry. That is not a good thing. It sounds like a reasonable project list.
Sorry about that, car is a 2003 C4S. Based on his description, only one side is leaking and the other isnt, but he says usually isnt far behind. The rest of the work is more of a "while you're in there" type of thing. The axles themselves are okay and CV boots are not torn.
Both of my front, and one rear were leaking when I bought my car as well. The seal itself is like a $25 part. I had my car up on stands doing the IMS bearing, so I removed the entire front diff, replaced both seals and drained/refilled the fluid. Since then, I've replaced the CV boots as well because one on each side split.
If your boots aren't split, I wouldn't mess with them. I assume they're quoting replacing the axle because Porsche don't sell the joints/boots separately and only sell the entire axle with new joints/boots.
So, I guess my best advice is get a quote for just replacing the seal. I don't know for sure how easy it is to do it with the differential in the car - I'd imagine as long as you can get the axle far enough out of the way it won't be too bad. As long as the diff does't need to come out of the car, there isn't much advantage of doing both sides 'while you're in there'. If you're relatively mechanically inclined, its not a terribly difficult job - but it isn't easy either.
Sorry I need to correct myself. He said one side was leaking while the other side was seeping. Unfortunately, I do not have a garage or tools or the necessary workspace to be able to do this sort of repair, let alone the experience. Looks like I�m biting the bullet :/
The CV boots are probably original - if they haven't leaked yet, they probably don't have long to go. The price doesn't seem exorbitant as there's a lot of work to do the job - parts aren't much $... almost all labor. Get a price from another highly acclaimed local shop first - if the price is competitive, let 'em do it... Good luck
For that list, it's not a bad price. The front axle assemblies are $630 each from Pelican. Add in another $50-60 for the seals they're going to replace, another $20 for the axle nuts that are one time use, and then $100 or so for front differential fluid (assuming they use genuine Porsche). That's over $1400 in parts, and you get to have it all done with peace of mind, plus don't have to bang your knuckles up.
BUT if you're on a tight budget right now, you could get by with just having the output shaft seals replaced and skip the axles and CV boots (new ones come on the axle assemblies). There is some efficiency in having it all done at once, but it's not a deal breaker if you can get another year or two out of those CV boots, and don't want to bite that bullet just yet.
Hi - the right side rear axle seal on my 2002 996 C2 is leaking. Engine and transmission are out and on my bench.
I figure since you've done this you may have the answer I need.
Am I right in thinking I can just remove the bolt that holds the stub shaft, pop that shaft out, replace the seal and then bolt it together again ? Parts book says there's a circlip on that shaft - I assume that's all that is holding that shaft in (in addition to the bolt).
Thanks
Yeah, if I'm understanding the question correctly - the circlip is all that's holding it in. The output shaft that the CV/axle bolt to just pops out. If I remember correctly I put a long screw driver or breaker bar between the differential housing and the round cup and then levered against it. I can't remember for sure because its been a few years but I probably tried to put a block of wood between the tool and the housing/casting to avoid cracking it in the process. Once you replace the seal, it just pops back in. Probably used a rubber mallet. Also, if you're doing both I would set them aside or mark them so you don't get them mixed up. It probably doesn't matter but I always try to put things back in the proper spots in case they had different wear.
cheers
charlie
