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YOUR RESEARCHstupid rear swaybar link question
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Adjust sway bar
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Leading evidence: 'Adjust sway bar' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust sway bar' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Have you personally ever replaced stock rear sway bar links on a C4 996?
Tighten links while the car's suspension is fully loaded
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Suggestion
You should be able to tighten the links while the car's suspension is fully loaded under it own weight.
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Yes, I did search... 2001 C4
Doing a bunch of things on the car, one of them is the rear swaybar links. No problem getting them off, but the new ones (Meyle) came with a nut, and it seems like the nut is welded into the rear strut assembly.
I would just use what's there, but the new link doesn't rotate like the old (thankfully) so I don't see any way of threading it in there, short of removing the strut assembly.
Is it possible the old nut is just wedged into the strut housing? It's got a little box it sits in. I tried budging it, gently, but no dice.
I'll put up a pic if this isn't clear.
Danix, just did that on mine (99/C2 but the same basic thing
) -- The stock shocks had a welded nut, follow hbdunn's advice, it will screw in. Keep the extra nuts in case you encounter an upgrade opportunity.
Yeah, the photo is similar to what's on the stock unit. So the new threaded portion should rotate in place like the old one, without damaging the link?
It's just so much stiffer than the old one, I wasn't sure.
Yes - just crank it in. As long as you are gentle with the boot it won't be a problem. Inside it is just a metal ball sitting in a plastic socket, rotation won't hurt it.
You might already know this, but t is worth mentioning for the benefit of those that does not know.
Always adjust the sway bar under load. You should be able to tighten the links while the car's suspension is fully loaded under it own weight. The best is to backup the car's rear onto a ramp and then you'l have both the clearance as well as the car under load to perform this task.
Hmm, no I didn't. That probably explains why the links look wonky. I just figured they would rotate into place once the weight went back. I'll loosen and readjust, thanks!
U dont need to tighten or adjust under load. The ends are ball joint style tie rod ends so the rotate freely when secured. U only need to load volcanised rubber bushings.
There is a huge difference between pre-load and loaded when the sway bar settle on the suspension. No ball-joint can account for such a big deviation. Besides adjusting the sway bar while the suspension is unloaded will result in uneven torque between the left and right suspension after you put the car back on the ground.
He is putting on factory style non adjustable sway bar links. It doesnt matter what position the sway bar is in at anytime during the install. There is no loading or loaded adjustments. If the suspension is hanging or compressed nothing changed. If he has one wheel in the air he would not be able to connect the link.
Have you personally ever replaced stock rear sway bar links on a C4 996? If you had you would know that this info is not relevant to the OPs situation.
@hbdunn
thanks. Do you like the bilsteins? Did you go with B6 or B8? I think it's probably time but I am unsure if I want to go coilovers like the Feal 441 or the tried and true keep it stock, just go B6 with stock springs.
Mine is a cabrio, so I'm unlikely to be tracking it any time, unless they allow that with a hardtop installed.
Have not driven it yet. Went with H & R and B8s. I wanted to keep it simple so didn't go coilovers. Making it a track focused car, rollbar seats harness. Have about 8 weeks to get it all together.
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