17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBad battery - inducing misses...?
Leading reported evidence
Check 'water' level in the battery
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Check 'water' level in the battery' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 'water' level in the battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Thank you all for the input, new battery installed, code went away immediately without resetting, car is running notably smoother.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Despite the yo-yo who decided to run the light at the beginning of my run (and was easily dispatched...), the new battery has completely done away with any semblance of a miss, and now the built 3.8 sings and reminds me why I miss NA cars so much.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Thank you all for the input, new battery installed, code went away immediately without resetting, car is running notably smoother.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Despite the yo-yo who decided to run the light at the beginning of my run (and was easily dispatched...), the new battery has completely done away with any semblance of a miss, and now the built 3.8 sings and reminds me why I miss NA cars so much.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Prior to that, other than my diesels, most of the performance cars I have built use small cell batteries, so clearly they were relying on alternator output more so, and not a sodding great lead lump.
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi All,
I am a transplant from the 996/991 turbo forum and currently have a buddies soon to be GT3 clone in hand.
I tried searching bad battery/misses, but I am not really getting much on it, nor am I seeing the issue.
The car was picked up from the shop where it had been sitting for awhile after getting some work done to it. I drove it 30miles back to my shop in Vancouver and when I put it away, I noticed a slight miss at idle. It was put on the charger and immediately drew 20 amps, after two hours on the charger, it was still drawing 9 amps. It took about 4+ plus hours to be fully charged. This, unto itself, is not a good sign to me as it was given a good drive. It was then put on the reconditioning where it sat for about a day before I had to move it.
When started this morning, it sounded much better this morning on a full charge. I plan on putting it back on recon this afternoon, but am curious if a bad battery would have an impact on the ignition - when loaded up, it pulls very well, but off idle it seems a little flat. Once the recon cycle has ended I'll load test it, but I am wondering if that is even worth it - battery is about 5+ years old and the car has sat for extended period of time without a trickle charger on it.
Thank you all in advance for any guidance you may be able to offer.
Cheers,
My advice - just be done with this trouble. Get a new AGM battery. Go to AutoZone or your local parts store. Any battery over 5 years old is suspect, and with it just sitting for an extended time, the old battery is toast.
As for the "miss", after you install a new battery, see if it goes away. Since the car has sat for awhile, could be it needs to be run and get up to operating temperature for 30 minutes or more. Also could be the gas is old. Might add some Techron in the gas.
Yes. The battery and alternator work in tandem to keep the voltage up. Should be close to 14V on the dash gauge. If the ignition coils are not getting a full charge, then it could misfire. Is your CEL on? Can you or someone else see what codes are there?
Misfires usually show up as a P03XX code. Common to see P0300 (general misfire code) and then for cylinder one P0301. I think you get the point. Might consider changing the plugs and coils.
Gentlemen,
Thank you all for the input, new battery installed, code went away immediately without resetting, car is running notably smoother.
Extended test drive this afternoon...
Cheers,
The ECU/DME is reset to default values (mapping) when the battery is disconnected. It also erases engine fault codes. A normal 30 minute drive at operating temperature allows the ECU/DME to re-established the engine operating parameters and take all the measurements - MAF, O2 sensors, etc. Have a fun drive.
A voltmeter will show you the condition of the battery. With the engine stopped, the voltage should show between 12.4 to 12.8. Then start your engine the voltage should show between 13.7 to 14.7 and that tells you that your alternator is working fine. If the voltage is showing between 12.4 to 12.8 with the engine stopped and yet shows you less than 12.1 the next day before you start the car, then your battery is not holding a charge and should be replaced.
So, got up real early so that I would have a chance to run in the non rain window at 0430, and I must say, well worth it.
Despite the yo-yo who decided to run the light at the beginning of my run (and was easily dispatched...), the new battery has completely done away with any semblance of a miss, and now the built 3.8 sings and reminds me why I miss NA cars so much.
It is extremely tractable - shockingly so - add to that, the linear power delivery is a joy to row throw the gears. And that sound, especially up top, it is intoxicating. I am very surprised that a bad battery had such a noticeable impact on performance. My turbo spends half a year on a trickle/conditioner and I have not as of yet had to replace it, but I did swap out the VR when I got it. Prior to that, other than my diesels, most of the performance cars I have built use small cell batteries, so clearly they were relying on alternator output more so, and not a sodding great lead lump.
Would I buy one? Absolutely. The simplicity of a non pressurized car is a reminder of why we like to drive; the analogue feeling of the 996 is something that I covet, even over the 991TTs, but maybe not quite as much as the 996tt...
Again Guys, thank you for your assistance here, and I am sure the owner is going to be very pleased with what he has built. Now, we just have to get some fresh rubber on it and give it a proper rogering ...
Cheers,
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