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YOUR RESEARCHTorque importance?
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Use flywheel bolts
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I saw a picture recently where someone had re-used flywheel bolts.
Leading evidence: 'Use flywheel bolts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'probably low now' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Test piece of the same bolt-thread' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Just take a test piece of the same bolt-thread, then snug it up and take a note of the angle needed to achieve the desired torque.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I tightened but I certainly could have tightened more.
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The 3 nuts on the muffler support bracket have like a 17-19 ft lb range. I could not get a torque wrench in and unfortunately didn't realize the torque until after I had car back on the ground. I used high temp anti seize on them. Now I likely went on the tighter side. I would turn until pretty snug but I definitely could have turned some more. This anything I need to worry about? Not sure what happens if they are too tight and then they get heated. I can jack back up and loosen but as mentioned, I can't get a torque wrench in there.
Thanks.
Get a spare bolt, fender washer(or a piece of steel) & nut approximately the same size and put it in a vise.
Then tighten it with your torque wrench.
Do this a dozen times and you'll know about how much force it takes to hit your torque target.
You won't be totally accurate, but you'll likely be as close as a cheap chinese torque wrench.
There are certain things that while they have torque specs (ie muffler bracket), I doubt it matters much. I know I didn't torque any when swapping to BBE mufflers.
I guess my concerns was the bolts or nuts breaking off once heated because they are too tight and them falling off while I am driving.
Doesn't sound like I need to be concerned. I tightened but I certainly could have tightened more.
I am a hack DIY guy at best so I tend to throw a bunch of dumb questions out there. Thanks for the help.
Since you used the Anti-seize you should be ok, even thou you over torqued it.The torque spec is for dry torque. The lubed torque spec would be less depending on the lube.
I think there are certain things that torque play an important role with. If I can't get a torque wrench in there, I'm probably not going to lose too much sleep over it. Things like cylinder head bolts or other critical fasteners yes. I have been using the anti seize too and I know that alters things as well. There's corrosion on a lot of these fasteners as well.
Just use the "torque-angle" method. Much more accurate than a Torque only method anyway.
Just take a test piece of the same bolt-thread, then snug it up and take a note of the angle needed to achieve the desired torque.
Then replicate the angle on the work piece...
I wouldn't worry too much over it. Muffler brackets bolts are not like cylinder heads that has to be torque down very accurately. Depending on where you live, if you encounter road salts during winter, I would worry more on corrosion instead.
I saw a picture recently where someone had re-used flywheel bolts.
The used bolts couldn't achieve the correct torque.
I can't remember where I saw it.
It was either Jake, Tony Callas, Charles, or one of the local Porsche Techs I know...I don't remember...
Standard practice to never re-use flywheel bolts from what I was taught. Head studs made to compensate for stretch on a single torque is a good example, other bolts are susceptible to the same stretching if (operator) variables stack.