Replacing Engine - Other areas to address while engine is out?

In the next few weeks I'll be installing my new engine in my car and shipping my broken engine off to Jake for diagnostics and hopefully a new life for another driver. While I have my car in the shop and the engine out, I'm trying to think of other areas to address while the opportunity is there. So far, I'm having the following done: - Borescope the new engine - New bolts/seals in most places - New hoses/tubing in a couple of areas - Possibly a new coolant tank - Deep sump kit transfered from one engine to the other What else should I consider? IMS upgrade is already done in the new engine.

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Well, since you have unfettered access to the engine before it is installed, unless any of these are clearly new and show no signs of any trouble, there are plugs (and maybe new plug tubes if any are cracked and new tube o-rings all around), coils, AOS, fuel filter, engine air filter. If original or quite "old" do the water pump and T-Stat. You will of course refill the cooling system with fresh coolant. There is the RMS. This is tricky. If you replace this you must be sure that the new one doesn't end up exactly where the old seal (or seals) was (were). Refresh the clutch it necessary. Even if the basic clutch hardware is ok there might be some components that are deemed necessary to replace whenever one is "there". For instance, my Turbo's tranny has been out now two times and each time while the clutch was just fine -- no measurable wear -- the tech replaced the needle bearings of the clutch control shaft. He says these (for the Turbo at any rate, I do not know if they or something like them exist in the NA engine's clutch) should be replaced every time they are exposed. Not sure I'd borescope the engine unless this is free. What can you do, what are you prepared to do if you "spot" something? Can you return the engine on just you find/see alone?

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Hmm...good point. I think it would really just come down to peace of mind. If something is spotted, returning the engine wouldn't really be an option, but at least I'd know and then might ship it off to Flat6 or something similar to be resleeved. Better that than end up with another busted engine, right? I'll definitely discuss the others with my mechanic. He recommended new plugs, but said it wasn't critical. I'm still on the fence about those. New air/fuel filters were definitely on the list, as were all the new fluids.

If it is the car in your pic the fuel filter is a permanent in the tank filter. Plugs and coolant tank are MUCH easier when the engine is out.

It's easy to go over board but like you said "while it's out". Maybe look at a new oil cooler. Also think about new fuel injectors. These items can be changed out with the motor still in but it will be a knuckle buster.

Besides what has been suggested - If it comes with the oil cooler already attached then you are good on that one. Otherwise, new O-rings for the oil cooler. All new intake O-rings, TB O-ring, would definitely install a new AOS, water pump, T-stat and gasket, replace coolant tank. All this is much easier done with the engine out.

I'm surprised no one mentioned to make sure you finger your sump. Besides the above, maybe check the condition of the IMS tensioner paddle which is what the prognosis was on Cuda's engine. Since you are doing all new bolts, you probably won't have to check them as Jake has reported bolts backing out for no reason as well.

The engine is out and the new engine is getting prepped to be installed. I'm excited. We're been able to identify any potential trouble areas and are creating the list of what work will be done. So far, this is what we have: Non discretionary - Install new engine - Transfer exhaust - Replace Fluids - Replace oil & charcoal filters - Replace battery & tray - Replace most bolts, seals, o-rings - Replace power steering pump - Replace clutch release bearing Discretionary - Replace Expansion Tank - Replace AOS - Replace fender liners under front bumper (they're all messed up) - Replace engine mounts - Replace exhaust The price of the non-discretionary stuff was higher than expected by about $1k. So I'm finding myself less enthusiastic about the discretionary stuff that can be delayed. A few questions: 1. There are no indications that the AOS is going bad. It's the original AOS, so about 57k miles on it. The motorspors AOS seems a costly upgrade right now, but I'm wondering whether I should just stick with the one on the engine for now. 2. Is replacing the expansion tank necessary? Among the other details, I forgot to ask the mechanic this. 3. Regarding exhaust, the picture below illustrates cracks that have developed in my mufflers. I thought I'd upgrade, but for now, these run fine as they are. I may put this project off as long as possible while I do my research on mufflers. There's a guy locally selling a set of Fabspeed Supercup mufflers. Apparently they sound great, but over time can be a bit too much for someone driving the car regularly. Anyone have experience with these?

My mufflers: Mufflers

I would definitely replace the cracked muffler. You may be losing torque with a leak that big.

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Not really, it's a poor man's fister mod. lol. The supercups are wedged between fisters and exhaust bypass pipes. Can't really say they're loud or quiet as it's relative to everyone. If you do a lot of highway DD though, I'd think twice about them. Motorsport AOS is only needed IMO if you do track days often and even then depends on the driver/tires/track.

I'd definitely replace the AOS and plugs while the engine is out. Relatively cheap, and super easy.

You are over thinking this. If the clutch is good, leave it alone. Maybe put a new release bearing. Put new plugs in it and fluids to get it going. Why would you want to replace the battery box?

Motor mounts, trans mount (either form-function or windshield weld), fuel filter, slave cylinder, clutch & flywheel. If I had the motor out, I would remove the sound deadening/insulation above the engine (use dry ice to get off the gooey bonding material). Then apply reflective gold-heat tape to where the insulation was. This will lower weight on the back of the car, look better, and help keep heat out of the passenger compartment. Powder coat the cross-members under the engine and the rear sway bar.