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YOUR RESEARCHTime for brakes and rotors. OEM?
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Fill just like what you get
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The aftermarket OEM supplies them in both solid (rubber filled at half the price) and hydraulic (oil filled just like what you get from PAG).
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Just changed pads/rotors/sensors on my '99 996 w/77K DD.
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I have used aftermarket in past on other cars but other than the fact that my OEM Porsche are at end of life they performed admirably.
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Which probably means the term OEM isn't used consistently anyways.
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As a fellow 40AE owner I use oem rotors from Sunset in Oregon.
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My thought process was this: I got roughly 120,000 miles out of my OE front rotors (multiple pad changes) and have yet to change the rear OE rotors (130,000 miles, again multiple pad changes) I figured it was best not to experiment but stick with the OE.
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My thought process was this: I got roughly 120,000 miles out of my OE front rotors (multiple pad changes) and have yet to change the rear OE rotors (130,000 miles, again multiple pad changes) I figured it was best not to experiment but stick with the OE.
Replace rear oe rotors (130,000 miles, again multiple pad
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My thought process was this: I got roughly 120,000 miles out of my OE front rotors (multiple pad changes) and have yet to change the rear OE rotors (130,000 miles, again multiple pad changes) I figured it was best not to experiment but stick with the OE.
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to meet Porsche standards versus what they sell retail - but more likely there is no difference for most users.
Time for brakes and rotors. OEM rotors and pads or ?
2004 AE, DD, 74k miles.
I have used aftermarket in past on other cars but other than the fact that my OEM Porsche are at end of life they performed admirably. That said if can save significant by going aftermarket on rotors all the better.
What are your thoughts gents?
i just did the back brake pads with OEM textares and they are great for a DD. They can be a little dusty, but I got black rims and it doesnt show. When I need to due the rotor, I may upgrade the backs to drilled rotors, but i will likely keep the fronts stock.
If you go OEM from somewhere like Pelican, you'll find that some of the OEM suppliers (like Balo for rotors and Textar for pads) are affordable. Sure, you can save a few more bucks by going with eBay rotors, but the price difference isn't as drastic as you might imagine.
I'm cheap, but I still go with OEM suppliers for brake components. I don't want to wind up with a cross-drilled rotor that was finished by some random guy with a drill press and only a vague idea of how to avoid drilling through vanes...an exploding rotor can turn a good day into a "
Hamilton
."
Ok, let me rephrase.
In past on other cars I have used Power Slots, Zimmerman, Sebro etc... with success and in some cases they actually worked better than OEM for less. I am not really hung up on cost nor am I going to get some no-names off eBay. What I meant I guess is what is the best performance vs. cost option? OEM from Pelican, Sun Coast etc or higher quality 3rd party?
You are going to get a lot of different opinions on this one. My thought process was this: I got roughly 120,000 miles out of my OE front rotors (multiple pad changes) and have yet to change the rear OE rotors (130,000 miles, again multiple pad changes) I figured it was best not to experiment but stick with the OE. As far as I am concerned as a daily driver, DIY, and the safety aspects of the brake system, the Porsche OE brake setup on my 996 is perfect. I feel confident driving and braking...I really don't even have to think about it. Pelican Parts, Sun Coast Parts, Auto Atlanta have some good prices and packages for rotors, pads, dampers, etc.
Even after some abuse (AX, bombing down 8,000 ft mountain road), the Textar pads and Balo rotors have performed very well. Even when stinky hot, they're still grippy enough to lock up.
I'm running Hawk HPS pads...solid stopping power and less dust than stock (on silver rims).
When I have to replace rotors I'll go with Sebro cross-drilled, which is OEM replacement for those on the car IIRC.
For my car, which I use primarily for long-distance road trips, these are just fine.
you sure about that?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Origina...t_manufacturer
When referring to automotive parts, OEM designates a replacement part made by the manufacturer of the original part.[2] As most cars are originally assembled with parts made by companies other than the one whose badge appears on the vehicle, it may happen that a car company sells OEM spare parts without claiming to have manufactured the part itself.
An automobile part may carry the designation OEM if it is made by the same manufacturer that made the original part used when building and selling the car or pick-up truck.[2] The term aftermarket is often used for non-OEM spare parts.[2]
In purchasing parts at national, discount auto parts retailers (e.g., NAPA, Auto Zone, Halfords, Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Motrio, Autobacs, etc.), many parts will have OEM prominently displayed but followed by a qualifier such as "meets OEM standards". Such auto parts are not OEM; they are simply claiming to have been manufactured to the same specifications as the OEM parts—specifications that may well be unpublished and unknowable.
OEM = original equipment manufacturer. It's the opposite of aftermarket, not a synonym.
Porsche doesn't MAKE all of its own parts - thus there is no "factory stuff" when it comes to rotors, pads, MAF sensors, ignition switches, water pumps, and all the other crap Porsche resells in Porsche plastic bags and cardboard boxes to separate knuckleheads from their money at the dealership parts counter.
I'm 100% sure. OE = Original Equipment Manufacturer (same company that makes the OE but at a lower standard). OE = Origanal Equipement aka comes in a Porsche box in this case and made bybthe OEM (higher quaility than OEM. OEM is usually higher quality than the rest of the aftermarket but jot as high as OE. Parts that don't quiet make the OE quality but make the OEM quality control gets sold as OEM. Its logical if you think about it.
So, if I buy the "OE" MAF from Porsche in a Porsche box, Bosch part #0280218009, it's different than if I buy Bosch part #0280218009 from Amazon in a Bosch box? And Bosch does different quality control for MAFs that are sold to Porsche as opposed to MAF sensors that are sold directly to the public? That must be tough to keep track of, especially without using unique part numbers.
Well crap, now I have something new to mock N-rated tire buyers about...if they don't get them directly from Porsche, they're OEM N-rated tires, not OE N-rated tires.
Sebro and others are oem suppliers - ie they make the parts for Porsche. There maybe differences in test flows etc. to meet Porsche standards versus what they sell retail - but more likely there is no difference for most users. We are talking 10 year old cars here - so quality parts without Porsche box sound good to me ....
Unfortunately yes, that's how I was explained to. The part has to pass a tighter Porsche tolerance (spec) and then they put the triangular Porsche logo on it. That makes sense if you think about it. When a component is mass manufactured, naturally some will fall outside of whatever spec'ed by Porsche. Those "inferior" ones will be sold as Bosch OEM parts. As to whether the real statistical difference justifies the price delta, that's a completely different question.
For very pricey parts such as starter, alternator, O2 sensor, MAF, etc. I go OEM as I feel my odds are pretty good getting a reasonable part w/o getting the Porsche spec'ed ones.
N-spec tires are different as N-spec itself already means collaboration of the tire manufacturer and Porsche so any N-spec tires are already up to Porsche standard.
How so?
Btw, I buy all my parts from Autozone when i can because they have lifetime warranty. It's especially important for stuff like the fragile AOS.
Damn, I sure as heck don't want the NON-Porsche approved version of a certain bearing...probably only lasts six minutes. It's a good thing for us that Porsche is around to demand higher-quality bearings that will last at least 5,000 miles or 42 minutes, whichever comes first.
Actually the parts are made to a Porsche specification, OEM is just a marketing term that means almost nothing in North America nowadays. Whether or not you find a similar part in the aftermarket is entirely hit or miss (usually comparing dealer cost gives you a reasonable idea).
When it comes to brakes, Brembo makes calipers for Porsche that were designed (and patented) by Porsche. The brake pad compound is specified/owned by Porsche. And their suppliers are usually forbidden from selling the exact same product for a certain period of time (years). You can get something similar but its not exactly the same. ex. for many years you could not buy plunge proof Bosch O2 sensors (which only mattered if you drove in heavy rain) for the 911 anywhere else other than directly from Porsche... Whether or not that matters is something else entirely.
Bosch makes parts for different markets. The parts look the same, kinda function the same but they're not the same. I know they are pretty good about taking back Chinese market MAF sensors that find their way into North America! (a good reason to avoid eBay)
When it comes to brakes it is funny to watch people rave about how good they are from Porsche and then install recycled cast iron bathtub rotors from China that were imported by a real estate agent with an account on Alibaba, living in his parents house pretending to have a machine shop in southern California... (I will admit 4 rotors for ~$230 is tempting but I've been down this road before) The brake disks for your 996 came from SHW and there is no comparison to Zimmerman (which is not OEM for brake discs but they do make some decent racing discs but those aren't what you get when you buy their rotors from your (insert favorite) supplier...) or Sebro (made a small batch of discs for Porsche Classic and for the Boxster prototype(?) -- could be a bargain if they last anywhere near as long as the OE rotors). So yes, OEM = Aftermarket and OE = Original (look for the Porsche P surrounded by a triangle on the part or for it to be scratched off). Another recent example would be motor mounts. The aftermarket OEM supplies them in both solid (rubber filled at half the price) and hydraulic (oil filled just like what you get from PAG). Also the corrosion coating is almost non-existent on the aftermarket OEM mounts. People think they are saving a fortune and getting the same thing when buying from Pelican but the reality is they're not.
Another example would be aftermarket Sachs clutch discs use to be thinner than the OE discs but I haven't measured one anytime recently so I can't say if that is still the case or for which model.
If you buy mail-order (ex. Sunset Imports) you can usually get the OE part for about the same price as the aftermarket version but its not certain and sometimes it doesn't really matter.
^^^ Not exactly. Its the same company that makes and boxes the Porsche parts but they are of lesser quality. The parts that don't quiet make the QC control or an entire batch made to lesser quality are sold as OEM. For example: Good Year makes tires with Good Year name but they also make tires that don't have a Good Year name but retailers still say.....Hey its made by Good Year so its just as good. When in fact it isn't. That tire line has different quality or spec standards and so do OEM parts.
damm dude... Srsly? How many more references do you need until you realize that you are not correct?
http://goo.gl/dTtsX9
http://goo.gl/FvAOA5
http://goo.gl/upmLc
http://goo.gl/pv1nvF
http://goo.gl/wgvgm1
http://goo.gl/ngTxaQ
its okay to be wrong, it happens to all of us sometimes.
Well, got a few quotes Sun Coast, Pelican my light is still intermittent so I have a few months before need to do it.
Plan is to buy all the parts and drop her off at my indy for brakes, install SS hoses, swap out my noisy passenger radiator fan and do an oil change.
I will also be dropping off almost $2k so not really in a rush, LOL.
I'm pretty sure that most of those links are slightly incorrect. I've discussed this with someone who works for a parts supplier and the term OEM is much more broad than that. It technically just means that the replacement part was made by a parts manufacturer that has sold parts to the automobile manufacturer. I'm not quite sure if the parts manufacturer had to sell parts that went into the specific model though.
Usually this means that the OEM part is the same as the OE part but without the branding. However it could also mean that the OEM part has slightly different specifications or tolerances (which is often the case for brake pads and rotors) or even be a completely different part.
And I believe it is also fairly common for a parts manufacturer to call a part OEM even if they didn't supply that specific part at all for that automobile. All they had to do was sell some part to the automobile manufacturer (possibly for that specific model but I'm not sure).
So I interpret OEM as that there is a reasonable chance that the part is the same as the OE, but the only real fact is that the parts supplier has at least passed the "quality bar" for something it has sold to the automobile manufacturer.
I'd like to be proven wrong, but I'm also not aware of any legal enforcement on the use of the term OEM for non-OE parts. Which probably means the term OEM isn't used consistently anyways.
funny how only the Canadians are arguing this. Maybe it is different up there? let us all believe as we wish. Its really not worth the effort to debate this anymore. The evidence is up and let the masses decide for themselves.
Semantics, tomato, tomata. The important thing here is that you don't get stuck with any Chinese knock offs.
http://www.zerotohundred.com/2014/au.../#.U_aCL8u9KK0
What has being Canadian have to do with this? We buy parts from the same places you do (ie Pelican, ECS Tuning, Suncoast etc.).
I was arguing because I have been mislead by parts labelled OEM (specifically rotors for my GM Acadia) and I was trying to help others avoid the same problem.
The OEM vs OE debate has been going on on car forums for over a decade. I found one discussion on Bimmerforums.com from 2002. And lots of other discussions but it takes a bit of googling and reading.
ie
http://beranek.agrrmag.com/2012/06/oem-v-arg/
But back to the original discussion on 996 brakes I am curious whether the Textar/Pagid pads are exactly the same formula as the OE pads. The pads that were on my car when I bought it had the name Textar stamped on the pad. I ordered Pagid pads to replace them and the replacements came in a Pagid box but had the same Textar name AND number stamped on the pad. I'm not the first owner but I thought the pads were the originals.
Has anyone figured out exactly which pads and rotors were the original equipment? It sounds like there were multiple suppliers at least for the rotors but I'm not sure. I'm almost due for new pads and was going to switch to Hawk HPS but I think I'd like to stick with OE rotors.
I think the Textar (OE?) pads work really well on the street and are reasonable for the occasional track day. But they are really dusty.
Also FWIW I went with cheap brake sensors during my last upgrade and they completely melted on my second lap at a track day. The cheapest ones at Pelican aren't worth buying...
I thought I was pretty clear. did you miss the sentence where where I said, "Maybe it is different up there"? geesh.
Without doing some kind of mass spectrometry on organic chemistry blah blah, no one will ever be able to determine if it is exactly the same compound. Likely yes though.
Just changed pads/rotors/sensors on my '99 996 w/77K DD. My indy recommended Textar rotors and Pagid pads. The rotors are "coated" for anti-corrosion...a nice feature. So far, I'm happy with the new brakes.
For the record, Textar is a leading Germany based O.E. approved aftermarket brand/supplier, but on certain P-car models has been an OEM.
(Testar, Pagid, and Minitex, and some others, are part of TMD Friction, an international company.)
relinuca
You can't go wrong with any quality brand and you can always do research based on reviews regardless if OE or OEM.
If you're looking for exact match substitute as what came on the car, no need to spend the effort worrying or researching. Just buy it from the dealer.Done deal.
As someone who works in the automotive industry the way it works in the circles I travel in, it is as Imre states.
The problem is there is no hard and fast rule about what is what. The parts can be as good or not even close.
The OE parts (from Porsche) are always within design specs. The OEM ones may or may not be, but also may be just fine. There is no hard and fast way to know for sure.
