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Another Loss of oil pressure

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YOUR RESEARCHAnother Loss of oil pressure

Reported or suspected cause

very low or no idle

Reported cause

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Reported cause

You can easily get fixated on the oil pressure when the problem is a very low or no idle.

Another Loss of oil pressure
Frequently discussed work

Check any pending dtcs

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Suggestion

I'd check for any pending DTCs.

Another Loss of oil pressure
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Leading evidence: 'very low or no idle' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'very low or no idle' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any pending dtcs' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Test before ride maximum mark, very new oil 10w-40 total

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

Parameters: RPM, normal...oil 1.5/1000 rpm, ambient temperature 25 C, oil level manually tested before ride maximum mark, very new oil 10W-40 TOTAL...

Another Loss of oil pressure

Check any pending dtcs

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Suggestion

I'd check for any pending DTCs.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Check connection in case it is loose or there's corrosion

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Suggestion

The sensor/sending unit is probably bad but you can check the connection in case it is loose or there's corrosion.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Check oil filter

Suggestion or failed attempt

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Suggestion

Also have them check oil filter for any metal shavings.

Another Loss of oil pressure
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Check any pending dtcs

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Suggestion

I'd check for any pending DTCs.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Check connection in case it is loose or there's corrosion

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Suggestion

The sensor/sending unit is probably bad but you can check the connection in case it is loose or there's corrosion.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Check oil filter

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Suggestion

Also have them check oil filter for any metal shavings.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Clean bill of health

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Suggestion

An oil sensor/sending unit R&R is not a big deal but the though while rare but not impossible loss of oil pressure should be checked out and the engine and its oiling system given a clean bill of health.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Inspect oil pump

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Suggestion

Elie, at this point I would tow it to the mechanic and have them take off the oil pan and inspect the oil pump for any blockage and for proper operation.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Replace oil pressure relief valve

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Suggestion

Then, replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version if you haven't already, and then replace the sending unit.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Replace sending unit

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Suggestion

Then, replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version if you haven't already, and then replace the sending unit.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Run below its specified idle speed

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Suggestion

The knocking is probably not so much (if any) oil pressure related but the normal noises of an engine running below its specified idle speed.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Run engine

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Suggestion

Obviously it needs sorted out before you run the engine when there is insufficient pressure read.

Another Loss of oil pressure

Run engine and get the car flat bedded

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Suggestion

But I take your point, and would add to be safe the OP should avoid running the engine and get the car flat bedded to a shop for diagnosis and repair.

Another Loss of oil pressure
Reported and suspected causes (1)

These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.

very low or no idle

No successful repair reported for this finding.

1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Reported cause

You can easily get fixated on the oil pressure when the problem is a very low or no idle.

Another Loss of oil pressure
Coverage and how to read this overview

Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.

30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Rennlist: 1 discussions

0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.

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Generation: 20261027T082735Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources

POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Dear all, I know there has been several posts about this, but most of them for idle times... So please help me with this, I have a porsche carrera 2002 model, and this is the problem: Setting: After long times of driving, mountain road, during the climb, the temperature would usually reach 190-200, which i think is normal, right? My speed usually doesn't go above 110 Km/h, slow for a porsche... Parameters: RPM, normal...oil 1.5/1000 rpm, ambient temperature 25 C, oil level manually tested before ride maximum mark, very new oil 10W-40 TOTAL... Problem: At the end of the 1hour 50minutes journey, total loss of oil pressure and car turned off. There has been 2 warning signs before that where i would lose oil pressure, but as soon as i floor the fuel pedal the car recuperates. I don't know if removing your foot off the gas is considered idling in this case, but its usually what you would have to do when a car is in your way ...this is the 2nd time this happens at the same area, can it be the altitude? (>2000 meters high) I'm forming a testing strategy because i will not leave it up to the mechanics who already nearly destroyed my engine twice by their unprofessionalism. So my strategy goes in the following sequence: - Test oil filter, even though its a new OEM part that i recently changed, but i need to know what to look for exactly. - Pressure relief valve (even though i think this should cause oil loss pressure everytime i go for a climb, not only when i drive upwards for more than 40 minutes) - Gauges Any feedback is well appreciated, especially if i missed another point... On another front, does everyone have on their car manuals that the porsche needs 8.5 liters of oil? Thank you a lot...and great forum btw, helped me a lot with the classic porsche overfill Best Regards, Elie

POST 2Original post

You will have to elaborate on total loss of oil pressure and car turned off part. How do you know that you completely lost the oil pressure? What warnings popped up? Did engine cut off on its own? If you really lost oil pressure and engine stopped, usually that means you already caused terminal damage to your motor and engine is ruined.

POST 3Original post

It may be that your described circumstances are coincidental to the classic oil pressure sensor failure, and e.g. the recuperation you refer to is the bounce back that happens in that state. Obviously it needs sorted out before you run the engine when there is insufficient pressure read.

POST 4Original post

The engine is not losing oil pressure or the symptoms would be quite different. The sensor/sending unit is probably bad but you can check the connection in case it is loose or there's corrosion.

POST 5Original post

Quotes source post: 11597545

I disagree here Macster. I would also say "sensor is acting up", if not for the part of his engine shutting off on its own. When sensor goes bad, you don't get the engine shut down. You get the the "oil sensor died" message on the dash, needle for oil pressure drops to zero, and you continue driving along.

POST 6Original post

Yeah - depends what you mean by "car shuts off" - engine dies ? When the sensor is going bad the needle on the dash will drop to zero pressure and you will get a warning message coming on in the display - then needle will randomly bounce back to 5 bar ...common issue ...

POST 7Original post

To be absolutely sure, attach an external oil pressure guage to the motor to make sure there is really no oil pressure problem. Pretty unlikely, but better to be sure than sorry. Then, replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version if you haven't already, and then replace the sending unit. Probaly overkill, but I don't mess about with oil pressure.

POST 8Original post

I think you have an idling issue when the engine is hot and not an oil pressure issue.

POST 9Original post

Quotes source post: 11597556

If the sensor/sender is bad and sends a too low of oil pressure signal to the DME the DME could I guess turn off the engine. It is very rare for an engine to just lose oil pressure. In the case of the Porsche engine the IMS has to stop turning or a pressure relief valve has to stick open or the engine possibly develops a huge internal oil leak. And it is rarer still for one to lose oil pressure and not suffer serious internal engine damage that upon restart of the engine, if the engine would even restart, to not make itself known. But I take your point, and would add to be safe the OP should avoid running the engine and get the car flat bedded to a shop for diagnosis and repair. An oil sensor/sending unit R&R is not a big deal but the though while rare but not impossible loss of oil pressure should be checked out and the engine and its oiling system given a clean bill of health.

POST 10Original post

More clarification is needed from the OP regarding engine shut down by itself. When my pressure senders went bad, the DME didn't even try to shut down the engine. Car just drives normal, like everyone else. The pressure goes to zero momentarily but then recovers. I've gone through 3 sensors in 60k miles and every one of of them failed the same way.

POST 11 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11597160

The total loss of oil pressure was the message i got on the front screen. The engine started sort of knocking for a few seconds, then shut off automatically...Previously the engine would knock a little, with the loss of oil pressure message appearing, but then everything goes back normal again when i put my foot back on the fuel pedal. I tested the oil today, still at maximum level, clean oil (no contaminants and probably no fuel as well)...Engine performed well today, but i didn't climb with it, oil pressure normal i would say... For Imo000, idling issure not oil pressure issue? so probably i should be able to test that even when the engine has not been running for very long... So i guess manual testing oil pressure is the best solution to begin with, time to look for some new mechanic... Do i really need to worry if the engine turns back on normally? Thank you all for your feedback, much appreciated...

POST 12Original post

Elie, at this point I would tow it to the mechanic and have them take off the oil pan and inspect the oil pump for any blockage and for proper operation. Also have them check oil filter for any metal shavings. Knocking and shutting off is definitely not normal. Your situation does not sounds like a simple sensor failure. This is the sensor failure message FYI.

POST 13Original post

Sounds like your bearings are shot. Knocking noises are true signs of no oil pressure. As someone else mentioned remove the oil sump pan bc there is going to be oil shavings in there. Youre either going to need a rebuild or find a used engine.

POST 14 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11598783

off to the mechanic then...but just for info i might have described knocking wrong?...i don't really hear knocking, the engine shakes for a moment before turning off...is it the same?

POST 15Original post

Just a WAG......I had a cam actuater go bad one time. Car stumbled at idle and oil pressure was very low but cleared up at higher RPM's. I had a CEL too but it was not flashing. The code I had if I remember right was 1304. My car also shook like you describe.

POST 16 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11598889

did it eventually turn off the engine?

POST 17Original post

Quotes source post: 11598951

Yes...it would not idle on it's own without adding some fuel.

POST 18Original post

If the engine idle drops too low, so will the oil pressure. You can easily get fixated on the oil pressure when the problem is a very low or no idle. The knocking noise can be from the very low idle too however you need someone that knows what they are doing look at the car. They don't need to be 996 experts.

POST 19Original post

I agree the issue doesn’t sound like an internal engine problem if you can keep it running with the gas. I’d suggest plugging in an OBDII reader to have some idea what’s going on before you make the trip to the mechanic.

POST 20 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11599167

Turned on the car today, and it seems when i'm driving the oil pressure is stable, but when idling the oil pressure varies between 1 and 1.3 roughly, not sure if this is normal...

POST 22 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11599808

i was parked...

POST 23Original post

Starting with MY2000, the 996s were fitted with electronic throttle pedal assemblies, and throttle position was electronically integrated into the DME system. Even infintesimal changes in throttle position are communicated. Your symptoms seem to be prompted by lift off...that may be significant. Time for a Porsche DME systems guru to get invloved. relinuca

POST 24Original post

Quotes source post: 11599833

When the car is parked what are the RPM's? Under 500?

POST 25Original post

Quotes source post: 11599741

Based on my experience that's about right. Porsche doesn't call out a hot idle oil pressure, just oil pressure at some higher RPM. So the way to know if hot idle oil pressure is ok is if at hot idle the low oil pressure light doesn't come on. That and that the oil pressure at high RPMs is ok. The assumption is that if the oil system can deliver oil sufficient oil pressure at say 5K RPMs with hot oil it can handle the oiling needs of an idling engine just fine. My WAG is there is something amiss with the engine -- but not oil pump or oil supply related -- that causes the RPMs to dip and the engine to eventually stall. As the engine RPMs drop the oil pressure drops -- gear driven oil pumps do not like too low RPMs, they do not work very well at too low RPMs -- and you see the low oil pressure warning. The knocking is probably not so much (if any) oil pressure related but the normal noises of an engine running below its specified idle speed. You need to get the car to a qualified tech for diagnosis. I'd check for any pending DTCs. The symptoms sort of sound like some of the ones my 02 Boxster engine manifested when a VarioCam solenoid/actuator started acting up. The engine RPMs would drop dramatically and the engine would sound very bad -- very sick -- but RPMs would rise with some throttle and the engine would sound ok again. After I turned off the engine and restarted it the symptoms went away and I drove the car home 30 miles away. I am not recommending you drive your car any! Get the car flat bedded to a shop for a pro's diagnosis.

POST 26Original post

Another assenting opinion that something (perhaps a vac leak) is causing the stall at idle, which you're interpreting as a loss of oil pressure and the engine turning off. Getting to a mechanic is always a good idea when the engine's stalling without your assistance.

POST 27 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

One more shot for the owners, my engine sound on camera, not sure if you can make anything out of it, but probably worth it: this was recorded after 45 minutes drive in traffic, max speed 60 km/h... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irTZ...utu.be&html5=1 Also excuse my lack of knowledge, what is the VAC problem? Thanks all for your feedbacks, i'm getting back my 2nd car tonight, so no more driving the porsche until pb is fixed... Best Regards, Elie

POST 28Original post

Sounded fine. VAC = vacuum. 5chn3ll is referring to a possible vacuum leak causing the stall at idle.

POST 29Original post

Is the "knocking sound" there in the video? It sounds fine to me.

POST 30 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 11602047

No knocking sound, the only time the knocking happens is when the rpm/oil pressure are getting very low, just before the engine stops, or just before it recuperates with some gas... I guess i have what i need now for the diagnosis...all valuable inputs, i'll start working on it soon, and will let you know the results...

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