29 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCalibrating lid pot troubles
Leading reported evidence
Check finger switch
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So adding to this, I checked the finger switch for the top.
Leading evidence: 'Check finger switch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust pot' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So I checked my motor by applying 12v directly to it.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
All the drive links see to be in great shape and working order and I tested the microswitch too.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used the drive links in the PIWIS and the motor for closing the lid and opening the lid is moving properly.
Set lid in the position described in the procedure
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
If you are talking about part #2, then set the lid in the position described in the procedure, then remove the motor and set the motor to proscribed value ( potentiometer is in the motor) .Then reinstall the motor,
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Suggestion
If you are talking about part #2, then set the lid in the position described in the procedure, then remove the motor and set the motor to proscribed value ( potentiometer is in the motor) .Then reinstall the motor,
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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3 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
I had an older thread that was all over the place (my fault). I had to emergency close my roof cause of rain. The parking brake switch was bad and replaced. I need to calibrate now. I got the gears for the latch aligned. I have the lid motor out. I adjusted the pot to 6.2k ohms but if I try to put it back in the car the resistance goes out of whack. How to I remove the pot from the motor. Do I have to have the allen bolt out of it first? I do have a PIWIS to calibrate after.
If you are talking about part #2, then set the lid in the position described in the procedure, then remove the motor and set the motor to proscribed value ( potentiometer is in the motor) .Then reinstall the motor,
Then calibrate, note;;; it doesn't have to be dead nuts on, that is the reason for the calibration.
I got it off and on but not the pot. I did get it to 6.35k ohms but not 6.2k ohms. When I calibrate with my PIWIS, I hear a solenoid for a second and I get end point not reached. There is lots of fluid in the tank. If I hit the open or close button the latch cycles from open to close back to open, etc. The PIWIS shows my roof is open but it's closed and locked. The compartment lid never locks and just shows it's closed on the PIWIS. I metered the micro switch and it's fine. I metered the ones in the locking latch and the overhead console. They all test good. I must be missing something. Oh and the PIWIS the values are within spec.
By all the steps - did that include removing the front latch and retiming with a battery source ? It's been five years since I fixed mine but I remember the front latch timing was off due to a manual top close .
Yes you are correct. It's one of the first steps in the service repair PDF. I aligned the gears with the dots. Then I pulled the pot out of the rear motor and adjust to 6.2k ohms. Still not working. My PIWIS gets that error right away. It worked great until the emergency close I did.
I can't get the blue pot out of the motor. Is there a trick or just get it as close as I can to 6.2k ohms? Also, can I apply 12v to the green and grey wire to see if the lid operates?
Yes, just get it as close as you can, doesn't have to be dead nits on. Yes you can use 12v to run the motor, I usually just drop the battery out of my battery powered tool and grab some jumpers. There is 1000 things you can do when working on cars with the battery pack and jumpers...
Excellent! I am getting somewhere. So I re-calibrated the roof latch between the dots and when I engaged the motor by pulling the allen key out. It says to power the motor with a battery to fully open. Well I did that and now the dots are not in alignment. Is that ok? Also, I left the motor for the lid hooked up but removed. Used the drive links in the PIWIS and the motor for closing the lid and opening the lid is moving properly. But when it's in the driving mechanism the lid doesn't move but if I push on the lid, the spindle on it rotates left and right. Could the motor be weak and not powerful enough anymore to more the lid? All the drive links see to be in great shape and working order and I tested the microswitch too. This car never sees rain or wet roads and only driven a 1000 km's a year.
Yes,sounds like either your drive mechanism is tight/binding or the motor is weak,
As far as the roof latch, just follow the directions, I can't explain it any better than the directions.
Is the motor a common problem with these units?
So adding to this, I checked the finger switch for the top. It's backwards in the PIWIS. When the roof is closed, the PIWIS says it's open. WTH? The latch lock is correct but the finger is backwards.
So I checked my motor by applying 12v directly to it. It's moving but my question is, when the motor is moving, should the center pot be moving with the gear? Mine isn't.
Do you mean the emergency allen key screw? If so, besides adjusting the resistance and tightening it, what else can you do with it? I got that to 6.35k ohms which I was told is close enough. But when I directly apply power to the motor, the spline gear turns but the center square pot doesn't move at all. If I manually move the lid back and forth, it's free moving with no binding. The top cable on the drive mechanism never moves as well. I did test that microswitch and it's working fine.
I believe you have the screw too tight .When it's turned all the way in it disengages the motor .I don't recall how many turns in the screw should be set to for normal operation -shop manual will have it .
So I pulled out the motor and loosed the bolt. Put it in 3 turns then threw some voltage at it and the center pin snapped into place! I'm going to put it back together in a bit and post my results.
New update. I'm getting somewhere but not too far. I got the lid to close and open with the button on the dash. The switch in the windshield had a broken wire. So here is the new dilemma. When the top is up the piwis shows it's closed. When it's down the piwis shows it up. The roof won't operate on it's own. I have to manually close it or open it. I do hear motor noise but nothing is happening. Do I have to release pressure on the pump?
The more I think about this the Piwis readings are indicative of the root cause .If top down and piwis indicates up pump will go in wrong direction .There is a top position sensor that might be the culprit -
So the finger switch is readaing backwards. When the roof is up it reads closed and vise versa. I read that I might have to release pressure in the pump. How would I do that?
from passenger compartment facing pump there is valve that you turn with the hex key .The valve is used to disengage pump for manual operation .Don't believe the finger switch is the issue or pump pressure .There is a top position sensor 996 613 31302 that may not be reading correctly .I know nothing about piwis but it might be one of the sensors that can be recalibrated .
Wow did I get far tonight. I did see the pot arm for the roof in the side panel but it looks like it's working. Have to figure out how to calibrate it. So when I hit the close button on my dash. The latching hook locks, the clam shell closes, and the windows roll up. When I hit open, the windows roll down, the clam shell opens up, and I hear the pump but that's about it. The roof doesn't move. Obviously back to the pot readings being backwards. So here is my readings.
Pot 1 - 1.04 V
Pot 2 - 1.25 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 1 - .94 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 2 - 1.45 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 3 - 2.10 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 4 - 2.55 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 5 - 3.25 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 6 - 3.53 V
Calibration Pot 2 Value 1 - 1.59 V
Calibration Pot 2 Value 2 - 1.88 V
Calibration Pot 1 Value 3 - 2.06 V
Calibration Pot 1 Valve 4 - 2.78 V
Dummy here had the pressure release screw loose. Anyways, I got it to open 70% and then stops and I hear a click. I can't move the roof at all with the buttons, I have to release the pressure and pull up the roof. When the roof is almost closed, I can use the close button and the hydraulics work and the latch locks it. As well as the clamshell closes and locks. I can use the button to open and again it gets stuck at 70%. I checked the pot and it's at 6.2K. I put the motor back in, removed the allen bolt and then locktite and back in 3 turns. But it keeps doing the same thing. Am I missing something?
The readings I posted were the set values, I needed to look at the two values above the pots in the menu. I didn't go by the 6.2k ohms setting in the end. I had someone on another forum that walked me through everything. I couldn't calibrate with the knock off PIWIS and either could he. Might be just a flaw in it. But what I did was pulled the motor with the clamshell completely open and set the voltage on the PIWIS to 2.9v. Then loctite the allen bolt back in, tightened it up and reinstalled and it worked perfectly. One flap is noisy. I'm going to see if I can spray white lithium grease on the worm gear.
