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YOUR RESEARCHinstalling rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
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Reported cause · Original poster
Problem is actually that there are only two Flats on the ball joint so in order to reposition the wrench you must rotate a full 180� , nearly impossible unless you remove the shock absorber from the car.
installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
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installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
Run into the same problem
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I ran into the same problem when installing Feal coilovers in the C4.
installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
Set had the wrong threads
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Not only do you have the problem you described (2 sides vs hex nut), but one set had the wrong threads to fit into my strut.
installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
Tighten nut
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I don't see how you could tighten a nut that was not attached.
installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
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Reported cause · Original poster
Problem is actually that there are only two Flats on the ball joint so in order to reposition the wrench you must rotate a full 180� , nearly impossible unless you remove the shock absorber from the car.
installing rear sway bar drop links. What am I missing?
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Had these sent out from FCP Euro. Figured I would install them while doing my transmission mount.
Looks straightforward, but how do you rotate the end of the link that threads to the welded nut in the cup at the bottom of the shock Dampener. There are flats only on two sides so you need to rotate it 180� before you can reposition your wrench which is not going to happen with all the suspension links and control arms in the region. It needs to be six sided. Even a stubby won't rotate 180�.
Obviously I am embarrassed. Don't know how it should be done.
You turn the nut (as you should always do in a bolt and nut combo). The flats are there to prevent the stud from turning. Position them such that the wrench can easily reach them and turn the nut to tighten.
You can’t install them because you can’t rotate the stud enough to allow the wrench to reposition. The nut is not used. I purchased the same parts from FPC and returned them for another brand (TRW if I recall). They had a proper hex on the stud that allows you to reposition the wrench properly.
Can you attach that end first, by itself, and rotate the entire end link in order to tighten it? I did my suspension last year, don't recall a problem similar to yours, so there must be a relatively simple solution.
U can pull the shock out and install it. I know how much u like to explore your 996
. Here is the trw part.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Porsche-part...b=9&d=15675&v=
Just to pile on, the stock shock mount is just a hole, so it feeds through, and you turn the nut.
Aftermarket shocks for some reason decided they should have a threaded hole, so you need a different drop link which has a hex head on the ball joint.
Edit:. I might be an idiot. It's been a while since I swapped mine, and I answered before double checking everything. So don't listen to me.
I found this to be true. Some brands list inaccurate compatibility, despite the part appearing to match. I went through three sets of these links before I got one that would actually work. Not only do you have the problem you described (2 sides vs hex nut), but one set had the wrong threads to fit into my strut.
Now if only I could remember which brand was the perfect fit�..I think it was Meyle, but I could be wrong. Regardless, my lesson here was to not skimp on this part since saving $10 is not worth the aggravation of returning parts.
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Okay, you guys are awesome, group hug or whatever you're comfortable with. I'm flexible.
So here's the deal, yes, it's the rear shock and the sway bar Link at the bottom of the shock. Stock shocks. ( New Bilsteins in a box in the garage for now, that's another story, but in the meantime.. don't shoot me.)
Should be simple but in fact they are stock dampers and the nut is welded in place so you really need a six-sided type. Someone mentioned meyle brand which I have had luck with with other parts in the past and is what these are as you can see on the Dust cover. However, I believe the jeeper is correct. To my eye installing these would require you remove the shock, install the link, then reinstall the two together. alternatively you could remove some or all of the struts and control arm bits just to mount this silly little link.
I think it would be similar to splitting your case, removing your pistons, then cylinder heads, and installing your spark plugs from the inside, then reassembling.
So I'm thinking I might send these back until I develop a little more courage.
you have to get the right parts, you can't take the shocks off and get sufficient torque on the stud to avoid shear failure, it's a part flaw copied amongst a number of manufacturers
I ran into the same problem when installing Feal coilovers in the C4.
I ended up throwing them away and reinstalling the original drop links until the owner could buy a different brand.
I had had them in stock for over a year before I had someone need them and then they were impossible to install, even with the shock body outside of the car they did not point in the correct direction.
I didn't have a thin enough nut to make them fit either.
What's all this fuss about??
You can get these in the slim design even at Harbor Freight if yours is too thick. Or you can grind down the thickness by hand in just a few minutes if you have a good grinder..
It will make quick work of installing those meyle drop links..
I went through this too, one time anyway. The correct bolt/thread size is M10-1.5 but the part I got was 1.25. I just returned them and put the old ones back on but this thread is a reminder to get new ones. I'll probably go with the TRW.
thanks. For those who come later this is not a problem of the wrench being too thick. Problem is actually that there are only two Flats on the ball joint so in order to reposition the wrench you must rotate a full 180� , nearly impossible unless you remove the shock absorber from the car. The key is to have the six-sided parts as pictured in the link from the jeeper.
It's a shame they even sell them. now I have to pay for shipping to return them. and they are waffling on refund. Got-dandruff, some-uv-it-iches. I'm an american, dog gone it. I have rights!
I changed my rear end links yesterday. Really glad I got the TRW ones. I would have been very unhappy seeing the obvious problem with the Meyle ones. Parts sites shouldn't even sell those.
I knew I had one bad joint for the last year and finally got around to the swap. I didn't expect to feel any difference, but I was wrong. It definitely feels sharper now, wish I had done it earlier.
I did this the other day with the meyle ones. Let me tell you, I was cursing these things and the bastard who designed them.
I was able to get them on without removing the shock. I was replacing all of my control arms anyway so once the upper arms and the rear tie rod were off I was able to thread it in without removing the LCA or axle. It is possible. Very annoying to do.
