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YOUR RESEARCHlike it or not.. steel wide body ;)
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I too contemplated a lwfw, but it wasn�t the chatter that discouraged me, it was the unbalanced harmonics introduced that scared me off as I wasn�t able to find a shop nearby that felt comfortable making it all play nice together.
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the only thing I didn't like with it was the weight of the sub box.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It also goes to a second intercooler(2" thick) that's mounted between the upper and lower intake on the engine(seen in picks above) it self and filled with 50/50 antifreeze.
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installed any of the buttons that will be going in the center console
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I too contemplated a lwfw, but it wasn�t the chatter that discouraged me, it was the unbalanced harmonics introduced that scared me off as I wasn�t able to find a shop nearby that felt comfortable making it all play nice together.
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so I've been working on this for 2 weeks now and although I'm sure I'll get some guff for doing this from the Porsche gods... I'm enjoying it and having fun with my boy. so to the haters... please remember, it's just a car and life is short
creating memories with my son that will never be forgotten.. and I get a cool unique Porsche out of it
so attached is the car as it looked when I bought it this last summer before we cut it up lol also is the picture of the fenders I purchased off ebay for another project. My son is holding up the fender to see how it would looked. I did post this pic once before and it was labeled as ugly as an "uncircumcised *****" lolololol
So after thinking about it for a bit and selling my boxster a few weeks ago I thought ... why not !!! I've always wanted one of the those eye popping exotic cars I see on youtube and this Porsche is going to be it... or it will get sold for pennies on the dollor because I'm to embarrassed to drive it around my buddies with nice cars on our cruises in the summer cuz it sticks out like a sore thumb lol we will see.
Color is going to be synergy green, I bought the GT3 rear bumper, bought a GT3 style wing I'm going to custom modify to work with the areo wing on there. I also deleted the sun roof(weld in roof panel) and plan on doing a roof scoop.. yes a hated roof scoop. just save the judgment till the end
I will post more pics and post following this post as I'm not sure how many pics I can load per post. I will also describe each pic in the post so others who go down this road understand what all I'm doing and why.
I have not decided on the front bumper yet but it will not be the stock one. I might do something with the front hood as well... and fenders lol this is a work in progress.
I am a little further along than the pics will show as I don't have them all on my phone but will update as work is completed.
1999 Carrera with manual 6speed, complete fabspeed exhaust, fabspeed cold air intake, my genius tune and a complete Memphis stereo system with subs... loudest and best sounding system I have ever heard in a car and I used to do systems as a younger guy. it was done before I purchased the car and who ever did it spent some SERIOUS money on the stereo system.. I mean wow guys the car sounds amazing.
Brian
PS. I'm putting this thread in the three Porsche forums I'm a member in ... I love constructive criticism or fun car talk.
So these pics are of the cutting of the fenders... yes I did shed a tear or two as I made the cut lol
it went smoothly and I was able to cut exactly to my lines and was very happy with the alignment of the fenders wells to the body afterwards.
So now onto the welding. I started out with just a quick tac weld every inch or so as I wanted to make sure it was secure to the body but I didn't want to cause any warping. once it was tacked on I then went back and would weld about 3 inches at a time and let it cool down before welding again. I also made a return at the bottom of both fenders so they were not just flapping around toward the bottom of the fender and welded those on as well.
Making some side skirts to blend into the fenders.
I originally bought the GT3 side skirts off Ebay... wow they were quite flimsy and I did not like the look. I planned on moding them to make them work with what I was doing but decided it would be better to just make my own.
so these are just the forms in the pics right now. I will be making my molds from these which I can then pop a part to attached to the car. Very easy process, just takes a little patience.
So if you have ever bought a Duraflex part you probably already know how thin and weak they can be. That's not a slam on Duraflex. I have used a lot of there stuff and I like using them. But for those who don't know... they can crack and break and alignment can be frustrating at times.
The two pics attached show what I did to make them fit a little better. when I initially put the rear bumper on it was way to wide where it would attach by the rear fender. so much so that it cracked and slit apart at the rear passenger side corner about 3 inches long.
What I did was measure the width of the car where they mount and drew some lines on the ground. forced the sides to those lines with the straps you see in the pics and then put some fiber/poly on the inside of the bumper to help with strength and to hopefully conform it a little more to make it a bit more narrow.... it worked
and once I get everything fitted and finished before paint I plan on doing it again and pretty much coating the entire inside of the bumper with two layers of 1.5 chopped to help it. this will help with the sun warping it as well in the summer.. ask me how I know that
lol
Good stuff, you just need to be willing to add your touch to it and make it work.
and that's it till I take more pics. thanks for reading guys.
Very cool....so who will do the final paint and body work? Are you going to respray the whole car?
Was it a factory aero kit car or just the rear wing? Can't figure it out from the pictures because of the color of the car.
I will do the paint and body work.... in my garage
I will have to build me a point booth. I had one in my last house but this is our first year in this house and I don't have a pull barn here so I'm improvising
not sure what the options were for the areo but I'm leaning towards it was just the rear wing.
the few people who have seen the car in person have all said the same thing about the skirts lol the pics are not doing it justice. it really stands out and looks great in person.
I will post up more pics tomorrow. the pics posted today are just the ones I had on my phone. I've already started making my master buck on one side of the rear bumper. I have also ripped apart the sunroof and gutted the interior which I will get pics of as well.
so ya updates will be frequent as I am moving quite fast on this project. I want it done by spring.
Also.. if anyone is interested in the GT3 side skirts I bought, they are for sale. I paid $249 for them. i'll knock a few $'s off for someone who my wants them. also have a rear bumper and set of wheels(pictured in the first post) for sale. the rims have been painted and the tires have less than 500miles on them. fronts are 255/35/18 and rears are 285/35/18. I paid $700 just for the tires, selling for $700 for rims and tires.
oh ya and the Fabspeed exhaust is up for sale as well... the mufflers. The headers I'm keeping. Making my own exhaust
Thanks
Brian
shipping would be from 48446
Big amen to that. life is short and this past summer we had a scare to where my wife and I were setting up plans for my funeral... scary few months of my 40 yr life
I'm still on the mend but it definitely put some things in perspective for us. your kids come first and my little guy loves this stuff so I'm a happy camper having him out there in the garage with me.
Thanks
Where this is going is inspired from these 4 pics I'v had on my work pc for months. I'm not replicating anything on these cars but these are that eye popping appeal I'm trying to get to. The blue one... OMG I love that car, but I don't feel my skills are enough to get me to that thus my own build with out trying to copy another. To me all four of these cars would make me get my phone out if I seen them on the road
I never saw that RUF CTR3 before. Your post made me google it. Striking.
Looks like a cool project you are doing. Looking forward to seeing the result.
Subscribed! I like everything about this except for your plan to use a green from the Camaro and not one of the 100's of beautiful greens that our very own Porsche has come up with
Serious, though, no criticisms here. Roll on, sir!
Rob Dickinson spent 2 years cutting and shaping fender flares and caught no flack so no reason you should catch any. Hats off to you. ***** must be made of steel too to take a sawzall to your sheet metal!!
Love your fab so far. Can't wait to see the final result. Awesome project. I remember you post when you bought it, and I think I saw you around with your boxster on the forum.
wow guys lots of response and great comments.... thank you!!!!! I have a lot of pics to post today and I'll reply to all the comments first so bear with me
ya that's a sick car. its something like 700hp if I'm not mistaking as well. my motor will be the next project after I'm done with the body work
Yes. I still need to weld in the inner wells to the outer fenders. I will post up pics of that but that will be a little down the road as my main goal is to get the outside done and paint on. I think the rigidity of the handling will suffer if I don't tie those inner wells in.
I'm open to suggestions. I'm looking for a bright (not neon bright) popping green. we were originally thinking sapphire metallic blue but it just looks like ... stock, plain etc.
Yes!! I thinking I might offer this as a kit or individual parts. my older brother has a couple exotic cars but no Porsche and he is liking what I'm doing with mine and mentioned he might go get a Porsche so I could do the same for him. which got me thinking I wanted to make the molds sturdy enough to get multiple pops. sorry for the longer answer but yes I am going the extra mile on the molds to able to make more parts for those interested.
"Rob Dickinson spent 2 years cutting and shaping fender flares and caught no flack so no reason you should catch any. Hats off to you. ***** must be made of steel too to take a sawzall to your sheet metal!! "
lolol ya the fear and hesitation I had standing next to the Porsche with the my cutting tool was intense lol it took me two weeks of thinking about it and then after I decided to do it I kind of had that "crazy giggle" as I cut into the car lol
getting flack... I did this exact same thing to my corvette two summers ago and literally with all seriousness and anger had a guy tell me on the corvette forum that "their is a special place in hell for people like you who change the stock look of your car" ya he was crazy.. than some more crazy chimed in and agreed with him
I had my share of defenders but wow it really made me sit back and face palm the stupidity of some people. its a car!!!!!!!! lol anyway lol
"Love your fab so far. Can't wait to see the final result. Awesome project. I remember you post when you bought it, and I think I saw you around with your boxster on the forum."
thank you, yes I did a wide body on my boxster as well but after I had done all that work and made those molds... I messed up and ended up throwing it all away. to much to explain but this time.. I learned from my mistakes with that boxster
"Great project! Really excited to see how this turns out. Maybe I missed this, but what are you doing to the sunroof and interior?"
thanks.
sunroof delete, welding in the panel and getting rid of the track and motor for the sunroof. I'm lightening up the car a bit (where I can) and the sunroof I was not a fan of plus I want to do a roof scoop and that would have interfered with it.
interior... not sure yet. I have a Lamborghini diable replica interior (favorite interior of all time to me) in my storage unit that I'm tossing around the idea of putting in there. but that will be next winter when I do the drivetrain. for now I pulled it out to clean, get new seats and rears recovered, possible some paint scheme matching etc. we'll see on interior.
ok now on to some pics in the next post.
so the first set of pics is for the forming I did.
last night I did some forming of the drivers side rear bumper and side skirt. I use "plus 3" dry wall mud for forming. it goes on so easy, sands even easier and holds its shape quite well. after I get it formed to the way I want and make the exceptions for where I will need to build up with bondo for the actual part, I put on a layer of poly, let that dry then lightly sand it smooth and wax it with carnuba wax(probably spelled wrong) let that dry than spray 4 to 6 layers of peridial wax(also probably spelled wrong lol) on and let that dry. once that's all dried up its time for gelcoat(2 layers) than fibgerglass (layers depend on part im making) I like to use the cheap walmart then fiber glass for my 1st layer as it forms the corners better and when sanding on the parts I feel I get less rogue fibers pupping out that can be annoying. then I usually go with 2 to 3 layers of 1.5 chopped mat glass.
below is just a few quick snap shots of the forming and then of the gel coat, fibgerglass and poly over dry wall mud. keep in mind this is the beginning phase of the process. feel free to criticize, ask questions or just or what ever
ok so sunroof pics. I ruined my headliner getting this out
couldn't find any tutorials on getting it out so I just winged it... broke a wing in the process lol anyway the track I pretty much destroyed pulling it apart after I had it all out of the car but it didn't work so well to begin with so no tears shed for me. the cover(part I'm going to weld back in) looks like its two layers of stamped steel glued or spot welded together. I have looked to closely yet but I might try to separate them as that cover is heavier than you might think. holding it up in the car with magnets so I can see how wide the fill piece is going to need to be looks to be about .200 gonna head to local store tonight and see what I can find.
in this post I want to revisit that rear bumper and I have a quick question.
I took a pic of that crack I mentioned in an earlier post from getting the bumper to bend in so it could mount to the car. also a pic of the inside of the bumper so you can see the fiberglass I put on. also last night I took some foam water line covering and cut it into quarters. I'm going to soak them in poly, stick them to the inside of the bumper and then cover them with fiberglass adding some curves/tangents which I'm thinking/hoping will add some more strength to the bumper before I pull it back off.
I just don't want to run into the same things that happened on my boxster with the durafless bumpers I bought for that car. sun, heat and vibrations really seem to mess the after market bumpers up. so this is my attempt to minimize that.
oh that quick question I have is does anyone know what kind of glue is used to hold that bolt feature onto the rear quarter glass. mine pulled off when I was getting them out of the car. fyi..... there is three bolts holding that rear glass in ... not two so don't tug on it till you get all three off
lolol
That's a lot of gap to try to close in the sunroof... To eliminate the sunroof, it might be worthwhile/easier/cleaner to drill out the spot welds and replace the roof skin with one without a sunroof hole. I believe you can buy them new from the dealer at a reasonable price. It's a lot of drilling and rosette welding, but you end up with a perfect roof.
ya I also found the fiberglass roof online as well. I did think about going that route but it just seems like wasting money when I can put in a little more elbow work for free. I don't mind spending the money but I wont lie... I'm trying to reserve as much as possible for the motor build. when I do the motor weather it's as wild as I can get this 3.4 or a monster charged ls swap... I want it to live up to the look of the car. Plus.. my big brother has a bmw that was tuned and had some goodies installed at fabspeed and he smokes me so I have to be able to beat him when I redo this motor lolol
sssstupid BMW lol
ya but us mortals will never come by a $5500 tt motor lolI don't know what route I'll go. ls swap.. $20k , built 3.4l $20k, tt motor $20... not much for options lolsooo wish a mechanic would step out of the norm and just start building these motor for cheaper than everyone else. I suspect as the 996 gets into the cheaper price range and more and more back yard mechanics can afford them.. more options will pop up eventually. I picked my 911 up for $16k and they don't look like there going to go back up. every time I talk to someone whos non Porsche, they bring up "ya but I heard those motors.. bla bla bla"
I'm on the other side of that fence. I think we're at the bottom of a curve. That's why I got into mine.
We know all the problems at this point and we know all the fixes. Besides the aficionados that are just disgusted by the headlights, mechanically, once the IMS/RMS issue is spoken for with documentation, these engines seem to be likely to run high miles pretty easily. And they will always have the race/track audience. Maybe I'm just a romantic optimist. :-)
,
They're still 18 year old cars that need every plastic and rubber piece replaced, engine internals in the higher mileage cars need to be addressed too...No to mention there are hundreds of them for sale on any given day.
The beauty of the 996 (currently... values have no where to go but up!) is that you can cut one up and build your dream without anyone getting too upset about it.
One thing that can be said about the Porsche community, regardless of model, is that modified cars (Outlaws, race cars, etc) are never shunned and tend to be as appreciated as a factory-stock example. This could be a left-over mindset of the decades of low values but the fact that enthusiasm still trumps residuals in the era of sky-high prices says a lot about the typical Porsche owner.
And spending time with your son is worth more than anything. Well done!
valid points, either way .. I'm just going to enjoy the driving experience
already purchased and replaced most of my rubbers. mine were shot when I got the car. you could break it off with your finger nail. anyone have any tips for painting the black plastic pieces? paint used etc. ?
thanks.
Maybe something like Signal green?
Or Viper Green?
Here's a thread dedicated to all of the shades of Green from Porsche that people have collected with pics:
https://teamspeed.com/forums/porsche...d-porsche.html
so this weekend I tackled the sunroof. the gap that needed to be filled was roughly 0.200 so I had some sheet metal in my stash that I cut down to 0.175ish at 0.064 thick and fitted it into the gap. spot welded it and through out this week i'll slowly get it all welded in.
like an idiot I didn't cover my front windshield to protect it from the weld splatter... ya need a new front windshield now lol oh well I was debating replacing that anyway
.
This is a super project.
As an aside, my great fear is that by the time I have time to do stuff like this, only self driving electric golf carts will be allowed on public roads.
When it gets to that point... I'll be posting up another thread.. "my 4x4 Porsche build" lol
me to cuz I have no idea which way I'm going with this thing lol kind of wingin it
lol
so on another note... paint jobs. Let me say this first... keep an open mind lololol so both of these cars I painted about 8 years ago. these were more on the crazy "just having fun" kind of paint jobs I did. although I must say both of these Camaros I built had insanely fast motors in them and they were not to be taken jokingly on the street when people offered to race me in them... they were scary fast.
anyway... the green is "sublime green" what do you guys think about that color on a Porsche. I'm leaning towards maybe going with the viper green a few posts up but I really did like how the sublime green looked in the sunlight.
second question... this is that open mind part lolol would I be ostracized if I did some tribal designs down the side of the Porsche like I did with these Camaros lol just asking.. stop punching your screen and puking in the waste basket lol
EXACTLY what I thought when I saw your son in the pics. None of my friends can do any mechanical work on their own. They are shocked at how I am not afraid to work on anything, whether it is car-related or house-related. It's all because my dad got me involved in EVERYTHING that broke in our lives.
We are the same age. I went through a life-changing situation where I look at life differently as well. I was the opposite of most people. I was a saver. Always focused on the future. I'm enjoying life much more now.
Anyway, glad to see you being adventurous with the car. You don't see that much with this brand of car.
Subscribed!
totally agree. I used to do carpentry in my early 20's and now my wife and I have investment properties on the side and jr helps me all the time work on them when I have to fix something. We refuse to let him be an iphone kid lol life is what you make of it and he needs to understand that.
thanks
very cool project! I love custom work like this when it is in good taste; love fabricating stuff and have tried my hand at everything you're doing. My current project is a 914 with steel welded flares.
I was going to ask how you made the initial plug but then you described it; really cool and very creative!
Based on your LOL-to-comment ratio, I'd say you know what we're going to say about the "Tribal" design. But to be a good sport, if you're going to do it, stick to rounded angles that play with the natural shape of the car. I feel like the jagged nature of the Tribal / Tattoo style is going to fight the soft, flowing body style of the 996.
thank you sir
ya I was cracking up when I posted those pics. I just pictured heads exploding but your comment made sense. I have seen some rounded graphics on youtube that looked pretty neat which got me thinking about maybe trying them.
not sure how detailed I should get with this build. some don't like the small posts some like every detail documented. for me I'm the latter but i'll try to stay in the middle
last night I sanded on the drivers side skirt and got it about 80% to where the passenger side is. had to put a little more mud on it, so waiting for that to dry to finish.
the passenger side I worked on the bonding surface to the car. not sure how to word this or explain it but i'll try. this is where the part/skirt will have a void outward but be 1 to1 to the car where I will stick it and then cover up the void with bonder/glass.
This way I will have a seamless skirt. I'm not a fan of seeing the seams like I do on youtube for a lot of them so I'm crossing my finger that it bunds well enough and doesn't crack the paint or anything with flex of the car. I'm going to look into some 3m type glues to see if I can get a better adhesive than just bondo/glass to the metal.
If anyone knows of a good product, feel free to throw it out there
Picks attached are of the bonding surface I'm referring to.
thanks
RE: Seams
Take a look at what Akira Nakai does with the seams on his RWB builds.
You Tube
Also: how does this guy spray paint freehand without getting over-spray everywhere?
don't hate me but ... I'm just not a fan of his. not trying to be a hater but I feel like he just jumped in on a wave and is some how thought of us an artist now. his seems are visible, he screws into the body all over and then he sits back and smokes a cig looking at the car that he just installed parts on like its some incredibly complicated thing that he just did lol I'm not ripping on the guy its just every time I watch his vids on youtube... that's how I'm left feeling. just seems like a quick gimmick.
Don't worry, none of us puts much stock into what you think anyways.
I always look at the RWB builds as what a 911 would have looked like if it was made by a Japanese cartoon artist. I am impressed with his skill with air tools, and how he seems to to the alignment and suspension set up by sight. I don't know that I would allow him to spray paint my tires though.
When I get the skirts and lip on my C4S painted, I am going to seal the seams RWB style with black silicone. I think it looks the business.
I'm not sure what you need, but I did replace my headliner with a factory Alcantara one after I bought my car....so I have the old panel and headliner, I think it has the wings in it....if so, I could basically give it to you for shipping. It's a grey vinyl one.
super huge thanks to paul. it came yesterday, thank you!!!!!
so I had my paint mixed up last night. its a cross between "antifreeze green" and "envy green" I like it and super excited to see how it looks on the car when I should have some color pics by the end of the week. Also had matching caliper paint mixed up
color scheme is going to be green/black. taking my interior to a local upholstery shop to get some prices... we'll see.
finally finished up the forming of the driver side skirt and wheel flare for rr bumper. starting on molds for those asap.
also started on dents that need some fluff.
last but not least.... the scoop!! lol I plopped some mud on there last night and just did a ruff form to see if I'm going to like it.... I do but it has a long way to go. please chime in on opinions on this roof scoop.
blind scoop, I'm reliving my childhood "that looks cool" thoughts on this one guys lol its just for decorations. it will only weigh about 2lbs but I'm pretty sure it will make the car faster
ttt123, I know you're just test fitting at this stage but where you're at now it's hard to imagine because, as you said, it's just a lump of mud on top of your car. If you decide to go through with this, pay very close attention to the curves at the opening of the scoop as they can make or break your look. Right now with no opening it looks very awkward - almost like a "Gurney bump" was added for a center driver. Between the neon green paint and the over-fenders I'm not sure if the scoop will be perfect or crossing the line, LOL!
Here's one I found that I think looks pretty good for what it is.
that one is sharp. I'm thinking mine needs to get wider and the front bump is just that... lump of mud. its going to take a few days to dry and then I can start doing some forming. I'm not sure how tall I want it either. but the beauty of doing this stuff with the dry wall mud... its soooo easy to form and change things up.thanks for the input.
Get thin sheets of Styrofoam cut to size and laminate them onto the roof. Shape it to your liking and fiberglass when done. Real easy to work with and redo if you don't like it.
i'v done the Styrofoam method... not a fan vs this method. I can get much more detail out of the mud than the foam. but everyone does there own thing and theirs more than one way to skin the cat
Thanks
Why don't you try something that will actually make the car faster like the "double bubble" on the 911R and the 997 Classic Sport?
See:
http://www.design911.co.uk/pages/ima...ery=1&igid=121
neat look but i'v already started forming the center bubble but if I don't like it when I finish.. maybe i'll redirect.
So just a quick update. Last night I pulled off my first mold.. came out quite nice
I wont have much clean up to do for it and will hopefully be making my first part within in a week. tonight or tomorrow i'll be pulling my second mold which is the driver side of the mold I pulled last night. one side of the skirt mold is almost ready to be pulled probably another week on that. the skirts are taking longer than I thought and turning out to be harder than I wanted lol laying the fiber glass on the underside is not easy, kills my arm, fiberglass sometimes wants to fall and its just a pain in the dupa.
so the pics below have the mold mess, just want to say a quick comment on this for anyone who might be trying this stuff. using the drywall mud as my forming component when popping the mold makes this part easy. all I had to do was squirt water periodically around the mold and let it run down underneath over the span of about 20 minutes and viola... it falls right off. The drywall mud, once it gets wet just turns to mush. Run it under some water and clean off the mold and its done. way easier than trying to pop the wax layer that is usually done. I do put wax under there as well but mainly as a way to just be another barrier to separate the mold from the car.
The paint pics!!!!! omg guys... this paint looks amazing !!! the pics do NO justice to how it looks. the pearl in this paint looks so nice. I've painted metallic over the years and this is my first time painting with a pearl and wow.. just wow it looks so good. the pics below are before I wet sanded and clear coated so it did darken up just a bit and show the pearl better after. i'll get some better pics of the paint another time.
more updates in about two weeks.. hopefully
Brian
I cant wait either lol I'm trying so hard to get it done before spring so I can drive asap but I think its gonna be close.
Thanks, it looks so much better in person ...I love it !!
great work. what's the difference between pearl and metallic paint?
I'm assuming you don't put tinfoil over your buck before glassing it? I've seen that as a way to peel off the mold more easily, but sounds like you have a good process already
that's a good question ... I don't know lol years ago I worked in a tooling shop and had to paint and clear coat mahogany models and I learned how to lay down paint from some great painters. so I've always painted my own cars since then. as far as the technical stuff on paint .... have no idea lol the guy at the paint store who mixed it for me was trying to talk paint talk and I just had the deer in the head lights look on my face. I had to tell him ... make sure the mixing directions are in the box cuz other than spraying it.. I know nothing lol rather than sparkles in the paint it has something like a white haze under it that come out when light shines on it. kind of give it a transparent look from different angles. maybe some paint gurus can chime in and elaborate on it.
the tin foil... I've tried it and didn't like it. leaved wrinkles in the mold and the foil just seemed to be more of a headache than it was worth. this method I'm using FOR ME seems to be the easiest way to go about it.
I was to busy at work to post pics (they expect me to earn my wages
... crazy) yesterday so here I am today. I had a good weekend and was able to get a bit done on the car.
first pics are the side skirt for pass side. squirted it with water and let it seep down behind the mold and.. presto, popped right off
very cool as I was very worried if they were going to come off with out any issues. now I'm cleaning up the mold and should be making my first set of parts by the end of the week. so as of now both rear bumper flare molds are made and off the car and the passenger side skirt mold. laying up the drivers side this week.
second pics are of the calipers. they look good enough to eat lol love em!!! I took them to my brothers house where all my big tools are since this new house is to small for that stuff
and sand blasted the calipers. primed them, 3 layers of paint, Brembo stickers applied and then 3 layers of clear coat on them. if you zoon in on the close up pic you can see they pearl in it.
last pics are of the roof scoop. I've started sanding on it and forming it. I think I want it to be a little shorter off the top. any thoughts on it?
Thanks
Brian
I think you're off to a good start - the important question to me is whether you plan to actually have a hole up front, the impression of a hole up front (I.E. concave but not open.), or if you're just going to have a solid piece up top. If you're going for a hole I think you may want to reshape the very front of the scoop - where the opening would be. Right now you have it sloping forward toward the glass, which gives it an aerodynamic look, but if you have an opening up there it will look a little funky, especially near the top of the opening. This is because the top of the opening will be further back than the bottom (near glass). If you look at the silver car I posted, the scoop is nearly vertical at the opening to mimic the shape of the glass, and then curves back to meet the back window. I did a quick sketch overlay on your photos to show what the difference would kinda-sorta be if you were to modify what you have. The perspective is not perfect so you'll have to use your own eye in your garage to modify if you agree.
Also - this is probably the angle of the photo, but the bottom photo makes me want to ask you to re-check your symmetry!
What do you think? You've got eyes on the actual car so you've definitely got a better perspective of the symmetry.
I think I'm going to lay it back and see how it looks as just a decoration on top first and if it doesn't look right I will add on the mud and make it look more like an opening. the blue line in your side view marked up pic.
the pic from the rear where symmetry is in question is me looking at different ways I want to have the sweep look as it goes down toward the roof top. still not sure if I want it more visible(right side) or more blended in(left side)
Thanks for the input, very good stuff
^^
Gotcha! The blue line was me tracing the contour I saw in your photo and the pink line was me showing how I would modify the front to fit an opening if you choose to go that route. Prolly shoulda explained that bit! As for the contours in the rear that's an interesting question. In my mind it should start wider near the windshield and narrow as it approaches the rear glass, while simultaneously getting closer to the roof / losing height. I found a few more angles on the kit I posted for inspiration / mini-design study. Obviously if you google "996 roof scoop" you get these photos but in the spirit of the forum I'm posting some here. I know you're kinda doing your own thing but seeing this shape from other angles may help you figure out your build! Good luck!
so the pics show the rear bumper flares I glassed on last night.
pic1 is grinding away the bumper surface so the glass sticks better also to make the part and bumper seem have a lower profile for me to blend and sand.
pic2 is the back side of the part ground away to do the same thing as the bumper.
pic3 showing how it blends together.
pic4... success
pic5 success x2 lol
very happy with it, came out great. everything lined up and I don't think blending it will be to complicated. one side skirt part is made and the other side skirt mold is just about done. also the roof bump I'm making is taking shape and i'll have some pics of that soon as well.
last night was a huge motivation for me. I finally have some parts mounted!!! super excited
so just a quick update.
1-Rear bumper is pretty much done as far as smoothing out the blended surfaces. I just have to sand a little bit on the drivers side and cut our the under lying bumper where I overlaid the new which you can see in the pic of the inner view of the bumper.
2-my molds are still nice and sturdy after pulling my parts out of them
3-driver side mold is just about to come off, probably tomorrow.
4-working on the passenger side skirt while its off before I attach it so I can do the smoothing out and pretty work on the underside before it goes on.... sanding while laying on my back.. not fun.
5-few new parts came
some mufflers I'm going to try, some steel braided brake lines and some lift pads for the car. I still haven't received my cats yet. but when they come in i'll start my exhaust build and post pics of it.
6-roof gelcoat has been applied. will be putting on a second coat tonight and then glass Thursday.
Thanks for looking
I cant wait till I reach a point when I can afford a lambo like yours, I'm getting there. Lamborghini is in our 5 year plan for my wife and I. lol llooovvveeee that color!!!!!
Thanks
Umm... sorry I don't know what that means lol but thanks
ok so I see this thread is still getting lots of views and not to many comments anymore which is fine I just want to throw it out there, that if I'm being a little to frequent with the pics and info as far as detailing the small stuff. please say so and i'll cut back a bit. I'm one of those guys that when I read a thread, I like to know everything they did so I can follow it if I want to do it as well so I'm trying to do that here.
so last night I got a lot done but most of it adds no value to the thread but the rear bumper does. if you look in the previous post I have a pic of the inside view of the bumper in the wheel well. you can see how there was two wheel wells as the new part I made was laid over the bumper. I used a "lap joint" to put that part on. well now that its secured well and not going anywhere last night I cut out the original bumper behind the new part(wow I'm confusing myself, hope this is making sense) after I cut it out I added more glass and poly on the back side to give it more strength. while I was at it I put a little more through the center of the bumper where the sun will beat down on it. like mentioned back toward the beginning of this thread, on my boxster the front and rear aftermarket bumpers I put on ended up getting quite warped after the first summer from the sun. Duraflex parts are very thin and it doesn't take much heat to soften them up. hoping to avoid that this time. once I get done with the back of this bumper I will paint it all black and it will look just fine.
more pics to come
thanks
Thanks. no worries on the comments guys. I appreciate them, I just don't want to create a thread that is redundant and annoying. just trying to make sure its thorough
Tekkie... I feel your pain.. let me help you out... sell me your super charger kit and than you'll have less to do
we're not to far apart, if you need a hand just let me know.
oh I cant leave this comment alone lol ok so bring your Porsche(love that yellow) and drop it off at my house. I'll make it look like mine and you can give me your lambo
lolol honestly guys my skill are completely self taught and really just comes down to patience. I will sit and stare at my project till the thought bubble pops and then just take my time making it happen. I'm sure pro's would laugh at how I do things but for me... it works.
ok another post coming up after this one with lots of pics and a question... please help
1- Hey guys... please help. I am not up to speed on the Porsche motors YET. I've read up on them but I have not wrenched on one other than changing a serp belt on my boxster. next year when I rebuild the 911 I will get edjumacated
ok so I have an oil leak.. pretty good one. it is the first two pics. it is on the drivers side right above the header. please don't laugh but... is that the head cover? is it something I can fix without needing anything special, meaning unscrew some bolts, put on new gasket and tighten back down. or is there going to be some stuff that's over my head to do?. orrrr is it not my cover that's leaking and I just made myself look like a totol idiot lol?
2- next pics ... new parts!!!!! yay!!!! my new high flow cats came in last night. so my exhaust build will be starting very soon. I need to order me a header kit from summit and then pics will follow
3-exhaust dropped, had my little helper help me with those. although you know your working with your 7 year old when you ask him to grab a socket swivel and unscrew the bolts that I loosened up for him... then you walk away and come back to see him have ALL your swivels out on the floor and playing with them
I said "son what are you doing" he replied with "daddy they look like little army men so I'm having a battle" lololol he had my impact swivels going against my chrome colored swivels .. kids are precious and man so much fun lolol he was a miracle child for us and were just approved for foster care so we are looking to adopt very soon for a sibling for him and another joy for us.
4-i was able to get 2 layers of glass on the roof last night. I don't like to put it all on at once because in the past I end up with warp in the finished product because of the heat. so tonight i'll put on another 2 layers and some supports and it will be ready to pop.
5- just a quick two pics of how I break the molds loose for those who might want to do this. so I take some shims and really lightly tap them between the mold and the car with a 14lbs sludge hammer lol ok not that big. once you get it started, squirt some water behind it and let it do its job. repeat ever 15 minutes or so till the part pretty much falls off. than let your 7yrs old have a blast scraping the dry wall mud off.... they actually really like that part. "look daddy I got it all over my cloths... think mommy will be mad... oh look some swivels" lol attention span of a 7yr old
lol
6- rear bumper is done. got it primed last night and i'll sand it tonight and hopefully get it painted this weekend. wife is on training this week and for the next two weeks so I'm getting 4 hours a night of garage time... ohhh the guilty pleasure lololol
more pics on Monday
This is the wheels I think I'm going with from CCW wheels. What ever rims I go with though I will be going with black as I think it will look better with the green paint. green and black will the be the theme. I'm also going to go with the same bumper I put on the boxster but I'm going to mod it. I drew some black lines on the pic attached. seeing the bumper in person on my boxster I don't like how it dives inward there. Makes it look to pointy, so I'm going to widen a bit at the corners by those lines.
anyone have any input into the question in the previous post ?
thanks
guys
I agree...that is what it is likely to be.... These are cheap plastic tubes that some O-rings on them that could leak or even melt if the engine ran hot. I don't remember if the heads have to come off to replace them. I have a set if you want them...just pay shipping. Would be happy to contribute to your project...even in a small way.
that would be very appreciated. i'll make sure my son doesn't pair them with my swivels and tell me there cannons for his battle lol
i'll pm you.
thank you
another big thank you. that saves me scouring the net to find out how to do it. like I mentioned I just don't know much about this motor yet but I will catch up. so sorry if I ask silly q's
Changing those darn tubes is a pain, you might as well do the spark plugs & coil packs while you are there, thats what I am doing with mine (plus injectors). I am really considering dropping the motor I think in the end it will be easier and my stress level will be less.
it would be a good idea to have a look inside while you have the plugs out, i have one of those fancy cameras that you can put in the spark plug holes if you want to borrow it
well I had a good weekend in the garage. I can see how on that side of this thread it could be " oh cool he got the side skirt on" but on this side this weekend was "Houston.... we have lift off " lol I was worried how the skirts would mount and what kind of troubles I would run into as this is my first time ever doing side skirts...this skirt went on quite nicely
. I have two layers of my bondo on there and its very solid and secure on there.
also I was able to get the roof scoop popped off. that went really well as well, took about 10 minutes. the second picture is the mess it left behind lol my drywall mud method is not the cleanest way to do this stuff but it sure seems like the easiest.
lastly I had planned on painting the rear bumper this past weekend but I forced myself not to lol. I usually get so anxious to get paint on parts when I do my cars and I'm always frustrated with not fixing the little stuff and the bumper just wasn't perfect so I wanted to retackle some of the little blemish's that I seen. I'm really trying to take my time and make this car perfect
my not seem like much but this tedious stuff out of the way is motivation.
Thanks
sorry forget to reply to this one... um ya I'd love to barrow it!! lol that would be some great piece of mind to know how those walls look. I can come to you to get it if you want. I'd still like to get pics of the supercharger kit as well so I can piece together my own kit
also thanks to the guys who came over this weekend and checked out the car. the Porsche community rocks
1-Big thank you to lowpue for the tubes.
2-bunch of pics of the paint on the rear bumper and center of rear wing. can you see the blend lines on the rear bumper where I made my parts... me either
lol came out pretty good after paint. granted I haven't seen it in the sunlight which is where the imperfections will really show but it looks pretty good so far. I still need to wet sand and clear coat so they will be shiny after that is done which I should be able to get done tonight. I wouldn't say its a $10k paint job so far but perhaps up there around $9,995 lol for a garage paintjob .. I'm content.
3-molds for drivers side skirt and roof scoop and then the gelcoat on the roof scoop. I still need to clean up the skirt before I can make the part.
I'm off to Tennessee for a week for work so no updates for a bit. but if there is anyone in Tennessee who needs carbon cleaned out of there Porsche motor Just let me know I'm always up for a cruise
lol
take care
so last week my post was of the rear bumper with out the clear on so first few pics are of the clear applied.
next two pics are of the part being made for the scoop.
next two pics are of the roof with out clear.
lastly is the pics of the scoop/roof with clear.
I'm about 60% satisfied with the roof
I spent about 16hrs sanding on that roof to make sure there were no blemishes with the bondo so you couldn't see the blend of the scoop to the roof. with the primer, It looked great and I was confident that it was going to look great. after the paint went on.. I could see some spots that will be noticeable in the sunlight
super bummed. I am happy with the over all look of what I did though.
so this post shows the start of the exhaust I'm building. I cut off the triangles thingies where the fab speed headers go into the rest of the exhaust... it was quite choked down. so I opened it up to be a smoother flow. you can see in the pics how much I had to take out to match it to the headers. the complete exhaust will be a smoothly matched up 2.5 inch exhaust with quad mini sport mufflers. hoping to achieve a higher pitched sounding system over the previous fab speed system I had. fab speed has a great system, but I'm trying to get a different sound. if the system sounds like poo I'm only hour about $300... its worth the learning experience to me
and if it works ... yay!!
also a pic of my exhaust kit from summit, really great quality.
last pic is of the control arm area tore apart. next order I make will be for the new bushing for the whole car and the new coil over suspension.
another post coming in a few minutes of paint on rear fin
thanks
oh ... ya I know I could have just bought new triangle thingies but why waste the $. it only took a few minutes to hog these out
so I cleaned up the rear fin. gotta say the quality of that fin.. not to impressive. lots of wowies and warped areas that I could see as I sanded it. also had to fix a few spots where the fiber glass started to separate.
anyway, first 2 pics if primer
1 pic of before clear
2 pics of after clear
2 pics of fin on car because I wanted to see it lol
2 pics of driver side skirt. one of it in the mold the other of it after it was pulled
lastly..... the wife got a puppy
why oh why
palm and Chihuahua mix... I'm pretty sure that makes a rat highbred lol
hihuahua mix... I'm pretty sure that makes a rat highbred lol
looking great the wing looks awesome! I was not sold on the hood scoop but it looks pretty good as you kept it small as you said from the beginning
sorry i forgot to reply to your post earlier ! I will send you an email on some stuff tonight it will be easier
my wife just got a 10mth old dog also the thing is already driving me crazy LOL
Thanks for that.
The wide body in person looks more factory then you might think. the side profile of the car as it comes down by the rear side window to the hips over the wheel well and then down to the flares I welded in.. really does kind of flow nicely. The flares had the radius at the connecting point to be a lot more pronounced(look in the first few posts) but I wanted it to be a little more subtle. the rear bumper mod I did also is not to loud, kind of a soft/smooth blend.
It may look a little louder after I get color on it all but for the most part I've really tried to keep it classy aggressive if that makes sense. Tekki has seen it in person and I think he would agree... it looks stinkin sexy in person lolol picture this car with the green/black contrast(look at fin pic with black mounting plate for sneak peak) and some 325/35/19's in the rear. the roof scoop, the front bumper(ordered and on its way)... the tinted windows... oh ya I'm lovin it !!!
since I have the molds to do this again, my older brother is looking for a nice turbo 996 so I can do this for him as well lol he's a bmw guy but is sold on the look of mine so far.
thank you. the paint, I'm extremely happy with. I wish I would have had a real paint booth so It could be show quality. but for a garage paintjob I'm pretty content. once I get it all back together I will wet sand it again and buff and it should be good to go.
also real quick update since I probably wont have much for a week or so. some of my v-bands I ordered came in last night and I also started making my x-pipe. reserve opinions on this till I get it a little further on lol I'm just brain storming and getting fitments right now. wow its tight under there for an exhaust.
Wow man this build has been fun to watch. I get excited when I change the oil myself and this guys like hold my beer I�ll fabricate a car in my garage.
lol
thanks man
so quick question... does anyone know what the fabspeed mufflers weigh? I sold mine before I thought to measure them. I want to compare the weight of the fabspeed set up with stock cats vs my system I'm making minus cats. I'm thinking I'm shaving at least 10 to 15 lbs. those stock cats are heavy and the fab speed mufflers seemed heavier than what I'm putting together now.
their is actually 4 mufflers I'm putting on I just showed 2 in the pic in case anyone was confused on why those fullers were where they were.
wow, really impressed w/ the speed of this build -- would take me a decade, lol. if you go w/ black wheels (which will look great), I'd suggest doing a time attack in matching green around the outer edge of the wheel. so many folks complain about black wheels being a black abyss that takes away from the look of a car, but if you have something w/ an open spoke pattern that shows off the brake rotor and green callipers (the one you posted would), the time attack adds shape to the wheel and really pulls everything together imo. Looks fantastic man, can't wait to see more.
I hear ya. Im not completely settled on rims yet. I do want something that shows off the calipers and i dont want them all one color but its hard to find rim makers. I found a company in tokyo but i canr seem to get ahold of them. They have a huge selection of wheels and they are made to order. I have the link on my work pc. Ill post it monday (off work today)
sorry lol
Question for you...
Are you going to do the body drive it a bit then do the engine or just one big project doing everything at once.?
Great work and fun to watch
Thanks
getting the body and suspension done now. Drive it this summer and then next winter ill drop the drive train and have it redone and also going to rip out the interior and have some fun there as well.
Hey this is the Dundon exhaust I put on my 996 (though it it has a 997S engine)...saves even more weight than any thing else, does not CEL and harvests something like 35-50HP. Charles can tell you what to expect on your engine.
hey guys.. i'm bored at work.. really bored and i'm sitting here at work going through some my threads of cars i've redone and built over the years thought i would post a link to them all incase others are bored as well lol if you enjoyed this build thread you will enjoy These as well as some of them are just as crazy.
start at page one for them all as you will see where they started from, the tear down and so on. i think two of them required two thread to see the finish. lastly... some of them have pics of me in it... dont tease me for being a short,pale pudgy Little guy lolol
enjoy
https://www.theturboforums.com/threa...-build.360501/
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...u-think-4.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...-my-7th-2.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...2-460hp-2.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lete-redo.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-my-car.html
long post/update, lots of pics.. I hope I'm not killing you guys with redundant and boring pics. just trying to be thorough
So this post will go through the exhaust mods.
1 ok so first pic was just my second set of mufflers that finally came. you can see the yellow lines on them for where I cut them to shorten them up. as you guys know its tight in the rear and I needed them to be as short as possible.
2 two halfs of the x-brace
3 how I fitted each side of the x-pipe and spacing of the mufflers. spacer between the mufflers than rubber bands to keep them squeezed while I tacked them.
4 on floor ready to weld on the stainless side of the v-bands
5 stainless welded on.
6 bracing I welded on the mufflers to keep them together whenever I need to take them off so they keep there fitment
7 how the x-pipe came out after welding. had a horrible time welding this x-pipe together.. not sure why but I kept getting popping and inconsistent welds on it
8 stainless welds. this was my first time welding stainless... I thought it went .. ok.
9 length of the finished system
10 finished look
11 weight of the system.
another post coming after this one with the new parts that came this previous week and progress on the car it self.
so this previous week I was able to get the driver side skirt mounted, bonded in and ready for paint. pics 1, 2 and 3
4 sanding on the door openings.. that's some knuckle busting stuff right there.
5 primed
6 painted but not wet sanded or clear coated. should have done/on by end of the week.
7, 8 and 9 wheel well paint. I have used por-15 in the past and JUST MY OPINION, that stuff is highly over rated. for the last few cars I've done, I have used the stuff pictured. it is oil based and seeps into every crack and coats extremely well. looks great, very durable and is intended for tractor equipment that sits in the elements year round.. great stuff!!! you can get it at TSC (tractor supply company)
the remaining pics are of the new parts that came.
hope you guys are enjoying this thread as much as I'm enjoying this project. having a blast and cant wait to get it back on the road.
The fact that all of this is done by one man and in a home garage is incredible. This is my go to thread, and I�m enjoying every post. Keep it up man it�s starting to look incredible.
thanks again guys, its motivation to know people are watching. it looks like every update(usually Mondays) lately has been getting about 300 views.. that's pretty cool. makes me want to keep at it lol my wife and I are extreme homebodies and not very social people other than church and functions for our little guy so this thread and the couple other places I have it posted is my social interaction lolol so its very exciting to get feed back.... thank you
for anyone who has a pair and willing to sell, I'm looking for a set of rear inner fender liners. the plastic pieces that go behind the tires in front of the stock mufflers. this car came with none and I'd like to get some back on there so my tires don't spit rocks back and tear up my rear bumper. I found one on ebay a few weeks ago and missed it.
thanks
Brian
There are no inner fender liners that go in front of the mufflers... And yes, the sand and rocks do tear up the front edge of the fender behind the rear wheels... I just coated mine with stone guard and repainted them...
really!?! ... that's not cool. I just assumed because my boxster has them that the 911 would also. Well in that case... "hole my beer".. i'll make some
lol I have to have something back there, I don't want everything getting torn up back there.
Thanks
so I wet sanded and put on some clear coat. also fitted the exhaust in there. if I was going to do it again.. I'd go just an inch or two skinnier on the width. it was tight making these bends. I still need to make the exit to the tips for it but you can pretty much see how its going to be. the pic from the rear with the bumper on where you can see the exhaust hanging down was before I raised it a little. Its about an inch higher so theirs a little less sticking down. no more updates for a little bit as I have to head out of town for a few days for work which is going to slow me down
Campbell hausfield compressor, tsc $450
Divibliss spray gun, $600
box fan from walmart.... $10 lol
sheet of 1/8 thick wood for surround... $7
Ya know I should probably talk about the elephant in the room for those of you who paint or know how to paint. I will be the first to admit, the way I'm painting is not the norm. With patience, care for detail and some serious thought I've painted 8 cars now in garages including one in a hay barn .. on a windy day lol
box fan in the window (see pic) crack the man door and I have my draft.. not much but enough to keep it from rising and then falling on the car. If you noticed I painted everything separate. this allowed me to end my spray lines off the part being painted making any over spray go into air. with out good draft over spray kills a paint job done this way. when painting the car it self I started on one side and went around to the other very quickly so there was no corner that met a surface already painted for over spray. my draft was enough to clear the air before the paint dried allowing any that did settle back down just blended in.
There is plenty of fuzzies I get in my paint job... that's where some really good wet sanding comes in. sand it, clean it , prime it and sand, prime it and sand, paint it and wet sand, clear coat it and buff or wet sand depending on fuzzies. Guys I am self taught but IN MY OPINION you can paint a pretty good paint job if you wet sand wet sand wet sand.
I painted my 1994 Camaro one time after a few guys at work said I couldn't get a good paint job with a spray can.. I painted it with spray cans(7 of them lol), wet sanded it and clear coated and drove it to work. no one would believe me until I showed the pics of me doing it with the spray cans. again in my opinion it all comes down to wet sanding. I read an article about 14yrs ago on wet sanding and I've been sold ever since.
if you a painter and your calling bs... shut up its my car and no one else will see the flaws you see
just kidding
thanks
brian
ps, wet sanding also does a great job of knocking down orange peel as well.
I'm with you on the self painting, it works much better than people think. I painted several panels for my 968 in the garage, in silver (metallic) and then clear coat. Worked great, very good match to the original, nobody ever noticed. Congrats on taking this step yourself.
Thanks for the info -I think your technique ,attention to detail and a good gun proves it can be done .Now a real challenge would be a harbor freight knock off gun .I bet you could pull it off .
UGH. I actually change my request - would you be willing to teach me about painting, or point me toward some good learning materials? Fiberglass can wait.
This is the second car i've painted with that gun. the first one was the silver boxster, pic below. all the other cars i used the walmart cambpell hausfeild gun...$39 lol last summer when i did the boxster paintjob the guy at the parts store convinced me to pull the trigger on a real gun.. pull the trigger.. get it.. nevermind lol so i bought and wow .. ya its hard to paint bad with that gun.
thank you. this post will have tons of pics
always willing to help out fellow car enthusiast
my garage is always open lol
ok so all the pics for this post and the next are from today. i'm leaving town for work for a few days tomorrow after church and wont get to work on the car for a bit so i thought i'd update one last time since i had a really good day.
I woke and finished welding the exhaust since i just had it tack welded. then pulled off the upper control arms from the rear and a few other things i wanted sand blasted, took apart the exhaust system and headed to my brothers where all my bigger tools are... i gave them all to him
my last house had a pole barn/man cave and this house has no room so he know has some of my stuff.
also started on redoing the exhaust tips today.. that means i cut them up lol. when i got home i painted the exhaust, put on the front drivers fender, the plastic gaurd in front of the door, the gas fill hose, the exhaust, painted my hinges for the front and rear hoods, mounted the spoiler.. and drink a cold sprite (super sore throat and cough
I took a pic of the paint i used for the exhaust incase any of you want to try it in the future. VHT is the best in my book, super tuff, looks great and doesnt fade with heat like some of them do. How am i going to get it to stick to stainless you ask... i sand blasted it lol hopefully the roughness of the surface will being enough to keep it sticking.. if not.... it will. looks like a brand new system.
the pic of the orange package is the christmas trees i used to fasten the plastic piece in front of the door since i ruined the factory ones getting them off. but i think these look better anyway.
i took some pics of spots where you can see the black with green paint so you can see the contrast... i love it. ok its late for me and i'm just rambling.
ok guys.. I need help.. please someone help.
I am calling everywhere trying to get rims and tires and just about everyone is giving me different answers on offsets and spacing and the size of the moon during an eclipse
can someone who is following this thread do some leg work for me? I feel like a dupa for asking but I'm on week two now with no results. this is a 1999 carrara coupe. I measured the outer surface of the ROTOR to the OUTER fender well and I get 4.25 inches. so with the stock fitment of the inner wheel well, does anyone have a concrete answer on what spacing I need to go with. I would like to put a tire under there that is at a minimum of 305 wide back there. I'd rather be like a 315 or 325 but I'm getting less and less picky as I get frustrated with it. if you know of a wheel on ebay or somewhere else.. I'm ready to buy I just cant get a tire company to give me a direct answer. I want a rim that shows the calipers. perferrably an 18' front and 19 rear.. again I'm not picky lol
thanks
It's going to be tough to help you with this because you've modified the fenders, so factory wheel specs aren't going to cut it. Also, if you're measuring with the car in the air, your measurements won't work since the suspension arcs when it compresses.
I recommend putting the factory wheels back on, setting it on the ground, and then measuring from the edge of the factory wheels to find out how much wider you can go and/or how much less offset you will need. Experimenting with some wheel spacers or even washers would be a good idea.
It appears you more or less made the rears equal to a widebody car, so my initial recommendation would be something along the lines of a 19x11 et30. In the front, something like 19x8.5 et40 is good.
Thank you. its been a journey lol
factory wheels are sold and gone. I know I added concretely 1.75 inches per side with it compressed. which that being said would the 19x11 et30 work? also.. forgive me but could you/someone explain the terminology for this "et"=, back space, font space, pos and neg offset. they sound straight forward but I find a chart on one website that says one thing and another on a different website.
Thank you capt obvious..*says a group of nerdy children as you fly away in a cheap b movie with bad cgi lololol
I run a 19x11 et52 rear on a stock lowered NB with no fender rolling. So 19x11 et 30 would work, but you may want to go even lower if you truly added 1.75 of clearance.
by lower, you mean as in 25 or 20 as far as that et thing right? victor has them as low as 25 on ebay. those ones in the link above I just posted would probably require a small spacer correct?
Find the stock wheel size from:
http://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/inf..._chart/porsche
Input it into :
https://www.willtheyfit.com/
Only you know how much wider/farther out you can go. For example, if you made the fender lip 1 inch farther out, then the outer edge of the tire should be 25mm farther out. The visualization will also show you how much the tire/rim will sit relative to the stock tires.
Maybe start with the stock GT3 wheel sizes and adjust the wheel offset (that "et" number) until you get the right fit.
https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.ph...=12&offset2=48
I have taken the liberty of doing up an example going from 295/30R18 (GT3 size) to 305/30R19 size, assuming you have about an inch to play with.
Now, I know a 25.9 diameter tire fits...but a 26.2? Only you know for sure...
According to "will it fit":
"Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is
18.7mm further away from the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out
31.4mm more than before."
A spacer will only push it out farther.
If your new fenders can handle a 26.2 diameter tire that is 31.4mm farther out than stock, these wheels might be a good option, but not with a spacer...
A safe bet would be to find some wheels with stock 996 turbo/C4S measurements, and then add spacers. But that would mean 18 inch tires.
"et" is the offset of the wheel in millimeters from the centerline of the wheel. So an et30 wheel has the mounting face offset 30mm towards the outside edge of the wheel from the centerline. A wheel with a negative et has the wheel mounting surface inset towards the inside of the wheel.
Unless you're planning to go the custom wheel route, I would purchase wheels for a widebody car and then add spacers as needed.
The CCW's you found look like a good fit. They will poke 20mm more than my current setup. You still might need a spacer to make it flush if you truly extended your fender clearance by 1.75" though. You basically need to run really aggressive turbo offsets.
Below is the graphic of my current vs your proposed.
can't wait to see it! I said it before but your abilities are impressive. What part of the world are you in, I would love to see the car in person.
BTW...what I would do is use the mounting guides that aid in aligning wheels when you mount them....Use two and then stack spacers on the guides along with the stock wheel and see how may spacers you need to add to make the wheel line up and then calculate the effective offset.
thanks for the tip
I installed those spark plug tubes. i'll post that along with the pics in a day or two showing how i did it. went very well... huge thank you lowpue
Hey guys.. and girls, so lots of pics and updates since last. instead of trying to explain everything I'll just post up the pics and give a quick summary.
new parts, headlights, elephant racing "sport" bushings, HSD coil-overs, front and rear sway bar bushings, second set of EPS trailing arms, new rims and tires I purchased off ebay(CCW rims). new windshield, and finally... Wait for it... EXHAUST REVVING VIDEO !!!!!!!!!
the sound is poor but at the end I rev it three times. The last rev is a little over 4k rpms, cant wait to hear it down the road up around 6k rpms
also finally switched out those spark plug tubes that lowpue sent me. so I seen a video of a man using a boat plug to pull out the old plugs so I had one laying around and wrapped/taped some paper towel around it, cleaned the oil off the inside of the plugs and expanded the boat plug and viola... out came the old plugs. very simple to do. it honestly took about 20minute. figured since I was under there I'd paint the plug covers green.
ask questions if you have them since I wasn't very descriptive in this post this time... sorry, just to many pics to explain and ... I'm feeling lazy today lol
ps .. oh ya the guy in the red shirt working on my windshield.. so not happy. He gets there to put in new window and the windshield had a huge scratch right in the live of view on the drivers side. so right now my car has no windshield as I wait for them to get one
price for the install and windshield was something $437 if I remember right. Not to bad I thought.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqa0...ature=youtu.be
I just bought the same headlights. When I installed them, one of the lights wasn't making a good connection with the plug. Any fitment issues with yours? I do like how they look.
I know its out there a little bit but I think I'm keeping it kind of classy. I'm trying not to do anything to rice... but I still want that wow affect.
I have not plugged them in yet. I am a little worried about that though since my wires have been cut and taped back together, I'm going to see if I can find some newer/better condition connections on ebay or somewhere.
thanks
I am going to do/update a thread this weekend on installing my new headlights. I bought a spare set if the trays that the lights mount to and I am going to modify them.
hoping to have all the suspension on by the weekend and then I'm back to the painting of the doors and front bumper. getting close to being able to drive it again.
Excellent work! Thanks for taking the time to post your progress. Regarding your exhaust set-up, are those mini mufflers? Where did you purchase them? Also, did you fab up the headers yourself?
ebay, they are cheap and they sound great. the video does not do it justice. I wanted something with a quicker pop more like a higher revving motor and from what I read, shorter and smaller gets you "closer" to that with out that type of motor. but just having two of them I think would have been to loud, so I went with four. if you could hear it in person... it sounds sooo good lol this is a link to them. I have about $360 in the exhaust
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Muf...!US!-1&vxp=mtr
vs buying this set
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FABSPEED-SPORT-PERFORMANCE-PACKAGE-fits-1999-2005-PORSCHE-996-GT2/323129190429?fits=Make%3APorsche&epid=2142797304&hash=item4b3c00281d:g:d OQAAOSwPc9Wv2cf&vxp=mtr
the
headers came with the car. ebay has some pretty cheap headers as well though.
That fitment on the rear wheel looks great.
As an aside, I have been toying with the idea of side splitters. As you have mad fabrication skills, what do you think it would take to make some up?
no I have not and to be honest... I'm a little worried. The tires were sold as 325/25/19 with a 36mm offset.. they are not as advertised. The tire is a 315/25/19 and I'm not sure the offset is what was said either. That tire is extremely close to the fender and I was thinking I would be adding a 1/2" spacer. So I might be taking them to work with me and seeing if I can have a machinist take off a quarter from the mounting surface. I should be able to lower it by this weekend. I have the pass side suspension done and working on the drivers side tonight.
what do you mean by splitters? something like the pics attached? If so .... lets do it lol !!! Just take your time and watch some youtube vids on how to make molds, and pop parts etc. I surely don't claim to be an expert but anyone is always welcome to call me and I will do my best to help. its all about having fun
I
Yeah, that's what I'm talk'n about.
I was looking at something like a 3/16 ABS sheet, shape it a little. My worry is that it might be a fine line between side splitters and running boards.
I think it could be done with class and look good. you have that body bond underneath that turns down and gives you a great anchor point and you can easily dictate how far out they stick as you can just cut more off if you don't like how far it sticks out. the turn up on the splitter it self.. simple sheet metal bender from harbor freight and you can cut the design as you want. once you cut it roughly with a jig saw or something just fine tune it with a die grinder or hand file. if your artsy with a pencle than you can put dykum or blue die on the sheet metal and draw a design for the turn up so its unique or what ever and then file to your drawn line, make your bend and attach. Make templates, mass produce and you have an amazon business to boot lol
Hey guys, nothing to exciting today. Most of the stuff I've been doing is small check list stuff that isn't to excited. Since last post I have finished putting on the suspension, put on the driver side front fender, did some painting on the underside and finally have the rear tires on there.
So I've seen the "one man brake kit" for years but always blew it off as a cheap scam tool that someone is making a fortune off of selling them for $7 each... so ya I bought one lol and wow I was able to bleed all four brakes in about 35 minutes. Super crazy easy and quicker than having my wife pump the brakes 50 times while I loosen the bleed screw.
oh almost forgot.. the seats came in and I set them in the car so see how they look. I like them, the green stitching looks great and they fit in there quite well
pics.
brake kit thingy
view from the rear of the rear tires mounted.. so fat lol
front fender
seats
Hey everybody, again nothing to big but thought I'd show some pics of the front bumper like I did the rear to show the imperfections with duraflex. That's not a slam on them just hope anyone who buys them knows what there getting into. so below is pics of the pits, cracks and surfaces that looked messy. I'm finally working on the front bumper, really trying to get this done within the next two weeks so I can make it to our church's fathers day car show
also below is the windshield that finally got put in along with the hood I put back on last night after the glass guy left.
thanks
Hey guys, well another quick update. kinda feel like these latest updates are kind of a waist for everyone just because I'm down to a lot of the little stuff that's not all that interesting .. but keeping with the theme of documenting all this. so sorry if I'm boring anyone
so last night I attached the bumper and worked on getting everything fitted in. so in the pics you can see how much I had to cut out for the side markers. i'll have to refill the back side with glass and bondo now that placement is fitted. the pic with the wook block in it is the bottom where the bumper fall short on touching the mounting surface this was the same with the last bumper I bought for the boxster. the pics with the saw and aluminum in them is the top and bottom lip of the front bumper. they get in the way of the bumper being able to go rear ward enough to the mounting screws. The pic with the hood and bumper gap is so you can see the gap between the two. Before and after the bondo. This same gap was on the boxster bumper as well. it must be duraflexes mold. so what I did was put some tape ont he hood and some bondo on the bumper and closed the hood making an impression in the wet bondo. no I can clean it up a bit, sand the gap to look uniformed and hopefully it will end up looking good.
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Looks awesome! I love the pace! I can't imagine how many hours you have in this.....you could of easily gutted your kitchen, replaced the flooring including the sub floor down to the joists, rebuilt everything and probably still have less hours!
Thanks
me to lol
umm actually I did that as well lol we are remodeling our house since the last year and I don't believe in paying people to work on my homes when I can do the work myself. I'm actually surprised this build has gone as fast as it has (roughly 5months) with all the other stuff we have going on. life is busy... just gotta make things happen I guess.
Thanks for the encouragement guys.. much appreciated.
Don't tell me this....As I have been looking forward to every update as well....You have in my mind achieved god like status compared to my own capabilities...now that I know you are remodeling your house well...you have made me feel like an irrelevant useless bum around my own home.
Not only that, but I am getting depressed ahead of time, knowing the project will be done soon and I will have nothing to look forward to on RL.
lol to funny.
Well fear not cuz the thread will only slow down for a couple months when the body is finished and then I will come back and start the engine swap
it will be epic
I will also be doing the interior along with the engine.
Hey guy, nothing to important but I feel bad if I go longer than a week without posting a pic lol
Made the seat tracks for the new seats. Mounted them last night and they fit and look .. AWESOME!!!.. in my humble opinion
Started tearing apart the door panels... that bites. Those things are on there really good.
Lastly I dropped of my rear seats to be reupholstered. They weren't in bad shape but I want green stitching so there getting new leather and green thread. They will also be doing the headliner in a few weeks which will also be black with green stitching but I'm not sure what material I want to use yet.
I'm trying not to get to far into the interior until next winter but these things just made sense to do now.
Hoping to do the bit of painting within the next few days and then its put it all back together.
down to the home stretch of this phase of the project. been busy lately but managed to finish up the sanding on the bumper and doors. Threw some paint on last night and will wet sand and clear coat tonight.
..... um .. i dont know lol i taped it off and it seemed to work ok
ok so lots of pics to share tonight. the exterior is mostly done other than some cleaning up and small odds and ends. which i will update when i get more done. i will also update when i get the interior all back together sense i've done a few custom things in there as well.
I love it! However I don't think your wheel style is right for your build. I would go with a flatter silver, something concave in 19". Maybe non-matching color for the brakes? Congrats on getting it to this point!
With that setup you have to get some coilovers and get the right height perfect. Can't wait to see what's next for you.
the rims are going to get powder coated. I did go with coil overs( HSD ) i am going to look into lowering it... iv never lowered a car so i am going to ask the wheel shop tomorrow on what needs to be done.
thanks
Thanks
Looking good! With the coilovers, you should be able to get the stance just right. Take it to a good suspension shop and have it setup and corner balanced... Great job. All you need to do now is get custom license plates :KERMIT:
Super impressive work man. I love the subtlety of it all. Sure, there's nothing subtle about that car, but to those outside of the know, they would think it's stock (save maybe the wheels). The roof scoop, front and rear bumpers, side skirts all look well designed, constructed and fitted. Top work and can't wait to see more.
And given it's your build, far it be it for me to make suggestions, but i do hope you powdercoat the wheels black w/ a green time attack as i suggested about 13 pages ago, lol. That would really show off the rotor/caliper and tie together the blacked out look of the headlights and door mirror trim. This thing looks like a 996 GT3 RS (had they made one), so black wheels certainly fit the bill.
Wow almost 6 months to the day since your first post and look at the car today. Awesome work! I imagine you're quite proud. Most build threads like this make it a few pages and then the builder disappears. Thanks for taking us all along for the ride!
wow guys thank you for the remarks. I love car forums and this thread has been the most positive I have experienced over the years. ver... very appreciated. sorry for the delayed response. I always try to reply to every comment so here goes lol
I encourage everyone I talk to about cars to do it as well. its just patience.
ya I'm hoping to take it tonight and if not Saturday. I did drive it down the road and wow!!!! I mean WOW!!!! to those who have swapped out your 20yr old suspension.. it is unreal how it feels. between the sport bushings and coilovers it truly does feel like a go kart.
thank you. The wing has grown on me as I was not a fan in the beginning but now with the wide body from the rear... lets just say I'm pinching that Porsche tail when the wife is not looking lolol
this thread is going to slow down but only for a few months. I do still have some updates when I get done with some smaller stuff and I should be getting my re-upholstered rear seats this week. but keep an eye out for it cuz the next phase is going to be epic
thank you sir
it helps when you set up a cot in the garage and sleep next to the project lol
thank you. and yes the wheels are 100% getting redone. I'm going to slow down and drive it for the summer and pick up again in the fall.
hmm.. I have thought about blacking out the roof scoop.. i'll see how that evolves.
ya that has been probably my biggest pat on the back. I've painted and modded a hand full of cars but making the molds, parts and then all the extra stuff I did... I cant believe I got it done this quick. I do wish I would have had my pole barn and better lighting though as I think I would have went a little slower and did a little better job.
when are we going to go for a cruise
Thank you, the comments mean a ton to me.
lowpue has an eye
lol thank you. I will say, the paint does absolutely look better in person. that green is just beautiful and the pearl... its just pure sexy lol
don't leave yet guys there will be a few more updates before I vacation on it for a few months. Also like Strangelove mentioned guys disappearing... I have the parts already for the motor swap so it is happening and the motor being swapped .. ya its gonna be interesting lol but it will also be almost 500hp so hopefully that will be my saving grace for the Porsche gods lol its not an ls and it is a 6 cylinder engine
cool car, thanks
lol no
so yesterday I took it in to get the alignment done and then took it for a drive afterwards where I was able to get it into the higher rpms. I don't know how to get you guys a sound clip to justify the new exhaust. it sounds amazing, like a crotch rocket but the video really dampens it done. drone isn't to bad and when cruising it quiets down nicely but when you give it gas..
check out the video link below and turn up the volume.. hope it kind of gives you an idea on how it sounds.
also before I went to the alignment shop I thought I'd check the airfilter box. Wow, I need to get my steel mesh over those air vents on the rear deck lid.
hoping to go get my apr tune tomorrow after work. The check engine light came on which I'm assuming is from the o2 sensors being removed. I guess the tune I paid for from one of the sponsors on here didn't work...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHiy...ature=youtu.be
thanks guys.
like I mentioned.. the video doesn't do it justice. It sounds so good and I got a ton of thumbs up last night driving it home from the shop.
I agree but it was late and the guy doing the alignment was a younger guy and this was his first Porsche alignment and I just figured I'd wait till have time to take it to someone with more experience.
Tomorrow at 3:00pm I have an appointment at "steve European automotive" for an apr tune. I know theirs not much to gain with these tunes but I deleted the o2 sensors so it will help my set up.. I think lol
So im here at steves waiting for them to do the tune and thought id show you guys this place... kinda. They dont want me wondering the lot lol. This place is top notch, Ferraris, porsches, audis etc. ery cool place.
So talking to there tune guy, he says " you should throw some turbos on this thing" i thought we couldnt turbo these set ups? I thought you could turbo anything but read a thread on here where pretty much the consensus was no for our 3.4's. I know theirs the supercharger kits offered but no turbo.
I mentioned that to the guy and he smirked and said "yes you can"
what am i missing?!?
You can turbo it but I have only seen a few setups online there are no kits available it would need to be custom. People worry about the engine strength on these is the main concern. Most of the supercharger setups run about 400 whp without issue. The engine deaths seems to be from catastrphic failures or bore scoring which would happen either way.
Well i saved $1200 lol they couldnt do the tune
apr doesnt tune my year ecu even though the website says they can. They could have done it but they wanted me To leave it with them so they could do a
custom tune. They wanted to keep it for about two weeks so they could
log road time on it ... ya ill just drive it like it is. They did say they could do a much better tune than apr though. I want to drive it and enjoy it. With possibly swapping out the motor at the end of summer, doesnt make sense to leave it with them for two more
weeks.
Turbo... its got me thinking. I have two gt35 turbos in storage brand new in the box ... hmm lol
Ahh you must have a 1999 like me its a different ecu that the cable throttle cars use. Oh nice a single gt35 would be perfect that would be enough turbo for 500whp on pump gas and 600whp on e85 or race gas.I will post a pic of what a single setup looks like for reference.
What motor were you swapping to?
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i assume you were talking with Stephen and Jordan? i am taking mine there on tuesday so i am curious about this custom tuning they mentioned to you
sucks that you couldnt get a tune
... I'm bored lol
So its been about two weeks I think that I have been driving the car. Amazed at how many people are taking pictures and videos of it as I drive by. People coming up to me and asking about it and complimenting me on it... feels pretty good. I've also had it in two car shows and had a ton of people take selfies with it lolol I had one guy who was parked next to me go crazy on it, even laid on the ground to look underneath and was just amazed and I'm looking over at his $80K prostreet 68 Camaro thinking "dude... your car blows mine away" lol fun stuff
So as you guys know these cars are amazing to drive but they just don't have a lot of get up and go. I'm not one of those who thinks there slow but definitely wish it was faster. I was going to wait a little bit before I started the motor but I figured I could start doing the engine build side of it now and figured I'd share
I'm not going to go gang busters and do it fast but I thought through out the summer I could get the motor completed to where this fall I can pretty much be to the point of just having to drop the Porsche engine, make my headers, motor mounts and figure out the electrical and be done. so hopefully it will be down only during the snow months.
The bottom end is new with dished hypereratic pistons and I'm currently working on porting and polishing the heads. The pics of the heads are just the start, I'm going to take my time on these and try to make them perfecto
going to order my go fast parts within the next couple of weeks.
This set up WILL have a minimum of 350hp to the wheels.... GARUANTEED. I have built this motor a couple times before and this one will be the first one I add an intercooler to and a 50 shot of nos and yes very very streetable. I'm hoping to have about 400hp to the wheels.
My kryptonite will be the electrical... please gurus be willing to help me when I get to that point
I will post up the cost of this as well. It will be under $5,000 for this engine swap.
Stay tuned
What motor is it? LS (1/2/3/) ? I think the Renegade conversion kit alone (without the "bells and whistles") will run you over $8k... Are you planning on using something else? How do you get to the $5k # ?
No its not an LS motor
bahahaha lol
so far $ spent is
$350 for motor from junk yard
$450 for rebuild of bottom end. would have only been $160 but there was a mistake made at the machine shop that they made me pay for
$1700 for engine/transmission adaptor kit. going forward I can make this kit my self now. I am a metrologist(I work in microns) and was able to make the blue prints off the one I have using my cmm
I will make my own mounts, headers and electrical. The go fast parts will run me ... about $2200 and that's it. I'm sure there will be some tid bits that will bring it up a little, but for the most part I should make that $5k mark. As far as what I will need to modify for fitment in the engine bay.. I have no idea yet as this motor has never been swapped into a Porsche. I've looked everywhere and I cant find one... if you do, don't burst my bubble lol
I have built a couple of these motor already and they are stout, durable and great engines.
My exhaust should sound great with it as well. I'm hoping I don't get 75% into this build and realize it cant be done for some reason
If this could be in your Porsche for a fraction of something like a raby engine... why not lol don't get me wrong, no disrespect towards Jake. I'm a HUGE fan of what he does but for someone like me... I cant afford half a years salary for one of those motors.
this is what I'm building and I have one of those already storage and its about 420bhp.
You Tube
I ramble to much.. sorry guys lol
Crazy project you're doing! I love the car, especially the green!
Since you are doing an engine swap, you should join the Facebook group "Swapped Porsches", that is going to be the best place to help you with the wiring.
Love the engine swap! They are very reliable and stout! A nice simple push rod v-6 I believe that is one of the largest production engines to date and has been voted 10 best engines of all time.
yup, French designed in the early 90's and has been a proven platform. mine is a series 2 which is the best imo. the series 3 came with a bit more hp but a simple mod to the supercharger gets you comparable to the series 3. plus very easy to program, unlike my dreaded 1999 cable throttle body setup on the Porsche motor. also... I can blow this motor over and over and will always be able to go to the junk yard and get another for pennies. I'm sure there will be some headaches ahead of me for this swap as I have no guideline from someone else to follow but... I think it will be worth. that video above ... gotta respect this set up
lol i'll post a pic of the fiero I have next time I'm over at storage, its getting a wide body and custom body being made for it as well. but the motor is done and its sick.
I know right !! lol
Bodywork, custom fab, engine work, all in a home garage and by yourself! Been a lot of great build threads on here, but I can�t remember one as enjoying to follow as this.
I love you man!! lolol
thank you sir. I have to admit... I have had a great time sharing this build on here. I have shared builds of other cars on other forums related to that car over the years and there is always some that trash it and give me beef forgetting that at the end of the day... its just a car and its... my car lolol so I truly appreciate how positive you have all been. I actually get excited to make my posts on here... thank you!!!
no, but that one mirrors the build I'm doing. the fiero I have is about 400bhp to 420bhp. Its not road ready yet, but I'll post up some pics of the engine so you guys can get a good look at them up close.
oh boy this is going to be crazy
are you putting a turbo on it to
I would love to offer to help but I haven't found the time to even work on my own yet LOL now that I found out that i can have the ECU tuned locally its motivated me a little to get moving on my supercharger install
... but not enough to start it yet haha
purchased a motorcycle a few months back so that has been keeping me occupied
really... well thats cool.
123k, no oil leaks(thanks to lupue and the spark plug tubes) ice cold a/c, runs great with no issues ... if anyone is interested lol
no turbo, just the supercharger. With turbo and aluminum heads these motors can achieve 500+hp but i want to keep it dependable and not have to replace rods and stuff
enjoy that bike but dont forget our cruises lol you and scooby need to hear my exhaust now
plus i have a couple more people who want to join us.
thank you. Ya i am to lol this will be very interesting to see how it turns out. In my mind if this works... sickest 996 porsche on the planet lolol well at least in my town lol with the looks plus the speed.. it will be my dream car.
"I have no idea yet as this motor has never been swapped into a Porsche. I've looked everywhere and I cant find one... if you do, don't burst my bubble lol "
No, I have no idea - my questions were just that (questions, no answers)... It looks like you've got plan! If it follows the same route as your body work I'm sure you'll be successful! Good luck
Nothing special, just a quick update. I picked up my rear seats the other day from the upholstery shop.... came out pretty decent I thought.
I also have one head completely ported bowls, intake, and exhaust and working on the other now. I'm hogging them out as much I can... I want this motor to flow and have neck snapping throttle response. After that I will polish them up and send them off to the machine shop for a valve job and re-assembly with all the new valves, springs, rockers, etc. Cant wait to see the motor all done and painted up to match the car
In a week or so I'll post up pics of the interior. I ordered some fun stuff for it and excited to see it all put back together. its hard to restrain going all out with the color, once you get a color on there and start changing things inside its so easy to say "that would look good green, and that also, and oh ya that to" lol so I'm really trying to no go over the top and just keep the green as an accent and not the main color for the interior.
thanks
Two valves? Is this a truck engine you are putting in there? ROCKERS? Is this going to be some steam-punk 996?
Seriously though. You are living the dream.
This motor wont disappoint
This is my parts list I'm ordering this week... look at that price tag vs a Porsche engine build. this car is going to be a beast.
lol if i was, i was the guy who reappeared missing a few inches cuz i'm only 5,6 lol
come this direction
if you ever want to talk on the phone let me know. this motor has many options. there is aluminum heads as well and turbo set ups. these motor can pump out huge hp if your willing to spend the money. like i mentioned, i have a fiero with a motor very close to what i'm doing here in it.... and the price !!! this vs the ls swap or built 996 motor
these are the 3 big hitters for this motor.
zzp performance
3800 performance
intense racing
those 3 websites should convince you. the fiero we built should run mid 10's. on youtube you can find a man named "darkhorizon" i met him about 14yrs ago when he first started messing with these motors. the video you find on youtube will show hime going 10 flat about 3 miles from me at the lapeer drag way here in michigan.
I know lol
so those who are cringing and thinking this wont happen... pic below lol
iv had this kit for about three years waiting for an opportunity to use it
bahahaha lol
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Brian;
I'm about to refinish my calipers. I assume that those are the old piston seals and you rebuilt the calipers after refinishing them? They look amazing. I'm using a paint remover that attacks powder coating finishes, and then will bead blast them.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob, I have rebuilt chevy calipers before but I don't want to mislead anyone here.. I did not rebuild the calipers. just blasted them and painted them. I thought about it but I was a little worried about tearing into them as I have never worked on calipers other than American cars... ya probably stupid reason but I pick my battles wisely and if I'm not confident I will succeed at something I want to attempt .. I usually don't attempt it lol
I did take a huge amount of time to strip them down, tape them off ... I mean really tape them off lol and did my best to protect them before I blasted them. also, I had never clear coated calipers before. I usually just painted them up.. I've been missing out on ease of cleaning lol when I wash the car all I have to do is spray them and the brake dust washes right off. so much easier to keep clean.
long response ... sorry.
How did you keep the blasting from invading the brake piston seals? I am going to rebuild my calipers; they don't need it, but being that I have everything off the car and I'm going to bead blast them, I figure why not leave the old pieces in place...strip and blast the calipers...and then paint them before doing the rebuild.
Love long responses, btw! Thanks, Brian!
Bob
good question. I'm a believer in lacquer thinner LOL I wash them down very good. Since thinner dries very fast i just wipe it off quickly and then I use duct tape for the seals. Since I wasn't worried about painting the inside of the caliper for visual I didn't sandblast the inside. Just at the top of the out side of the calipers and the outside. I've done this quite a few times in the past and I've never had a leak so far
sorry for the bad grammar I'm using Surrey outside in the pool with my son
happy Sunday forum. so I'll try not to ramble but have a few updates to share. I haven't been doing too much with the car other than driving it and a few minor things like putting the new seat belts in, headliner back in and rear seats back in. for the most part, I've been cruising Woodward on the weekends with my wife and son and having a blast !! also just gathering parts for the 2nd phase for this car.
so pictures below pretty much show all the parts that have been coming in. I've finished all my porting for the heads so I need to drop them off at the machine shop and get my valves redone. instead of porting my supercharger and lower intake ... I just ordered a new set(pics) that was already done ... I'm to stinkin busy lol all my go fast parts have come in for the motor except my nitrous kit but I can start assembling the engine now. found some cool green horns I'm going to put on each side of the intercooler(pics) replacing my Memphis subwoofers with alpines(3000-watt peak each) my new shift boot with green stitching and also my short shift kit came as well. I'm planning on doing the center console, shift boot, and shifter this week. there is some broken stuff on the console I want to fix and peel off the fake carbon fiber stickers the previous owner put on.
i'll post up some more pics in the next few weeks to show you guys the rest of the stuff I have not put on yet but just thought I'd let everyone know. it's still going
lowpue the lambo pic...
that guy was really cool. told me that car ran 10.53 in the quarter stock... hes since put on a turbo kit and is running 1000+hp really nice car/guy and had a fun time. one guy swore the body work done to my porsche was a tech art kit cuz it looked to good to be done in a garage lol
Your car looks awesome next to the lambo….here is a picture from today at the MI Car Show with my 996 next to my Lambo (Lemon/Lime) ...love both cars but the 996 with my special sauce edges out the Italian.
I can rattle off from memory what I'm generally all in for.
car-$15,700
wheels/tires-$2500 (was refunded $300 for road rash on them after I received them)
frnt bmpr-$800
rr bmpr-$620
suspension-$1500
bushing-$400
trailing arms-$400
exhaust-$360
paint-$300
frt seats-$340
rr seats-$400 (reupholstered)
seat belts-$80
steering wheel-$120
shift boot-$120
short shifter-$120
horns-$100
engine-$350
machine work-$600
go fast parts-$3500
Total so far =28,310
only thing left to buy which is a maybe is the nitrous kit but I'm still thinking on what kind of kit I want to go with. the 996 tt is 420hp correct and looks like still selling for low to mid $30's... I should have that beat $ wise and hp. Not saying my car will be better than a 996tt all around but I'm pretty happy with this car so far and I wont fear being side by side with one at a stop light with $500 up for the win
lol . Plus I should get a few bucks out of my motor when I pull it if it sells. not sure the specs and $ for a 997tt
I still want a lambo though lolol its on our list to get ... hopefully within the next two years.
My work is having a car show today... people choice for best car. If I don't win... I quit !!! lolol ok not really.
Tomorrow is woodward dream cruise, anyone plan on being there?
Yea, definitely a tough crowd if you can�t pull off the win here. Haha. Should be easy, but you this might be the domestic crowd. Everyone should be able to appreciate the 911 tho. You definitely fit in better with the exotics class :-p
Hey tt123....just catching up on your thread....if you are looking for a turbo engine....I saw a bunch of 996/997 turbo engines at Norspec Dismantling last time I was there....you should call them to source and engine...they are reasonable and others on RL have used them as well.
BTW...you need to post better pictures of your car where we can see it...
Well I work in an r&d facility so a huge part of the company is people from European countries.. I might have a shot lol
I'll post up some good pics later when I take some on the lawn.
The turbo engine would be awesome but to be honest... I have no confidence in messing with the electrical of the Porsche. I cant find any good stories about figuring it out and I'm not the most electronically equipped individual. the motor I'm building now already has a stand alone wiring harness for it so that.. I can handle lol. but I did buy another toy the other day, another supercharged fiero for my wife and I might slap that motor I'm building for the Porsche in it... I don't know.. I change my mind daily on just about everything lol
Brian
me to!!! sorry guys been very busy working on the house. laying a cement deck around the pool with a cement mixer I picked up off craigslist two bags at a time lol yes I'm to cheap to pay the $20k for a company to put it inn. laid a cement pad for a hot tub we just bought, remolding the interior of our house..its just never ending
but I'm always willing to make time to go for a cruise if anyone is ever in the area
lol
plans have not changed though and I have chipped away at building the motor. had a little set back with the heads when I took them to get the valves done, they found cracks so all that time spent on porting was for nothing. so had to buy a new set of heads and spent $700 having them cleaned up and valve job done to them and I'm currently porting these ones now. I've also started sandblasting and cleaning up parts off the old motor for rebuild. Once the cold sets in here in Michigan, i'll be hitting it harder. should be a relatively quick swap since its not even close to all the work I did to the body.
also... so this weekend I was out cruising with my brother who has a scary fast bmw z4(He's smoking hellcats.. no lie) and we were tearing it up pretty hard on the back country roads around me and I noticed when I was shifting into second that it felt like it was slipping before it would catch then bog down a little bit as it grabbed. I'm thinking my clutch is about to go out, would you guys agree? it was changed at 80k and the car now has 124k
Brian
Hey guys, so I've put the car up for the winter. I actually did it a few weeks ago which bums me out because it was to early to park it but my clutch is to worn so no point in keeping out. I took it to my brothers house and gave it a major detailing along with a nice buff and wax job, check out the shine of that paint
I'm quite proud of my garage paint job. That BMW next to it had a paint job and my brother paid $10K for it... mine costs about $300 lol
although that BMW is so scary fast that I don't dare play with him when we are out cruising... whatever, mine looks better lolol
Not sure if I'm going to have time to do the engine swap this winter as I am just so stinkin busy. Kitchen flooded a couple weeks ago and I'm redoing that, painting(sapphire metallic blue) and modding up that 3.8sc fiero for my wife so she has something fun to drive next summer, I took on painting someone else's Porsche 924 track car this winter for some extra car cash
and I have all the extras I wanted to do to my Porsche.
So I ordered a lightweight crank pulley, shark works lightweight fly wheel kit and new clutch, new poly trans mount bushing, new high flow air filter that I'm going to make a better cold air intake for so it doesn't cross over the motor, I also took off my wheels to get them refinished in black and candy green. oh and took out that huge heavy speaker box out of the back to make a new one out of fiberglass so its lighter. I'm sure there will be more stuff as I tear into it this winter.
Any maintenance you guys would suggest for this winter while I'm under the car and the trans is out? motor mounts, water pump etc. I've heard people rattle off things I should do when I first got the car but I don't remember lol motor has 126k on it.
Thanks
Brian
oh ya..... I'm also going to get the car lowered before I put it back on the road with a better alignment. blew through my rear tires in one summer so that alignment I did at the beginning of the rear was for squat
Fill and shape... like a hole on a contoured surface? I've tried bonding to abs a bunch of times... never to succeed for a length of time. but I have learned but not tried yet that 3M does make a glue for ABS and the reviews I've read on it were all VERY good. so if I was doing something like that which I might on a boxster wide body bumper I made a couple years and bonded it with just resin. I would do a lap joint with the glue in the middle and use "liquid plastic" for the seam and a good file to smooth it out. I've done plenty of SMALL dings over plastic with bondo and haven't had any issues once the paint goes over and holds it in place. so not sure how big of an area your talking about. Theirs ways to do it now just have to find the right product, pretty sure 3M has it.
hope that was what you were asking lol
Nothing crazy cool or exciting to post but I'm bored and thought I'd share what I've been up to with the Porsche and other projects I have going on in the garage.
I wasn't going to post pics or info on the speaker box but ..... why not. someone might want the info for there car.
So the system in my car that came with the car was/is amazing... I mean sick... disgustingly delicious to the ears. I say that as someone who used to build systems all the time for myself and friends in my younger years. the only thing I didn't like with it was the weight of the sub box. so I took it out and I'm making a new one out of fiberglass. I'm also swapping out the Memphis subs(800 watts each) for some alpine (3000 watts each)
Attached is the pics as of last night.
also started sanding and prepping another Porsche for a black paint job, think I mentioned it up in the thread somewhere. really cool turbo 924 track car.
Still putsing around with that fiero I picked up over the summer. I've been buying some fun stuff for the 911 as well but i'll wait to update on all that till I get a little deeper into and have some pics.
Thanks
Brian
Going "Lightweight" with fiberglass is going to pose problems with resonance. How do you plan to make the enclosure "stiff" without adding weight (which was clearly your problem with the MDF enclosure)...?
Dude!!! ....don't throw logic my way and force me to come up with some fake smart response lolololol I'm planning on my walls being about 1/4 thick and probably do the cotton liner inside the box. If its a waste of time... no worries, i'll just put the old box back in(so stinking heavy). its fill work in my garage while I paint the other Porsche. I have made similar boxes in the past and they seemed to do just fine. between the memphys crossovers on each speaker, the higher quality subs and a pretty nice head unit... i'll do my best to tune it all in and if not.. like mentioned, no worries. I was also considering dymo mat in the rear area of the Porsche, anyone do this, any thoughts on your results.
Ive personally found that fiberglass can work fine if you properly gusset the interior, but that can make for some funky reflections inside the box - acoustics engineers suggest limiting 90 degree angles inside the box using 88 degree, 92 degree etc intersections. I also suggest lining the inside with dynamat or something similar, although this will add to the weight.
Great thread
hey guys hope these pics of building a speaker box isn't to boring for those who have been following. like mentioned, its just some fill work while i work on some other projects and wait for more parts to come in for the porsche. had to order some more fiberglass so as soon as that gets here i'll show some better pics of this.
thanks
Brian
Hello forum, been a while. Hope everyone had a great Christmas/holiday. I have been tinkering with my car here and there and buying a few things.
I have not done anything with my motor swap as I'm pretty sure I'm going to push it off till next year if I do it. I'm just to busy right now and I have had a few porsches come my way to do work on for others, so that's been taking up a little of my free time as well.
But what I have done so far....
1st pic- is how the Porsche sits as of Saturday. lifted up the rear to take out the trans for the new clutch and light weight flywheel along with poly trans mounts. I'll replace worn out stuff as I find it and was looking into limited slip diff option.. any thoughts?
2nd pic-... my dirty engine bay as I pull it apart for some parts install.
3rd & 4th pic- My exhaust!!! looks horrible
does anyone know if stainless can be powder coated? I have used the paint I used on that exhaust many time and have never had the paint burn off. Any ideas or thoughts on how to keep this exhaust looking nice?
Also going to port out the headers better while there off.
5th pic- just some new parts I have purchased. I don't have a pic yet but I also took my throttle body and ported it out some. just made it so there is a ramp to the flipper vs that 90% lip ... just trying to help everything flow
I'll expound on this later.
6th & 7th pic- so I have a check on the rear bumper that I figured I would fix since I had everything apart. don't fear the fiberglass bumpers, this crack has been there from when I first assembled it and I just never dealt with it till now. I ran a screw in to hard and cracked it.
8th pic- speaker is coming along nicely.
so breaking the crank pulley loose ... not fun. still working on that. any thoughts?
Thanks for reading everyone.
Bian
Just by nature of where the headers and other exhaust components are on these cars, they aren't going to stay nice looking. Your best bet would be to get them ceramic coated (some will debate an exterior coating is hard on the metal since it traps all the heat, but it should be fine on a non-turbo car), and if that is too expensive I'd sand blast them to improve adhesion and then paint them with a high temp paint.
I did sand blast them the first time which is why I'm surprised. but ya i'll look into ceramic coating.
thanks
good point.. I'll think about that as well
thanks
guys
I wouldn't wrap anything on the exhaust on these cars, you're asking for rust issues down the line. The whole exhaust system gets sprayed with water on these cars when you drive in the rain and exhaust wrap will soak up said water, and it will not necessarily evaporate from the heat.
Capt Obvious is right about wrapping headers. I hadn’t thought about water intrusion and the wicked hot tubes, or the hot spots caused at pulse restriction points (weld extrusions and bends). Guess a nice inside/outside ceramic job is better for durability. Plus, just looking at a couple of shops, no guarantee if the headers are wrapped.
If anyone could reply to this thread asap it would be greatly appreciated. I am over where im keeping the porsche stored and have a small issue I�ve taken the old crank pulley off and I am ready to install the new one but there is a boss protruding off the block and interfering with the new �torque solution� crank pulley does anybody know about this or am I doing something wrong?
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ya know... I'm not gay but i wont lie... right now i love you lolol
thank you so much, i was about to get frustrated and bang my head, and not so much now. Lol seriously thank you thank you thank you
No worries! Can’t have ya wasting a Saturday morning. I just spent couple hours yesterday fabbing a ground point under my dash, so totally understand staring at the problem.
I try not to get frustrated with my son around positive memories for him is what I want. so thank you again
going to make a post Monday on taking off the crank pulley
struggled last Saturday on how to get it off and tried a different way this morning literally took about 20 seconds
till then
So unto this crank pulley removal issue. I had read a few threads last weekend after I tried to break it loose and wasn't having much luck. being that my history with motors is usually chevy. needed some guidance. Anyway FOR ME since I had the exhaust off and the rear bumper off I attacked it from the bottom. I didn't have enough travel from the top with my breaker bar but underneath... plenty. My first attempt It came right off. The pics pretty much explain how I did this.
Just sharing for those who might be doing this.
Also installed the IPD plenum. Waiting for another sensor to come in to put the throttle body back on plus I have a little more polishing to do to it.
I feel guilty making these posts with them not being very exciting... but this thread has been an excellent way to documenting this car so here is another
So I've been chipping away at this speaker box for a while now here and there. its coming out really well and I'm almost done. still need to paint the spots where I'm putting "Carrera" and "911" candy green and then put the stickers over that spot and paint the box black. peel up the stickers and voila
Now that I'm wrapping up this 944 paint job for a member here I'm freeing up some room and I started my wheels last night. Started sanding it down with 600 grit and cleaning it up. going to go black with the color and I'm going to change out a few things on the car for black as well so the them will be green with black being the contrast color now. black Porsche emblems, tint the windows, tint the front and rear lights and the black rims.. I think it will look ok.
I'll post up pics of clutch/fly wheel when I make some more progress. Been to busy lately to get over there to work on it.
Thanks for looking guys.
ya I agree. I think it will contrast the green much better than the polished look.
I don't want to take the tires off so i'll just sand them lolol
quick note I forgot to mention. the fiberglass box weighs 14lbs vs the wood box that weighed 45
not sure how it will sound.. we will see.
Well done, just saw your thread for the first time. Finally someone else is actually doing things with their own hands too as opposed to farming it out. Excellent work.
thank you sir. raised by a poor single mom, my brother and I learned real fast if we wanted something ... make it happen
life is so short... get out there and have fun. trying my hardest to teach my son this mind set as well.
you hit the nail on the head with that one tex. That was my one reservation when buying these rims. it was just such a good deal for such an nice high end set of wheels and I couldn't pass it up. I'm going to be hiding the detail and deep dish of these wheel when people see them from a distance
but I think the over all look will go well with the other black accents I'm going to do.
thanks guys.
I know I want to put some green somewhere on that wheel but I'm worried about my skills for doing it on a wheel. I don't want it to look like a garage wheel paint job. After looking at tons of diy wheel pics online over the last few weeks preparing for this... I'm worried lol
I still need to set sand the wheel land clear coat so theirs still time for me to get some guts and do something.
I think using a porsche font would make this look so much better or even the whole thing either green or black. I think a vinyl decal would probably be easiest.
Nice work - all around. I've decided I won't kick your *** when I see you at the track...
Really like the last couple of posts with the black wheels. I'd leave them the way they are - they look great!
Maybe I can try to bribe you with your favorite beverage for pointers. You've got paint and body skills I can only dream of. My skills are more mechanical and in driving. Cosmetics generally are an afterthought.
thank you ...greatly appreciated. I can�t talk guff on the forums about not needing lessons to drive fast and get whoopped by someone who has had them lol
best of all you have a fun gear head mentality. I love these forums for kicking back enjoying the car talk.
so its settled... i just finished wet sanding and clear coating the first rim... all black it is.
lol i just dont trust my skills. Its crazy hard to paint rims without creating runs... for me anyway.
+1 on TexSquirrel...but leaving them black is OK to....To date, your thread has been my favorite....and there have been a lot of good ones (and some bad ones)...as I and others have said...ttt123, you are a god
wow thank you sir. This build was a lot of fun. I surprised my self doing it in 5 months for the main portion. I wish i could do this stuff for a living... i love tinkering with cars. Even if the green new deal goes through and we are all forced to drive peddle bikes to our vegan farms for work to help reduce the amount of farting cows in the world .... mine will be unique with widebody and turbo
Saturday morning edition update please help I have all of the bolts out of the transmission and the crossmember if that�s what it�s called disconnected as well everything that I can see disconnected from the transmission and I can�t get the transmission to pull apart from the motor when lowering it with a jack I have never dropped a manual transmission only 700r4�s ... sorry for my Chevy guy here any advice so I don�t break something ?
Thanks guys
Triple check that you have all of the bolts out. If you do, and assuming the front mount is off, all that is holding it is the transmission input shaft and friction in the clutch disk splines. You just need to maneuver it forward, toward the front of the car to disengage the shaft from the disk.
Please make sure the forward part of your engine is supported. The whole transmission/engine assembly is only held up by two motor mounts at the rear and the transmission mount at the front. If the engine isn�t supported when you try to remove the transmission, all that weight is on the input shaft and the engine could drop dangerously, likely causing damage or injury.
There is a factory tool, but you can weld one up easily or support it with a support stand. I fabbed an engine support bar up, it�s very straightforward.
I heard the email notification come in for your post as I was under the car and found one more bolt at the very top so eight bolts total. quick question when I release that bolt and separate the transmission from the motor will it tip forward or reward toward the back of the car so I know which side to support it. big thank you for that tip I did not know that.
I an very carefule when under cars... huge fear laying under vehicles so i have four jacks under there with me
One more quick question. where would be a good spot to have the jack under the transmission? I know on a 700r4 it�s about a third way back from the bell housing to keep it from tipping rearward or forward when lowering it what about this manual transmission?
Thank you again
I don�t remember any specific balance point. It isn�t super heavy or impossible to manage.
I use a tranmission scissor jack on top of a lift table (harbor freight), and a homemade engine support bar.
Oh yeah, the bolts are different sizes/lengths, so I usually put them in a piece of cardboard so I remember which one goes where.
Thanks, and glad to share my experience. My favorite part of enthusiast forums is the sharing of information, especially tech tips. I always learn a ton from other participants, and try to share what little I am able.
These forums have taught me how to wrench. Always appreciate any input from everyone.
Well i didnt get it out but real close. Next Saturday it should be out.
Rear wheels are now done, sent my headers out and had the blasted real good and painted them back up. Going to have the same guy do the rest of the exhaust now now iv seen his work.
Thanks
Yay!!! I'm finally getting back to putting stuff back on my car. spring is around the corner and I want this done.
So the trans finally made it out of the car and I can start cleaning everything up as I wait for the light weight flywheel, clultch, rms and ims to get here. anything else I should do while I have the trans out guys?
rear rims are painted, cleared and balanced and now ready to go. headers have been repainted and the rest of the exhaust has been blasted and getting painted this week. speaker box is done and ready to go back in.
I think the black against the green looks waaayyy better. also ordered a tail light, headlight and side marker black out tint kit off amazon. also going to paint the hood emblem black.
question.. think the mirrors would look better black?
thanks guys
Brian, I love your car. You have done an amazing job on it. I think you will absolutely love the Aasco lwfw. You bought the right brand of clutch. I could not tell from the pictures, so I thought I better chime in and save you some grief....if your new clutch disc is not spring centered (unlike your stock clutch), you will want to swap it for one that is.
I hope the install goes smooth and you enjoy a faster revving engine.
Brian, I'm glad that I piped in. That is a non spring centered clutch disc. You will need to exchange it. There is also a sport version of the Sachs clutch that can handle more power than stock. Randy Aasco is the owner of the company and they support tons of Porsche race teams. He can confirm what I am telling you. The spring centered disc helps absorb the vibrations that the dual mass clutch previously absorbed. The Aasco lwfw is a single mass flywheel. I am not an expert on the subject. I did tons of research before I switched to the lwfw. Alex at Skarkwerks was also a great source of information.
https://www.sharkwerks.com/1999-sharkwerks-project-ytshark-motons-brembo-flywheel-fikse-and-ruf
This was the first 996 that I ever heard with a lwfw. It was the inspiration for my build.
OK so after your post put me in a feverishly stressed out state of mine lol I called pelican parts and spoke with the salesman..very helpful he got me in touch with aasco and I talked with them about what I should be using then got back with pelican parts and ordered the correct clutch pressure plate kit ... thanks for pointing that out.
so tomorrow I guess I will just be replacing the fly wheel and rear main seal
i have other things to do on my checklist so now worries.
Thanks!!!
I'm done!! No more work on this car till I do the motor swap, next winter. So this post is just to show the final status cosmetically for this car. Some pics, a video, some info on the stuff I did etc.
So this winter the car got new trans mounts, under drive crank pulley, IPD plenum and lightly ported throttle body, light weight fly wheel(Aasco) and performance clutch, painted rims and new tires, new speaker box and speakers... I think that's it... I'll update if I remember anything else.
I have driven the car a couple times since my last post when I finished it,...it feels great.. I love it !! There was so much talk about this lightweight flywheel mod and quite a bit of it was negative. So after I got it done and took it up to the parts store for a few mile drive I made a video(below) and talked about it in the video showing a rev and walk around. I mention how I don't here any infamous chatter in the video but it sounds like some is heard in the video that I noticed after watching the video. Just for the record... I don't hear this in the car. All the bad stuff everyone said about this... I just am not having that experience. This mod is awesome and I don't see why anyone would hesitate to do it. Keep in mind this is
MY OPINION
so please don't take it as anything more then how it feels
to me
. Not trying to debate anything on it, just sharing
Some of the negative things I read or had said to me were loud chatter at low rpms or idle, stalling at stop lights, stalling at low idles, rough idles and a couple others I don't remember. I have a horrible memory if you can tell from this thread. I've driven it for about 60 mile now and I just don't see any of these issues. It has not stalled on me once, I don't hear the chatter etc. About the only thing I would say in regards to something maybe considered as a negative ... you need to relearn how to use the clutch pedal. It revs so quick and matching your foot to the rev for taking off can be a little tricky for a few stop lights. I was at a stop light in Romeo and a group of people were on the corner and taking pics of the car and I tried to take off and .... lol it was like a 16 yr old trying to learn how to drive a manual lolol the cool factor went right out the window realll fast lolol ..vroom errt ..vroom errt.... vroommmmm errt errt errt
lolol I laughed so hard... so did they lol I got it down now but just so you know.
Positives... it revs fast, it FEELS like 1st and 2nd gear have some more get up and go. I cant prove that with numbers but 2nd gear feels awesome when you get on it. Response and all around driving experience.. the car just feels zippier. I think It was definitely worth the money.
The black rims to me look awesome!!! I've had it out 3 times now and it must make it look more challenging/aggressive or something cuz I've had 3 times someone race up to me with there cars and try to race lol I love the black emblem on the front and I've been learning the techniques of buffing paint(never bothered with buffing in the past) this winter so I'm wet sanding and buffing the Porsche and wow so nice.
Anyway, glamor pics and video. On the way home from where I was storing/working on the car for winter my wife followed and took some vids for me. I don't have much on my channel, just a few videos but one of them is of a Camaro I did years ago you might enjoy as well.
Hope you all like it and thank you all for such a good thread. Everyone was super positive and supportive and after doing quite a few builds on other sites.. this thread was the best.
Brian
You Tube
Brian, I'm not surprised to hear that you like the lwfw. I have had mine for over a decade. It still puts a smile on my face. Your car looks absolutely gorgeous. The time you spent working on it with your son is priceless. My family helped me on several project cars. My youngest is now working in the engineering field because of his project car experience.
Thanks Mfletch, I have mentioned half jokingly to my son "do you think we should sell it" lol he always responds with a loud no. children need there parents to be involved, my wife and I try so hard to equip him with a brain for life instead of a
smart phone
lol so far ... its going pretty well. For a 9 yr old, he impresses us all the time with common sense.
the lwfw is a blast, so glad I did this mod. combined with the light weight crank pully and the IPD plenum.. there is zero hesitation with this car. When I bought car a couple years ago I thought "wow this thing responds great" now after everything I've done and now the lwfw its just instant response. When you touch the gas the car moves without effort. I'm not making any claims to being a faster car.. although I'd love to see some numbers of before and after but just driving the car feels better.
Thanks
Brian
Thank you sir. I have re-read through this thread probably 4 times lol I really did have a lot of fun with this car. other than the motor swap next winter.. its time I get back to my custom car and finish up the fiero body kit for my wifes car... oh and I just got that audi tt which needs some of my attention to get all the mods to work... it never ends lol
i cant think of a toy car ive owner I haven�t modded and had fun with. Sgucks ive done that with most my daily frivers as well lol.
This tt i just picked up last weekend already has parts on ordered for it on there way and that will be my new daily. Hoping for 300hp to the wheels
life is short!!
Took the car to track Saturday. it was an amazing experience. The suspension and all the mods I did.. car felt like ... a Porsche lol so much fun. check out the video "track day" on my page. its a highlight video of the day with tons of pics of the cars there and racing around the track.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgh...able_polymer=1
How do you like that blind lefthander (turn #3)?
Looks as though they kept you guys in check. Were there other run groups (experienced, instructors) that were allowed to push?
Hated it lol that was the one corner that just kind of through the control i thought i had lol
yes there was three classes, and instructors. They had some great insight to share and we did a lead follow session. It was a blast, i was reaching about 120 on the straight and was waiting most the times in the turns for the cars ahead of me to go faster. The porsche did amazing there. My skills... held it back lol
Not fully reviving this thread yet as I'm still a couple months away from getting down and dirty but I am starting and working on a few things. kind of a teaser video as I start to think out the exhaust. I got a ways to go I think lol... not even close for sound.
You Tube
X10 /\ lol ya the video really makes me cringe. the fiero sounds good for a fiero lolol I've been reading all day on different ways to try my next attempt.
If you want a Porsche-esque sound out of the V6 you're probably going to want unequal length headers that have equal length runners on each bank, but with an unequal length between the collectors and the merge. This is the main reason Subaru's sound like they do.
Mounted the intercooler, thought i was going to need to fab up some brackets but apparently Porsche knew i was going to mount an intercooler right there
i might put a cryo mister in front of it..but I�ll wait to see what the tuner says.
Can someone identify this little hose? Do i need it?
Also put some screens over the air vents, getting tired of cleaning out leaves.
Im pretty sure that is a drain hose. U should be able to shorten or move it and not cause any issues.
The rest looks good. I wish i had the patients or skill for body work.
thanks for the info.
Patients.. ya thats one thing I've learned to have over the years. although now that I'm about a year or so out of all this work on the car.. I already want to redo it. I see so many small details that don't look good and it drives me crazy. I'm going to redo some of the paint this winter and probably clean up my wheel flares a little more. one bad thing about doing this stuff in a garage is LIGHTING.. so hard to see the imperfections without the proper lighting. when its in the sun I can see issues.. but it was fun and no-one else seems to notice other than serious car guys lol
Made some brackets to mount some new horns.. I'm channeling my Asian teenager within. to tuner inspired or ok? I like the intercooler showing through the grille but the horns... I'm not sure. I made the brackets a little wider trying to think ahead for mounting stuff for the intercooler and what not once I start running stuff when the new motor is in there.
Also had a friend bring over his turbo so we could put on an exhaust.. I gotta get me one of these turbos..so nice. lol After we do the exhaust (should finish up tonight) I'll do a vid of his revving vs mine
I'll also do a video of us racing but I wont share that one.. just trust me I'll win
Man, i still marvel at this thread. I love projects, but you do the work of a 12 man team!
So so glad you went to black wheels, you might notice I suggested that way back at the beginning of this thread, lol. But you should add a green time attack to give the wheels some definition.
I too contemplated a lwfw, but it wasn�t the chatter that discouraged me, it was the unbalanced harmonics introduced that scared me off as I wasn�t able to find a shop nearby that felt comfortable making it all play nice together. You can read more about this potential (and possibly catastrophic) issue in one of Jake�s posts below, just a heads up...
https://www.renntech.org/topic/23219...aft-with-pics/
I have read through this thread probably 3 or 4 times and I'll come across a post and I'm like "wow that looks good" then remember I did it lolol I'm very proud of this build, funnest one I've done yet. Amazes me that its up to almost 70k views and I still have the motor swap to go.
The wheels are not done. just painted and this winter they will be going in for powder coat. I'm going to talk with them and see what they can do to offer some kind of accent to them. whether its an attack or maybe a green metal flaking effect in the black etc... I'll see what they suggest.
As far as the lwfw, I browsed through some of that thread and that motor was pushing quite a bit of power compared to mine but ... I get it I truly do, its a risk that many don't want to take. But I will say.. the lwfw has made the car a lot funner to drive 1st through 3rd gear. For me I've come at this car from a different mindset from the beginning then perhaps most. it had higher miles, I've cut it up and made it custom and I'm honestly just having fun. plus... plus Theres this for back up
:
\/
Love this thread.. firstly that you made time with your son a priority .. secondly, sharing a ton of interesting work
making a unique car.. so jealous of your skills. I’m normally a “stock” guy, but Love this car!
thank you greatly appreciated.
As far as the son part, My self and my wife don't do any social media stuff like that twitter thing or the face site lol simply ... we don't want our info and personal picks online so I haven't posted any picks of my son in this thread but if I did I would post the ones of him when we go for a drive and he props his little 9yr old self up in the passenger seat with a grin as we drive. He thinks this car is just the coolest thing around lolol makes me almost emotional to see his pride in "my dads car" lol
When we were working on that 996 turbo last night he sat rite there on his mechanics stool(we have matching stools lolol) and watched us the whole time lol He was quick to run and grab tools for us and offered thoughts and suggestions lol
children are awesome
Gotta watch this video!! I love my exhaust even more now lol but this turbo sounds pretty sick as well. My good friend Martin has had his car at my house for the last few days as we customized an exhaust system for his car. finished it up last night and decided to show everyone how little regard we had for our motors by disturbingly over revving them to get a jolly
Also went for a ride in his car, little over stock if I'm not mistaken and wow... I have to buy me a turbo 996 asap. What a thrill, the power... just amazing. Such a wonderful vehicle, and his is quite nice.
You Tube
Just a fair warning both cars were warmed up before reviving
literally just back from a drive.
Also,
if anyone wants some good work done porsche tax exempt, Brian is your guy. He does a really good job for a more than fair price! Fully recommended!
Enjoy!
Ya i think i did our 3.4�s right with that exhaust. I think the only other exhaust ive heard so far that sounds mean like mine would be tekkie�s. I don�t remember the name of his but it sounds good as well.
Needless to say im super proud of my little diy exhaust lol i revved a crotch rocket the other day and he flipped up his visor and had that �whoa� look on his face and gave me a big smile and thumbs up lol
These pictures are just yummy lol
I feel like lightening is going to strike every time I get within touching distance to this motor
lol
Getting closer. So quick question, does anyone know off the top of there head what the total height (bottom of oil pan to top of intake) of the 3.4 Porsche engine is? I measured my boxster couple years ago and it was 26"' I will measure the 911 set up tonight to confirm so no worries if not. Waiting for a few parts to come in and this motor will be done and ready to start the swap.
So far my concern is going to be height of this set up. I can swap out intercoolers which would drop it by 1" but I'd really like to keep the 2" (tall stack) cooler under that charger. It will allow me to get closer to my HP/TQ goals. Fabbing up a sheet metal hump/bump in the rear where the speaker box is doesn't scare me but where the supercharger snout comes toward the rear hood... that's what I'm concerned out. I might need to notch it a little bit. As long as I can re-create the drip edge and close the hood with out it being seen.. I'll be happy. if not.. I'm going to have to think up another option such as shorter oil pan or the shorter intercooler.
Just a heads up, I have just installed a light weight fly wheel (aasco) and performance clutch a couple months ago. Has about 500 miles on it and that will be going up for sell as soon as I stop driving the car and drop the motor. Also the 3.4 motor will be up for sale. Has light weight crank pulley, IPD plenum, and runs great with no issues. Any fair offer... I'd pretty much say "sure, come get it" the exhaust system will be up for sell as well, its not the prettiest but its the best sounding system I've ever heard on a N/A 3.4
Last picture, a friend sent me that picture from facebook(I don't do social media) someone took that of my car at cars and coffee last weekend .. that was cool to see my car pop up online lol so thanks to who ever that was
More importantly u will need to measure center of crank to top of motor. This will allow u to align the motor and trans in the factory plane and keep the trans in the correct spot. This measurement is one of the determining factors on how much work i will need to do if i decide to try and stuff a newer lt-4 in my car. Its only an inch higher then a ls-3 but that may equate into a ton of work.
replied
will do. I have four project cars going currently... Hold my non alcoholic beer while I get to work lol
He can get mine pretty cheap.
honestly thanks for the tip. I will keep that in mind as I fit this motor in. if it goes to high ... I've always wanted to learn how to cut and notch glass lol
Smart man.
HOWEVER... If you were ever going to start using social media, now would be a good time. There is a group on Facebook (Swapped Porsche) I belong to that's dedicated to Porsche engine swaps of all kinds and it is an excellent resource for all the weird issues you might run into, whether it's making some component fit where it shouldn't, or the wiring headache you're bound to have. There's a lot of really smart people who have put all sorts of weird stuff into 911s.
ya know I tried finding it when it was mentioned earlier in the thread and couldn't find it. But that might be because I'm not a member or something. I'm sure I would enjoy it and value the info on it but its just a major in our marriage and family to not get online like that.
Let me elaborate a little. My self and my wife are both programmers, my self in the automotive field and my wife for major tech company with access to a lot of tools and we have seen so much fraud, theft, malice etc. come from that stuff that we made the decision about 13 years ago to not even bother.
Quick story and true, about 4 years ago we got hacked at our bank, phone etc. no lie literally (like you would see in a movie) chased the hacker (online) as he was changing all our passwords and because my wife has access to ... certain things through her job we were able to stop him at every password change and credit charge in the span of about 2 hours till we shut him/her completely out. That reaffirmed ... stay off social media lol That's also why we try not to let any face pics online of us. My wife works with the face recognition stuff at work and guys..... its seriously scary stuff, be careful.
ok i'll shut up now lolol
3800sc series 2 from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. with all the goodies + a 50 shot of No2
and this one to lol
Scott, I think there is going to be a few guys getting together to cruise over in your neck of the woods this sunday morning at 7:30am. 4095 Patterson lake rd, Pinckney
I figured u wouldnt have an issue but i kind of threw that out for others reading the thread too. There is actually plenty of room under the glass where the 3rd break light sits. If i were gonna do the taller motor i would eliminate the light and rework the sheet metal so it forms into the trunk lid correctly. My issue is i only have a fraction of the body work skills u have.
De .. please throw out any info you feel is relevant to this thread. It is GREATLY appreciated !! I did not know that so and now I do. Guys I'm not an engine guru so if anybody has info to share.. I welcome it. fab skills I thing I'm ok but when it comes to tuning and how this stuff works... deer in the headlights. 90% of the time I find the issue I'm trying to figure out online and just follow exactly what they did to make my stuff work. E
xcept
the dry wall mud thing!!!! I'm so proud of that lol that was all me, never seen someone do that for forming my molds. I gave myself a big pat on the back for that little trick.. so much easier then everything else I've seen and tried.
thank you
I love when you guys chime in on the thread... I feel loved
So I had a "facepalm" moment
notice the two nuts? one on each side of the plastic... ya I was supposed to have that plastic against the cast and not rested on the nut. Problem is, if you've ever tore down one of these 3.8sc... theirs no puller hole for the balancer pulley. So when you take them off you need to bang them with a hammer or wiggle them with two long pry bars. My problem is I don't want to bang on it since the bearings are new and I don't want to throw anything off with my end play and I don't want to pry on it since its all painted up and lookin perrty, gonna have to think about this one. Anyway other than that.. its going good with this motor so far.
I rebuilt the supercharger wed/thurs night and now that's ready to be secured down as soon as my bolts come in. Working on getting all the sensors on there along with rebuilding the northstar throttle body. Hoping to get the Porsche in the garage and start removing the motor(its for sale for cheap if anyone wants it and it has some goodies on it already) and making up my mounts and running stuff. Also laid out my engine harness... that's gonna be scary
Very interesting project .Hard to visualize how this will fit height wise with the supercharger .Based on your past accomplishments I am sure you have a plan and can't wait to see it unfold .
thanks, it will be a brain buster I'm sure as I get into it. right now I'm still in the preparing phase before it gets messy. when the Porsche motor comes out... it gets real lol
keep in mind, this motor is only 2 inches taller than the 3.8sc I'm swapping out for. the pics are a little misleading. I think my touble areas will be in the very back where the throttle body will be (over trans) and the front where the supercharger snout will be protruding out to the deck lid where that little fan is mounted. but.. the deck lid side of it is fiberglass so if I have to make a small hump I cant see it being more than a 1/2 inch or so. I had planned on redoing the intake vents this winter anyway to replicate the 4.0 set ups I seen which will raise the hight of the lid in that area anyway.
reading my response... I give cudos to whoever can follow along lol cuz I make no sense lolol
just stay tuned guys... this
IS
going turn out amazing. I'm not rushing through this part of the build like I did the body work(redoing a lot of it this winter). I'm taking my time and I'm going to try and make this top notch. This car WILL be fast one way or another lol
When you are doing your measurements suggest that you reinstall transmission and rear suspension crossmember .There is not a lot of clearance there .Some of the ls swaps have made a new crossmember to drop the engine .Up and down on engine doesn't seem to affect cv joints .Fore and aft does .
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif
https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif
Thanks for the tip. The crossmember thing I didn't thank about so thanks but I did want to fit it with the trans mounted because I do want it all level and keep the angles of the axles perpendicular to the trans in for/aft as much as possible. Way up in the thread somewhere is a pic of the car I'm building from scratch and that is an issue I'm still dealing with ... when I actually work on it lol. I don't want added stress on these axles as I DO intend to drop the clutch(this motor will be a torque monster) and drive it like I stole it.... is there any other way
ya know it cracks me up with the pop corn smilies. Everytime I see them posted in this thread I'm thinking the same thing .. how is this going to turn out
lol I've said it a few times and its worth repeating a few more.. this build has by far been a blast to do and I have done a lot of builds. If the 996 wasn't so fun to drive I would never have put this much work into this car.. they really
are amazing cars to drive. If these cars don't put a smile on your face when your driving it.. your not DRIVING it lol
next set of pictures will have Sylvester Stallone welding some brackets lol
I was down on woodward last Saturday with my wife and son. cruising up and down with all the cool cars and when I parked I had a ton of people come up and ask me to rev lol at every stop light when I took off heads turned lol it was quite funny. my wife recorded it was so many people. this exhaust sounds amazing
The exhaust has already sold to a fellow rennlister. As soon as I put the car up on jacks its getting a new home.
Opinions please!! I need to let air escape from the back side of the intercooler.. so I'm going to make some vents. I'm drawing a blank for ideas. I drew some thoughts on the bumper last night but I'm not sure I'm liking it. Kind of looks like the early 2000's GTO and ...not a liken it. Anyone have any ideas?
Its a blank slate, feel free to draw on these pics and repost some ideas.
In this pic, I'm thinking about bringing the upper nose out a little bit to put a little more length on it so its forward as much as the lower lip at the bottom. Any thing thoughts?
I found this front grille on ebay but if I buy this one and put it on... I have the same thing others have vs making my own and it being a one off.
Gonna put a little more curature on the lower side of the bumper.. not much just another 1/4 or 1/2 out.
I should add, I'm not just wanting to cut out the fiberglass. I want to make a fiberglass insert that will be blended back into the bumper for this grill.
So the engine is in back and the intercooler is in front? How is that going to work? That's a lot of plumbing.
I'm not an aerodynamicist, but I don't think the area you have marked is going to flow air as efficiently as you want. Ideally, you want a low pressure region to assist in drawing air through the intercooler. That location may be an area of high pressure - and the faster you go, the higher the pressure. Without a proper exit, your intercooler will not do its job. If you can move further rearward (exits through the frunk lid), you would surely be in a region of low pressure.
Here's a perfect example of what I'm talking about. Note the little lip on the leading edge of the ducts, that increases air speed (over the top) and further pulls air through.
water to air intercooler and ya its gotta mount in the front.. its a big cooler. I could replicate the gt40 hood ...seriously. Think that would look goofy on a porsche??
High pressure vs low pressure.. do you have anything I could read up on for that. I've never heard of that but I'm not up on turbo/chargers. I've always built old school motors with carbs. I thought I read something about anything over 30 mph of air flow through a cooler makes no difference in temps, so it being in that front grill spot would easily allow that especially in traffic driving. keeping the engine cool is a big part of my tune to avoid knock for my particular set up.
The plumbing for the cooler is two 1" hoses so it shouldn't be to much of a hassle. plus the side vents I'm going to make(something similar to the "ruff" side vents) is going to be on one side CAI and the other for an engine oil cooler.
Just the beginning stages of this swap so please throw out thoughts, concerns and HELPFUL criticism lol
The car is up on jacks and I am now pulling it apart.
It might look good. But you would lose functionality of some of your cargo space. You could also add a fan or two in there.
It's not forced induction related - it's vehicle aerodynamics. Here's a link that has some basic information:
http://www.up22.com/Aerodynamics.htm
Specifically the image that shows;
Lift and Downforce From Over Body Flow.
(Lift is low pressure, downforce is high pressure)
So what is flowing in these 1" hoses? I assume it is either water of anti-freeze. That size cross section would be inadequate for air-to-air intercooling.
Were it me, I would experiment the old fashioned way by taping tufts of yarn to the various regions in question and drive. Either film with a Go-Pro, or have someone film alongside in another car. Observe the deflection of the yarn at various speeds. Those that are forced against the body are in high pressure zones. Tufts that are pulled up (or at least not slammed into the body), are in areas of low pressure. The low pressure regions are where you'll gain the most efficient air flow. Keep in mind, you are looking to pull (extract) air through the cooler.
The bold above, in your text, assumes a good design. There is no proof yet, that your marked area would be a good design. It might be fine, but I would try experimenting if efficiency is important. If this is more about looks than function, that's a different matter.
Interesting link, thank you. not sure I understood it all but I think I get the jest of it.
This intercooler came as a kit, they are made by ZZP and I'm mounting it in the same fashion as its mounted for the grand prix gtp that its made for. It also goes to a second intercooler(2" thick) that's mounted between the upper and lower intake on the engine(seen in picks above) it self and filled with 50/50 antifreeze. The forum I researched this set up on gives good reviews for the size of the system and its efficiency and quite a few guys have posted there dyno results of before and after. That's not me trying to defend this set up just sharing what I know about this system.
The link definitely has me thinking maybe coming up through the hood might be a little better set up. If I'm understanding the link correctly which .. this is the area where I fail guys and try to rely on others for. along with bump at the start of the cut out it would create the lift of air to pull it through the tunnel. Not sure if I'm saying that right...plus ... it will look pretty cool lol
Thanks for input.. this is very helpful.
I cant do the yarn thing. the Porsche is now up on jacks and exhaust is off (getting shipped to the buyer soon) and I've already started taking things apart.
Just to clarify - for future reference - I would call intercooler #1 a
radiator
(cooling the liquid that is used to later cool something else). The second one, is an
intercooler
(cooling the forced charge of air going into the engine).
In order to help the intercooler do its job effectively, it needs to receive the coolest possible fluid from the radiator. To do this, the radiator must have efficient airflow through it (covered in my earlier posts). This is where aerodynamics come in.
You may notice in the photo I posted above (the radiators in the GT40) there is a coolant temperature sensor in one of the pipes. If you can do something like this, you will be able monitor the efficiency of your radiator. This will allow you to determine if any additional changes or modifications improve or reduce the effectiveness. This can include many things: ambient temperature, aero mods, cooling fans, ducting configuration, etc. It would actually be very interesting to monitor the temperature coming out of the intercooler as well.
they really do need a face palm emoji to choose from the list lol basically I should stick to talking about fiberglass and painting lol sorry for my use of labels, radiator and intercooler.. got it.
Funny you mentioned the temp sensors. I already purchased those as well. I want to be able to monitor both of them, in and out. I still haven't decided what I'm going to interface them with though for the dash. I also mentioned doing a cryo freeze kit for the "radiator #1" on another forum where they use this motor for a lot of different set ups. With the sensors I could get honest data as to if its effective or not. No one really had much thought on that one. Any thoughts on the cryo freeze misting kits being worth the money.
My thinking on that was if I use the NO2 it would be a quick way to help bring down the temps quicker.
It's my turn to not know what
you
are talking about. I know what a mister is; do not know about a cryo freeze kit. Got a link?
If it's what I envision, you now add more complexity for (what I believe to be) little return. You've already stated the radiator is very large. How much more cooling would you anticipate by misting the radiator (water/ alcohol mix, I assume)? Again, speaking for myself, I would first locate the radiator such that outlet air is in an area of low (aero) pressure and monitor temperatures. If things get hot, then look for upgrades, whether it be fans or modified ducting. If that doesn't get what you want, then misting may be an option.
You probably won't need four sensors/ senders. The input to one should be very close to the output of the other. However if you did have something odd with the plumbing, this could be observed quickly with four senders. My idea - were I messing with this, would be to have a single gauge with a switch that allows you to monitor one sender at a time. Just label the switch (intercooler out, radiator out, etc). I would certainly go with no more than two gauges.
Great info Scott, thank you for chiming in. I got a lot of figuring out to do with this swap ... gonna be fun.
This is a cheap version of what I was thinking .. if needed but I'm hoping to not bother with it as it seems like more of a gimmick than a real method for cooler but it got me thinking.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Intercooler-W...50439450&rt=nc
I don't think i'll have a problem keeping things cool with the motor. I do want to make sure I'm smart about the radiator though so I will do some more research before I take the cut off wheel to the car lol
hey now.. be nice. this car is going to look amazing come next spring. I took it off the road early this year so I can take my time and do a better job then I did the first phase of this build
Yeah - you could do the same thing with a windshield washer pump/ reservoir and nozzles for practically nothing. But again, at what return?
Can you post an image and dimensions for the radiator? I'd be curious to know how large it is and where I would put it, if I were playing this game.
And next time you have the front of the car apart - maybe you could take a photo of the radiator in a location that you would consider mounting it. I'd like to get a feel for how things would package. You should also investigate how the 911 center radiator mounts and vents on these cars, as many owners already do this as a cooling upgrade. There may be no reason to reinvent the wheel if simple packaging and an effective design already exists.
The radiator#1 is located with the same mounts for the center radiator provided on the car where the third rad is added on 911's. I'll have to get the size of it later when I'm at home.
Ok don't throw the hammer at me... so low pressure vs high pressure.. am I'm completely off for thinking it was about air flow THROUGH the radiator vs what we are talking about in that link for pressure? Does that make all these tuner cars that have the coolers/radiators in the center of the grill not very efficient? I just sunk $10k into my audi TT and the cooler kit for the upgrades put it in the same some spot I'm putting it on the Porsche.. in the center of the grill. I'm being serious, on the technical side of wrenching is honestly the area where my brain just doesn't get it.
glad I already paid for the desk top tune and dyno tune when this is all done. Other wise I would never attempt this lol
Let's try to keep it simple. The radiator (and air-to-air intercoolers) on nearly any car is mounted in front. This is where the most air will hit it (very high pressure). How the air gets processed after exiting the radiator is what I am trying to help with.
We all know there is a wall there on the 911 (front of the frunk). How does the air route past, through or around this? That is essentially what your question was (will this ducting work?), right? My point about high and low pressure zones was to get you looking for a low pressure zone to pull the air through the radiator. And since you can't go directly rearward, you either go above, under, around or through the front of the frunk. Going through the frunk and out the frunk lid would, theoretically optimize this flow by taking advantage of the low pressure zone over the top of the frunk (hence the GT40 reference).
There are other low pressure zones at work here. The stock radiators already use some of these areas - whether it is undercar or into the fender wells. Adding to, or duplicating these pathways should be effective as well. They certainly won't be as glorious if you don't get to create a masterpiece of fiberglass duct-work.
ohhhhhhh lolol I get it I get !! thank you for that explanation lol see I'm slow on this part guys major sorry if I draw out a question. I do try not to labor the simple stuff but sometimes it just goes right over my head. so my thinking was correct I just needed some clarification. so through the frunk lid I think would be quite easy for me to do and be a better set up then almost vertical up through the bumper. that way I can create a sweep/flow for the air to exit.
Look at the latest Porsche 911 design. They already invented the wheel for you and spent a lot of money doing it! That's all I got...
Mod on brothah!
I love this color!
I know you are looking for a creative outlet and unique design. But if you run out of time or have too many projects to take care of first, you could temporarily try the stock air management method employed with the third radiator. I do look forward to seeing what you end up doing.
Apples to oranges. Those are air-to-air intercoolers. Keep up - we determined he has an air-to-water intercooler on the engine and a radiator for the front...
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So this was mentioned earlier up in the thread and now that I have the car up on jacks and started pulling stuff out of the engine bay I wanted to double check clearances in U/D as I'm not worried about C/C being how wide the 3.4 is vs the 3.8 motor I'm using.
So the pics below show the crank to bottom of oil pan for both motors and then the crank to top of intake for both motors. Going up doesn't' worry me to much as I can work with sheet metal in the passenger compartment if needed. My concern was the crank to oil pan and I will actually have more clearance to the ground with my new motor set up then the Porsche motor. The top how ever will be 3" taller vs the Porsche motor. I could take out the intercooler (2") and lower the clearance above but I'd rather fab the car than the motor as I want to keep the build of the motor to keep my HP goals.
The air intake is going to be F/AFT (over the tans) of the motor which will also give me more room at the trunk area and possibly not cause any issues for shutting the rear hood. Again fabbing the metal in the passenger compartment is not a concern for me. it actually work better for me as I will be routing the air intake to the sides of the car like the turbo set up vents for the intercoolers which will hopefully offer me a "ram air" kinda set up lol .. kinda lol
Thanks guys, this car is a blast.
Going forward all posts will be of progress. Im now all in and disassembling the car at this point.
Prepped exhaust to get shipped to new owner.. i hope he loves it as much as my Neihgbors did... i mean i did
for those who have heard it in person.. amazing.
Stay tuned, its about to start getting good
So just a quick thought .. i am going to attempt the gt40 style hood and im thinking something along the lines of these type vents for my air intake for the motor on one side and oil cooler for the other side
Excellent! Can't wait to get it bolted up. I have a few more tidbits to do on my 3.4 to 3.8 rebuild (custom-made fuel injector clips for gen 2 996 injectors, custom AOS catch-can, rebuilt tranny by GBox w/ Wavetrac LSD, new pinion bearing, synchros, etc.). Thanks again Brian! My neighbors ARE going to love it! Ha!
Just a thought.. Look at how a sprint car radiator is plumbed,, Might give you some ideas..
They use 4/5/6 hoses to the engine from the radiator. And they make 800 horsepower and
only need a 14x14 ish radiator..
Quick question, I have somebody interested in buying my motor but they are asking if the ECM and wire harness comes with it. does anybody know if I will need either of them to do my swap since I have a standalone wire harness for my new motor and ECM. does that control anything inside the cab etc. or anything else i might need?
Probably newbie question but im in unchartered territory here lol
The dme and immobiliser are paired , not sure why the buyer would want just the dme .I am pretty sure you don't wat to sell your immobilizer as that could create some unwanted complications .The engine harness is redundant and not needed .There is one connector needed for the water temp gauge but no reason to cut up a know good harness .
Not sure if this is true, but i have heard that u need to piggy back the compurer using the original sensors to get the factory cluster to work. I havent really looked too deep into this but um sure the answers are on the ls swap forums.
Well i am doing a dash swap with all new gauges but I wasn�t sure if not having the ecm would effect things like windows, locks, heater etc.
the electrical side of this project is going to be a major hurdle for me... just not my area of understanding.
Thanks for chiming in guys, very appreciated
brian
oh ya quick note... thats gotta be the easiest motor ive ever pulled. Took me about an hour and a half and all i need to do is lower it now. Super easy set up
If I was building a track toy,, the factory electrical would be gone day 1,,
I've stripped many cars to build race tubs, its pretty common for the stock electrical menagerie
to weigh over 100 lbs.. I'd grab the old cluster out of about a 1970 911,
put modern VDO guts in
and call it good. Air-tique can help with working AC if that matters.. Go to mechanical controls.
But whatever you want to spend time on ,, its your time
Probably wise
thanks
i do want to keep the comforts and keep it a street car. I am getting rid of a/c though. Living in Michigan theres maybe one or two days out of the summer that ive used it in this car. Not sure what the a/c weight is but it will be gone.
With the new dash and new after market gauges i just need the windows, locks, heater and lights to remain. Might end up reducing some weight.. not sure yet.
Thanks
With all the new hybrid and electric cars out there,, one of the new options is a electrically driven AC compressor. Would allow putting it in the front and reducing all the plumbing..
Of course removing all the factory AC does allow better airflow through the radiators
Nothing makes a car feel good on track like tossing all the stuff that adds weight
I did a mustang a while back,, we put all the stuff on a pallet we took off the car,,
electrical/seats/interior/sound deadening material was over 500 lbs.. the harness
was too heavy for 1 guy to pick up alone.. Hopefully Porsche does better than that..
I did see the aftermarket a/c units for sale on ebay for about $450. It's an option and my wife would probably rather I put it in but going by the past two summers.... we just never used it. always have the windows down and the music going. saving some weight while keeping it a street car plus the extra hp/tq I'm adding... it would be fun to keep the un-necessary weight out of the car.
I have built a few ac systems and on the last one i looked into a prius compressor. They run on a supper high voltage, > 300V, to keep the aperage down. If u r not driving electric motors with batts they really dont work. I tried running a york style compressor with a 5hp, 120v motor and it stalled the genset out at 55 amps. It takes a fair amount of power and torque to compress.
good post and thank you. So no A/C for this car lol its really not needed. If I was in a southern state maybe but its not really that bad in Michigan in the summer time.
Free to who ever wants it if your local as i dont want to ship. Come get it!!
Speakers are not included. Could sell them but they are very expensive and under a year old so I would want a good proce on them.
So i took the day off from work and this morning I lowered the motor. Separated the trans and after 5 yrs.. finally dug out the adaptor kit. Pretty geeked I finally have something to use it on. Now my garage is crowded.
Question, what are my options for upgrades for this transmission? Anything i can do to boost performance common fixes i should do while its out etc.?
I still have this motor for sale as well. Comes with everything for it i recently put on and i could build a crate to ship if needed.
Sorry if post is sloppy.. on my phone today
Two updates in one day
really surprised how well it�s going. Everything came out easy and mating the adapter plate between the two was a breeze. Im already to the point of lifting it back in for fitment and fab work.
Had to grind away a small amount of casting for the bolts. Also .. note to anyone who buys an adapter kit and lets it sit for five years without writing down the instructions that you got from the maker over the phone it could take a few minutes to figure out how it goes back together lol
also, i am fortunate enough to have my granddaughter with us for a couple days so she supervised with her binoculars todays
lol
Went back to your first post since it's been so long....can't believe it's the same car! You are literally changing everything! You are one crazy ****....don't ever change that.👍
Lol thanks buddy. Always appreciate the motivating comments from you guys!! Best forum on the net
everytime i get a notification that a comment has been made i race here to read it and reply lol this car and forum is my therapy
It fits!!! lots of pics
. Guys if you could have seen the face i was making as it lifted into place.. soo happy and excited. I had a lot of errands to run today so i only got an hour and a half in the garage today but i think i made some great progress. If i'm not mistaking for the LS swap the rear support needs to be cut and modded. this motor shouldn't need that cut made on the rear support(see pic) I am however going to need to cut a 1" hump above the super charger i think for comfort and access. i will make it removable in case i ever need to get to the top of the motor with out having to lower it. I have tons or room on the sides of the motor as well, something like 7 1/2". I plan on leaving it up in the engine bay for now while i make my mounts and cuts and just cover it with some plastic so i hopefully only have to pull it down and out one more time. also the pics from inside the car where the throttle body is seen, i plan on turning straight to the passengers side and out the side of the car where i will make those vents posted up in the thread. I will make a new covering for it as well so you wont see it from inside the car. above it is where i plan on mounting my nitrous bottle. now i just need my motor to sell so i can buy more stuff for it lol
did i mentioned i'm super excited lol
quick question guys, sorry not trying to muddle the thread with simple questions but would like to get some advise on something.
I am making my own front motor mount for the engine. simple design of the factory bracket being bolted straight down like the factory does it under the crank pulley. it will go as such, bracket material then tube steel frame. question is what do you think I should use for my dampening material and how think should it be. Delrin, poly, or rubber? it will be a flat piece of the material with the bracket and steel on either side.
Thanks
Yes and i plan on using those but this is at the point where my new �frame� is connecting to the motor bracket... writing this made me realize i dont need to worry about that because the porsche motor mount deals with the vibrations and not the part that the motor hangs on... sory guys, face palm moment .
lets do it!!!
Actually, I was originally thinking about doing two hyabusa motors lol one for each axle. But I had that adaptor kit (still have another brand new kit in the box as well) sitting around and figured on the 3.8sc. I might do the two busa motors in the costum car I'm making.
As far as turbos... that's already the plan. This supercharger is just the test phase lol I have two GT35's sitting in storage that I will probably swap on there next winter since everything will be tuned and set up for boost I'll just have to make the headers and then I can really put some hp down .. somewhere in the 550 to 650hp range.
I will have no issues with room for accessories and headers/exhaust with this engine. That 7 1/2 inches in the pic is at the furthest c/c point of the motor. Under that point it opens up even more.
What do you think of these two videos? I have been reading and reading and reading for the last 3 days on exhausts... I'm determined to make this set up sound, if not like an exotic race car... UNIQUE. So I've never seen this till these past few days as I've been researching. This is a set up I'm considering, 6-1 headers. Videos below gives you an idea of the sound they can create.
My first option was to try and replicate the Ferrari formula.. I know I know I wont make it sound like a Ferrari but there formula is pretty straight forward. Shorty style headers to an X-pipe(sometimes two chambered) and right after the X to the mufflers and out. Idea to keep the exhaust system as short as possible as well as the pulsing, scavenging.. etc. I wont try and sound like I know the all science behind it, just been reading a lot on it the last little bit.
Then I came across this 6-1 exhaust today... any thoughts on these two set up? You can see in the video somewhere up in the thread I posted where I compared my fiero to my Porsche and the fiero pretty much has the same mufflers as the Porsche and ... night and day so I'm not giving up lol I want it to sound different!!
Thoughts, suggestions, idea, directions to point me in would be appreciated.
You Tube
You Tube
This is like a junior formula setup. I think even for a time Formula 2 was running a similar setup. They may still be, I haven't kept up. Cool stuff - sounds
MEAN
!
im pretty sure i have the room for it.
please explain... so i can look into and adjust if needed. The car is lifted quite high in the back(not sitting level) and the trans is mounted back in the same location and bolted in. It is 3/8 lower at the front of the trans.
From bottom of oil pan to center of crank, this motor is 1� shorter than the 3.4. My axles are about 2� above the sub frame which i think is what they were before as well. All the heat gaurds and bumper off might be throwing it off visually....
... now you got me panicking lol
Moved, lifted, pushed... worked on my engine alignment this morning. Im pretty sure I have center of crank just about perfect.. center line both ways(C/C-U/D).
Thoughts anyone?
What's the distance between the oil pan and the ground?
Have you considered the oil pick up position now that the engine is backwards? I know there where issues early on with the LS conversions in regard to this.
i have 1� more clearance from the ground..the. Porsche motor was closer to the ground if that makes sense.
Oil pick up.. can explain further? Im using the stock pick up with stock pan.
yes it does. But im making a new one for my mounts. Ill share/explain better after im done fabbing it up.
The motor is sitting on the same plane as the engine compartment rails.. in picks in previous post. Looking at the heads from the side and the body line of the frame rails.
Appreciate any errors you guys might find.. say it so i can fix
I seen a porsche at cars and coffee last month that had it with the 4.0 stick on the side and really thought it looked nice. Plus if i do need any clearance ill have it.
flux capacitor with oscillating nuclear core booster ...
I assume its brings in more air but for me... I liked the way it looked when I seen on the platinum motors owner Porsche at the event and thinking ahead if I need to make a little clearance for the supercharger pulley this will give me a little extra. Just thinking out loud and sharing..
With all your other aero mods i dint think it would lokk bad to raise the vents on the frunk lid. Maybe some photoshop work can help some visualize the mod.
I should be able to get a lot more formed tonight and i'll post up another pick. It so quick and easy to change it up using the drywall mud so its not a big deal to go another direction.
I've been waiting on some bushings to get in to work on the motor mount frame so the fiberglass stuff is of focus this week.
Lots of picks, exciting.. not sure. So the motor is now self supported with out the jack. I still need to make my two dogbones up top to keep the motor from twisting but the up/down mounts are quite solid. I used 1/8th square tube steel, my mounts are new Porsche engine mounts, f-250 control arms bushings and poly trans mount that this motor will float on. Hope that made sense. I welded in tubing for the holes drilled through the square tube to help keep it from weakening.
Also finished making my rear spoiler mod buck and now glassing it for my mold. I started on something for the front bumper as well to kind of carry on the look of the side skirts I made, any thoughts?
The picture of the rear bumper like mentioned waaayyy up in the thread about these duraflex parts... they sag and warp. So since this is not my first time working with this product I new after a year in the sun the part would settle so I took it off to straighten a few surfaces out and reinforce them with glass and re-paint. I will be doing the same thing with the front bumper.
Thanks for viewing.
Nice fabrication -you might want to put the rear bumper cover on and get a visual .It is hard to tell from the pictures but that mount looks really low in the back .
The picture is a little misleading. They should be higher then the Porsche bracket that was there, but good point I'll double check.
The best part of that frame I made for me is i'm going to be able to make the exhaust I want now. Shorty headers to X-pipe to 6" shorty then 4" shorty and out. My goal is the short as possible exhaust and try to bring that pitch up for sound. Will it work to get me the sound I want... no idea lol but i'm trying.
Thanks
Hey guys, been kind of slow and probably not a very worthy update but I thought.. why not, I'm bored at work lol
So these picks are of my lack of options. I looked around and couldn't find anyone offering header flanges in mild steel. The only thing I was finding was in stainless and I don't want stainless anywhere for this exhaust. I plan on having it all ceramic coated in a color I haven't yet picked yet. I just don't like how stainless discolors.
Anyway my fix was to take the stock manifolds and cut them up to get the flanges from them. I'm sure welding on them will be a little headache since they are cast but... I'll make it work. I found it interesting to see how much they were choked down from the factory as you can see in the pics. The end result is I opened them up to 1 5/8's which is what my primaries will be to 2 1/2 exhaust after the collectors. I also decided to try different mufflers after watching some more vids on youtube. The dynomax bullets are a little longer and a hair skinnier then the last system I made. I'm hoping the little extra length will give the pulses just a bit more break up time in the chamber before the X-pipe and out the rear.
lastly ... I didn't like the rear spoiler so I ripped it off and started over. this is just the start so bear with me.. it will get better but I think the separation of the vents looks a little more thought out and eye catchy.
Thanks for looking guys, next post should be of headers being made since my supplies finally came in.
That engine cradle seems to be hanging really low at the very back of the car. Any concerns of scraping it when going up on driveways or anything that pitches the nose of the car up?
the mud is just to capture the shape. When i get the shape i put one layer of resin over it. Wax it then make my mold by glassing it. When i get enough coats for a sturdy mold, i pull it off leaving the mud on the car part. Then i can make my part out of the mold. The mud is just knocked off when i pop the mold.
The pic is a little misleading. The bottom of the oil pan is actually 1� higher then the stock motor. The difference is those corners which come straight down vs the porsche plate which looks like an upside down triangle. Im probably going to redo the straight down tubes and put them on a 45� angle toward the center of the bottom engine mount.
Thanks for chiming in guys
So I've been chipping away at small things here and there but my main focus has been the coolant routing and the headers. After those two things are done I think I'll be able to pick up speed.
#1 Picks are some bead rolling I did for some coolant connections and a nice coolant fill point I found at autozone. I'v seen some pretty shoddy installs with the LS swaps having coolant lines, exhaust and wires looking very back yardish. I'm trying... TRYING lol to make this look good as I go.
#2 Picks are of the headers being started. I have a thread going on another site where this motor is built and swapped a lot and after a few discussion on header design.. I'm just going to go with equal length shorty's. The firing order of this engine combined with the X-pipe and short exhaust .. I think its going to do the job. Also I took a close up of the welds on the header flange.. I was a little worried how the steel to the cast would weld being that cast tends to have air in it and is a headache to weld but so far... I think the welds are coming out great.
#3 Pick, lastly is the direction I'm going with the rear spoiler vent. Not putting much time into this yet but a little here and there. What do you guys think of it? I'm liking this a lot more then the first go at it I did.
welds look good .Are you using the Porsche coolant expansion tank ? If yes -why the extra fill cap ? The Porsche cooling system has worked well with my ls6 -the only tricky part is getting the air bubbles out .
I wasn't sure what I was going to do for the tank. Do you have any pics of your layout or perhaps a build thread I could go see?
This motor has a vent/burb valve on the thermostat hose covering so hopefully the air wont be an issue.
Really appreciate you chiming in to say that lol I need all the help I can get.
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Thank you.
So how do you like it? did the extra umph in your car compliment it or hurt? I have a friend that keeps telling me that somehow the swap will make my Porsche handle like a minivan... I cant even come close to understanding his logic lol i'm sure it will hurt the handling A LITTLE but for it to somehow handle worse then the cars these swapped motors came from just seems silly. I'm excited to see how mine handles.
handles fine- really don't understand the minvan comment .The ls engine is lighter than the m96 albeit a bit higher cog .Has more than enough power for my needs and has been extremely reliable .This swap was done 3 years ago .I like it and the only thing I would like is a bit taller gearing ( lower numeric rear end ratio ) .
ya I don't bother debating it with him anymore. I think it will handle just fine. I have the option of going with aluminum heads but I'm going to wait and see how I like this when I'm done. if its awesome I'll swap out the heads and the supercharger for the turbos and make some crazy power. we shall see. regardless, its a pretty light vehicle for the weight I think.
weight diff in which set up? For mine if i read the right data my 3.8 fully dressed is within 20lbs of the 3.4 fully dressed. If i swap to aluminum heads ill shave 66lbs.
Lol kinda like better to keep your mouth shut and have them think your an idiot vs opening it and confirming it lol
so i had a 20 minute window before church this evening and was able to put on another section. Plus ... that my header station lol
If u run into issues with the headers u may want to check out this guys artwork.
https://www.glamisdunes.com/invision...53414-headers/
He has some 3.8l stuff on this thread and his facebook site.
Looks like i may be replacing the 3.5l shortstar in my jeep with a sc3.8l gen111 motor. Looking to get some more low end grunt and some atmosphere when i go up 13k peaks in CO and CA. I may be PMing u later in the year for some advice.
umm .. ya I cant do that lol that's some amazing work right there. I am using a mig welder as well so my welds will never look that good but I'm a back yard weekend mechanic aiming to make happy.. only me lol
When you get into your swap let me know. there is some great web sites I can share with you. I have been working with these motors for quite a few years. I'm not a guru but know enough. It really is a great design and performs great for pennies.
there are more things missing that you even know LOL
yeah we will have to meet up soon, looks like crap weather again this weekend
I have been travelling quite a bit lately, just got back from Germany where I went to the Porsche Museum / Plant tour & driving the Nurburgring
Ill be back in may. Did the museum 2 years ago. Gonna schedule the plant tour and green hell laps this time.
What did u drive on the track? I want to rent a race prep car for 5 laps or so. Any advice would be great.
Hopefully ill be picking up the 3.8 motor in dec, ill be in touch. Thx
Bought mine for $340 if I remember correctly from the junk yard. building it up to the level it is ran me around $3k. All in for this particular swap I'm at $7200. Other then aluminum heads I've done about everything there is to do to this motor.I think I'm for the most part done spending money. Lot cheaper then most LS swaps I've seen.
The series 2 came with 240bhp and the series 3 came with 280bhp( I think) parts are cheap for them and there is an abundance in the junkyards if you blow it up. Its not a fire breathing motor but for the money and in the right application *couch2800lbsporschecough* its a great platform.
just a quick fyi.
Ok hopefully this makes sense. My build recipe is one that has been done a ton of times over on the website i use to research this motor. On top of that recipe i ported from throttle body to exhaust, plus added the �tall stack intercooler� so given those to upgrades apply what you think on top of the recipe. It has consistently dynoed between 340whp and 360whp.
I am hoping to see right around 400whp plus i am using a 75shot of No2.
If you went turbos, they are getting between 500 and 600 whp.
Thats what im thinking and im 100% positive i can get the low end of those estimates. Ive seen a few dyno sheets with those numbers with out the extras im doing. For me, i want 375whp. My goal is 400whp but if i get the 375whp with out the No2 ill be happy.
I was feeling quite proud of the primaries...then i got to the collector. That was hard. I need to clean up the welds and get them coated or painted but .. one is done.
thanks, i should be able to clean them ip a bit.
Not yet, i looked for light from the inside. But i will water test them after I finish the second header.
Who's having as bad of a day as me
just bumped my rear spoiler off the table and busted it up. Wow i could cry... busted off my mold i was almost done with as well. Not sure i can fix it with where it cracked. On a positive note, i save 15% by switching to Gieco. Ok thats not true... my insurance is to high as well awwww!!!, my day now bites.
Second header is done.
They are all equal length within 3/16 and each runner is 6 1/4 long. The collector is 2 1/2 . It doesn�t show it in the picks but after I joined all three runners i cut them together so the exits were exactly the same length. Then put the collector on. ... hope that made sense.
Im working on the Xpipe and shorty mufflers now. Should have them done in a few days.
i still need to clean up welds a bit and then put some color on them.
Nice job on the headers. When I made my exhaust for my Jeep, it was a similar experience. Hence why I want to buy the tubing already bent now, haha!! Bummer about the wing, that's gotta hurt. I'm sure it'll work out for the best in the end though. I'm excited to see you get it running!
Ya the bended tubes make it a lot easier. For a brief second i wanted to do mu own bends and have no welds but then... i smacked myself lol
so the rear spoiler might turn into a gt3rs looking spoiler. Still thinking on it and ya that fall off the table really hurt.... wow what an ultimate kick your self day that was.
Ouch!! Lol hey im not a fab shop.. im guy having fun in his garage .. be nice lol with more bubble gum welds on the way
so i think this will be my X-pipe.
Yep - there are those guys that stand out as experts on everything.
I see them and give them the recognition they deserve.
Keep it coming triple-T. You're a real - outside the box thinking - guy.
no worries, when you do this to a porsche you should expect some razzing
I can laugh at some fun humor and honestly guys/forum you have ALL been so good to me in this thread and I appreciate it very much.
Im keepin on keepin on
so I cut down the dynomax�s as short as i could and like wise the X-pipe. They measured 28 1/2 inches combined with X the turn downs to the exit are going to be sharp angles i think.
The wife and son had an appointment today so i had the evening to myself. I got a lot done today.. had a blast.
Thanks for reading
So a few posts back you guys mentioned how low the engine frame was hanging down. Its not that it was down vs the angle it was coming and how far back it was. So last night I started making new down braces for the rear of the frame. I ran out of shielding gas so had to stop but as soon as those are done(tonight) I should have some picks of that plus the exhaust system which is almost done as well.
Once those to things are done its time to pull the motor back out and start doing all the small stuff and will hopefully speed up. Seems like this part is taking longer then it should. I must be slacking somewhere...
+1
Ttt is my hero.... I couldn't dream of doing 1% of his capabilities...doing all this yourself in the garage is amazing which is what makes this my favorite thread to follow. Keep it coming ttt
Loupue my hero.... I couldn't dream of his lamborghini...having that in my garage would be amazing which is what makes him my favorite car to look at. Keep it coming :bowdown lol one day
thanks loupue... best forum and members ever
ya but do you realize how many times I get frustratingly smacked by my wife
i will take you up on that if we come that way
self taught on just about everything ive done in this thread. Iv been sitting behind a computer for 23 years and honestly no worries in calling out my less than pro welds. Its all about having fun with our cars so good or bad, thank you all for the comments
Maybe I was too harsh with my comment. Sorry. You should find someone that can show how to do it and then grab a bunch of scrap and start welding them to practice. You don't want to learn welding on the parts that you are going to actually use. Welding is something that needs to be shown or else you will never correct the mistakes that you pick up from trying to learn it on your own. I see you've made an engine cradle too, parts like that are important structural/safety elements. You don't want them to fall apart on the highway because the welds are poor. If in doubt, reinforce the crap out it and that will help to make the weak welds stronger. Also, before you put the pipes on the engine, fill them with water or better yet, varsol to see if they are leaking.
I actually met him when I was in college!
He was the honorary judge at the annual Popsicle stick bridge competition around '95. Used to be one of my favorite TV shows!
Few years ago I worked with a man from Canada who new him quite well and told me about some of there conversations. Pretty much said his humor was the real deal and that he was hilarious to chat with and that he was actually a very smart man. I enjoy watching him on youtube.
For the record.. he would love my welds
now that was funny lol
Should have taken a better pick .. sorry. If you zoom in you can see i cut the bumper out some. Im not done, the bumper is going to get reworked. Just wanted to get that exhaust down so i can finish all the welding.
Im off to such a slow start. There is sooo much more thats gonna happen this winter. Really needed to get past this exhaust because it was holding up a lot.
Thanks for chiming in guys.. i love to hear the feedback.
Some input please..
so i had some lettering made up and curious about opinions. On the back its going to say �Swapped
911�
3.8sc will be at the bottom behind the front tires on both sides.
See the pics ... I think I should have the �911� redone to match the lettering style of the �swapped� any input is appreciated.
I also have the subframe and cross member finished and painted. Motor is coming back out so i can do the wire harness.
Finally, today i started ripping out the interior. I have some electrical questions to ask but ill wait till i get a little further into it.
going slow it seems, been so busy woth life lately kinda getting discouraged with my progress
oh ill get done
I'm not a fan of the font.
I thought it say "Lwapped."
I'd find a better, and more readable from a distance, font for "Swapped" and "911."
Why not use Porscha font. (It looks like the font that Porsche uses)
https://www.google.com/search?q=pors...=1987&bih=1055
Lamborghini dash is happening!! Before you hate it... this pic is just me being impatient. A very quick dry fit so please bare with me. I see all the same cringe you do, it still has to drop down about 6� and back about 6� as well and all that but ill get there
last couple of days i pulled the dash out and then yesterday morning after it was out i had one of those life moments where you face palm and think �what in the world did i get myself into� lol but its done and im moving forward. Everything came out amazingly well and nothing broke so dash parts will be for sell when im done if anyone needs anything.
Stay tuned
Lots of pics and I'm done for a while.. going in for surgery this Friday
having hernia surgery so probably wont do much for a bit.
So rear speaker pods are for the most part done other then sanding and covering them with leather, not sure if I'm going to go with green leather or black leather.
I took the time to refinish the leather on the rear panels and paint the seat belt caps green. I used the two products shown to do this.
so that perfectly good condition dash is no more perfect... I cut it up lol but its working great fro what I'm doing with it. the lower section is allowing me to have a factory look covering for the lower portion of the dash and the upper parts where the speaker are will be my mounting points for the dash up at the front windshield. This is going to save me a TON of time and I'm excited about it. once I get this dash physically secured with bolts I will start on the pretty work for the dash and start making my new center console.
Thanks for looking guys and MERRY CHRISTMAS, Jesus is the reason for the season
If I'm not back anytime soon. recovery will determine that.
Brian
oh ya I also have the rear spoiler mod done and ready to pop the part tonight.
thank you
I will probably be bored sitting around on the couch and might need someone to drive there new Porsche over so I can gawk at it...just sayin lol
Thanks
thank you tons for chiming in! Im sitting around with cabin fever with this surgery
... holy shark farts batman!!! Hernia surgery HURTS!! Did not expect this kind of pain, definitely caught me off guard.
Hopefully back at it soon. My rear compartment speakers came in.. alpine type R all around and wow are they cool. Also had some glowshift gages start showing up... this is gonna work guys lol
It had better work, Brian! You’ve literally busted a gut getting to where you are. I know...try not to laugh. But seriously, don’t overdo and get healed. Happy holidays!
Take time to heal and don't rush the project, brother. We're all excited to see you finish, but let's be honest, we aren't going anywhere
Hope you feel better soon!
lol soo true
thanks, im taking it easy.
I never thought ice in my underwear would be desirable.... love it right now lol just takes some time.
Best forum ever!!!
Praying for healing!
The hardest part of hernia surgery recovery for me was sitting on the sofa and not venturing into the garage when I felt completely healed but wasn’t.
Don't rush it!
I took a self paced online course. (Scannerdanner)
thats a great idea... ill look into that. Sitting around is driving me crazy. Im going back to work monday, had to argue with the dr. He said i need at least two weeks but my job is a programmer sitting all day so he reluctantly obliged lol. I sat in the garage today and did some light sanding on my speaker pods. Moving slow and taking it easy as best i can.
take care of it,, I have 2 friends that got two active two quick, the consequences are very short on fun..
Each time you re-injur its 2x the time to heal, one of them ended up out of comission for about 3 months cause he tore some stitches..
thanks. I am moving slow and not lifting anything. We got my son some remote control cars for Christmas. So ill probably be his best friend for the next two weeks playing with him lol
Take your time. I had a three level fusion (12/07 then removal of the fasteners 10/08) on my lower back (nightmare) and went back to work to soon. I'm regretting it today!
Trust me, they grow up fast and you will miss the days when you "little buddy" wants to play with you. Enjoy every minute you can with your son.
Have speedy recovery
eek, point well taken. Doc said most importantly was not to lift anything so im adhering to that.
ya Hes our little miracle child. Wife was told she could never have any and after 6 years of marriage she became quite top heavy ... i was like �sweet� lolol she was like �umm not do fast� went to dr and she was almost 4 months along. He has been sooo fun now for 10years. Happy and healthy.. we are blessed.!
Well... cars are a close second lolol
today we are celebrating Christmas(wife works for eve Christmas day) so last night was our Christmas eve and lol we got jr with santa last night. Woke him up for a glimpse of santa putting presents under the tree.. at 9 yrs old it was hilarious watching him through logic of how this could be happening
pretty sure this is the last year he will be gullible enough to pull it off lol
VERY cool what you are doing to this car! Any plans for custom speaker work on the front door panels? I am looking for ideas for 6x9s up there.
Also, still loving the fact that your kids are involved in this project!
Keep up the good work!
i am. Im still working the rears but im planning on 6.5 or 6 in the front doors. Read a lot of reviews and just sold on the round speakers for looks and noir level with cross overs. I will post pics on the pods i make for them. Im also doing 6� under the seats and 3� in the dash. The pic attached is where im at so far with the rears.
I love the work you are doing. I was particularly interested because my current Porsche is a '99 996. I thought you might like it because it had the turbo body conversion when I bought it. I bought it as a track car with a blown engine and a transmission that needed rebuilding. My nephew, who was building 996 race cars at the time, let me work with him for over a year putting the interior back, removing the cage, putting in an engine we swapped for, streetable shocks, new wiring harness, and getting it back to street. This is fuzzy, I reduced resolution to minimum, or at least tried to do so.
This is my fourth Porsche, and I really do like driving it. Actually while I loved the SC and the 930, and wish I had never sold any of them, this is a great daily driver.
1980 911SC Targa in Casablanca Beige
1983 930 steel slant nose conversion in Black (Darth Vader's personal wheels) - Grey market import
2014 Cayman in Silver
1999 996 conversion in Silver (above)
that is a beautiful car sir!! Im going to be putting in some side scoops but I haven�t decided which ones yet or custom... probably custom lol i like �ruff� side scoops i posted way up in the thread somewhere but we shall see.
Thanks for sharing that pic
Mine were installed as non-functional. I had a body shop doing work, but ran out of money before they got the side scoops off and the intermediate material cut out. I will be very interested to see what is required to open those up, and what is in the way. If there is a post on that, I would appreciate a referral. The new front scoops are functional to the forward coolers
I tried putting this all into one post but it refreshed and all got deleted. So I'll do it with a few. This will be 1 of 4 ... i got lots done so gimme a few hours or a day or so and i'll get all the pics loaded up.
I couldn't stay on the couch so I went in the garage and did some easy stuff. Nothing to hard, mostly stuff i could sit and do.
so this post will of the dash board progress.
started out with the section i cut from the porsche dash. I used some guerilla glue to stick the fabric to it which gets f-glass over that which is stretched to the rearward side of the dash facing the seats... hope that made sense.
this pic is where i worked with the end of the dash. this was a concern for me as to how i was going to transition from the curves to the sides where the doors meet. so i bent these steel rods to the shape i wanted and stretched the fabric over them.
This was stretching the fabric and putting my first coat of resin on it.
It looks like a mess but its actually coming out quite nice so far. keep in mind this is the dirty part... it will get pretty.
Next post will be of the center console.
so the console started out as some display board from the local hobby shop. I'm not 100% settled on if i'm going to go fiberglass or wood but either way it will be covered with leather.
The new console will be wider and taller. I want to create more of a cockpit feel like my c4 vette had which i really enjoyed. i'm also going to ram it up toward the dash like the newer porsches and lambos. you will see more of how i'm doing that in the nex post with the shifter mod.
the console will have an I-pad hook up/station in the rear from my son, cup holders in the middle for my wife since she hated the porsche console and more arm room for me. I do plan on incorporating the porshe buttons as well.
I want to lift the shifter so its closer to the steering wheel and closer to my reach(I'm a short little pudgy guy) so to do that I made a bracket and lifted it 4.5 inches. The pics basically show the progression of how I did it. I was going to lift the emergency brake lever as well because i thought it was going to create a pinch for my shift cables but it ended up clearing ok. also threw on some random paint just to keep any rust from getting under there.
last pic shows everything bolted back down. I have the short shifter already so i think its going to feel good to shift in the new location. the bracket is extremely stiff so i dont anticipate any issues with it.
This stereo is going to be amazing!!!!! love how these came out. i still have two more sets to make but here is the rears basically done. i'm waiting of my grills(green) to come in from amazon and then i'll get these mounted back in the car. every speaker set has its own crossovers and separate tweeters. should be super clear, very oud and the 3000watt single sub in the back will provide more then enough bass needed. plus i have some small speakers for under the seats for some butt vibrations lol yes you read that right.. going to be an 18 yrs olds dream stereo system.
oh i tried to texture the paint... if it doesnt grow on my i might repaint them in flat black.. we'll see.
so the spoiler ..... this has been a headache(up in thread.. this fell on the floor and cracked pretty good) plus i've had to make these vents twice. so first and second pic is of the lab joint and the part sitting on it for fitment. the thirds pic.. you can see lol.
The forth pic, notice the bondo under the lettering? when i bought the car it had two cracks under in the paint in those locations so i sanded them out and repainted but they came back. i thought maybe it was a chemical that was seperating the paint embedded in the glass but turns out it was the seem at the tangent had seperated(look in picks) so i rebondoed it but added some resin to my bonda to thin it out and let it seap into the crack real good. hopefully it wont crack again. if it does... i'm going big fat and tall aftermarket gt style wing and getting rid of this taco wing.
oh ya almost forgot about this pic.. my speedo came in. more on the way. I really like the look of them. they illuminate green, so the color scheme will match the car green/black
I wish I had half your energy lol
i have been unmodding my C2 to sell, finally I have everything done except the interior
then time to start the turbo mods, sadly nearly nothing from the C2 works
i dont feel like i have energy.. the incision keeps swelling up and my friends down below feel like feel like there in a vise
but... i cant sit on this couch.
i really am trying to move very slow and not lift. All the stuff i did these last three days was pretty simple stuff.
Thanks tho
And my wife thinks I am hyperactive....Your slow is my overdrive! The stuff you are doing...is out of control...makes the mods to my 996 looks sophomoric....my late friend Bruce Leven of racing and custom car lore used to tell me to "make the car your own!" YOU HAVE AND ARE DOING THAT! Just don't kill yourself doing it and take it easy....we need your posts on this forum for years to come!
lol thank you sir. Bruce had my kind of thinking. Life is so short so you might as well try and fit some fun in there somewhere.
Yesterday my son took a step back and stared at the interior.. thought for a quick moment and turned to me and said �dad, this really is cool how you made this� .... memory created
Not sure if you guys have seen the guy building a 3D printed Aventador with his son, reminded me of you Brian
lambo commercial
You Tube
their YouTube channel
https://www.youtube.com/user/lasersterling
Totally....I took the simple route....my son and I disassembled at totaled GT3 4 years ago...sold off the parts. The good part was no talent was needed since we didn't have to put it back together again! Unlike ttt123 and the lambo guy who are oozing with talent. That lambo video was awesome and their experience with Lamborghini is so true. I can only complement the graciousness of the local dealership and factory....unlike anything I have ever experienced for any other dealer by a long shot...including Ferrari, Porsche, and others.
i would love to get my hands on a totaled exotic and just have fun with it. I tried once. Joined that popular website all those youtubers advertise about and put a bid on a ferrari. Showed no one else was bidding on it so i thought i had it. Bid ended and it said i lost, i called them up and they said �you dont get to see the other bids�.... huh. Took me for a $100 bid fee.. Never again.
Just a quick update.. was going to wait a bit till I had done more work but ... I'm bored at work and a big shipment of stuff came in last night which really got me excited. I have gotten a lot more done but its all behind the scene stuff that isn't that exciting. hopefully my next post will have some carbon fiber, leather, dash wrap etc stuff in it.
parts that came in
gauges
speaker grills
keyless/alarm kit
green illuminated cup holders
green/black carbon fiber weave
"Massive" subwoofer
New pioneer head unit
kicker dash speakers.. might swap them for the alpine TR like the rest of the speakers but these were rated to be loud and small ... we'll see.
These pics are of the console design. don't fret ... it will look good when done. also building a lightweight steel frame on the underside of all of it. My son really enjoyed this part of the build. he had fun mocking up the panels. you know they are enjoying it when they are taking picks in there reindeer pajamas lol
This hump in the rear is where a 6" "Massive" sub is going pictured at the bottom.
This is the Green/black carbon fiber weave for the top of the console and the gauge cluster facing. might put some on the door handles to... not sure yet. it looks amazing.. cant wait to see it on.
This is the key mod i had to make for the new dash. i bought a keyless kit so this is not set in stone yet but regardless i needed to make some surface there. this is just the buck shown here. I've already made the mold and should be popping it tonight and then i'm going to dig into the ignition wires and see if this keyless/alarm kit (pictured below) will work.
hope the post was worth it and not a bore.
Thanks for looking guys.
Carbon fiber is on!! ... some parts. please share your opinions.
So this is just the parts sitting in place, nothing is bolded down yet and all the layers of clear are not on the carbon fiber yet. the spot where my elbow would rest has 2 layers and I plan on doing 3 plus wet sand and buff. I also have
not
installed any of the buttons that will be going in the center console
yet
as well.
This is my first attempt at laying the carbon fiber and it is a different animal for sure vs fiberglass. Plus this center console is really busting my tail..a lot ... LOT harder then I thought it would be. Really bringing me down with how long this portion is taking me. I'm dying to get past this and onto the dash but I need the console to have a lot of behind the scene stuff as I will be running a hefty wire harness through it to the pcm for my stand alone set up. Plus after going through the paint job a little to fast, I really want to take my time and make this interior look production vs back yard mechanic.
Oh and wrapping leather so it looks good....
holy smokes that's hard and takes some serious patience. Any advice for this stuff I appreciated. The inside corners are brutal.. I think this is the first post I've made were I've whined ... sorry lol
Ok so pictures below, again this is just the first set of pictures.. not the finished parts. Laying the fiber with the special resin(not fun), Sides of the console has the padding and leather wrapped, glued and stapled. I purchased the softest leather I could find and its .. really nice stuff. wish my pillow was made from this leather. The carbon fiber parts is just sitting on the sides panels. When its finished you wont see the sides of the top(carbon fiber parts) The sub fits nicely at the rear of the console and I also made my steel frame for the radio and heater control.
no!! lol gimme some input. Its straight lines and angle vs curves and radius's like the dash and the body. Plus that carbon fiber is beautiful but I cant help but think... Christmas when I look at it lol
This console is taking me for a loop kinda pulling my hair out with it.
Ultra modern angular look. I understand. No mistaking for stock. Proportions will be important but this is starship style. Lambo modular flavor. Sand and buff. Let's see it!
the size.. I wanted it bigger as I didn't like how small the stock was and how I didn't feel snugged into the cockpit sorta say. the boxy-ness of it.. ya that's where I'm struggling. I wanted it to ramp up with curves vs angles but as I got into it more and more I doubted my skills to pull that look off. I'm not set in stone with it yet... we shall see.
sanding and buffing to come probably in about 2 weeks after I finish the little sub box leather wrap and finish my bracketry underneath. If I don't change it up at that point I'll cover it up and move on to the next area to bang my knuckles over.
This thread is great, thanks for posting so much detail.
You could ramp up and curve by flanking the console with leather panels that come up just higher than the carbon fiber surface. A bit like the below photo in the way it curves up. By having the side panels a little higher than the top surface, it should look a little more 'integrated'. The added thickness of leather padded sides might mean you need to narrow your current carbon fiber width to maintain the correct overall width including the sides.
Think this is a 2018 911:
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the input. I've been busy remodeling a bedroom in out house this last week so haven't done anything but I am tossing around ideas for this console.
Thanks
well since the surgery I've finished off the basement, built a new sound booth for our church and finished up the remodel for our master bedroom tonight.... i think im taking it easy lol. Although i do think I've done a little damage. The seroma under the scar is still more swollen then it should be and i keep getting sharp pains... ill ask the dr next time i go. I have carpet coming tomorrow and a few trim pieces to put up then hopefully back to the porsche.... i wont lie.. the wind is a little out of the sails for the porsche since this center console build... definitely harder then I thought it would.
Thanks guys.
another post with tons of pics but probably not that interesting. I always fear making these posts as they are not the most entertaining but I do want to try and log everything I'm going. I have done a ton of stuff but its all the small details like mounting points, re-fabbing the dash in a lot of ways/areas, and just the under surface stuff. so like said before ... sorry if this post is lame.
These pics are about a week old and I am further along but don't have them on my phone at the moment. like the rear wing mod is just about done so i'll post those up next week probably before I paint it.
Picks:
the first set is of a glove box I made.. wife needed a glove box lol. nothing to crazy but it will have a flip down cup holder in the door, a phone charger in the rear wall of it and i'm just going to upholster it with something like a felt ... how in the world do you spell felt.. phelt..anyway. Notice Jr applying some resin lol that was his first time doing some of the messy work.. he had fun.
next set is of the keyless mod. side note.. if anyone knows where I can find some schematics of the ignition wires .. that would be helpful. The Porsche key location falls into the Lamborghini gauge location so I have to fill it and recurve the gauge panel. that's what your seeing and accommodating for the flush mount keyless unit.
Next set is of some simple speaker pods i'm making for under the seats. nothing special just something to help shake the car a little bit lol all speaker components are made with the fiberglass so very lightweight. I want the absolute best sounding 996 on the road lol I love my music on a nice summer day with the windows down on a country road with my wife. When we cruise in the thumb here in Michigan the roads are long and quiet and the drive with some fun music makes up both smile
last set is the 3rd layer of carbon fiber applied to the center console... haven't even wet sanded it and buffed it yet and it looks amazing!! I will say .. carbon fiber is not like fiberglass. if your going to attempt real carbon fiber practice on a junk part cuz they are to very different animals. This was my first attempt at carbon and I'm happy with it so far... oh and crazy expensive
ok i'm done for now. more to come in a week or two.
wow
!! that link has everything, thank you so much.... does anyone know how to read wiring diagrams ?
lololol that's gonna take a little bit to get my head around all that but I'll figure it out.. I think lol
My goal is to get as much of the wiring out of the vehicle(with out cutting) as possible and run as much as I can off of direct power and the pcm I have for the motor... not sure that made sense the way I said it ... anyway I'm just going to enjoy watching me mess this up to a sick, nasty rockin car lol
At first glance the wiring diagrams are daunting .However Porsche makes it somewhat easier in that most wires are uniquely color coded .I am sure you have thought of this but a big poster board of circuits to eliminate and circuits to add in the long run saves time .
It's not so bad. But not as clear as say a Ford Wiring diagram, IMO.
The numbers on the end of a line on the diagrams where it attaches to a box/module is the pin number, so you can identify wires that way as well as colour. Go by pin number when possible instead of colour, I say.
Awesome built! Wish I had your talent, and love seeing all the updates. Glad you're getting some quality time with your boy, too. He'll remember them forever — ask me how I know, ha ha!
More pics. The pics I didn't have on my phone yesterday when I posted are below. the speaker pods for under the seats, the rear deck lid and a few of the dash.
So the rear deck lid is pretty much done as far as the hard stuff. I just need to smooth out the transitions and the edge of the vent openings. about 20minuts of sanding and I'll be ready for primer.
The dash is going to be covered in leather so don't let the mess scare you. I need to work the radio area a little bit and smooth in the new key spot. if you look at the ends of the dash(circled in red) those were down about 2" to match up to the Lamborghini doors but I brought them up to match the Porsche doors. I will still be able to use the Porsche dash speaker pods which will help it look more .. professional lol and also make my carbon fiber inlay for the gauges. Another couple weeks and I'm hoping to be ready to start making the leather wrap.
Thanks for the tip. as soon as I'm past the dash I'm tackling the wiring.. fingers crossed.
will do and thank you
Thanks, jr is learning skills(doesn't even know it) that will help him through his whole life. He's learning how to create
This thread is my diary and love all the feedback.. I'll keep on keepin on and posting about it
Picks
both can be found on ebay. Just do a search for �porsche 996 headlights� then sort from lowest to highest price and youll have plenty to choose from. If I remember correctly mine were around $900 (probably mentioned up in the thread somewhere� and they have had no issues. The same can be done for the bumper. Just look under exterior, body kits and a few different designs will pop up.
I love this bumper so much i had it on my boxster as well. Looks sleek and aggressive. But keep in mind the patience it takes to install them. These ebay bumper will come will flaws that will need to fixed. You can see what all i did up in the thread.
Thanks
brian
quick update with some pics. Put the first coat of primer on the rear tail so I could start chasing down the waves and imperfections also to get a better look at the symmetry and make fixes. Its coming out ok .. I think.
Painted the black on the rocker and added the 3.8sc in there. very anxious to attack this paintjob and get it looking proper. going to add some more black accents as well.
Finally, the Dash topside is just about done and smoothed out ready for leather but I still have a lot of work to do on the face and the radio area in particular. I went and bought a really nice ...material bonding apparatus.. my wife teased me and called it a "sewing machine" but I corrected her and informed her men don't buy those
I bought a heavy duty singer intended for leather and canvas so this should be interesting.
It has 23 different thread patterns and a laser that can shoot down incoming missiles and they occasional BMW owning Porsche critic
My first attempt is going to be that center console subwoofer wrapped in leather... crossing my fingers.
... Material bonding apparatus
Ya I attempted to wrap the sub last night.. didn't go so well. I'm gonna do some playing around with this for a bit before I go for the end result. I do have some vinyl to play with.
Thanks you
yesterday i was able to get some time in the garage and managed to get the mold for the cluster inlay, one of my rear bumper exhaust exits started. Also put the last coat of resin on two of the carbon fiber parts.
Slow but fun
So yesterday morning before church I went out and glassed the cluster inlay for my mold. Also tried some textured paint for the sub that goes between the two front seats. I think it looked better in matte but I clear coated it because I was worried about having to clean. Also started doing some wiring for the console features... then off to church
Also had my fuel logs come in along with an intercooler fill tube.
Getting closer to completion
Any suggestions on how to treat this. this is where the steel flare bonds to the fiberglass part (side skirt) It cracked at this spot and rather then recoat it with bondo as it will likely crack again I figure I'd just put a visible seem but I don't want it to look goofy. I was thinking possible a piece of plastic glued in on either the top or bottom and just paint over it so its less visible.
Any thoughts?
finally pulled the parts made for the rear bumper and new exhaust exits off the mold last night. they still need to be cleaned up and shaped some more but its headway.
I was able to pop the mold for the cluster inlay as well. it came out very nicely which is good as I need the surface to be vary smooth and without any blemishes so the carbon fiber part I make from the mold doesn't need any work when I pop it. Also cut the hole for the headlight switch.
had to rework a little of the rear deck-lid mod as the symmetry was a little off but for the most parts it just about ready for paint.
slow but sure.
Every time I pop in here there�s more impressive work
nice job!!
Where did you snag that engine start switch? I use a momentary rocker right now and would like something like that to really finish the look.
Thank you sir. Things are moving a little faster now that I've spent 2 months doing a bunch of small things that weren't worth posting pics about. there is a ton of behind the scenes things I've been working on and now that stuff is fading out and I can get to the fun stuff.
That keyless system is on amazon and I'm not sure if its even going to work.. I am just determined to make it lol with my stand alone set up, I figure I can rig it up regardless. its only $22 and there is actually quite a few options out there for these.
This is a link to it.
https://www.amazon.com/BANVIE-Anti-Thief-Immobilizer-Keyless-Protection/dp/B076BCX85B/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GC97G94ZBWG6&keywords=keyless+start+ignition+kit&qid=1583856350&sprefix=keyless+start+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/BANVIE-Anti-Thief-Immobilizer-Keyless-Protection/dp/B076BCX85B/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GC97G94ZBWG6&keywords=keyless+start+ignition+kit&qid=1583856350&sprefix=keyless+start+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-4
Brian
Will do. I'll try and document thoroughly how I set it up.
So last night I was able to finish up the shaping of my drywall mud to form the buck for my front bumper mod. Then wax it and start making my mold. I think it will add a little depth to the front bumpers curves/smooth look.. imo. Also the width of this mod is not necessarily to be flashy but more so to go with the 1/2 inch lip theme I made for the side skirt.
Since I had the resin and glass out I made the driver side rear bumper mod as well. Should be able pop this one tonight when i get home and then I'm off on finishing up that rear bumper.
Then tried laying the carbon fiber on the cluster inlay mold with some very smooth plastic in-between. applied the clear resin to the back side. I'm not in any way a guru at carbon fiber and this is the first project I've done with it so just kind of trial and error with this part of it. If this part pops the way I need it to, I will then apply some resin to the opposite side and insert it into the dash.
lastly .. don't leave a $30 gallon of gelcoat unattended for a year... it will go bad sad
3m 5200 might work for the fender flare to skirt separation .I used it to bond side skirts about 3 years ago and has held up fine .I used adhesion promoter and flexible primer before final top coat .
yes frustrating. funny thing is the gallon I've had open and using for the last year has not dried out. the gallon I just opened for the first time last night...
lol
The attaching to the bumper will be done using a "lab joint"(shown further up in the thread) method. I have done that so far with all my glass parts and its seemed to work well.. so far and fingers crossed lol
ohhh lol sorry.
The wheel flare and the side skirt are both attached really well but the seam i bondoed over is what cracked... i need to think this one out for sure. Ill take some pics of the other side to better describe it. Both sides did it.
I wish someone made flares to turn a 996 narrow body into wide body. In the 80s I bought a pair of original Porsche RS flares to turn my narrow body 1970 911S into a Carrera RS... it turned out very good. The kits they make for the 996 do not look original wide bodies.
Coronavirus quarantine update!! Im in Michigan and basically out if a job for three weeks so I'm in the garage getting caught up on my severely neglected project.
Finished rear deck lid. Before wet sand and after wet sand and clear.
Also posting an update video to my YouTube channel in a few hours of a walk around of the car and explaining whats going on.
also finished my under seat speaker pods and attached my exhaust exit parts to the rear bumper. I have a lot of elbow work to put into those.
Has anyone on Rennlist installed those? I want some hips on my C2!
ttt123, your fiberglass and paint work looks good! Where did you learn? I have some dings in my 996 I need to remove and it needs paint!
Check put my latest update video
You Tube
i was wondering the same thing. My drivers side air scoop i make over the wheel well i might have just dump into the engine bay to move air.
thanks
self taught.. trial and lots of error lol
pm me if you need something painted. I have worked on quite a few Porsches in the last three years since getting the 911. local owners and a few members from this site as well.
All about the rear deck lid. Let me know what you think, did I do good or bad.
so I'll put the comments above each picture to explain what I did today.
This is some of the surface before I set sanded and buffed.
This is the surface after I wet sanded it with 2000 grit
This is a contrast of the lower section where the sticker goes after wet sand/buff and the upper where I had just sanded.
This is after I buffed the vents surface
This is the surface where I put the sticker after wet sanded and buffed.
All put back together.
The sticker.... like.. no like ?
Any thought or idea on how I should place my gauges? Should I take some out and put them on the A-pillar?
Dash is getting real close. I have some poly on it right now and when I hardens I should be able to do my final dry fit and finally make my radio bezel and start putting it all together.
X10!!!! I'm so far behind because of stuff that has come up this winter. I probably wont have it out till mid summer now providing I don't have any major hang ups.
bunch more pics.
I try
little redundant but different in that this is the last dry fit for the dash and console. now that I have my radio location cut out, my steering wheel area cover made(not shown yet) and my corners good I can do that last few adjustments and start doing my wiring and then all the pretty work. my console as well is to the point where I can start running wires and making my final anchor mounts. once I get past this dash which took me way longer then I thought it would and was a lot harder then I thought it would be I should be able to start cruising a bit faster.
Can anyone help me understand how to wire up an aftermarket window switch it is a five prong like the factory but when I take a test light to the factory plugs I�m getting no power from anywhere this is definitely my weak point could really use some advice
https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=54416
thats pretty cool
on a sidenote the Porsche is getting stored for a little bit the lockdown has pretty much cost me my job for a while so I�m doing my carpentry business on the side again so I won�t have much time to work on it .
I put the rear spoiler on it cleaned it up and I�m covering it with plastic tonight I will post updates when I get back into it thanks guys
Life is what you make of it. Great lesson for my son �daddy why do you still have to go to work if everybody staying home?�because that�s what her dad does
i�m fortunate enough to be working in vacant homes by myself so I�m not a risk to the public or my family. Just doing my best to make some lemonade during this
thanks GTX I�m blessed to have skills I�ve picked up over the years to fall back on I�ve also picked up a fellow members Porsche to paint over the next three weeks as well hopefully this all irons out quickly and we�re all back to normal soon.
unfortunately my Porsche will probably not be driven this summer but that�ll give me incentive to slow down and do things nicer for next summer. it all works itself out in the end
I may be able to help you with the window wiring. I had to create an account on here to respond to this but if you look me up on facebook "Bomber Baum" and message me on there we can do some testing. Ive been a certified and professional 12v technician since I was 20. Id love to chat with you about your motor as well
Hey Brian
it sucks about work
we have laid off a crapload of people as well, I have not gotten laid off but we were forced salary cuts similar to what GM done, hang in there man
For the switch it’s a latching relay so it’s a little more complicated, the latching part means it stays on so you can press the window the whole way down vs holding it. So you will need to find out what your switch does and if it has those features and the logic / pin outs to match up.
For the stock one I am going to assume the layout is like this but not sure but at least it shows the pinout numbers so you can see 1-5
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-hack-mod.html
then have a look at how it works on this thread, the pinout placement is different but I suspect the numbers match up to yours so the explanation should still work
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...schematic.html
if you can tell us the switch you got and the part number / what it’s used for /from we can probably help figure it out. If it wasn’t for this Covid thing I would come help you. After that’s over I will gladly help you if you are still having issues.
Thanks Tekkie, I will check out the links and see if I can find the info on the switches I purchased. I know they were nothing special, just some cheap ones off ebay but they illuminate green so... I was forced to buy them
Well im still furloughed from work so ive been keeping an income coming in as best i can. Rehabbing homes in Detroit and painted a fellow members cayenne. He swapped the twin turbo motor into it and had some upgrades done and im just about done with the paint job.
hope everyone is staying healthy and safe.
my Porsche is still covered
howdy all, remember me? well after a couple months of furlough and doing carpentry to keep the $ flowing in. then some time to finish up the pool project at my house(pics below) I am finally back to working on the green meany.
To be honest I came real close to throwing it up on craigslists because it was just killing me to see it under a tarp sitting in my garage with so many other projects on my plate. but under fear of revolt from my son.. I didn't lol
so getting back into this.. i'm so lost
I pulled out all the parts that need to be put on and fab up to try and get my head wrapped around what I have going on and ya its gonna be a head ache.
So this is the pool area I finished. built the slide and jump platform, brick oven, tiki car/bbq area, Jacuzzi set up, fence etc. had a fun time doing this and my family loves it. all that cement was poored with a small cement mixer and a 5 gallon bucket poured by me lol that was a job.
best toes ever lolol
also does anyone want these parts? its stuff I don't need want and with my very limited space i'd hate to throw them away as I have done with some of my Porsche parts. I can throw them in a pox if you pay shipping and maybe a little $tip donation to my build.
that pool area looks amazing Brian !
Dont you just love when you come back to a project and its like what the heck have i done and what is all of this crap? ... what is this part? where the heck does this thing go? I dont remember ever seeing this... is this even for this project? lol
you know i didnt even think of it until now but is anyone going to the 1/2 mile event in Marion IN this weekend? a few of us from work are going down there for it
Thanks, that pool area is a blast. the jump platform is 4ft tall and so far is everyones favorite when they come over. having your feet 4ft up in the air when you jump really gives the kidos an excitement lol interesting how..as I get older I find so much more joy in watching my son, granddaughter and kids smile and laugh. my wife and I just sit back and watch everyone enjoy the pool and feel very blessed.
this project.. ya I wont lie the wind is out of my sails lolol I actually looked at caymans last night thinking.. I might go buy one in a month or two. But I don't want to give up on the 911, just wow its a big undertaking and the last few months being out of it.. really set me back mentally. plus I still have a built audi tt sitting in my drive way I was going to build up(more) for my wife that needs my attention.
just takes time.
I know the feeling man i modified a previous car for 3 years in my garage with an engine swap etc and if it had not been for the fact that its near impossible to sell when its in a million pieces i would have ditched it
Thank you!!! love to hear all this work was worth someone liking it
I really... really miss getting to drive it this summer. I'm really hoping I can get the gumption up to finish this before next summer.
Tekkie, I thought the same thing lololol When I had my moment of weakness and considered selling it.. I thought .. hmm I have as of now all in $32k into this car and I don't think I will need to spend any more. but to sell it as is... $15 probably .. I just cant do it lol
i'm not.. i'm a trooper. i'm about to get back at it pretty hard in the next couple of weeks. I have a body kit I promised a young guy in my church I was going to paint and install for him and that should only be a week or so and then .. 911 here I come
lol
Glad your getting back to it, Brian. Pool looks fantastic! Get your 911 back on the road and you won’t sweat the two-seat Cayman so much. Big projects and little both only require one tiny step to get going again. You got this!
Thanks. I found some pics of before we started working on it. these pics is before the pool house I built which has a 4x8 changing room, 4x8 kitchen and 4x8 storage. brick oven, bar, all the retaining wall. Jacuzzi and cement deck. also the new sheds in the back of the finished pictured and also you can see the dull grey paint on the house. all that cement, retaining wall and .. uhg .. it was a lot. So far we have spent $80k in updates on this house. hoping to sell next spring.
my wife and I have done all this our selves with no help lol remodeled the entire inside of the house as well most of it down to the studs. we have an upstairs bathroom to finish and an entertainment center i'm building in the basement and we will be done!! plus I did the paint job for my boxster and the green Porsche stuff.. oh and we just bout a jet boat that I refinished all the seats on the last two weeks.. all this in the last 3 years. Guys....i'm so burnt out lolol after this 911 car is done.. i'm done for a while. I even looked for a local mechanic to come and help and cant find anyone who's not afraid to touch the Porsche lol
couple pics of the kitchen and dinning room I built as well. it flooded on octover 4 and we had the new one built and installed before November. I made the countertops my self and the coffee bar, hood vent and all tire work.. everything we did our selves. we are very happy with how everything came out. that kitchen and dinning room cost us $9700 doing everything. we got a quote for just the cabinets installed and it was $27k for the kitchen side... lololol we said "nevermind.. we got this" lolol
check out those crispy ribs from the brick oven
Heck yeah dude! No apologies necessary. A lot of us are DIYers too so it's fun to see what you're up to. I did my own wood floor in my house and afterward I swore off stuff not related to cars for a while LOL
Glad to hear you're back at work. We all need you to finish that green car too!
lol ya I've been doing carpentry for to long on the side.. I want to pay someone else to do it but I can not get myself to trust hiring people anymore.
Get er done!!! i'm on it lol
thank you. it was worth it... skinny dipping in my own pool.. priceless lolol well i'll be honest.. I'm more inline with chunky dunken vs skinny dippin lolol
Everytime i read this thread and look at all the stuff you do Brian, i feel like a complete moron when it comes DIY. You need to keep us inspired....your work on your home is amazing....how did you learn all this stuff?
in my early 20's I was fortunate enough to work with a very high end finish carpentry crew. I had a kitchen in a magazine one time. the pictures of my house I posted was mid work phase, it ended up even better. I'm just about finished. my wife's office(works from home for apple) is very trimmed out. looks amazing and that coffee bar.. someone swore everything was store bought and didn't believe that I built everything there lol
My family says I have my grandpas hands. He could do anything with tools and apparently .. i got that lol to me... I just see something and have that can do attitude. I'm trying so desperately to pass that on to my boy. in an age of iphones.. I want him to stand apart.
I had never laid cement before this deck shucks or built a brick oven. I did a lot of preaching to jr about it before I started. explaining that we could do it if we just put our hands to work on it and use our heads. He
IS
going to be an amazing man one day. what else can I leave him other then my knowledge .. well and the Porsche lol he really wants that car one day
We just ordered blue prints to build a go kart and i'm going to get him welding and fabbing so soon he might join in on this thread with pictures of his work on the go kart.. hope you guys don't mind.
Thanks
Brian
Hold my non-alcoholic beer... I'm throwing up a pole barn.
I just need mote room. If i get this up i can bring all my cars back from storage and really start getting them all done. Plus maybe build a paint booth and start doing some real paint jobs to make extra side cash.
This is where i turn into an idiot
Even with having a labeled standalone wire harness I�m still scratching my head trying to figure it out.
can anyone help me understand where to pull the power from the Porsche harness from these connectors to power up the new motor?
since I�m doing all custom dash electronics I don�t think I need to worry about making the motor talk to the Porsche at all. other than my gauges in the dash so unless I�m wrong I think I just need to run the power to the engine.
any guidance would be very much appreciated.
thanks
It looks like you have a gm ecm and the harness for the gm motor only .If correct -the easy button is to run a new fused power wire from the starter motor to the gm ecm .You will also need a switched ignition on wire .I intercepted a wire at the porsche dme .I believe you will also want the gm ecm to control the fuel pump and fans -you can intercept those wires at the dme .The fuel pump will need a relay to reverse the gm polarity .I don't remember how I did the starter wire I think I picked up the wire at the rear relay panel .For the oil pressure and water temp gauges you will need to install porsche sensors .If after market gauges I don't know .
Did you save the x51 connectors ?
I used the �car phone� power just behind the center console for switched 12v power. There is constant 12v there too if you need it.
As for the engine bay, I used a voltmeter to find a switched power source but ultimately ended up using the car phone power above. I thinned out the factory Porsche harness to just have the required sensors and a starter solenoid activation wire. I mounted all the 996.1 sensors to the LS1 so the gauges work as intended. I also used the 12v stud in the engine bay for running the 0 gauge wires to the starter and alternator. It�s all a pretty easy hook up, let me know if you have any issues.
thank you for chiming in. Did you find a reference for the �dme� wires? I assume thats the pcm for porsche? Yes im that bad at this wire stuff
the fuel pump relay thing.. can you explain that a little more? The rest I understood.
with the aftermarket gauges, i think making them all work will be easy enough. Other then that sounds like just power everything up, right? Will the ignition key power still work so i can use what ever wire that powers up to turn on power to the gm ecu?
sorry for the juvenile questions guys, this is my one kryptonite about this build.
thanks a ton for helping
brian
The fuel pump relay is activated by the porsche dme grounding the relay .The gm ecm activates the fuel pump by providing positive battery .Just need to add a relay on the gm side.Something like pin 85 ground pin 86 from gm fuel pump activation wire pin 30 ground and pin 87 to porsche fuel pump relay .
An idea .........you might want to join facebook swapped porsches .There is a lot of excellent information on swapping .Also there is a fellow -Andrew Bailey in Detroit who is quite helpful and very knowledgeable that you might want to connect with .He is active on the the facebook swapped porsches .
Sorta! I'm using a Holley Terminator X kit but it's essentially the same. Positive signal triggers the Porsche relay socket, I pulled the relay out and run the single pump 12v trigger wire right into the spade at the kick panel at the driver's side. I believe I can change the signal type from 12v pos to ground via the Holley software but this route seemed a bit easier.
coming from the least electrical inclined person here.. thats kind of what i was thinking i would try and do. basically just run a hot wire to the pump directly.. is that possible? the fuel pump and the start/power are pretty much all i need if i'm not mistaken.. i hate being dumb lol
Just make sure you're using a relay system to power the pump. Most pumps are high current which means you'll want a fuse or relay to protect the circuit. Try not to overcomplicate it, use the system that's in place if possible by running the fuel pump 12v trigger to the relay position at the fuse panel. If you get this wrong, it could leave you stranded or worse, so ask a local buddy to inspect the work or post it here.
I'm in the thumb of Michigan. I've actually tried to get mechanics to help me out in my area. Adds on craigslist or where ever that claim to be swap gurus.. then I tell them about the 3.8/Porsche and crickets lol Even told them I just need help hooking up/figuring out the wiring and informing them I already have a professionally made stand alone harness(labeled) plus willing to pay lol .. cant get anyone around me to help. No biggy, I'll get through it but its going to take me longer then I want.
So last night I put the fuel logs on ... holy smokes that was a pain the booty. At $400 I wanted to take my time and not mess anything so it took a little while. also sat there reading stuff online about the sensors and names so i could try and match the labels on my harness to where I THINK they go on the motor lol everything is abbreviated on the harness so I'm kind of screwed trying to find all the acronyms for everything. "vss, vats, tps, aic, purge valve solenoid...and on and on I should ...
Anyway that's where I'm at right now guys. Sadly this part is basically holding me up from putting everything back together. Not that much left to do before I can fire it up
oh quick question, anyone know why my harness has two red wires labeled for "starter"? Shouldn't it be one for the ignition and one for the direct power from the battery?
Thanks
there are quite a few circuits to complete to have the car functional . Not sure what you are working with in terms of reference materials but you will need the porsche wiring diagrams .Then just a matter of identifying the correct wires to connect -one great thing about the Porsche is each wire is uniquely color coded . One technique is to identify each circuit that needs connections and draw a diagram and identify the correct color coded wire .Example fuel pump relay ye/wt pin 63 at dme needs to be grounded for fuel pump to run .I picked the wire up at the dme- in fact picked all the wires up at the dme because of proximity to gm ecm .The other circuits you will need -fans -alternator warning light which also feeds abs -fans -tach - speed signal .
great post, for the guages, fans, alternator, warning lights etc... i dont have the porsche dash anymore. I swapped in a lambo diable dash with all aftermarket gauges. I was under the assumption that i would be hooking all that up to the new engine harness and not using the porsche harness at all... am i correct with that?
I'm just thinking out loud here guys.. please understand I'm wayy out of my comfort zone with this but am i wrong in thinking all i need the original porsche wires to do is power the lights, windows, heater etc. ? leaving all the sensors regarding the engine to be ran off the new ecm/harness?
I signed up for facebook under Brian builds but ... lolol I cant even figure out how to navigate facebook so this website is my life line right now.. please talk as if you talking to a kid lol
not trying to get into my personal business but I went through a near death incident (spent some time in ER and we thought I was checking out) two years ago and mechanically i can still do anything.. mentally, I'm struggling very hard to understand stuff like this and tech in general. Its been a hard slow comeback. Luckily i am blessed with a wonderful wife who is a huge help to me. She helps me hide it quite well when we are around others lol I proof read these posts like 4 times just to make sure i didnt type anything that sounds like i'm on drugs lolol
I think we can figure it out .What gm ecm do you have ?If it is a 12200411 I have some familiarity .Not sure on the 2 started wires -would help to know what pins on the ecm they are connected to .
I will take some pics and look for some numbers on it tonight when i get home.
I'm on ebay right now just buying every stock sensor there is for the motor so i can fill the plugs on the harness and then just minus the ones i dont need after i figure them all out lol also sitting here ready and looking at diagrams for the porsche so i can try to figure out where to pull powers/wires from that i would need for the harness. ... i'm trying guys lol I want to drive this thing before spring
The tune to the pcm eliminated a lot of the not needed stuff for the morning. it was tuned for "off road" use for max gains and reflecting all the mods to the motor. The company that did the tune said they would do a dyno tune after i get it running and hooked but i need to get it to that point first. It was "Sinister performance" in ohio that did the tune.
The main starter wire that feeds the starter from the battery is a lot heavier gauge that the two you have in the picture. Those in your picture are trigger wires, or at least one of them is , that comes from the ignition switch.
the wiring will get done .You are essentially correct that the basic porsche stuff is fine -lights heat alarm-heat etc .The blue alternator wire -at x59 /1 pin 12 needs to be connected to the alternator (for the abs to function ) .Also if you removed the charge light indicator you need to add one or the alternator won't charge (.if that is a standard gm alternator .) Look on your harness and see if there is a brake wire -that is needed for recalibrating the gm crank position sensor on the ls6 engine not sure on yours .Fans -does your harness have fan output wires ? If so at the dme pin35 is low speed GN/wt and high speed is pin 36 high speed gn/wt .
I think the two wires labeled starter are for the ecm power but need to know what pins they connect to .The gm ecm has two power (batter positive ) feeds .
Great stuff guys. I will try very hard to make sure tomorrow when i post that i have a lot of these looked into so i'm not leaving you guys in the dark with my questions.
The charge light thing.. that one lost me.
I just got done saving some pictures that label the dme pins so i can be on the same page with you guys as you throw out things to do. I will also find some pics for the gm ecm as well. I will also get some pics of the harness and its labeling so you guys have a better understanding of what i have going on. there is a bundle that is seperated by the maker that says something about powering the stuff up front. pics coming tomorrow for sure.
thank you thank you thank you!!!! you've already cleared up a ton of stuff in mind with this lol
The charge light/idiot light serves two functions -excites the alternator field and goes out when alternator is charging .If you have standard gm alternator light needs to be there and the blue wire needs to be connected .Is there and alternator plug on your harness ? If no plug then more wires needed .
oh... idiot light, I understood that term.. wait... *facepalm lol
yes the harness has a plug for the alternator.
The harness was purchased off ebay from a company who made a few up for an aftermarket company and had two left over so I bought them both. One for my car and one for the built fiero way up in the thread. It is very well done, brand new and it came with instructions that read something like... "tools required are crimping tools and dont use a fuse tester as it can fry your pcm" .. that was about it lol resulting in me panicking trying to figure out the wires.
Just an FYI I have cut zero porsche wires (even the dash wires are still intact) so far. I was going to try and tuck them all away incase someone ever wants to swap it back to a porsche motor but then again.. it would be nice to take everything not needed out as I do want this build to look clean and neat so I don't end up on the shame page of renegade porsches
Anyone have thoughts on if I should strip all non essentials?
Until it is running and everything works I would strip nothing .Another idea if you get real uncomfortable with the wiring -put out a call for help on the grassroots projects page .There are a lot folks around detroit and might want to pitch in .I can help you walk thru it but will take forever .
Man i wish u were closer or even south of me. Michigan is getting too cold 4 me to visit. I have that 3.8l for my jeep., but i wont get started on it for a month of so. Then ill be able to give u some first hand help. On the 2 red wires go on the starter they r using the main lug as a junction point. One probably turns on the ecm and the other turns up an aux fuse center.
on the alt u have to be very careful. If u dont have a bulb in line or a resister on the 1 wire input u will imediately burn up the voltage regulator.
this is the Holley resistor.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-197-400
.
im going to pm u my number. Maybe texting of calling will be easier. Im pretty good with wiring as i just finished a 4.3l chevy in a jeep. I dont have much experience yet with the 3.8 or even the harness in the 996 but i have books and diagrams for both.
So just so the thread has more info incase anyone wants to point anything out. Here are pics of the harness.
Also I think I found a harness maker who MIGHT come help in two weeks. He knows the gm harness but not the Porsche harness which is fine as that would at least get me to having the engine side done properly. After that it would just be a matter of getting my dash to work which I think will be easier.. think lol And with the help of this forum I think the porsche side will go smoothly.
Also I had a very kind offer from a member here (not sure if he wants me to disclose so I'll just that) who might come up and spend a little time with me on this as well. As usually from the beginning.. this forum has been amazing for me. You guys are all AWESOME!!!
Free rides for any members if you in Michigan
lolol
Pics below.
This is that alternator wire mentioned.
This is those two red wires that run to the starter. My pointer finger is on one and I'm pinching the other with my thumb and middle finger. The next picture is the front of that.
this goes to the coil pack stage
some pics of the ecm.. pcm.. the computer thingy .. thing lol
bung that goes to auto trans which I assume I can just cut out. The gentleman I talked to last night said we will be able to simplify the harness some because its going to a manual trans.
This is the diagnostic port I think. not sure what the light is for though. I was hoping it was that charge light lol
This bundle is labeled things like "Tach, speedo" etc. I assume these are the wires I can run to the dash. This part .. I'm grasping, pretty much make these talk to the after market gauges which are all "Glowshift" gauges and I think I can call there tech support if I have any issues.
Im the one trying to see if u have the time to take a ride and help out.
The guy helping u with the harness will be able to help u with most of the questions so far. The 2 red wires or just power for the fuse block. The wires for the guages are digital outputs from the chevy computer. U need guages that r compatable or u need guages with stand alone sensors that can be piggybacked in the motor.
Basically the fuel guage has to have the same ohm range as the factory sender, for oil and water temp usually u just add a sender and for voltage, just tap into a 12v source. What other guages do u want? Rpm will be read off the chevy harness and speed can be done from gps signal. The speedo may be the hardest to integrate if u dont want an independant gps because it uses the porsche dme and abs sensors .
lol I always try to be courteous
I have a GPS speedo. All others from what I read should read the gm stuff.
The two red wires.. if power for the fuse box, where does the ignition wire go? That also answers one thought I had which was where the power was coming into the gm system at.
the charge light and the fuel pump are my mental scares right now. so I'm going to try and look into those. The man I talked to last night tried to explain "resistance" in voltage that I will need for some of the connections... I thought he was talking about a bent wire
Between him and this forum/posts like yours.. I'm stressing a lot less
Looks like you have a plan that will work .Pretty sure the light is service engine soon . That is a nice and complete harness ,-I didn't realize it had a fuse block ,which really simplifies it- and should make a nice clean install .You can use the porsche speed signal to drive the the gm ecm -takes a capacitor and resistor to modify the porsche signal ( I will see if I can find the values )I would thing the new speedometer would accept the gm speed signal .
You will have it running soon
The fuel pump is easy -just takes a relay -the charge light he can handle as well .My ecm is the same as yours and has performed flawlessly .I did need to add the speed signal to get proper deceleration and idle .The ignition wire needs to connect to a switched ignition source .The auxliary telephone wire behind the shifter is a good one .The gm ecm needs always on power and a switched ignition wire .The fuse block handles the always on power .
ok I've been trying to avoid asking this... what is a relay lolol Is this some sort of fuse thing i need to buy? or is this a figure or speech? its mentioned a lot, is there different types?
The ignition wire i was going to try and hook back up to the ignition key.
this "always on power" so the battery wire that goes to the starter will provide that power and the ignition switch wire will turn it all on when i turn the key correct... i'm thinkin of an amplifier for the speakers. i have a constant power and then an auxiliary power the turns it on after i turn the key.
haha i just started reading that as well lol thank you
its helping me understand it its function now I'm hoping to understand how i use its function.. reading
by the time you are done you will be an expert by internet standards . You don't need to go all the way to the ignition switch -there is a loose plug in the console for the auxilary telephone - one of the wires is a switched ignition source .You can tie into that .The fuel relay -pin 85 to fuel pump activation wire from new harness pin 86 ground pin 30 ground pin 87 to porsche fuel pump relay activation wire ye/wt .You can pick up that wire in several places -by the porsche fuel pump relay at the dme or in the wire loom going to the dme .
Not the correct relay but it is a picture of a relay. The relay u need can be picked up at any parts store. Ill try to get u a pic tonight. Its a pretty simple set up if u see a diagram.
For the ignition u will need to locate the swich wire that turns on the benix on the porsche starter and attach to the gm starter. Its the small wire. So when u turn the key to the start position it sends power to the starter relay. That relay then closes the path for the large 12v wire from the battery and starter spins. I should be able to get u the color from the bently book.
For the alt look at the link i sent u for the holley part. Since u have a 2 wire set up i will look up the correct one, but all u have to do is cut off your plug and splice the holley unit on. This is the easiest thing to do. U dont have to understand anything other then it fixes the retarded gm wiring needs.
Painless kit that i think may be correct.
https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30705
that was easy to follow De, thank you. that made sense to me.
Guys I'm sorry if let anyone down lol have this awesome build thread going and it get to the point where I'm lost involving electrical and panic like a school girl
thank you everyone for chiming in I feel like a have a pretty good game plan going forward.
No need to apologize. Most people (some highly intelligent ones even) don't no any more about a car than "get in, turn the key and put it in drive"... The fact that you're even attempting most of this stuff puts you way ahead of that class...
I'm pretty sure the 996 starter is controlled by the ECU and is not directly connected to the ignition switch like it used to be for most cars. I found this out when my crank position sensor was acting up. During cranking when the CPS signal got lost or became flaky, the ECU turned the starter off. The ECU thought the engine was running so it turned off the starter. I thought the engine hydrolocked.
Imooo is correct the dme activates the starter relay . The actual start wire from the ignition switch can be accessed at the starter relay (yellow) .The relay is not needed .
U r kinda right. The start lock relay receives a release signal from the dme to release the start relay. It should be fairly easy to rework the wires that go to the dme so it sends a power and ground to the relay. This should allow the the factory relay to fire the starter.
Another way to do it is remove the relay and use a spade connector plugged into the terminal 30 position .Essentially just extending the starter wire from the ignition switch
lol you guys are killing me here lol I'm just going to put the battery in the passenger seat and hold the wire in my hand and skip it off the positive terminal when I want to start it
I'm going to focus on getting the wire harness correctly on the engine for the next couple of weeks and prep the engine bay/understanding how to insert it into the Porsche side after that.
The gentleman who is coming to help has been given this thread to view so maybe he will join the forum and chime in. Very nice guy named joe.
He is quite the guru over on the forum where I did all my research for this motor build where the 3.8sc is done repeatedly in the fiero.
Better yet, modify your flywheel so you can start the engine with a shotgun shell!
Some old industrial engines start that way.
Action start at the 3:20 mark.
You Tube
does anyone know what the "transmission speedometer sensor part number" is? The gentleman coming out this weekend to help me with the engine side harness asked me. I told him someone here would know lol
Thanks
There is none on our cars. It uses the abs sensors at the wheels to determine a speed signal for the dash and dme. This is why u suggested the gps speedo.
He should not need need a speed sensor for the 3.8 because u have a manual trans. If he does Dakota Digital makes signal convertor that can probably read and convert. I used one in a 4.3l swap in a jeep with a manual. The computer just needed to know the jeep was moving for some reason, the speed conversion didnt matter. To be honest im not sure its was even needed.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...RoC704QAvD_BwE
"The 3800 PCM must have info on the vehicles speed. how many pulses per mile from the ABS reluctors"
was his response to the post.
any input on this one?
So with a little google research i have found from a couple sources that the abs tone ring produces 48 pulses per revolution and the abs module divides that by 8. So the answere is 6 pulses/rev from the abs module to the dme. U would now have to calculate the circumfrence of your tires then divide into a mile.
i still contend that because its a manual the computer doesnt actually need an accurate number.
edit: removed wrong math formula
where did u pull the signal from im guessing pre abs modual? By my math thats about 48 pulses/rev with a 25" tire (295/30/18).
any how my math above was wrong and i edited that post. Here it is corrected math.
[(5280ft/mile) * (1rev/(2*pie*r))]*(6pulses/1rev)=____________ pulse/miles
r has to be in ft and this assumes 6 pulses from the abs modual. If u pull pre modual then replace the 6 with a 48.
After abs at the dme and reshaped signal to a square wave with 1 uf capacitor and 1 meg resistor ..I would think the gps speedometer would work as well.
Looks like its the wh\br wire from pin 23 (ESO.RL) on the abs module. Im guessing the wire u grabed was the lead to the hvac cluster. That shows as "control unit ahvac" - pin a11 (ESO)
Brian what year is your car? As the wires change for the earlier cars because it doesnt send a signal to the hvac cluster.
also on that pic, which is great, the vss_h and vss_l are inputs on the chevy harness and is fed by the porsche wh\bn wire. Just some ingo gor uour chevy harness guy.
Mine is a 1999.
I did order that Dakota part you guys suggested. That way the gentleman who is working on the engine wire harness has everything he needs. If he helps me get this engine all straightened out and then on the 20th I get the Porsche side straightened out I will be past my nervous breakdown of fear for the electrical of this car lol
Super excited
Yup i see it on pin 79 on the 1999 schematic.
brian i am assuming that u dont have psm (posche stability management) on your car.
u may not need the dd controler if we wire in the resitor and capacitor. Should be just a few dollars off amazon and worth having.
capacitor
https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-50Voltage-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/dp/B07SDQY76K/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=1uF+Capacitor&qid=1604546000&sr=8-11
resistor
https://www.amazon.com/Projects-25EP5121M00-Ohm-Resistors-Pack/dp/B0185FJNY0
u will also need a fan controler for the front fans. Probably better to get a stand alone system unless thre is an output on the 3.8l harness, ask your guy. U will loose the 2 stage feature but thats not a big deal. If u go stand alone u can usually adjust turn in temps and some come with 2 stage features.
With this controler i should be able to tap into the factory relays.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...hoCVTkQAvD_BwE
im pretty sure the 3.8 will do the fans.
i will order the other things so we have them regardless. The engine harness side should be done this coming weekend and if your still stopping buy the following weekend... this part of the build should be a wrap ...
However you want it I can put the motor in only takes about 20 minutes or I can leave it out just let me know. Along with anything else you think you might need I have time I can order it and it will be here before you get here.
I am thinking in the car would be better. It would be my hope that i can just work our way through the last half dozen connections and we can get it started. Then we can work in the guage center. Ill bring a bunch of wiring tools, wires and connectors. Unfortunately without seeing whats left to do Im not sure what else we would need in advance.
Can u post a list of what the 3.8l harness guy left as open connections.
He just left and i need to finish up loom to the pcm connectors. Probably by Tuesday i will have a list put together. He labeled everything and said we are more then welcome to call him if there is any questions to what he did.
here�s some pictures of the wires left to be connected
I am feverishly ordering sensors, hoses etc. and trying to get everything here before this weekend lol
Looks pretty standard for the 3.8l side. Im pretty sure we can get enough of it together to get it started. Im also pretty sure there will be a metric ton of small stuff that will still need to be finished after i leave.
I just got a jeep running this weekend that was dropped off on a rollback with 6 boxes of parts. After 3 other mechanics and almost 2 yrs it was a mess. In 3 days i got it running and driving.
If we get all the electronics figured out and ready to go.. the other stuff is back in my wheel house which i can bang out quite quickly. There is some labels he left for me that i'm having a hard time remembering where they go lol but small stuff. the porsche side is my stumbling block now.
slowly but surely. i have huge hope for this weekend if nothing else to get me past the confusion of the electrical.. then i'm off and running. other then wrapping the dash and doing the hood mod for the intercooler.. not much else to do before i can break some axles lol
I bought some fuel rails from zzp see pics(black rails) that show top of motor up in previous post. The pics below(not from my motor) show how I'm going to do the system. re-turnless system using the stock 3800sc regulator. right now my main problem is getting all the fittings, taps, plugs etc to keep liquids and air in the engine before this weekend incase we get to a point we can start it up. not having much luck finding everything I need.
Thanks, I'm quite anxious to see how a 99 will feel with roughly 350whp. Plus this set up should get me a lot more low end vs the flat six which will be more inline with my driving desire. I took this porsche up to 156mph when I first got it curiously seeing what it could do and ya... I'm just not into those crazy high speeds anymore. That was actually the fastest I've ever gone in a car before and it still had 1/2 or 5th and all of 6th gear to go through... no desire to do that again lol I'd rather enjoy a really fast 0-60 set up then that.
I haven't looked at this thread in quite a while, a lot of progress has been made !! Props to you for the continuing effort. Having built a few "ground up" cars I know what it takes to make this happen.
One quick curiosity question, looks like the air intake for the throttle body will go through the firewall? I suppose the air filter/cleaner will be located where the back seat used to sit? If so, that will have some unique cabin sounds..lol.
I don't think returnless will work .The porsche pump is designed for continuous flow .All you need to do is put a fuel pressure regulator on the return side of fuel rail and tie into the porsche return line .If you want non glitz all the autoparts stores carry Dorman fuel line (nylon ) and the necessary fittings .
This wont require a shot gun shell like the tractor will it? lol
I haven't shown the pics yet but I am re-sheet metalling the rear. about 80% done now but I want to get it all set before I share the pics
lol air intake will most like get routed to the side of the car on the passenger side with scoops like the ruff racing pic way up in the thread and a faux vent on the driver side to keep the symmetry... but haven't settled on that part yet.
No A/C, over the two years we drove this car .. never used it. live in michigan and on the days that its just to hot to drive with the windows down.. we sit by the pool and stay cool. plus I figured with deleting the A/C and adding a Jegs and Summit racing sticker.. should make the car faster
lol
Thank you for that tip. Its simple to go either way with the fuel rails I have .. I think.
Can anyone else confirm that on the re-turnless vs the return fuel.
lol oh man that cracked me up lololol sorry I took the "I don't think" as you were not sure so wanted to confirm.. thank you for confirming it
I will make sure I put on the return set up, shouldn't be an issue.
last night i found some of the fittings i needed and the two taps at a local tool store. As of right now im waiting for a broken vacuum fitting to get here in the mail. if that gets here before this weekend, the things left will be to hook up gas line, radiator hoses and hook up pcm.
was able to drill and tap the sensors for the glow shift gauges. Oil pressure and coolant temp. So there is a temp sensor for the pcm and a separate on for the dash.
Well i loaded the Pete with snacks and just need to get fuel. My rim/tire pick up is set for around 4pm in Columbus. I should be at your place around 8pm. Im still debating on bring my car. The truck rides better with the weight on it but just not sure its worth the effort if im not gonna pull it off.
Looks like we will have a fighting chance to get it fired up
.
I'm in the bottom of the tumb and there is some nice country roads up here. if you bring it you can take a break and go cruise the water front in the upper thumb, only about 30/40 minutes from me.. nice driving and few cars.
what day are you coming up? i'll put the motor back up and in before you get here. till then i'm working on it on the floor where there is more room.
So as you all probably already know... local parts stores just .. kinda bite. trying to find all these fittings before this weekend and just running into dead ends. "do you have any 14mm AN fittings?"... 18 yr old clerk.. "well I'm not sure what that is let me as my manager" His manager had to look it up online to know what it was as well "um... we can order you one"
Also asked for a weld in bung for my wide band sensor I have one and I needed another so I was able to show him the part. Both of them had no idea what it was or how to get one. They actually referred me to rock auto online lolol I was at Autozone.
I just cant win here
Gonna pm u my #. Send me a pic of what u need. I am assuming u r saying a 14mm wrench fits on the AN fitting. AN fittings are measured by -4,-6,-8 ect. Do u know the hose size? Send me the link of the product u r connecting too. I may have stuff. I wont have time to get to my hydra shop before i leave. Im guessing its a -4 for 5/16 hose. If its -6 for 3/8 hose i deffinately have it.
Is the wide band a o2 sensor? U can usually get the bungs on a 1 day amazon ship around me. My autizone usually stocks them.
Google search for a hydraulic hose repair shop near u. They will have the fittings.
Here is a locater for Parker Parts, excellent source of what you need in hoses and fittings, there is one in Saginaw Michigan.
https://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...RoCNnEQAvD_BwE
Unfortunately, it's not just "there"... Almost everywhere is the same. All the brick & Mortar retailers are hanging on by a thread - they can't afford to pay anyone to sweep the place and clean the toilet no less pay someone with knowledge of parts/hardware etc. It's a sad state of affairs... The upshot is, if you can plan ahead a little you can find just about anything online and for a decent price even with shipping (sometimes shipping is just stupid on small pieces though). Good Luck
Instead of a regular car parts store try a local speed/hot rod shop or fitting like that. As for the O2 sensor bung......easy, just go to any muffler shop. They install those all the time when an O2 sensor is stuck and needs replacing so they can easily sell you the bung for a few $$.
Well a long drive, 21hrs, but i got my p-car wheels and tires and brian's car started. Maybe brian can figure out how to post the video?
There is still a ton to be done but all the electronics are integrated.
I will post up the video around 8am.
Thank you so much to jeeper for coming and going through that mess with me. I am now past .. the panic lol. He left me with a better understand, a plan and now i just have to pretty some things up and continue on with the stuff I know how to do
video coming within an hour or two... she rumbles nicely
Always a good thing when for a big project you can start seeing the light at the end of a tunnel. Took me 6 years to take apart and put back together my 996 engine. Things seemed to go faster when I passed the halfway point.
AWWWWW!!!!! Dropped my soldering gun on the carpet
c-mon!!!!! Stupid clumsy fingers.
working on making PCM wires to the correct length in creating a bundle for the Harness to get wrapped. I�ll post pictures when I�m all done it�s just a mess right now.... carpet!!!!! AWWWWW!!!! It was in mint condition
The carpet is probably fixable in less stressful times .Just cut a plug ( under seat is a little extra material ) with exacto knife or razor blade and trim to size after clearing burn pocket .and glue in .
... never thought of that one ... that is a great suggestion. Thank you.. yeah it�s hard to see the fix when you�re a little angry over a stupid mistake lol thanks
I wish this post was because it�s done and ready to drive for spring but this will be the last post for a little while� Again I sold my house and moving to a new one. good news is it already has a pole barn. so next time I post a pic hopefully this thing will be up on a car hoist with a pool table in the background and possibly another toy next to it, have my eye on a friend for the porsche
. muhaha lol
staying here in lapeer but found a bigger home outside of town. Just has a better set up.
the pole barn will be nice. Ill have room for the cars and can finally bring them back from storage.
Ya i only have a couple wires left to run and it will be all done.
if i can get a solid month on the car the cosmetics and mechanical stuff will be all done... but gonna be a while again.
2020 was a ruff year ...
Hey guys I�m all moved into my new house but my barn is packed with all my stuff. building a tool shed to hold it so I can turn the barn into a man cave pool table, Jacuzzi, two post car lift .. all kinds of cool stuff.
So again the Porsche�s on hold till I get things re-organized but today I decided to buy a friend for the Porsche
all cars need love and fat ones skinny ones European ones and even American ones so don�t hate me lolol
its wicked fast, extremely clean(mint condition) and im pretty excited to enjoy it this summer. It will give me something to enjoy while I finish up the porsche
I just read the whole 60 pages and then found out that it has been 4 months since the last installment. I hope the one in January is not the last. The 3.8L was one of the most robust engines GM ever made and I would love to see this conversion on the road.
far from it. I bought a new house and im remodeling and building the man cave so its just on hold for a short time. We bought two corvettes (c6GS and c3) to drive and enjoy till next summer. Im hopefully going to be able to get back to the porsche this coming winter.
it will get finished and handed down to my son one day. This was a memory building car for us.
Hey guys, I have been chipping away at my barn while i remodel this new house. I built a tool lean-to off of it for all my parts/tools etc. and the main area is going to be where all my cars are at with a bar and one area (seen in pic) where i work on what ever car is the current project. Walls and ceiling will be insulated and i will be putting down an epoxy floor. My stereo is insane lol two 12's, two 10's and one 18' woofer... sounds awesome !! lol I have more then enough room for all my car parts now so thats going to be a great motivation to wrap up all my projects.
one way or another I'm going to get this Porsche back on the road by next summer.
I'm on the fence for the lift. i keep going back and forth from scissor to post. My goal is to keep it looking very clean and more like a hang out area which a lift would interfere with. but having a Porsche.. lift would help when I'm swapping engines.... not sure as of yet.
Symmetry is important to me as well lol This is going to look clean but i have so many projects on my plate now .. its just going to take time.
A 4 post makes a really nice place to store a second vehicle when not using it for working as well. I am taking possession of our new house with 40x60 shop this weekend. Still trying to figure out how to set it up but a 4 post will be there someplace.
My barn is 40X30 so I have room for 3 cars comfortable, my tractor and a bar area which will leave me roughly about a 15x15 area which I'm going to turn into a drop down paint booth. I had a little more sqft i would go 4 post. If i do go the lift route over the scissor route i would probably go 2-post to save room.
My main goal is .. spacious. i want room in this barn. I do a lot of work on car for others for play money so I want to be able to have the occasional space to do that now and then plus have the room for my wife and son to feel comfy out there watch the projector screen tv or chilling by the wood stove. we just bought my son his first dirt bike as well so i want him to feel welcome to have work space as well when he starts tinkering with his bike. Its a work in progress so things might change
Looks like an awesome setup! I have a couple huge home entertainment speakers in my shop too. Cranking up some tunes while wrenching is the best meditation sometimes
I love my Porsche but.. to be honest, id be tempted to sell right now. It�s getting old seeing it sit here as I seem to be picking up more and more projects
Life is just too busy and it sucks because I�m only a few weekends away from probably being able to drive it but I just can�t seem to free up the time.
Worth a lot more money done - I’m with dj… suck it up get it done and decide.
Personally, when it comes to abandoned projects - regret is my predominant emotion.
Wish I had them back…
Good luck bro !
I know guys I haven�t decided to sell it just working here in the barn and was looking at it banging my head against the wall telling myself I need to get back to it just can�t seem to free up the time.
just sharing my girly thoughts lolol
just so much going on this year. I have 4 project cars right now and none of them are currently driving. I sold the C6 grand sport cuz i just wasn�t enjoying it and now im driving nothing
I know the feeling. Between my old wooden boat, cars, trucks, and motorcycles projects, it sometimes feels a little overwhelming. Just keep chipping away, even if it’s just 30 minutes here and there one item at a time on the list. There’s no way you can stop now or you’ll regret it for the rest of your days! Plus, you’re an inspiration to those of us that lack your talent. We’re all rooting for you!
ya ill get er done.. just catching up with the board and venting my frustrations with this super cool boat anchor in my barn right now. This old farm house we bought is beautiful but wow is it a lot of work. 6months in and we still dont have a kitchen. Just busy busy busy. But i should have the coolest man cave around within a few months lol
As awesome as this thread is, not just by ttt123 but all the RennListers who've offered help, directions and expertise, it's not good for my self-esteem. What the hell am I doing with my life?
Very impressive skills and perseverance!
I get you. Ever since I started dating my current girlfriend(4yrs now), aside from being gone for work(6-8 months a year), I don't have time to do much at all especially since she has a little 6yr old boy that occupies most of my free time. Ended up dialing my gun projects down to maybe two a year and my shoe hobby is pretty much non existent. Now I read books to keep me away from the internet... which in turn keeps me from buying more projects. Unfortunately a certain type of ammo has been banned from import for the next year so I'll have to start reloading again. There goes about 2hrs a day between brass prep, reloading and post production checks.
2hrs a day? Damn man lol
do you have a good place for the reloading brass and bullets? I will probably need to order up some die�s for reloading as well because the prices have already gotten ridiculous
I've been using MidwayUSA for projectiles and brass for the most part. The round that I'm reloading is 9x39 which is 300 BlackOut's Russian grandpa. Primers and Powder are almost nonexistent at the moment and if you find it... heaven help you. I process my own brass and throw them in ziplock bags after cleaning, resizing and trimming to reload later.
yeah I put a feeler out there lots of interest but pretty much tire kickers if it doesn�t go no worries I�ll get to it eventually if it does go I had a fun time with the car and did some pretty cool stuff to it. Life is busy guys and there�s always other sides to a story that people don�t share. got a lot going on in life right now health being one of them.. sometimes you gotta let things go.
we�ll see
oh for sure. And I didn�t take it as you judging.. all good.
for those who followed this thread if you remember a year or two ago about mid project I got sick.. those issues are still with me and things are getting much harder to do now. Not sure if I�ll even be walking in 2 to 3 years. I need to focus on other things right now I still have a few toy cars to drive and I might pick up another one that�s done but seeing this poor sit here for almost 2 years now it�s getting to the point that I�m going to have to start fixing things from letting it just sit.
Someone could take this off my hands and have an amazing car as you guys all know everything on this thing is brand new from suspension to drivetrain to interior etc.
again if it doesn�t sell no big deal I�ll keep tinkering with it here in there when I get the time but if it does sell I�ll be sad but it is what it is.
sorry to hear about your health Brian, for sure that needs to take a priority over a car
I wish i had the time / money to take it off your hands but mine is still on my car lift in pieces lol
thanks tekkie, your one of the few who have seen this crazy creation in person lol its a cool car and one of my prouder mental craziness come to life projects lol
at the dr�s now for some results review �🤞 MS is something we are looking into now 😔. Im a religious man and i�m also accepting that life happens and will take each day as it comes with my head held high 😊
ya I�ve been reading up on it. Talked to someone who has it and was telling me they are getting much better and dealing with it now.
We�ll see, like mentioned.. im not trying hard to move it. If i dont get a make me sell offer then ill just keep it.
it would explain why i feel like im 60 these last few months. Hopefully its just more of my thyroid issues we need to deal with� stay up on your health guys!! This sucks right now.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.