DIY modified ESM wheels

For this project, I'll be modifying ESM-004 cast wheels. If your like me and love the look of multi piece wheels, but A . don't need them and/or B. don't want to pay exorbitant amounts of cash, for genuine multi piece wheels; then multi piece "look" (aka fake) wheels, may be an option. If your also like me and found a style that you like, but dislike the use of fake & plastic "hardware" commonly used on "look" type wheels, continue reading. Please note, this does not in any way make these wheels less "fake". However, it does make them look infinitly better and helps me not feel like such a poser. BTW why dont wheel companies just edit the design so they don't have the fake hardware at all?🤷‍♂️ Tools used: 1/4in socket driver 1/4in 3/8" Allen socket 1/4in ratchet w/extension Tap-n-die set (1/4-20 tap) Suitable hammering device (I used a 5lb soft sided exercise weight) Hardware & consumables used: Low/mid strength locktite 242 100ct 14-20/ 1" socket head screws (I chose black) 100ct M7 stainless washers Alot of time and patience (Unboxing vid below) https://youtu.be/OhFVKW-7Egg https://youtu.be/Foioz6tsIHY (watch it) First step is to punch out the plastic rivets from behind. Many videos and tutorials show folks using pliers to pull the rivets out. Doing so can possibly damage the wheels and plastic hardware. ESM sells these fake rivets for about $1 each, so these do have potential re sale value. 24� per wheel The most difficult step: Once the hardware is removed, it is recommended that the holes be tapped in the size and thread pitch, of the genuine screws, that you plan to use. In this case I'll be using 1/4-20 x 1" A little goes a long way Since the hardware can be screwed completely through the freshly tapped holes; I highly recommend using some form of locktite type adhesive, for installation. I found that most of the screws were able to be "torqued" down with reasonable force; many of the screws would thread in, but never really tighten. Also be extra careful, when tapping the holes and installing the new hardware. The aluminum is very soft and easily cross threaded or damaged. Looks legit The finished results look much better. With tires mounted, and unless you A. Know before hand or B. Really look in detail; these wheels look much more realistic and not so cheap. Tires mounted Due to my car having had a wheel stud conversion. The plastic center lock "look" caps, don't fit. I'm okay with that. the car is going to be lowered asap, and I'll add/edit this thread with the "finished" result.

The only issue I see is the black oxide steel hex screws might rust. Looks good otherwise.

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Thanks for the compliment and for addressing that issue. Yes, possible rust or corrosion is a concern of mine. I'm actively searching for other hardware options. I actually wanted to use a tapered head titanium screws, commonly used for handlebars on mountain bikes. At around $5-8 each, its cost prohibitive at the moment.

Those look sharp but, yes pricey.

That looks good, those black oxide socket head cap screws and zinc plated washers are definitely going to rust. Hit up McMaster.com and get some 1/4-20 18-8 stainless steel socket head cap screws and washers. Or get brass socket head cap screws - it's not like they are adding any strength to the wheel, after all.

That is pretty cool and the attention to detail is superb.

Looks well done, but I'd never spend that amount of time and energy to specifically add weight to the outside of a wheel.

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That's understandable. I was going to do a before and after weighing of the wheels and hardware, in anticipation of the inevitable comments about the added weight. What I can say, is that yes the genuine hardware does weigh more then the plastic stuff (goes without saying); but the weight of the genuine hardware isn't a significant increase, to the overall assembly. In retrospect; I reguarly have cars come through our shop with more stick on weights, then the 3-3.5 oz per wheel, added here. The overall weight of the wheels and tires is still pounds less then the stock 17s I removed.

Your aluminum alloy wheels will eventually suffer from galvanic corrosion when using steel screws. For that reason the fake wheel has plastic screws and genuine multi-piece wheels use titanium screws.

Those bolts will rust as soon as they see some moisture.

The plan has always been to use titanium or even aluminum screws, but Ti is too expensive at around $5ea ($8 with shipping) � 96 screws 😬 I couldn't find Aluminum screws in the size I needed, or in the time to be completed prior to the date I needed them. I had a drive to Watkins Glen, planned on the 10th, for the SVRA race, with a friend. I had actually just gotten my car back from having clutch, flywheel, timing, RMS, IMS, AOS, h20 pump, etc etc etc on Sept 6th, and I still had (in addition to completing this wheel project) needed to DIY new front and rear shocks, mounts, springs, LCAs, brakes & rotors, mount & balance tires, alignment, clean and detail the car, and be ready to travel to the event on the 10th, so.... yeah. I'll eventually swap hardware materials, styles and colors. But considering the constraints I had, I'm pretty well pleased. Even if compromises had to be made.