Ignition issue (key difficult to remove)

Have a sticky key, here's the symptoms: (1)Sometimes I remove key, display still says to remove key after its out. I have to put my key back in and quickly pull it back out. Then I hear some mechanical sounds and the display then reads the key is removed. (2) could not get key out yesterday easily. I had to forcibly turn it to the left to get it to release. Do I need just the ignition switch or do I need both switch and steering lock.

You need a new ignition switch, about $35ish. Replaced mine last year. If you are small and can get your head under the dash it isn't bad. If you are above 6' and over 200lbs it's interesting to say the least.

Is this the part? Amazon.com: C004 4A0905849B 87-98 Audi Ignition Switch A4 A6 A8 S4 S6 V8 90 [phone removed] Cabriolet 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98: Automotive Amazon.com: C004 4A0905849B 87-98 Audi Ignition Switch A4 A6 A8 S4 S6 V8 90 [phone removed] Cabriolet 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98: Automotive

Yes, that is the ignition switch for a 996 assuming the lock assembly has never been replaced. If you have the updated lock assembly, you need 4B0 905 849

Good to know, any way to visually check if I have the updated assembly?

Atrox, here is the diy : http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...on_Switch.html Pelican has some good info also in Wayne's guide: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...witch_Repl.htm

Yank out the old Ignition Switch and match up the part numbers. The revised lock housing came with updated switch. If the switch has the new part number, you can just replace the switch with the same number. If the switch has the old part number, you can either replace with same number, or install updated housing which will come with new switch.

The 4A switch cost between $7 - $50 depending on where you buy it. The Porsche approved replacement cost $150 -$300 depending on where you buy it. If the cheap one doesn't fix the problem buy the expensive one. I replaced mine with a $14 NAPA sourced switch. It lasted ~1 year. I then replaced it with the $30 one from Pelican. That one is 3 yrs old and working just fine. I also carry a spare with the tools needed to replace it - in case. When I put the first one in I tightened the two set screws "GOOD N TIGHT" I think the caused the plastic housing to deform a little. That switch never worked as smooth as the original. When I put the second on in I just lightly snugged the set screws and put a little silicone sealer on them.. I think the factory torque for these is very low hence the red glyptal ( http://www.glyptal.com/9620Tech.pdf ) / thread locker on the screw heads from the factory.

I am the key master (not really but thought it sounded cool) If you are hearing the mechanical spring pop before the car turns off it is not the cheap part. That mechanical sound you hear is steering wheel lock popping. If that is the case you need a whole new ignition. If you are having electrical gremlins then the switch on the back is all you need. The updated igntion/steering lock is a single unit and the switch on the back can not be removed. Change the switch on the back first - cheap and easy, but I am willing to bet it will not solve the problem. BTW - no lubrication in the world will help

I can tell the mechanical sounds are coming from around key area, like a click. It's like they are stuck up as the key is in there, and they only re engage close after I stick the key in and quickly remove. What now? I have not exp any electrical issues. Just tried the key again, and it sticks but it's also turning the ignition housing a little as well. The key will come out after turning hard to the left. Tumbler, switch, steering lock?

Try the cheap part. See what happens.

I wish I had more pictures to try to help. But if you are not having any electrical issues and the key is not coming out, then it is a tumbler issue. I think you will be able to fix it without taking the car apart. So here is what I know. Looking at the ignition/steering lock this is off and the steering lock is out. the electrics will not shut off until this is out. 7554F798-F234-4950-BF64-77313E04ECFB.jpg 1ACE2556-A1A6-4A48-9A53-E700430C2BB7.jpg This is the car on: 2A8BC5B3-C77D-4F40-9B27-50ED41DC817F.jpg 50653BDD-D526-4C15-9C32-693C734D24F5.jpg This is where the electrical part connects and here are the two screws: 7811F1ED-68F6-40F4-BFEA-3F1B3B4D18C1.jpg 232B651E-461E-4D94-A2DA-434DA071882A.jpg I don't think there is anything there that can stop the key from coming out. The only thing I can think of is the tumbler not being all the way off. And the tumbler should not spin. I had the problem of the tumbler spinning after I put it back together but was able to adjust it without removing the whole igntion lock piece. I would remove the rubber surround form the place where you put the key in. I think it just pulls off. Then get a paper clip and slip it in the hole as seen on the pelican parts description. Make sure the key is in the ignition first. It should go all the way through so you can remove the tumbler. I bet yours is not lined up. If you put the paper clip in and rotate the tumbled the paper clip should go all the way through when you are in the correct position. then remove the paper clip and the tumbler should lock in place. Look at the pelican parts pics. It will show you. If you play with it you will figure it out. I did. And I am not too bright.

Stop. Replace the $12 part. I am 250 lbs and can do it in under 20 minutes. You don't need to take apart the side of the dash like some of the DIYs say. I would say there is a 90% chance the $12 part will fix your problem.

Really appreciate the pics, and everyone's input. I ordered the part it's cheap enough, and even if it won't remedy the situation I'll have it for future issues. You know I actually look forward to wrenching on this car. The help I get here and the relative ease of working on these cars truly make them something special.

I second the motion

Taking the tumbler out and putting it back in is free and easier

I also had symptoms that I thought would be impossible to solve merely by replacing the rear (electrical) part of the switch...how could it possibly be interfering with the wheel lock, etc.? $15 later, everything fine. I'm a believer. I think replacing that switch might even solve a flat tire. No, not really.

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Replacing my ignition switch saved my marriage.

I'm going to send a case of them to Obama.

Any reason why not to go with the $10 dollar part? I really can't see a need to drop another $30 for essentially the same part.

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If you saved the receipt, maybe you can get a refund.

Several people have indicated that the retail part (the $10 version) did not hold up well. I bought the $30 OEM part from Pelican. I'm not normally a "not worth my time" kind of guy, but given that the swap is somewhat uncomfortable and the range of problems a bad switch can produce, I chose the "expensive" route.

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Which did KrazyK end up using?

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WHICH DAY?

The nice thing about the $12 part is that it's in stock at NAPA. If no hurry, I do think the $30 part is worth the extra money. My first NAPA switch lasted about 4 months.