Double din stereo suggestions?

Need some help. When i got my 04 C4S the stock radio was gone. The car came with the Bose system so i am not sure how the did the install of the JVC KD-R975BTS unit thats in it. Playing around i did find a Kicker PX 200.1 (AMP?) Very well hidden in the frunk. Truthfully i have no idea what i have - decent or junk? Either was i want to install a double din unit with nav. I realize some question may not be able to be answered as no one knows whata been done behind the dash already but can someone with knowledge answer some questions for me? Would prefer to be at or under $500 for the head unit. There are tons of double dins. How do i narrow down to what i want? I have no need for cd's. Really all i want is nav and something that will intergrate with my Andriod Samsung Galaxy S8. I see some pictures of of screens that show the Waze ap on the stereo. How do you use it? Is it using the phone signal? Is there a particular size screen that fits in the 996 or is it any double din (with the ac relocation of course)? Any radio guys out there? here is whats in it now.

I am in the same situation. I planning on a Kenwood DMX7705S, but this may change. You need to first find out if the wires were replaced to install the aftermarket unit. The Bose had fiber optic cables and pose a lot of problems unless you get something like: It is a Seican unit. I will have my installed next week with the factory amp and wiring. I will post once it is installed.

This weekend I installed a Sony XAV-AX210 in my Bose/MOST equipped 2004 996 40AE. I used the Chinese Longate adapter and retained the Bose amp. I used the Metra Double Din adapter and it�s really made for 1999-2001, I had to secure the housing better with a couple of screws. It all works great, I do have a slight alternator whine so I�m going to add direct grounding of the Sony chassis to a ground point. Right now its only ground is via the harness The cubby in the Metra kit is shiny plastic in the back. I�m either going to put the original rubber mat in it (but not a perfect fit and I�ll have to remove some rubber ***** from it) or line it in some other rubber mat if I can find something I like. Also did the Lighter to USB and installed a Targa shade switch which I will at a later date hook up to garage and gate openers. Before After The two screws I had to add to keep the housing from sliding

By the way, the Sony supports Android Auto as well as Apple CarPlay. I am in the iPhone camp so I can only tell you about that: Very few car stereos support CarPlay over WiFi (and non over Bluetooth) so mine, like most, requires you connect via USB for CarPlay functionality. Once you connect, you get a CarPlay screen. You are more likely to find Android Auto integration that uses WiFi or BT (I have no info for you but you can go to Crutchfield.com and search).

I am kinda a dummy on modern aftermarket head units. Am i understanding it correctly as once your phone is connected to the head unit, the head unit basicly uses the phone for youtube, pandora, waze, and the internet and such? Beyond that how is the car able to use wifi for the internet?

Well, there are a few different ways this is handled. My Sony allows for BT audio, which will play music, and also BT phone support, which will allow you to do phone calls over the stereo. That's separate and different from Android Auto and Carplay, which take over the screen (you can always get to the other stereo functions from the home screen) and give you a phone-like experience on the stereo. So in my case I can use Waze, Google Maps or Apple Maps, Apple or Amazon Music, Spotify, Pandora, etc. It uses my phone for the app but pushes a screen onto your stereo (adapted for the stereo). Also it can do your phone (separate from the BT phone service described earlier). You phone is using the internet through your data plan (or wifi if you are parked at home and in range of your wifi). The car doesn't use your phone for internet, it uses your phone to display the apps which are really running on your phone, but displayed (like a second screen) on your car stereo.

Android Auto is probably very similar to Apple CarPlay. Apple restricted (initially) to only Apple Maps which has inferior routing capability to Google Maps and Waze, but has since relented and allowed those apps.

I get it now....what i am looking for is a head unit to make calls (my current one does that) use youtube and waze. Anything beyond that i wouldnt even know was possible. Beyond using a radio and bluetooth for phone i have never had anything better. My mercedes has built in nav but my experience has always been anything that is built in gets old and dated maps. Thats why i want something that will use an app like waze the constantly updates and knows current traffic.

Not sure if you can use YouTube on Android Auto. You cannot with Carplay. The head units also have lockouts for playing video on the main screen while driving, using parking brake input. They may support multiple screens (think for kids in the back) and would allow those. Anyhow good oof luck with your research. Kenwood for example, someone all of their models you can change the boot logo to Porsche or whatever you want. Sony is locked down. Lots of stuff to research.

Are you planning a self install? IF you are both crutchfield and cai offer the good selection and step by step instructions. ​​​​​​ https://cai-store.com/ ​​​​​​ https://www.crutchfield.com/S-m7VlgI...-Speakers.html

I went with the TOL Kenwood unit with a new Alpine amp in mine from CAI. Might be a bit of overkill for a car that I drive 4/5 months, but it work great and they were great to work with.

I was looking for an amp that would fit where the original Bose amp was located next to the spare tire. I found this amp Amazon Amazon It fit easily on the old Bose bracket. I was even able to reuse the power and ground wires. For the head unit, I got a factory reburb'd Kenwood from Crutchfield. It's a DNX995S. It was only $850.00. It looks like the price for new units has dropped now too. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNX...x995s&skipvs=T Apple Car Play works really well with Waze. XM radio is a bit sketchy but I imagine that's got something to do with XM. I also use Car Play to read and respond to text messages. The mic doesn't work well for telephone calls but Siri has no problem understanding texts that I dictate. The install isn't too difficult. There's a hole almost directly behind the radio in the firewall that you can easily route the wires through.

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Yes i will be doing DIY. The install is not my concern. Its which products to use and what to run away from really.

I have the Kenwood DMX7705 and its amazing. It's a non-DVD, non nav unit which makes the cost significantly lower. My recommendation would be to get one with carplay/android auto then you won't have use for the built-in nav anyway. A couple other things to check if you care--rear-view camera compatibility and backlighting for the keys (the sony I was initially looking at was white lighting only, whereas I wanted one that I could make orange to match the rest of the interior).

I have just installed the Pioneer 4400 NEX, it is totally wireless, no need to plug in. Works great with CarPlay, sounds great and phone quality is fantastic. installed in a 1999 C2 Cab.

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This is an important feature. Many people do NOT want bright blue keys in their cars! White in an otherwise amber car can be a distraction too. My Sony allows for setting this and I got a close match to the interior amber colors of the surrounding buttons.

What about the Android stereo's? Any of them any good? I want a Double Din 10 inch to display Torque Pro straight from the OBDII Bluetooth adapter, without going through a Smart phone. Anyone have any recommendations? Looks like this Joying unit is a true Android and supports OBDII and TPMS and 4G internet no idea on quality. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrCwohUAIdcTWwARjUPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTByMjB0aG5zBGNvbG8DYmYxBH BvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?p=Android+stereo+Torque+Pro&fr=yhs-sz-001&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts2.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOVP.W3BuVMXQy9_KCzTfN9 ccdAEsDh%26pid%3D15.1%26w%3D144%26h%3D77%26c%3D7&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww. youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D_AX9KDHy9fA&tit=Pyle+PLDNANDVR695+android+car+ stereo+%28torque+pro+demonstration%29&w=144&h=78&pos=1&vid=6b79bf4741671 7945480edc4a0b4b6b1&sigr=11bjc2l06&sigt=11vsosjoi&sigi=12j6kv5i5&hspart= sz&hsimp=yhs-001 https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-10...4g-module.html

Did my install in one evening, total cost was $425 bucks. Arrow points to garage door opener install I did as well.

Jacob I am about to upgrade my 2003 996 and I have the Bose amp with speakers like yours. Can I ask you about the fiber optic wires? Forgive my ignorance but do the fiber optic wires come from the speakers or from the amp to the head unit or all of the above? I had one installer recommend I keep the Bose amp but get a converter (maybe like the one you show here) but I have another guy recommending I replace the amp entirely. It sounds like you just added that seican unit to your existing Bose amp, correct? Thanks Rich

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Jacob will chime in with his response, but I'll add mine too: The Seican unit is like my Longate. It takes Left and Right RCA jack input (from the head unit FRONT OUT connections) and turns them into digital signals that go to the MOST (fiber optic) system, so the Bose amp can get the signals. The way this Bose system works is the left and right channels are sent and with the old radio, some proprietary signal is sent to the amplifier to handle front/rear fade. You lose front/rear fade with these Seican/Longate adapters, as well as tuning the subwoofer (but it still works). If you change the amplifier, you would instead of using Seican or Longate, run RCA cables for everything to the amplifier, and then connect the speakers to the amplifier. Note that not all amplifiers like the ultra-low impedance Bose speakers, which are 2ohm. There are some links in other threads to amps that are known to work. I think the Longate adapter is fine. It's probably better to replace the Bose amplifier (getting rid of the MOST system entirely) and run RCA cables, but that was more work and more money.

Bill (bplein) is correct in the post above. All the cables seem to be fiber optic for the MOST system. The problem is 2003 seems to be a funny year. The Longate adapter is good from 04 and later, it seems to be hit and miss with the 2003. 2002 and older are also seemingly not too tricky and many guys had good results from some of the other adapters. I did not want someone ripping up my entire car to change the wires as they never really go back together as "factory" as we would hope. Thus, I want to go the adapter route if it will work. After doing quite a bit of research, the Seican unit seems to be effective for all years as it has almost every adapter plug from all versions. It seems to be the newest version out there designed by a German group (made in Hong Kong). My appointment is on Thursday and I will be able to comment further once this is completed.

I think the Longate is just a pirated version of the Seican. They look identical. It�s not uncommon for a Chinese contract manufacturer to copy something they are making under contract for one company and sell it under another name or let another company buy that identical part. Traeger smokers are copied for another American company, identically. In that case Traeger didn�t have any protection via copyright or similar. My Longate says �designed in Germany, manufactured in China� or something like that too!

Just ordered the DMX7705S from fleabay for 299.99. Guess will see what happens next week

Thank you both for your input. Please let me know how it goes with your conversion. It seems to me that If I replace the amplifier that I need to rewire the speakers as well. Is that correct? If so, it looks like I�m looking for the converter box that you all describe.

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i prob wont be much help for you. I am assuming since my car already has an aftermarket single din and aftermarket amp it will be really simple for me to do the double din swap. Assuming no hack job installer was in there

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I believe (but don't have direct experience with it) that you can reuse the existing wiring for the speakers. I don't think there's any proprietary BS going on there.

Did mine DIY with the Metra kit and the Kenwood DMX110BT. Whole project was only like $250.

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Sorry for the delay, yes you would need to rewire everything as you have fiber optic cables. These will NOT be compatible with any system unless you buy a system like we have

I also ended up with a Pioneer 4400 NEX, the same as above. I has 100% functionality with my amp and all speakers, including the sub woofer in the back. It sounds great. The Seican unit is the key. The only issue is you must have both usb's ran as one if for iphone and the other is for android. I also have a bit of alternator whine. Did anyone solve the alternator whine issue? I have a new battery and had a dedicated ground wired as the wiring harness one seems weak. Any input will be greatly appreciated

Just for completeness, I paid $1000 for the entire thing installed with an additional install for my R3 hardwire and my dash cam hardwire. Thanks

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Why would the speakers need to be desired? They aren�t Fiber Optic.

Just installed my DMX7705S. Thankfully it was easy since who ever did the single din jvc before had already installed aftermarket amps and all the wiring for the speakers was handled. All i had to do was deal with the radio. Now just gotta figure out how to make the trim ring fit.

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I am not sure your question, but I do apologize if I created confusion. The Bose system works as a complete unit. If you try to change your head unit, the system will not work. Even if you change your amp, the system will not work. You have 2 options: 1. Get a Seican unit or similar, ex: Longate. It takes Left and Right RCA jack input (from the head unit FRONT OUT connections) and turns them into digital signals that go to the MOST (fiber optic) system, so the Bose amp can get the signals. Change the head unit and you are set. 2. Re wire everything and change the amp + head unit. The speakers should still work after rewired. Does this make everything clear? Porsche did away with this MOST system and I think every manufacturer abandoned fiber optic cables (maybe others can chime in)

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Actually it's coming back! I went to a Denso training class a few days ago. They talked about the system is coming to multiple manufacturers soon. They didn't say which manufacturers though. It's also suppose to be copper based instead of fiber optic.

Hello LCP 150 it was my fist car . So first I change the original AMP to Pioneer GM then the head unit because the original NAV and the sound quality wasn't good cost to mush but I was happy.... My poor Porche Miss you((((`

Where did you get the USB / cig lighter piece? |Do you have a part number for that?

About MOST, I talked to an engineer at the company that makes a MOST adapter and he said the 2003-2004 996 used some nonstandard version of MOST (at least the Becker system--I don't know about the Bose system) . After running around in circles with this for a while, I just managed to get Bluetooth capability installed on my CDR-23 tonight (via FM radio). My 996 has the 490 sound option. There is a many-page Porsche document describing all of the changes in the audio system from 2002 to 2003. I think the 03 and 04 pretty much have a quirky solution that didn't get used moving forward to the 997. My options were use the FM adapter or replace the head unit and the amplifier. The Becker amp is a 6 channel amp and frankly, sounds pretty good plus I wanted to keep the stock look if possible, so I opted for the FM adapter which actually works pretty good.

2003 C4 cab with Bose most system. I have a Double DIN Kenwood and amp that I installed myself. The speaker wires are fine, do NOT need to rewire them. Just cut them off the Porsche amp (leave a little room so you can reconnect IF you ever want to go back to stock) and connect the speaker wires to the new amp. You do need to bypass the entire most system which is not hard.

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There are others but this works perfect and is flush! Amazon Amazon

Anyone have any recommendations on a double din head unit where the bezel more closely matches the plastic trim? I find the very common glossy black bezel aftermarket units out of place in the interior. So far it seems like the Sony units are the closest match? I really like this one: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV...ony_double_din . Apple Carplay, matte bezel, front USB plug, and a volume ****!! Cons would be no wireless car play, capacitive touch screen, and splash screen customization.

Attempting to do my install this week. I have the MOST converter since I have Bose. Does anyone have a picture or can tell me how/where to connect the red,black and yellow wires from the MOST unit? I've heard some use the unused phone plug or just piggy back on the harness itself. I just need to see where and how to connect them. Thanks.

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Can I ask which USB port you used? I unfortunately have a rather cheap looking rubberized one. The one you found looks much more professional. Does it connect to the double din radio? Or is it just for power?

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Just received this unit from Crutchfield and I plan to install this week. I paid the $25 to have Crutchfield pre-wire the adapter so hopefully the install goes smoothly. Will post when I�m done. The reason I went with the Sony is the volume **** and the price - it was on sale for $268 which seemed very reasonable. Including the Metra kit and pre-wiring I was right at $300 including shipping. Agreed that wireless car play would be nice but we don�t have that on our GTI and it is really not a big deal. More to follow... Daryll

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Who are you asking?

this is mine, phone connects with bluetooth as soon as I get in the car, handles all phone calls, music etc

He was asking me, and reached out via private message when I didn't reply here. For others: I used a power-only USB solution that also shows voltage. Amazon Amazon I connected it to ACC to via the phone hookup and Becker's premade connector. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-AUX...item3d89b4ea35

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Did the install today. Took about four hours; the last time that I did a car stereo installation was probably about 1982. If I had to do it again probably could cut the time in half. Very pleased with how it turned out, but ran out of time to program other than to check if it works. Not an easy install but straightforward - the hardest part was running the HVAC control cable down to the lower position. Very tight place to try to run a pretty thick wire bundle. Once that was done everything else was pretty straightforward. Took some thought before I cut into the big plastic dash piece - I don�t want to know what that would cost to replace if I screwed it up. But it worked out fine. Daryll

For my 996, I'd typically have no issue throwing down $1000-1500 for whatever the latest and greatest head unit is at the time. That said, I was dabbling in offshore Android units when I was upgrading my MX-5 and I was very impressed. So impressed that I ended up going with one for the 996. The HU I chose this time around was a Joying JY-UO135N4G ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQD4BP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQD4BP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) $310. CPU:Intel Airmont eight-core 1.8GHz SC9853i RAM: 4 GB 32 GB ROM DSP Physical volume control (along with real buttons for Home, Back, Nav and radio) These devices are basically Android tablets in a HU form factor. All I do is keep my Android phone (Pixel 3XL) in hotspot mode and as soon as I start the car, the Joying HU tethers to the phone. It really couldn't be any easier. Apps Used: Waze Google Maps Co-pilot (offline dedicated GPS app ~$30) Spotify Pandora HD radio Boot up time is fast, and the UI is lag free. DSP won't win any awards but who is going for audiophile sound levels when enjoying their P-car? I basically just want to get in the car and say "OK Waze, navigate to _____" , listen to a podcast/music/news along the way and maybe take a call or two. If you are over your Rockford-Fosgate phase, the latest Android head units are worth a look.

Spec-ing out this project rn on my 2K3; my OEM radio is finally dead. One question for the group, anyone put the climate controls up 1 bin from the bottom and/or is it possible. I don't particularly like it way down at the bottom. Secondly, looking at this install kit for my double din radio. Any thought/experience? Thanks! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...53.m1438.l2649

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Looking at that kit it appears to be very similar to what is in the Metra kit that was supplied by Crutchfield for my install. I'm not sure what the two foam pads are for, nor the shims or spacers. You might want to shop Crutchfield if for no other reason that to get some more information - the people there are helpful. Also one thing that Crutchfield did that saved me time and eliminated one potential place to screw up - they will pre-wire a wiring harness that plugs into the factory connectors. The alternative is to cut and strip about 16 different wires - no big deal but lots of chances to make a mistake in connecting the proper wire. I don't want to sound like a Crutchfield salesperson but they really did make the process much easier. Also I found that their pricing was very competitive on the head units and speakers - all four of my speakers were completely shot. Actually replacing the speakers is much trickier than the double-din conversion due to the poor design of the factory speakers. Not sure about putting the HVAC in the third position but it makes sense to me. The fourth position is pretty low and you really take your eyes off the road if you want to make an adjustment. But - I have never seen that and I don't know if anyone would have an adapter. The Metra kit has a really nice one-piece trim surround and cubby for the fourth position - it is not quite factory quality but it looks good enough (to me anyway). It seems worth checking out - there may even be factory pieces available - possibly Porsche installed the HVAC in the third position in some markets? The whole project was well worth doing - I'm happy with the sound quality (given the limitations of four tiny speakers) and with the looks of the unit in the car. People have commented how it looks like the console was designed for this type of head unit from the factory. Of course it was - the factory navi is a double-din unit. Ask away with any more questions! Daryll

Moved my HVAC to bottom, cubby for iphone with cable access, touch screen apple car play compatible. Love it.

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Looks very generic but maybe it is a good fit? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120999...a-99-9999.html There appears to be 2. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_264PAS...s-Service.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701...g-Harness.html I would call first to confirm. Do the harnesses take care of the optic fiber OEM amp or is a Seican-type adapter still required? Thank you.

[QUOTE=BMiller33;15997842]Looks very generic but maybe it is a good fit? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120999...a-99-9999.html That is not what I got. This was a specific Metra kit for Porsche 996. It had the mounting bracket, and a face plate that matched the console. If you scroll up a few posts you will see a good picture of my finished install, showing both the upper face plate and the lower face plate/cubby combo piece. There appears to be 2. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_264PAS...s-Service.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701...g-Harness.html I would call first to confirm. Do the harnesses take care of the optic fiber OEM amp or is a Seican-type adapter still required? That is a good question for Crutchfield - I would definitely give them a call. Just realized that you have a 2003, which has a completely different system than my '99 had. You will likely need an adapter for the fiber optic cables or possibly will need to bypass your amp - not sure. My car had the most basic stereo (with cassette holder!!), with no door speakers, so the wiring was simpler than yours will be. Daryll

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Sadly Crutchfield no longer supports the 996 wrt double din install. No frame kit nor adapters/interface to handle the OEM Bose amp & speakers. Looks like I'm in for a custom job. :-(

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Jacob - Care to share that Seicane PN? I was searching their site to verify what will work w/ OEM Bose speakers and amp no NAV as I also am installing double din unit. From what I can tell it might be the Cayene unit 11607101-2 model SC69 Thanks.

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I have been toying with the idea of an Android radio head and was interested in the fact that this one had a physical volume ****. Looks like it is already obsolete as it isnt on Amazon anymore. Newer versions dont have ***** and buttons. Still happy with you choice? I have been looking for someone with real life experience to ask how well they like it after living with it for a while.

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That�s the one I got (well, ordered). Will advise on the outcome.

I used the Xtrons fiber optic adapter on Amazon for Mercedes ML, GL and R series. It is $100 and works great. I do have a slight noise when I turn the car off, like a pop or crackle, but only sometimes. I don’t have any alternator wine unless the HU is on, but sources turned off. Even then it is barely noticeable. There are 2 versions. Make sure you get the ML, GL and R series. I’ve heard the other one doesn’t work as well.

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Thanks. I confirmed with them this is the correct unit. Good luck, I will be ordering this week.

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What is the PN on that Alpine unit? Thanks.

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i'll have to look when i get home and get back to you.

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OK thanks, I like how that looks, in process right now just need to select a unit.

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i think it's this but not 100%: Model: ILX-W650 its a touch screen, both apple and android compatible, and also sirius xm radio compatible. i just plug my iphone into the usb connection and it works great. only downside is using data when monitoring traffic, etc using waze app and apple music

the speed shop that installed it found the piece that surrounds it, making for a nice look. piece is made by "metra" if you want to google it.

Does it have BT? Yea I think that might be the model. Thx

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yes it has BT as far as i know. i am always hard-wired and dont utilize BT.

I also recommend you integrate a back up camera into rear license plate holder. it was not very expensive (<$300) and as soon as i shift into reverse the alpine displays a clear picture of what's behind me. good luck in whatever you select.

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Looks like you have '03+? Did you need the SEICANE converter to keep your Bose amp and speakers (fiber optic)?

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yes its an 03 c4s. not sure what the installer used, though i know they didnt mess at all with the door speakers based on their previous experience working on similar bose set ups in 996 models. pretty sure they replaced rear speakers and added an additional amp. sound is great. i'd be happy to supply the name of the shop if you want to call them and ask about the installation. they also did the back-up camera and k40 radar detector install for me, both of which i am a big fan of.

Here you go.

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Cool; thanks. Do you recall the backup camera you use (LOL)? I'm doing the install & HVAC relocation (cpt) myself, the 2K03+ requires a converter to make the Bose fiber optic speakers and amp work which is about another 100 bucks but well worth it so as not to have to rewire door speakers etc. I like it as close to OEM looking as possible, which is why I like this unit, very clean looking no frills..

No idea on camera. I know they removed rear end to install rear facing radar and wired camera at same time. Think i got break on labor since they were working in there anyway.

Difference in sound quality before and after was night and day. Extra amp must be the trick. Radio/cd were basically unlistenable prior and now really fill the car with quality sound.

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The struggle I have on unit to get is volume **** or no. Without the **** (Alpine) do you find it cumbersome making adjustments while driving?

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little weird without the vol **** at first, then u get used to using finger tip to raise/lower. the unit also has the ability to allow for custom motions, such as two fingers across the screen face to adj volume. mine is set up to allow that but i find myself still using finger tip. i also had a microphone installed to allow for hands free calling/answering, as well as to utilize siri to read txt messages and send them verbally. good luck

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where did you get that face plate?

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installer purchased it. believe its from company called "metra".

For those that wired DIY, 2 questions: 1. where did you tap for the +battery? I am guessing cig lighter? 2. my harness has an "illumination" wire, not sure what to do w that? Thanks.

Late to the party but I installed Atoto Year series double din 6 months ago. It is carplay/andriod auto + radio, mp3 and a very simple head unit. Install is a breeze for me as I bought a adapter for power/speaker output and plugged into the factory plug and into the HU. Didn't need any other wiring or plugs and worked very well. I only care for carplay to give me GPS function and play some music. Rest of time radio is sufficient in my need.

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When I bought the kit from Crutchfield they offered the option to pre-wire into a factory connector for $25. That was probably the best $25 ever spent - it made the installation plug and play, and eliminated me having to splice probably 15 different wires and get them right. So I guess in my case Crutchfield used whatever power lead was used by the factory; same for the illumination. The nice thing was that it works perfectly - the display dims when I turn on the headlights, and it powers up when I switch on the ignition. Really cannot recommend the pre-wire service highly enough. Daryll

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Good to know but not helping my situation.... :-)

This is what I used to built my adapter. I didn't have to tap into anything else other than rearrange the pins on the adapter. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...stallation.htm Pin 4 is your constant battery power according to the chart. There is a illumination is pin 6. Both on the black connector. This is the adapter that I bought and I only used the black one and rearrange the cable so the wire ends are attached to the new HU harness and the back end has it matched to the cable from the body. I did not use the Red connector since my car don't have AMP. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kln9go...caAsa_EALw_wcB

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READ THIS! https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxs...din-conversion . 1.+ battery tapped into the telephone connector 2. ORANGE/WHITE is illumination tap into the same on the wire harness of the car. Orange Illumination This wire must be run directly to an illumination source. This can be found at the cigarette lighter socket next to the radio. The cigarette lighter socket will have 3 wires running to it. The two thick wires are power. The thick brown wire is ground, and the third thin wire is illumination. This wire is typically grey with a blue stripe. Some vehicles are grey with a red stripe. Verify with a voltmeter to confirm. Connect the Orange wire from the radio harness to this circuit.

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Sorry - I did not realize that you had already purchased a system or some of the parts. Was not trying to drive you crazy :-) Daryll

I also have the Alpine ILXW650. Love it. I don't use CDs. Just wanted the biggest screen possible for my money. I use it with Apple Carplay.

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Source for the lower double-DIN setup please.

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Sorry, I don�t know. There was a double-DIN unit in that location already when I bought the car. I just swapped it out. I�ve seen pictures of it done on other cars, so I�m sure someone can help you, or Google maybe. I prefer the lower location. It is somewhat obstructed by the gear lever in some gears, but the upsides are that it�s less in-your-face, which is both more aesthetically pleasing and less distracting IMHO, esp at night. One thing I especially like about the unit is that, on auto-dim, it will get very dim indeed at night. I want a screen just bright enough to read comfortably; anything brighter is an unnecessary distraction and also bad for night vision, so I like this. A word about RGB buttons � true, this unit doesn�t have them, but I think it�s easy to overlook. The unit has only a thin row of white lettering at the bottom. The clash with the amber lights elsewhere never even occurs to me, and I am definitely picky about such things. Just my two cents.

Thinking about doing the very same install of a Pioneer 4400 NEDX in my 2001 C2 Cabriolet. What installation kit did you use? I see other folks using the Metro... Thanks, George

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I went with a Sony XAV-AX5000 with 4 Hertz CX 100 speakers for dash and rears, Morel Maximo Ultra 502 Coax for the doors and replaced the factory amp with a JL Audio XD600/6v2 . Has CarPlay and looks really clean:

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Hm, never saw a double-din installed there. I think it looks nicer than on top.

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[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1440x900/screen_shot_2018_04_19_at_6_54_46_pm_ac7c95aff269a3b6828b591f2cc5cdcb7b9675ab.png

I like Metro the best. I had the Suncoast one (cost me a pretty penny) and was not good. Sad, actually. Metro looks and fits the best.

ONLY $850!!!?

For those that did their own wiring to an existing Bose system (pre Most). I just finished an install on my 2002 w/Bose and used the speaker level outputs from the new Alpine iLX-W650 HU to the Bose amp. Everything I've been able to find showed that this was the way to connect. After finishing the install, I feel the amp is being over driven (sound volume is very loud even with lower volume settings on the HU, noise floor is high-hiss, etc.). I'm going to redo the wiring using the pre-amp outputs and see how the system performs. If I can't get full volume using the line level outputs from the HU, then the Bose amp is looking for a signal somewhere between speaker level and line level. I wouldn't put it past Bose to do this to discourage aftermarket replacements. We'll see. I brought a camera along for the install so I might put this up on Youtube.

I just read through all 95 posts here, and have been trading emails with CAI, and have learned a lot today. I plan to replace the single DIN after-market radio in the 2001 996TT that I just bought, current console pictured below. Note DSP option from factory as well. Goals of my installation: Android Auto integration, wireless, with Samsung S9 (and successors) Want lighting color that matches stock amber, and dims with cabin light dimming Prefer upper two DIN slots for the new screen, with cubby below that, and AC below cubby (as most of you have done) Not an audiophile, especially when driving any Porsche! Reuse existing speakers, amp? and wiring Want phone apps mirrored on the display, primarily Waze, Spotify, and phone and SMS functionality Leaning toward wanting a mic for the phone, and backup camera, but neither of those is a must-have I like using Torque app with BT adapter on OBDII port, and would love to have a full custom Torque screen when not using Waze, phone call, SMS, etc. Not terribly price sensitive, and more than that, looking to avoid a nightmare install, especially on trim and wiring Zero interest in CD / DVD functionality Ideally the install looks as factory as possible when all done Extra credit points for being able to flash a Porsche logo on screen at startup. Bias against Pioneer, as I gave them a lot of money ten years ago for my F150 system, and BT connectivity has never worked well there. All ears for any suggestions you have. Leaning Kenwood, but a few of you posted about Joying as well. Thanks. . .

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I had most of the same requirements, and went with a Kenwood DMX905s (might be a newer version). Really happy with it. Porsche logo is easy to flash and backlight colors can be changed. Didn't figure out how to get the Torque app displayed but apparently there's an Android Auto hack for that. Going to look into it more once my rebuild is done.

+1 on Kenwood. I went with the DMX 7706S which has a small size due to the lack of CD/DVD. I use Apple CarPlay and have added a back-up camera in my 2001 996 C2 Cab. You should have a straightforward swap with the aftermarket head unit you already have, but I would recommend to get the Metra kit to relocate the climate controls down to where your cd holder is now and also get the wiring harness kit. Are you happy with current sound quality? Does the DSP unit work as it should? Rod at CAI is a great resource and if you are planning to upgrade speakers and or amp then I would recommend getting a complete system from him.

Thanks @yaz996. I just ordered a Kenwood DMX9706S from Crutchfield ($499), along with install kit, backup camera and steering remote, $740 total. Here is a key sentence from the Crutchfield description page for those (like me) who hope to run the Torque app on the screen: " Additionally, Kenwood's built-in Wi-Fi allows you to wirelessly mirror select Android devices on your touchscreen while your parking brake is engaged, so you can view an app not supported by Android Auto." Just need to spoof the parking brake sensing.

@bill_996 Glad to hear your happiness with the Kenwood unit. I traded a few emails with Rod at CAI, but found the CAI web site to be really confusing and inferior to Crutchfield, and I have no plans to modify amp or speakers. Haven't listened to sound system yet as car is still 2,000 miles east, awaiting shipment. I am going to move AC to the bottom slot, and I understand from multiple sources that DSP unit stays connected, but stuffed inside the console.

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Great. Definitely share when you get it setup. My unit has WiFi and wireless Android Auto, and it looks like they issued the last firmware update just before my cracked cylinder, so hopefully I'll have the same functionality available.

Here's mine:

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I'll be following along with your install as I want a similar setup but with Apple CarPlay. My '99 has the DSP like yours and the original Porsche head unit. I have a Kenwood DNX573S (2017) in my Outback. It disconnects from the phone several times per day. I haven't been able to find any information about this so it may have been a bad install by Best Buy. I had them replace the USB input to the unit but that didn't solve the problem. I've used several cables, 2 iPhones with several generations of operating systems and have upgraded the Kenwood to the newest software to no avail. So, I was actually thinking of going with Pioneer! Or maybe Alpine. Let me know if you leave your DSP in or have to replace the amp.

I'm going to answer my own question and post that if you're going to wire your new head unit into an existing Bose system, you want to use the pre amp outputs. Don't put speaker level into the amp. I just finished an installation of an Alpine iLX-W650 and tried it both ways. The Alpine has a 4V pre amp and volume level is fine. If your radio has less than 4V, it may not be loud enough. In that case, just use a line level converter and play with the gain until you get the Bose system to sound OK.

Great info in this thread - just finished my install. Here's my steps - hope it helps others. Ordered from Crutchfield - nice one stop shop. Kit includes Metra mounting kit, keys, etc. From the advice I've read - ordered their prewired adapter. Made installation very easy (no wiring issues). Only things I forgot to order initially were the parking brake bypass and USB port for cubby. Starting point. Need to relocate HVAC to position 4. For my 1999 C2 - horseshoe is separate pieces. Remove entire center console. Just 4 torx screws. Empty space! For rerouting HVAC harness, found it easier to remove the lower center console. Just a few screws on each side. Easier to reroute - still was the most time consuming step. One plug at a time. Rerouted! The phone/aux plug - anyone make a harness for this themselves? Contacted Becker Audio - they no longer sell the harness pigtail. Test fitting the head unit, Metra kit, etc. Wish the top/bottom were equal, but haven't seen a kit where that was the case. Reinstalled HVAC controls and Metra trim/cubby. Test run to make sure everything works. Modify center console - I needed to cut off all the mounting tabs, not just the bottom ones indicated in the Metra instructions. Leave horizontal mounting guides. Test fit. Metra bracket that holds radio from sliding forward. That bottom protrusion posed a problem for me. Hadn't heard others mention that. Test fit looks good. Bottom of the Metra bracket caused interference. Tried installing without this bracket, but the radio is too loose without it. Modification. Cut off the bottom protrusion. Screw up top. Large zip tie around bracket to hold in place. Hole for USB port in cubby. Finished! M

Looks great! Funny, that bottom protrusion on the Metra bracket caused me some issues as well, but I was able to install without modifying. Unfortunately I forgot how I got it in place. Otherwise your install looked exactly like mine - I found re-routing the HVAC cables the most difficult part as well. Did you run your microphone wire to the top of the windshield? I have a cabrio so mounted the mike on the center console near the head unit. Does not work great but acceptable. Daryll

I haven't finalized the mic location yet - wanted to put in the cutout to the left of the gauge cluster, but read on here that doesn't function well in that location. Is there a recommendation for location that works well and is discrete? Or a way to just use the mic in the phone instead?

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I put my Kenwood mic at the top of the horseshoe as well using the two-sided tape and it works great. I would have preferred the more discrete factory location next to the gauge cluster but have heard the same concerns as you re: sound quality. With Apple CarPlay I don't want to have to pick up my phone while driving.

I ended up taking a video of my install and tried a different mic location. You can see it at 31:05 here - https://youtu.be/7FWd_gPaXuw?t=1865 I've made a number of phone calls at different speeds with great results. Even my wife can speak to the caller from the passenger seat and be heard fine.

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NICE WORK! This brings back memories lol. I recall the part I struggled with most was just rerouting the HVAC wiring. Took me forever to get it moved. I clip my mic right above the "shelf" below the radio and I have no issues with people hearing me. I also opted to replacing my cigarette lighter with a usb as apposed where you added it in the "shelf"

What have you all done vis-a-vis the parking switch wire? A youtube video (Circa 2016) says just ground it to the radio frame, but others say that no longer works, need to buy the bypass widget on Amazon. I have zero interest in opening up the center console for this.

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I haven't finished my install, but powered up the Kenwood this morning, and all basic functions good. Phone pairing via Bluetooth, Spotify, phone charging, calls and texting, AM, FM, etc. Per guidance of others, I left the DSP module connected, and stuffed behind the AC module in the bottom DIN slot. And yes, like others, the hardest part of the job thus far was getting the AC cables routed properly into the bottom DIN slot. Still to go: final fit of head unit in top two slots (frame dremmel'd and ready for final approach) Android Auto (need to thwart parking switch logic somehow first) Backup camera install decide Mic location and routing decide GPS puck location and routing Waze Torque Pro Porsche logo splash screen

Grounded it to the radio frame, no issues....

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Tried that. No joy. A few years ago that reportedly worked, but manufacturers (or at least Kenwood) got more sophisticated in thwarting the Thwarters. Now apparently one needs to use something like this this . Curious what make and year your head unit is.

Get a bypass switch. Here's the one I used for the Alpine: Amazon Amazon They have a selection for different head units. Amazon Amazon Finally mounted my microphone. Found just behind the steering wheel worked well and is fairly hidden.

How come no one puts the microphone in the actual spot to the left of the gauges?

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When I went to install mine there, there was a microphone there already. I am curious to see if there is a way to use the existing microphone.

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Very cool. I'm doing my plugs, tubes, coils and oil next weekend. After I get over the emotional trauma of doing that I'll start on the stereo. I haven't bought any thing yet but I've been doing a lot of research (web surfing). I'll probably get a Pioneer since I'm disappointed in how the CarPlay acts in my Kenwood unit. I haven't decided on the mid-range or the really nice one. Pretty sure I want wireless CarPlay though. The CAI website has good information on getting this all to work. Like you, I was able to find out you need to keep the DSP connected if you want to keep using the factory amp (I do). I still need to research what the amp inputs are. They also have detailed instructions for installing a backup camera which I think I want to do also. Oooh! I wonder if anyone has ever gotten a little IR camera and mounted it in the front bumper in case of unexpected fog?? Crutchfield has a service that will pre-wire your harness for you but their other information is lacking. The doc they have for 996 stereo installation looks like they gave an intern 10 minutes to do it. So I'll probably go with CAI. I think I'm going to put my mic in the stock location near the left side of the instrument cluster. I see mixed reports on the sound quality there. Some say it sucks there and it sounds better on the A pillar & some say it's just as bad in both places. I also saw people reporting that callers could hear their own voices. I think this is a function of the phone not filtering that out though, not mic placement.

Did you guys see that Porsche is now offering upgraded 2-DIN factory for bunch of old models, including 996? What do you think about it? Here's their post from facebook ad: Classic on the outside, high-tech on the inside. The new Porsche Classic Communication Management & PCCM Plus infotainment systems bring old timers into the style of the times. Find out more: https://porsche.click/ClassicPCCM

[QUOTE=Horsepwr;16532509]NICE WORK! This brings back memories lol. I recall the part I struggled with most was just rerouting the HVAC wiring. Took me forever to get it moved. I clip my mic right above the "shelf" below the radio and I have no issues with people hearing me. I also opted to replacing my cigarette lighter with a usb as apposed where you added it in the "shelf"[/QUOTE Nice job!

old Alpine that had screen that popped out every time you started the car!!!!!!! New Pioneer 8500NEX bought Suncoast Radio Install Kit to make installation easier. Couldn't be happier

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I'm curious about that as well. The dealbreaker for me on PCCM Plus is the fact that it doesn't support a backup camera. I love the look, I love the fact that it has a dedicated volume ****, and I can tolerate the fact that it doesn't support Wireless Android Auto. But I can't imagine putting in a new head unit with a large display like that and not putting in a backup camera, too. Speaking of which, is it really so much to ask that aftermarket stereo manufacturers provide a volume **** with Wireless Android Auto? I really like the Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX except for its lack of a volume **** (and the fact that it's been out of stock at Crutchfield for a while). To get Wireless Android Auto and a volume ****, you have to go with the Kenwood DMX1037S , which I don't like because it's twice as expensive and it has that stupid, floating look that makes it look like you've glued a tablet to your dashboard. (I know that's all the rage with some of the OEMs right now, but I hate it.)

I just had mine installed last week by Indy and have them install in the factory location. If you go to the dealer, they won't do it that way which may be a reason why so many are installed with double tape on steering column.

PO installed my Pioneer double din...microphone is clipped into trip at top of windshield next to mirror....works well there. At sub 60 speeds with the top down there is (according to those I speak with, almost no background noise). at 80mph plus with the top down, I had to yell a bit over the background noise, lol.

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This isn't the first time I've heard lack of backup camera as being a negative. I guess I don't understand why it's such a big deal for such a small, svelte sports car. I suppose if someone lives in big city and is worried about tight parking...but otherwise, folks have lived without it fine for 18+ years...why is it a deal breaker now? I have to say I've really been enjoying the PCCM+ in the short time it's been in my car. I had local installer incorporate the media box into the lower batwing (instead mounting in cubby or putting in glove box) which gives it an OEM look. The unit itself works really well....and it looks like it belongs. That alone was worth the premium $ over putting in quality aftermarket radio. I wanted it to look like it belongs in my 18yo car....and it does.

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^^^^ --- This! I HATE not having the volume ****! I've worked in IT for almost 30 years so I'm no technophobe. Good user interface design would dictate that you don't have to concentrate on an almost invisible 1/8" square to change the goddamn volume while in a moving car. "Hey! Let's make the driver really concentrate on the screen to do the simplest tasks! That's an awesome idea!" My guess is that they assume the stereo is going to be connected to a steering wheel control but it's still annoying as hell.

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My company car randomly displays this message. I guess GM doesn't see the humor in a message about taking your eyes off the road that requires you to take your eyes off the road to clear. At least it has a volume **** though.

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Because it's great? I love having it on my daily driver. Plus, the only times I've ever ran into anything it's been backing up. Granted, it's been almost two decades since I did that last (I was a teenager when I backed into something), but I'd prefer not to do that with this car. If it was easy to add other little quality of life gadgets like this to my 911, I'd totally want to do that, too. (Like adaptive cruise control! I've wanted that forever.)

I have a backup camera in all my cars. Have it in my 996 and would miss it if it was gone. I would love to "upgrade" to this PCCM unit but will not without a camera!

I agree a back up camera is a must today especially with the *** on a 911 bigger then KIMS for 1300 Porsche pccm should have every modern addition just wrong of Porsche to gouge Mike

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It's like they had the price point figured out but then took too long to finish the product and get it to market - so it's priced as the premium product it would have been 5 years ago. I think it looks great, and will be great for people that aren't worried about wireless features or camera input - but it's priced as if it does everything. I would pay the premium for it if it had those, because I'm one of the lucky ones with the Bose system - replacing requires so much more effort and extra "stuff". If I could buy the PCCM and a camera and have everything, it would be worth it.

To each there own I suppose...for me, I don't mind turning my head to see where I'm going as I back up in my 996. Now, put me in my wife's SUV....I do use the backup camera cause it's got a whole lot of junk in the trunk! Lol. Of the two main missing options in the PCCM+ (wireless CarPlay and backup camera)....the one that gave me the most pause before pulling the trigger was not having wireless CarPlay. Again, personal preference...but I got over it and am enjoying it.

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I'd like to have a backup camera for the times I'm backing out of a parking space between two SUVs (which is just about always). The good ones warn when a car is approaching from any direction.

the Porsche version looks great and would have considered it except my car had a backup camera already installed, it may have been a deal breaker. My 2015 T has a backup camera as well as our Subaru and I have just gotten used to the feature. waiting in the future for Porsche to delete side mirrors and go to a all camera system

I have the CAMECHO 7 which is easy to install. Boot time is pretty fast compared to other similar items. Screen resolution is very sharp. Touch very well. The Bluetooth connection is perfect. Very nice sound. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto compatible. The only hard part was getting it to mirror link thru the usb cable. The radio's manufacturer gave me a vague hint on what to do. Download an app called "USB debugging". Thru that I was able to get my Android 7 phone to mirror link with the Camecho deck.

So we're about 85% of the way through the install of my new Sony stereo and having the oddest problem. We finally got the wires routed for the HVAC controls tonight, but the panel won't fit into the dash. It gets close, but there's a quarter inch gap for some unfathomable reason. We can't see any obvious thing that it's running into. It's almost like the controls just don't fit quite right. I did a little googling and I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue. Is my car just special?

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Do you have the correct trim pieces? I put a cubby at the top of the lower stack (no trim piece needed) and my hvac in the lower position, with two screws holding it and a trim piece that is angled to fit that tapered section of the lower stack. The hvac should fit just above the �batwing� trim piece at the bottom.

Yes you need a different trim piece! Its slightly angled towards the bottom.

I've got the Metra 99-9605B Dash Kit from Crutchfield . I didn't see anything in that kit or its instructions for changing the trim on the bottom of the center stack. It just has the trim piece that goes over the top of the HVAC controls after they're attached. SqdAG3C.jpeg We're stuck on the part in figure A. It looks like we just put it in there and screw it in. But we're stuck with that quarter inch gap. So we need to replace the whole surround piece that the HVAC controls screw into?

Should fit right in. Do you maybe still have the trim piece attached? Check that there isn't anything obstructing it behind it. Wires maybe? Maybe something fell or dropped down behind it. I ve done several of these and never had a problem.

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The factory kit comes with a separate plastic frame for the AC control unit. The frame for the upper cubby is molded to the unit. Now, the metra kit it an all-in-one cubby and lower trim for the AC control unit. You first noodle the AC control cable to the low area, slide and fasten the AC unit in place, then slide the Metra upper cubby/trim unit, and then lastly snap in the bad wing cover afterwards. Pretty straight forward. Personally, I like the factory design better because the textured plastic matches better than the aftermarket Metra unit.

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Something's getting in the way - likely wires are bunching up behind it. Take it out, reposition the wires and reinstall - it should slide right in.

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I thought it was the wires, too, but it looks like it's the rounded back edge of the HVAC panel itself. Which is weird and makes absolutely no sense. I'll have to record a video of it. I've never heard of anyone having this problem. Honestly, this whole install has been kind of a nightmare. 😆

It turns out that there were some problematic spring clips on the sides that were causing our issues. TDgCoah.jpeg That's one more problem down!

Bumping for the great picture tutorial in here vetfever