And so it begins. DIY RMS/DMF/LSD/Clutch replacement

Hey everyone, Finally inspired to get working on the above noted, much needed, repairs to our beloved 996 C2, dubbed Po'boy. But first, allow me to introduce myself. I've been in love with the 996 model ever since I first laid eyes on a 996.1 GT3 nearly 20 years ago. It had always been my long term dream car. For the past 8 years or so we had been looking at various 996 models, mainly focusing on turbo variants. My wonderful girlfriend and I had been looking to purchase a TT toy, drive it for a few summers and then sell it. We had several opportunities back when good examples were still relatively cheap and plentiful, but the idea of spending $40K CAD on essentially a rental car made us nervous. And now that those same cars are going for upwards of $80k, we are of course kicking ourselves. Flash forward to 3 years ago, right before my 35th birthday. My girlfriend suggested we just focus our search on finding the cheapest running 996 C2 we could find. Armed with this new strategy, and wanting to strike before she changed her mind, we bought the 2nd cheapest 996 then listed in Ontario, a 1999 C2 coupe. And despite the growing list of DIY repairs completed on the car, we have loved every minute of it. There has been nothing more satisfying than wrenching together on a car in my driveway as neighbours look on, probably thinking we are nuts for DIYing our Porsche in 10 degree weather. That being said, we have left a growing number of issues to get worse, to the point where we have no choice but to pull the car off the road and tackle them all at once. So starting today, we will be replacing the following items, and performing the various repairs. (in no particular order). Clutch DMF RMS IMS seal LSD carrier bearings (likely sending it to be rebuilt) OEM 997 shifter upgrade addressing various oil leaks replacing external chain tensioners spark plugs Water pump And before everyone jumps on me, yes, I specifically left the IMS bearing off the list. Being a dual row bearing car with over 250,000km my intention is to leave the original bearing in place. The PO stated that the person he bought the car from did the IMS, but with absolutely no service history I will have no way to verify until we remove the transmission. I am hoping once there I can assess the bearing for play or roughness and determine if I should replace it or take a gamble on leaving it in. I would appreciate any advice or tips along the way. Let the craziness begin!

Car up on QuickJacks 7000XL, bought on clearance from Costco, with SUV adapters for extra clearance

I regret not getting a QJ when they were on sale at Costco. They still have a good price on them but it was a good deal when they were on sale over the holidays.

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I'm sure there will be more sales in the near future.

I would suggest you are making a potentially grave mistake on not replacing the IMS bearing while you have the engine and transmission apart. Dual row bearings have been known to fail, my own experience with my 1999 Boxster should inform your decision. Took the transmission out to change clutch/PP/TO bearing/RMS, and the Dual Row IMS bearing. When I got the original dual row IMS bearing out it was rough and the center stud was wobbly. I would say it was well on its way to failure, but I was still surprised at its state of deterioration, given that the dual row is praised for its stout nature. The Boxster, which has the same engine architecture as the 996 just smaller bores, only had 70K miles (130KM's?) on it when I did this work. Also, I do not think you can accurately assess the condition of the existing IMS Bearing without removing it, by which point you may as well replace it with a new one. Without documentation that the IMS Bearing has been changed, I would repose no confidence in anecdotal comment from the individual whom sold you the car that the previous owner changed the IMS Bearing. So I think you would be well served in the long run to spend the additional $ and do the IMS Bearing NOW! I chose the Vertex Cylindrical Roller Bearing for my Boxster due to its having 5X the radial load capacity as the ball bearing. That was 18K miles ago and so far so good. Was gonna put the same Vertex bearing in my 996, but to my surprise I discovered that it has a replacement engine with the larger single row ball bearing that requires splitting the engine cases to access. Anyway. good luck with your project, been down that road twice myself with the 996 and the Boxster and its definitely doable and rewarding upon completion. Just take lots of pictures as you disassemble to aid in reassembly, and be methodical, tag electrical and hose connections, tag and bag fasteners, make life easy for yourselves, you'll be glad you did. Best of luck.

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And, don't forget, the replacement IMS bearings have a set lifespan as well. To the OP, do yourself a favor and check for bore scoring. If all is well, install the IMS solution for the long term solution!

I agree with the above posters, while you are in there replace the IMS bearing. As others have said, the replacement bearings have a lifespan as well. Not knowing when the PO replaced it, I would do it. Relatively inexpensive since you are in there. I have done all the jobs you posted on my back in my garage on my C4S. Let me know if you have any questions.

I have the original dual row in my car, a 64k mile 99. But if I were having to do a clutch, or RMS, I�d replace the IMSB. The reason is similar to going to the doctor every year for bloodwork, even though I think and know I�m healthy. It�s validation. And maybe if we catch something early enough, it�s the difference between life and death. The fact that this car of yours has 250k is more a testament to the IMS than the IMSB, IMO. Since you are doing this work yourself, get the validation. As for LSD replacement, what does that all entail? Does the trans have to come out from the Diff? My car has a Diff too, and I�ve read that aftermarket is better than stock.

There is a common belief here that the cheapest running 996 you can buy often turns out as the most expensive 996 to own.

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Thank you for the comment. I was going to quote everyone who made the pretty obvious recommendation that I replace the IMSB with a little reasoning as to why I might leave it the original one in. #1. I don't know for certain if it's the original IMSB. I'm hoping once I remove the transmission I'll see some indication of it being an LN Bearing that will give me some reassurance that it's been replaced. #2. I'm hoping once I get to that stage and I remove the IMS flange and seal I can feel the bearing for free play and/or roughness as I stated in the original post #3. Our car's value is largely just sentimental at this point. with over 250,000km the car is definitely showing it's age and with some questionable history including a probably track accident resulting in a driver's side respray - it's just not worth more than the sum of it's parts. The idea of spending another $2k on an IMSB that it may or may not need to get us to the next phase of it's life seems unnecessary. #4. If we determine that it is the original IMSB, we almost relish the idea of trying to be the first 996 to get to over 300K without a IMSB replacement or major engine rebuild. I'm actually sure others have done it, but in my mind we'd be the first! you make a good point. I read somewhere that once you access the bearing you can feel it for play or roughness but that might have been with it already removed. And obviously if I'm going so far as to remove the IMBS I will ultimately replace it with a new one. ​

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To be honest, i don't know why we are going to get the LSD rebuilt. We don't track the car or drive it hard enough to even notice if it's working, but for some reason my GF has always had a thing for LSDs and she is going to pay for our factory LSD to be rebuilt just because. The main reason we are removing it is because the carrier bearings on the ends have worn out and they make a loud droning noise so they need to be replaced. I don't know if you can remove the diff with the transmission in place on a C2 - maybe others can chime in? I've seen it done on a 996.2 GT3 but I don't know if we have the same clearances on our cars.

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And we sorta knew that going in. I once heard the phrase "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Porsche" and it's definitely rang true in our case. That being said, part of the joy of ownership with this car has been in the knowledge we've gained while tackling so many repairs ourselves. If I had to run to an Indy every time something failed on this car, I'd have been broke long ago!

DAY 1 Progress: not much to report. I just removed some of the belly pans and assessed the damage. I'll post pictures of some of the terrifying oil leaks which has necessitated the project happening now. I made the mistake of overfilling the engine oil on a couple of occasions and I believe that accelerated much of the weeping you see. Plus we had our AOS go recently, and in my haste to replace it I don't think I fully installed it to the block correctly, something I will re-do once I get the transmission out. DS bank valve cover gasket leaking Does anyone know if I need to remove the diagonal braces to remove the transmission? various oil leaks from my newly replaced AOS

Does anyone know what this large vacuum line is or where it may go? I found it dangling here on the DS bank, just to the right of the valve cover. Thank you.

I found it easier to access the transmission with the diagonal braces removed. They are super simple to remove and give you more room to work.

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that's what I thought and feared. Where I've got the car lifted is right under the factory jack point, but the jack pads on the SUV adapters are covering access to the bolts for the braces. I guess I can drop the car/lift and remove the braces before proceeding further. Thank you

Ha! Yeah, that's a bummer... You need to get some kind of "standoff" under those jack points so the plastics don't get pinched and you'll be able to get them out. I use the "hockey pucks" that are hard enough to give you room to slide the plastics out. It looks like the rubber on your lift is a little thin and it just sort of molds around the lift point and pinches the plastic... PITA! Good luck

I did all of the engine related jobs on your list and IMO, replacing the IMSB was the easy part compared to all the rest. I can't imagine why you would not replace it once you get disassembled to that point.

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See Point #4 in my reasons to leave it in above! We don't know if Porsche hands out a special award for going this many kilometres on an original IMSB, but if they don't, I'm sure we will make out own. Also, I'm not afraid of doing jobs twice. If we blow up this engine then it's decision time (and maybe an opportunity for a full bored out rebuild).

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It's probably the coolant overflow/vent line. Follow it back up to the coolant expansion tank, and if that's where it goes, you're all set, nothing to worry about.

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wow, thanks for the response. Could that explain why I was getting some coolant splashing on my DS exhaust tip after a spirited drive? That tube location seems to match up perfectly to the exhaust. I was worried I had a cracked expansion tank.

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Certainly possible, although there shouldn't be any significant amount of coolant coming out of there unless your system was recently [over]filled.

Why replace the water pump then, given reason #4? It�s just as much of a wear item and risk as the IMSB. You could get 20 years out of a water pump. Are you going to replace the coolant as well?

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Good point, I had it on my shopping list which is why I included it. That being said, I have seen tiny particles of brown plastic in my oil filter. Could be tensioner plastic, or impeller plastic? Coolant was last flushed in 2018 when I replaced both rads.

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Yeah, I would leave it. It�s not a big cost, but combined with the fluid and a hose that might then need to be replaced, it adds up. Brown plastic = tensioner pads. I had the same thing and had to replace my pads this year.

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The brown plastic is likely from timing chain tensioner pads. If you have parts of your water pump in your oil filter, you have a whole other set of problems!!

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good point! Ya i figured it was tensioner related. I'm going to replace the crusted out diagonal braces while I'm here. Local Porsche parts dismantler has these 3 pieces. I assume the bottom one is for our 996, and the top 2 I have no idea (986?). I think the 996 ones are the same length for both sides but I am not currently able to measure them. Can anyone please chime in?

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If I had your money, I'd burn mine.

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Mddle one looks to be cross brace, Top one looks like a mangled cross brace. Bottom one is a diagonal.

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Thank you, she confirmed the bottom one is definitely a 996 diagonal brace. the other 2 have no part numbers so she can't tell. Money is subjective, it's all about how we choose to spend what we have.

DAY 2/3 Update: So work officially began -removed both driveshafts -struggled for nearly 3 hours to remove the slave cylinder. They said bolt access was difficult and they were correct. Of course now that I figured out what works, it'll be much easier next time (I hope there's not a next time!). And I found once I got the bolts out, the slave was incredibly difficult to remove. Pro Tip: I had my GF step on the clutch and the slave popped right out. I don't know if that's the correct thing to do, but it sure beat struggling to remove it by hand. -removed shift cables and freed them from the bracket holder (again a real struggle as they seemed to be welded to the bracket - removed reverse switch harness It was just before this pic that I managed to drop a flashlight on my eye socket, decided now was a good time to wear my safety glassess.. - removed all but one of the bellhousing bolts, of course I didn't have the triple square socket set that I thought I did - so I couldn't remove the last #10 triple square bolt Next update should have the transmission finally out, and I can begin to further assess the damage and what parts I'll need to replace. Based on the appearance of some of the bolts, it looks as though the transmission has indeed been removed once before, so *fingers crossed* i'm hoping I can see evidence of an IMSB replacement during it's life.

Keep up the great work! It�s inspiring.

Well done Chris! If you have a buddy, I’d suggest enlisting him when pulling the transmission down (and putting it back up). It’s MUCH easier, and safer to have another body with you, it’s heavy, sticky and awkward.

I second JTT's advice above, get a helper for the heavy stuff. I have managed by myself to get the trans out of my Boxster and 996, and the engine and trans out of the 996, and scared the crap out of myself on several occasions. Better safe than sorry.

Be sure to track the trans bolts carefully. They are different lengths (as I'm sure you know) and the wrong bolt length can do serious damage!

Can you find a cheap transmission jack to buy, or maybe rent one? That made my trans drop possible without calling an ambulance. I replaced that pesky triple-square bolt with an allen-head bolt in case there's a next time. Keep the pics coming!

Safety glasses are not optional! I’m curious to hear if you notice a difference with the rebuilt LSD when driven on public roads. I’m sure mine is toast (95k mikes), but I haven’t been able to decide if it’s worth the money to rebuild/replace it. I do AX regularly, but I know a) the LSD is not keeping me from the top of the timesheets and b) we’re losing access to the AX sites anyway due to development.

Chrisl where�d you go? Updates please.

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Updates will be coming more frequently now, my GF and I are on staycation for a week so more time to work on the car. DAY 4 UPDATE: Thanks for all the advice and comments so far, definitely provides the extra motivation and confidence to get this job done. We heard most stores in our area would be closing as of Sunday at 12am so yesterday (Saturday) I headed to our local tool shop Princess Auto (think: Harbor Freight Tools for my American Friends) to get all the necessary stuff to complete the job. First, had to don my trusty N95...you can never be too safe these days... Picked up the essentials... And thanks for the advice on bringing in a friend to help, I always intended to ask my friend Jack to help pull the transmission.. So with all the tools I now needed (including the all important triple square set) I began getting to work... freed up the stuck trans drain bolt, at the expense of my poor hand... is it just me, or does this remind anyone else like a beautiful shot of espresso being extracted?? Mixed with trans fluid, for extra crema so I get everything lined up, trans jack in place...front of engine supported...trans mounts removed. and I begin to slowly try to separate the trans...and NOTHING. Won't budge. it was at this point I figured it would be good to check to see how many trans bolts I removed....7. 7 seems like an odd number. So I go to check the trans belhousing, and sure enough, way up at the top in the worst possible position I find the 8th bolt. FFS. So feeling a bit defeated, we took a break to game plan. Finished the rest of my caffeinated beverage and decided the safest thing to do was re-install the trans brackets, remove the jacks and get into a better position to remove the last bolt. So after about an hour of extra work, it was time to attempt trans pull #2. and...SUCCESS!!! I can't believe how satisfying it was to see the trans start to slip away from the engine, and the whole process of using the jack to carefully lower it to the ground was extremely cathartic. Definitely a lot of oil sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing, so I'll know how badly the leak is soon. By next update I hope to have the clutch, flywheel, and LSD removed. We also began ordering all our parts, which in itself is becoming a challenge with so many parts stores being closed down. Stay tuned!! -Chris

and here a little vid to capture the moment the trans came out... You Tube ..safe to say I was a little giddy..

Well done Chris! Congrats! It will be even more satisfying when you put it back into place successfully!

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And you can remove the rust and repaint them while your at it. oops I just read the entire thread - I must have skipped over the part where you said you�re replacing them!

Congrats, Chris. I'm enjoying your IMS journey because I did mine just 2 months ago. Now that the trans is out, you'll find a lot of room to get at the clutch, flywheel, IMS bearing and RMS. I was able to sit up straight to work on the next steps. I guess I should have warned you about the pesky top bolt on the bell housing. I had to put together every 3/8 and 1/2 extension I had to reach nearly 3 feet. It's also a lot of fun to torque! Be sure to buy new flywheel bolts as they are "one-use". Please keep posting.

DAY 5/6 UPDATE: Diff cover off, LSD out, and inspection of the bearings and races. The carrier bearings felt ok but it's clear there is some scoring and pitting on the diff cover side bearing race. I'm dropping the trans off at my indy mechanic to have new bearings pressed in. Did some light cleaning of the inside of the bell housing. New diff and shaft seals will be installed. Porsche Special Tool #2594: Flywheel Lock...lol. Glad I spotted this from another thread, just found a perfect piece of scrap metal around the house, had to enlarge the hole to fit the transmission bolt. Clutch & Flywheel off. Tried to use a power tool to remove the first pressure plate bolt - big mistake. Ended up rounding out the bolt. After several failed attempts at pounding in a larger allen socket I finally got it free by hammering in a larger Torx socket and was able to free the bolt. finally the big mess is revealed. Did some light cleaning of the back of the engine. Definitely some oil weeping from both the RMS and the IMS flange seals. Can anyone identify the IMSB from the pic of the flange? It seems to match some pictures of original flanges from what I have researched. Nonetheless the flange seal will be replaced for sure. I will decide if the IMSB will be replaced once I remove the flange and feel the bearing movement. NEW PARTS! Thank you Rock Auto for having the best prices on the clutch and flywheel, plus a few maintenance items. I also would like to give a big shout out to Porsche Oakville for working with us on the various seals and bolts we needed. The parts manager Estuardo Hernandez was very patient with my order and helpful as well, plus we got a "vintage" car discount, lol. We spent $180 CAD on just a few seals and bolts, but getting this fancy *** Porsche tote bag was worth the overpriced parts. Also, I had contacted a few Rennlisters who have made the special RMS tool. While both users were very helpful I was afraid that shipping would take too long and might get held up at the border. I put my girlfriend on the case and she was able to find the 3D printing plans online. We found a local 3D print shop, and $23 CAD later we had this... Next update, sparks plugs will be replaced. I'll be inspecting and/or replacing the chain tensioners, and hopefully replacing the RMS and IMS flange seals. If the 3D printed tool ends up working out I will post the link to the thingiverse.com plans.

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This pic brought back memories. Funny, how relatively comfortable it is sitting up in there huh? The scariest part for me was torquing the flywheel bolts. As you are aware, they are torque to yield. I used a small protractor to get the angle, marked with sharpie, then went about the tightening ritual. Both feet braced on frame, lying under the car with a 24� breaker bar, pulling way harder than it felt right to do. Keep going, your well on your way!

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It's good to see you having such fun doing a procedure I call "work" !!! Oh and FYI, you can tell your old RMS is not the newest design by the round holes around the perimeter, the newest design should have rectangles.

Looks like you are making great progress, I would have quit 5 days ago lmao

Chris, you probably know this, but don't forget to lock you cams and remove the chain tensioners before you remove the IMS cover. Good job man, it is fun to do what you are doing.

Just when the thread gets interesting it ends???

Quick update, we sorta pushed pause on work as covid hit and we just wanted to enjoy summer. I have another 90s german coupe that wasn't being driven much the last few years so we were enjoying a few projects on that in the summer. Flash forward to a couple month ago, we got inspired to finish the car for the fall season. I replaced the RMS, and wanted to replace the seal on the IMSB flange, however being an early flange I couldn't find the small o ring replacement. So it was my brilliant idea to upgrade to the new flange and seal ($200 ouch). While I was installing the flange I managed to snap the stud off the bearing while using a cheap torque wrench. FML. So that's where we've stopped. We really wanted to defy the critics and run passed 300k on our original dual row, but now that doesn't seem possible. If there was a way to remove the bearing and press a new style stud on it, I'd totally opt for that option. Our original bearing still seems silky smooth with not a hint of roughness.

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Is the car high enough to remove the engine? I know you the tranny was removed from reading the thread, but I don't know how much clearance the engine needs. I'm considering my options for when I rebuild and would like some type of lift.

You snapped the center stud on the IMS?

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one of reasons we bought the QJ, with the SUV adapters there should be more than enough room with the bumper cover off. We are anticipating a couple of engine drops in our future.. Yes, snapped the centre stud. From what I have read the earlier ones were a potential weak spot and it wasn't uncommon for them to break.

How did the 3D printed tool for the RMS work out?

I used that same "JML" 3D printed RMS tool, worked great. Here's where I found the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235718 .

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That's the one. It was very easy use but the 4 holes didn't line up properly. Not sure if the tolerances were off slightly on the printer. I just slowly worked the seal in with 3 bolts at a time and then rotated the bolts to hit the 4th hole, and repeated until everything was set to the proper depth. Took all of 5 minutes to do.

Yeah, might be the printer, they can be touchy. What I didn't notice at first is that there is a slight notch in the 3d tool at one of the bolt holes. The notch is on the side of the tool that presses against the engine and it aligns with the roll pin in the end of crank shaft. Once I lined up the notch and pin the tool fit perfectly. Final RMS depth was an even 13mm (measured from end of the shaft, not engine case) all around.

Feel your pain on the broken center stud, had the same issue on my 2000. Working around the issue isn't too difficult. Push the remaining portion of the stud back into the IMS (retrieve it later with a magnet or needle nose pliers) and use the LN "ez-out tool" that comes with their IMS Pro Tool Kit (the kit is LN# 106-08.21). The ez-out tool is basically a bolt with an attached wire. Its sides are milled down so it can be pushed through the center of the IMSB and the wire is then used to maneuver it into place so the LN extractor tool can be threaded in. Make sure the extractor tool's pipe doesn't overlap with the IMSB (due to the IMS/IMSB not sitting centered in the engine case opening) since instead of sliding easily into the extractor pipe the IMSB will push against the lip of the pipe and not move. To get around this off-center/overlap issue you can try to shift the extractor tool pipe in the engine case opening so it aligns with the lip of the IMS or, if the IMS/IMSB are too far off center, you might have to loosen the 4 bolts in the bank 1 cam sprocket. Porschetech3 recommended this somewhere in a thread and it allows the IMS/IMSB to move to a centered position in the case opening. You'll have to check engine timing afterward if you loosen the sprocket bolts but you'll probably want to do so anyway after replacing the IMSB, even if just to sleep better at night. BTW, using most regular bearing pullers, especially a pilot bearing puller in conjunction with a slide hammer, isn't a great idea. Used here they will pull on the IMS and apply significant force against the timing chains, unlike how the LN extractor and ez-out tools work by only pushing against the lip of the IMS.

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Thanks for the info. It's good to also know that I'm not the only one! Unfortunately (but fortunately?) work on the 996 will be paused for a little while longer...

Damn, that's a more than worthy distraction. Enjoy!

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Wow! That is beautiful! Man, if I could afford one of those I wouldn't be hanging out on the 996 thread!

Did you snap off the stud on the new bearing install? I think I remember that it was like 15 in/lbs or something so light, needed an in/lb torque wrench.

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Thanks for the kind words. Owning a 996 was dream #1. Dream #2 was a 964...now just one last 911 to acquire and my collection will be complete! Probably not for many more years, but hey, it's good to dream.

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Snapped it during the new flange install, yes. We read the torque spec as 24 lbs, but I used my giant 1/2" drive click torque wrench instead of a 3/8 drive and it was so light that I had trouble feeling the click. I probably put in excess of 40-50lbs. If I was smarter I would have waited to get a proper torque wrench. Then the job would probably be done right now and we'd be on our way to 300,000km on the original IMSB.

Quick update..

Was that 964 for sale on bring a trailer?

Well...it's ALIVE! https://studio.youtube.com/video/Kt4zkJBwQSM/edit First start in 2 years was a little...scary. It was quite a rush to finally hear the engine fire up at all the work we had put in, even if it sounded incredibly rough (It's now running better than ever). There were so many times during this project that I questioned my decision to not just pay a professional, but I must say it has been extremely rewarding to know that my gf and I were able to do it ourselves. Thanks to everyone in the thread that helped along the way!! First bath in 2 years...

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Oh my, a White Corrado with headlight washers. Probably has the 9 liter washer fluid tank too. Four lugs, is it a G60? That's a VR grille. Canadian Recaro interior? I don't think E-codes were on Canadian cars either. Looks like some nice upgrades.

Can we get a pic of the 911 and the GF? Seems she deserves a little recognition here.

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Yes it was, good spot! I wasn't the auction winner, but BaT gave me the option to get in touch with the seller after the winner bailed. Things happen for a reason I guess! Good eyes, it's a (mostly) stock 93.5 Corrado VR6 (Canadian) with factory cloth Recaros, larger tank for the headlight washers. They are stock N/A headlights but I do have a set of Euros with the ultra rare leveling motors, wiring, and NOS dash switch waiting to go in as soon as I have time. I've owned the Corrado for 20 years, and I will be the last owner, without question! Haha, if you look closely at the first wash pic you can see parts of her hands. That's about all I'm allowed to show of her on the internet...