76 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHShopping advice
Reported or suspected cause
resonator delete (sounds awful
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
The main issue is the resonator delete (sounds awful.
Leading evidence: 'resonator delete (sounds awful' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'resonator delete (sounds awful' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 2nd gear upshift and downshifts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
That said I do intend to get my 996 inspected before making a decision!
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There are better sorted cars out there without all the garbage installed on this one.
Replace carfax has been reported, and lots of parts
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Carfax has been reported, and lots of parts were replaced.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Looks like the IMS bearing was replaced in 2014...
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
76 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
I�m shopping for a 996 and looking for some advice... I�m looking to spend $20k or less on a clean 996 manual coupe with less than 100k miles. I do not want a cab, but it seems like 80-90% of the cars i see for sale are cabs...
I�m really only looking at cars in my metro area, because I want to be able to physically look at the car and drive it. Unfortunately I live in a smaller metro with no other major cities nearby.
There is one near me for sale that I believe I can get a good deal on. Originally listed at $19k and recently reduced to $15k. Not many people are shopping for sports cars during winter in Salt Lake City...
https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6754398
The main issue is the resonator delete (sounds awful. Like a tractor through a megaphone), the wheels (awful), and the high mileage. I would want to return it closer to factory condition, but otherwise it checks the right boxes.
How picky should I be here? Should I jump on a lower priced 996 coupe for sale locally or just be patient? I check local listings every few months and I don�t see many for sale locally that I find tempting
it seems like the car has some definite issues you don't like. Wheels and muffler are relatively easy items to swap out, and I'd find some satisfaction picking out the perfect muffler and wheels combo. You'll hear it repeat over and over on this forum - buy the car with the best condition engine, and don't worry about the higher mileage if it has good service history and passes PPI. since this car had IMS done, you'll potentially save yourself from some serious heartache and money.
given you'll save $5k (probably more with some haggling) which seems sufficient to shop for a decent muffler and wheels, you probably just need determine if you're optimizing to get in a car this season. based on the poor inventory in your metro, this car seems like a good starting point to me. how did it drive?
there are definitely pros and cons... I only had a short test drive, but my first impression was that it drove fairly well. I didn�t have enough time to warm it up and it definitely felt underpowered for the level of noise it produced.
i may need to go back for a second look...
My advice - walk away from this car. Previous owner did some ricer racer stuff to this car and you will be spending time and money undoing some things. There are better sorted cars out there without all the garbage installed on this one. Just because it says the IMS bearing was replaced doesn't mean crap because it could be a cheap bearing replacement.
Keep in mind the IMS was done is 2005. That's 15 years ago and how many miles? At that time I believe there was a 4yr replacement period and there is 6yr with the newer ones. They are not lifetime parts. There is little data to show what the bearing looks like after it's been through that much time / miles so it could be just fine or needs to be done. I'll be posting a thread soon on what LN IMS looks like after 10 years in service once I have my car back from the shop.
You are hog-tying your options by insisting on local-only. Find a car, get a PPI, fly over and buy it, and drive it home. The universe of available cars just jumped by a whole bunch.
I am sure there are deals to be had but prices on these cars are up a bit lately. So it might take some patience to find the right one. If something doesn't seem right about a car or you're on the fence then the car isn't for you.
I have no idea what qualifies as ricer racer for that car. If the wheels are HRE you can sell those for significant gain. Muffler is easy to change out. Even if the wheels are lower quality aftermarket you can still pull a basically even swap for some stock 18" wheels.
If I was in the market for a 996 I would not hesitate to jump on that car if it was close and otherwise ticked the boxes for me. But then I do my own mechanical work and don't drink the Rennlist coolaid
There is no resonator on the exhaust, but there is one on the intake. Maybe they did a Fister or Gundo on the muffler? I hope they didn�t install some dumb muffler option meant for rice burners, lol.
I would drive a few cars, do your research, and then start looking for the one you want. I once flew 1/2 way across the country for a car and did not regret it.
Agreed on expanding your search distance. I purchased mine 400+ miles away because nothing else closer was what I was looking for. It was a fun little road trip there and back.
The one you're looking at doesn't seem too bad though. The IMS changed by Porsche dealership was likely an OEM bearing, so it'd be suggested to replace with an LN solution (or retro) if you did buy it. The wheels and mufflers as others have said are easily fixed.
I�m giving the car in the OP second look... I�m looking at cars available nationwide and most clean 6-speed 996 coupes are creeping into the $25k-30k range. Seems like prices are definitely on the rise and not too long ago i would have seen these same cars selling for $5k less.
$15k for flawed, but otherwise pretty decent 996 seems like a steal in comparison.
Should I be put off by the high mileage? In some ways I prefer a car with a couple nicks on it but I don�t want something that�s close to the end of its usable life
That depends largely on the condition of the engine - to answer this question, you really need an invasive PPI, including scoping the cylinders (preferably from the oil pan side vs spark plug hole) for bore scoring. An engine rebuilt will cost you more than the price of the car. Also, at that mileage - or just age for that matter - plan on most/all of the suspension bushing needing to be replaced if they are original. BTW, if you go with this car, I have a pair of stock 3.4 mufflers in the Phoenix area that I don't need. Best of luck in your search.
Update here... I think I�ll need to do two things. 1) expand search area, and 2) accept that I will probably have to spend over $20k.
I found some more promising examples... fingers crossed!
FWIW, I just sold my '99 Cab for $20,500, with 71K miles and excellent condition needing Nothing. If you hate cabs, you could always get a hardtop for what you find. You should be able to find a lot of car for $20K.
P.S. look at the car, yes, but don't be offended if the seller won't allow test drives (I didn't, I took him for a ride). I allow the buyer to drive the car after I have the money, and a BOS that states that they can return the car within 15 minutes for a refund if it's in the same condition as when it left the house.
thanks for the info!
i wouldn�t say I hate cabs, but I don�t want one living in Utah. I owned a boxster years ago when I lived in Virginia and loved it. It�s either scorching hot or freezing cold most of the year here, so not the best cab environment!
This one looks interesting... I would need to have it shipped to me in Utah. Buying a car from distance is a pain!!
Hey, check out this car I found on Cars.com:
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...ff=share_other
to the dealer, I hope! Look up Porsche mechanics in Columbus, IN, and have them do a PPI, check tire ages, then buy it, The car is too straight to not consider it.
sounds like they have had a lot of interest in the car. The earliest I can get a PPI is Friday and it might be gone by then. I�m thinking about taking a gamble. IMS has not been done to their knowledge and it may need a clutch soon...
think I should bite?
There�s also a tear in the leather seats. The car is the OP is looking like it may be a better deal...
probably easier/cheaper to replace the wheels and muffler on that car than replace the clutch and fix the leather on the second car
Finding cars that are priced to go quickly is how you get in trouble unless you can do the PPI yourself. That's how I ended up $25K deeper into a 964 than I intended.
yeah I�m definitely passing on the second car I posted.
i actually found a beautiful example for sale somewhat nearby for $21k. 64k miles, looks immaculate, but priced higher than I wanted to go... interesting interior!!
The reality of buying these cars is that you need to expect to spend money on them, so if a car with half the miles is selling for several thousand dollars more, most likely you'll save that much and more by not having to replace things that are worn out. Seat leather is a good example, and suspension components is another.
Sorry dude! Probably the most common advice given in this forum (and I'm sure many others) is; When buying a used big ticket item, get a PPI... I just can't understand why you'd come here asking for buying advice, getting advice and then turn around and fall for the oldest/most common sales pressure tactic in the book ("we're getting lots of interest in this car, you better buy it now before it's gone"...). In any case, I wish you the best of luck (seriously) and I hope you're not back here in a few months asking questions like... "does this sound like a sticky lifter to you guys"?
Just to add butter to the popcorn (and give another perspective to the OP), the Poll results showed that about 1/4 buyers got a PPI. Much more interesting is that almost 60% bought without a PPI, so while we preach about doing the right thing, we don't always follow our own advice, lol.
i do love finding a deal though!
i took a gamble and bought one of the cheapest Audi TTs for sale locally a while ago. Dinged and scratched exterior (I don�t care), high miles, but it�s been great fun to own and hasn�t cost much to keep it going. Maybe a fluke... but I put minimal miles on my toy cars
i did a
post
purchase inspection and the mechanic couldn�t find anything wrong with it. The boxster I owned and got a PPI on turned into a bit of a money pit though...
Try Morris Brothers Motorsports in Murray, I have talked to them about engine work on my C4S. They seem very knowledgeable and spent a fair amount of time on the phone answering all my questions. I am sure they could do a decent PPI.
the sad part is that I know these sales tricks and I fall for them anyway!!
Pray for me.
the good news is that I found what appears to be a genuinely well sorted car with 64k miles listed at $21k. Big stack of service records to go with it. I�ll keep you guys updated so keep the popcorn popping!
That last car that is more than you wanted to spend looks like a great deal to me. Get it inspected. $1k more than your original budget for no, or very issues will save you thousands in the long run. Good luck. Be sure to post pics 😎
Coming at it from another angle is the subject of COH for surprises. Some might be good with an extra $5,000 in the mattress, and others might want $25,000 in order to feel comfortable. If paying an extra $1,000 is financial, rather than just a target, then maybe this purchase should be re-thought?
One more perspective for a PPI.... Before finding my 996 I looked at a Cayman. I worked out a PPI with a local Indy where if he found anything in the oil, stop and go no further. That car had lots of shiny metal particulate in the oil, meaning there was a strong indicator that the IMS was on its way out. I passed on the car and was out a couple of hundred dollars. But, it saved me from an engine replacement.
Get the PPI and ask the shop to drain the oil first. If anything is in the oil or the filter then pay for the oil change and move on. If oil looks good from there then proceed with the rest of the PPI. At the age of these cars you are probably looking at spending a couple of grand after purchase to get the car to good running order. Things such as tires that have lots of tread, but are 10 or more years old need replacing. The car may need pads and rotors. Original suspension will have old and dry bushings. It should at least get all of the fluids changed (oil, diff, antifreeze, power steering). All that cost money to DIY and even more money to have a shop do the work.
An extra $1k isn�t a huge deal, more of a target I wanted to stay below. I�m also trying to budget for rebuilding my garage and finishing my basement without going broke
i previously owned a boxster and 944, so I�m fully aware that these cars can come with a lot of surprise expenses. I�m also useless at DIY projects... but maybe that will change now that I have a garage. The $21k car will likely be the cheapest in the long run. It was traded in at a Porsche dealership, has had IMS bearing replaced and comes with a stack of service records
Get the PPI! If they can do it in a progressive fashion starting with drain oil/inspect - If ng, stop charge only for oil change... if good > drop sump plate inspect - if good > scope cylinders from sump > etc... This seems like a reasonable way to go without charging you for a bunch of time you don't need if they find crap in the oil straight away. Of course there is a chance the oil is fresh so you may get stuck for more $ regardless... Good luck, hopefully you've found "The one"
the salesman tells me the car was already thoroughly inspected by a Porsche certified technician (they are a Porsche dealer) and that if i paid for a PPI it would be the same technician repeating the same inspection again.
when they the car in they
put a new set of tires on it, replaced the passenger rear strut and a new battery. Also did an oil change and a brake fluid flush.
i think I have to drive out to Colorado this weekend!
I would get a PPI from somewhere else than the selling dealer!
Get a proper one like described above.
Also, the "if $1000 more is too much financially" comment is incorrect.
If "$20K more is too much financially" is more like it.
If you can't swing another $20-25K,(engine rebuild cost) then you should do an invasive PPI.
If that's not a big deal, go ahead and take a chance.
Going against the grain here. Skip the PPI. If you notice engine knocking, walk away. Also check 2nd gear upshift and downshifts. If smooth, I�d jump on it for that price and take the risk. Know full well going into it things like alternator, starter, AOS, and other bolt-on�s will need to be replaced at some point. If you plan to DIY, then it can be an economical purchase. I say this because I bought a 99c2 a year ago with 75k. I�ve replaced many bolt ons, myself, that just needed to be done after 20yrs. I probably have $1500 parts into it. But saved over $5000 by DIY (est.) It now has 91k on it and I have zero regrets. That said, she may blow tomorrow!
"
That said, she may blow tomorrow!"
^^^ That pretty much says it all...
Ironic that it comes from a guy who says forego the PPI. If you cant afford to have that happen, spend the $1000 and get the PPI (NO - Not from the guy the seller recommends...a neutral 3rd party/expert who has no skin in the game).
Cmon man. Do you guarantee a PPI will protect a buyer from catastrophic failure? It�s a $20k 20yr old car. Beware of engine knock and tranny issues and be done with it. Stuffs gonna break. That�s part of the entry fee. If you�re on a budget and cannot DIY, stay away from 20yr old cars. Otherwise, take advantage of the low entry point and enjoy your 911 journey. Says the guy who�s 911 will blow tomorrow...Murphy�s Law.
There are no guarantees on anything. You've never heard of anyone putting heavy oil in an engine so it doesn't tick ? There are plenty of unscrupulous sellers out there, a thorough PPI helps to mitigate potential folly...It's pretty much all been said by now - it seems like Leroy has already made his mind up to buy the car, so good luck with 'er! Let us know how it goes
I�ve been thinking all day and this particularly car might not be the one... I will never love that interior color and I hate the 4 spoke steering wheel. I should probably be a little more patient...
I wish everyone would lay off the �you probably can�t afford it� schtick. It�s a bit stale. Let�s be honest... 95% of us are here because this is the cheapest, best bang for your buck 911. Let�s stop being silly. This is not a wealthy person�s car. I�m not rich but I certainly can afford this. So please cut that out because it�s not helpful
*Pretty sure I found it. Looks like it got rear ended back in 2016. If you dont care about diminished value it may still be a candidate
Not sure how 996 savvy you are. Dude, the 99 with the FULL Boxster red interior is worth more than $21K. Porsche maintained, stack of receipts, possible LSD (get a pic of the option sticker under hood), dual row IMS, did I mention full leather interior and new tires??!!. Hell, if you dont want it please give me the details. I'll drive it around for a couple thousand miles and put it up for sale on Bring a Trailer. This car with 64k miles would sell for a minimum of $25k alllllllll day long. BUY THAT CAR!
I bought mine in March just before the COVID hit the fan. My budget was $20-$25K. It seems like there is less supply and more demand now so you might have a harder search (there was a gorgeous blue targa for sale by a rennlister in SLC when I was looking). When I was looking, there were quite a few choices and even then a clean 996 with less than 100K miles below $20k was a tall order.
I would say dealerships are out of the question. If a dealership is selling a "clean" 996 with under 100K miles for under $20K, it's not actually clean. There's a reason.
I had the same issue with cabs. I'm not a convertible guy and a lot of the ads were for cabs. Finding a coupe that wasn't black or silver with the mileage I wanted eliminated 90% of the ads.
For the PPI, it all depends on your risk tolerance. I'm pro-PPI and I got one at an indy Porsche specialist (don't use a dealer and don't buy from one who won't let you get one and won't guarantee the car). They drained the oil and removed the filter but did not do a borescope or drop the sump. The PO had the IMSB replaced ~3 years ago. Since there was no tailpipe soot or ticking & the car had spent its life in warm weather I wasn't that concerned about bore scoring. I asked the guy who did my PPI (who daily drives a 996) if he thought bore scoring was a worry with this car, he said no. There was a car or two I looked at where I would have insisted on a more invasive PPI because of the history of the car or I just didn't f***ing trust the seller. I don't know how easy it is to get a PPI where they drop the sump and do a borescope from below. Some sellers may not allow it and some shops (even Porsche specialists) don't think it's necessary. A lot of people on RL recommend one but when you press them on what they did themselves they get defensive or scurry away. My approach was to buy a reasonably maintained car and get a reasonable PPI.
no comment on the location... it�s in Colorado but that�s the wrong dealership hehe. Your enthusiasm is contagious!! I appreciate the positivity. We�ll see what happens this weekend
update: you might have typed the wrong dealership, but you were looking at the right car. It was indeed in an accident... not sure if that should rule it out or not
Depends on how well documented the repair was.
For example, my car had the right rear fender resprayed because my wife put her mountain bike against the garage door, and it fell on my car. I had pictures taken before and after and documented everything for the next guy. Carfax probably won�t show anything.
But that differs from my wife�s car. Her car suffered from a $21,000 repair and was in a collision. Carfax has been reported, and lots of parts were replaced. The car will never be the same.
So I think it depends.
A P-car with a paper trail is worth a fair bit more in my experience and opinion. It seems that most first timers (including myself 6 years ago) don�t fully respect and appreciate this aspect. Pay now or pay later....
no problem. I can get a little defensive on this forum because it seems like there are a lot of negative Nancies on here telling everyone what not to do and what car you shouldn�t buy because you probably can�t afford it or don�t know enough about Porsches
I freely admit I�m not mechanically inclined and know next to nothing about cars in general, other than the fact that I like them and I like driving them. Specifically, I�ve loved Porsche cars ever since my grandfather showed me his 914 when I was a kid.
I had a 944 that was purchased without a PPI. I knew almost nothing about the cars history. Cost quite a bit over the years I owned it.
I also had a boxster that I bought after a thorough PPI at a Porsche specialist. It also cost quite a bit over the years.
I know everyone preaches PPI, but my limited experience tells me that if you keep a Porsche for years and drive it often, it will cost money either way. A PPI tells you what is wrong with the car at a given point in time, but doesn�t tell you much about what will break a year from now. That said I do intend to get my 996 inspected before making a decision!
For some reason I also own three cars: a VW Touareg, jeep Cherokee, and an Audi TT. If my 996 isn�t working and needs some time out, the jeep will definitely get me around town
Hey there Leeroy! I think it may be helpful to you if I share my recent 996 purchase story. Last month for $17,000, I purchased my 6 speed 2004 C2 Coup� with 65,000 miles in Seal Gray on black with a 6 month old LN engineering IMSB and a brand new transaxle from Porsche 14k miles ago in November of 2014. On forums the prices people think their cars are worth tend to be inflated. On Facebook groups they will tend to be deflated. Reality sits somewhere in between. I found my car locally, but I was searching all over the Western half of the United States when I was looking at 996s. The most important thing is to get a PPI done by a professional shop that specializes in Porsches. I have been racing since I was 7 years old and I know my way around a car. Even so, twice I thought a 996 was in good condition only to find out after I had my shop perform a PPI that they both needed over $5,000 in critical repairs. I cannot stress the importance of having a Porsche specific mechanic do your PPI enough. The right deal is out there for you, just be patient. If it takes you a couple of months to find the perfect car, so be it. When you do you will be happy that you waited!
Well I took the plunge and bought a 2001 seal gray 996 C2 coupe with 117k miles.
I�m buying it sight unseen and having it shipped to my door for $15k. Hard to beat the price but please pray for me anyway. I did have it inspected, but unfortunately not by a Porsche specialist. It was for sale in a small town without any Porsche specialists nearby. I will have another inspection after the car gets delivered at a local specialist.
It seems mechanically solid but there are some cosmetic issues that need to be sorted out and I have many improvements in mind. It should be a fun car to tinker with and tastefully update... I know im taking a gamble but I�m buying it so cheap that I�m comfortable with it. I�m looking forward to having a bit of a project!
I�ll post pics and an update once it�s delivered
Congratulations!! If it's like the cars the rest of us have bought, you'll walk the same path. And then it will be yours! Good luck, have fun. Don't drive too fast, the police are not scared of Covid anymore...
You've likely seen this, but here's a link to a recent thread with the millions of first things to do:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...new-996-a.html
I bought mine from a Ford dealer in NJ without any inspection or test drive. I went into this expecting failures and it didn�t fail to deliver, died half an hour from the dealer with a failed alternator. Still love the car and have been working through the usual part replacements. Since the alternator replacement which I did myself, it�s been reliable. Happy with my purchase. 2003 cab tip.
I�m expecting a similar experience.
I�m still waiting for the dealer to arrange transport. starting to get a little impatient!
I�m excited to take the car straight to a local specialist to see what it needs. Bracing for the inevitable check I�ll be writing them
i only paid $14k so I can�t complain.... yet!!
Indiana to Salt Lake City. I�m considering it but that would be putting a lot of faith in the car! It�s a pretty long drive that I wouldn�t feel great about in any 20 year old car, especially with the prospect of winter weather
I'd have to agree with you; especially if from a dealer that has zero knowledge of the car. Tough call, but getting it delivered eliminates a mid-winter crisis.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
