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YOUR RESEARCHRequest for Input on 996 Purchase
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Use /pors...e3231bde87.htm
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Leading evidence: 'Use /pors...e3231bde87.htm' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'better bargain' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ims / rms, bore scope, etc' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Rationally, the C2 is probably the better bargain but buying a porsche isn't always driven by reason.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is it normal to have them check the IMS / RMS, bore scope, etc?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Of course, I understand that I need to test drive both of these cars to make an accurate assessment of which one I like better, but a sanity check on each vehicle doesn't hurt before digging deeper.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Of course, I understand that I need to test drive both of these cars to make an accurate assessment of which one I like better, but a sanity check on each vehicle doesn't hurt before digging deeper.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Of course, I understand that I need to test drive both of these cars to make an accurate assessment of which one I like better, but a sanity check on each vehicle doesn't hurt before digging deeper.
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Suggestion
If you are worried about bore scoring specifically there are some symptoms you can be on the lookout for during your test drives that will tell you if the car is hurting already.
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Hey guys - first time posting here and potentially first time buying a 911. I'm a big fan of the value people seem to get out of the 996 given its (initial) cost.
Would appreciate your input on this
2000 C2
and
2002 C4S
that I'm looking at. Of course, I understand that I need to test drive both of these cars to make an accurate assessment of which one I like better, but a sanity check on each vehicle doesn't hurt before digging deeper.
In my opinion, the pros on the C2 are price, mileage, extensive service records, private seller who's a Porsche enthusiast, full leather interior and other pretty good options. Cons in my mind are no major preventive maintenance for the alphabet soup issues, not big fan of the owner powder coating the original wheels, and I'm unsure about the exhaust bypass (droning etc.).
Pros of the C4S are the mileage, price for C4S, full leather interior and other options (though I haven't received a picture of the options sticker yet) and I generally just like the way it looks. Cons are spotty service records and no big preventative maintenance, seats look a little worn and it will be more of a process to get the car to California.
Let me know what you think and thanks in advance for any responses.
Looks like you found two good ones! I dig the Zenith Blue C2, but the Silver C4S is really popping in those pictures and has the turbo bumpers and skirts whereas the Zenith Blue C2 has the basic bumpers/no skirts. The Zenith Blue C2 is older and has the smaller 3.4L/300hp engine but is $6K cheaper and closer, whereas the Silver C4S is newer, has the larger 3.6L/320hp engine but is 2-300 lbs heavier due to the 4wheel drive system (which system only delivers about 15% to the front wheels), and is farther away. Both have low mileage relative to their age, but neither has extensive maintenance or service records, however, the Silver is an "S" model which carries a premium over a base C2 model. If Memory serves me correctly, they both have 5 chain engines. Tough decision, I say buy them both! (But if you can't buy them both, I say go with the Zenith Blue C2 which is truer to the original design, lighter/better handling, cheaper and closer to you, you can either paint the blacked out wheels to your preferred color, or put different wheels on the car, its been known to happen).
Have a thorough PPI done from a reputable indy mechanic regardless of whatever you get. These cars are relatively cheap to get into but that can easily change if you don't do your due diligence. I like the blue one out of those.
+1
...but I'm biased. I've always liked the turbo-look better. Thus, it's what I drive. Rationally, the C2 is probably the better bargain but buying a porsche isn't always driven by reason.
Prices look fair for history on both
No matter what get as much history as you can, call a Porsche with complete VIN, see if they can help.
By all means, do a PPI
Good Luck
David
Agreed on the looks. Definitely get some seat time in both styles to compare tho. I checked out a turbo after driving my C2 for a while and the steering feel when pushing it is significantly different with AWD - something I wasn't a fan of. I did drive a RWD converted turbo recently and it was just as good as I would expect.
Edit: made this comment and then read the next post
- might be worth checking this one out
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1185269
Thanks everyone for the responses - really appreciate it!
A couple of additional questions, does anyone's opinion of either car change if I plan to track it? Not extensively, but I would like to attend some DE and HPDE events as I get better. Also want to note that this won't be my DD.
Secondly, how extensive of a PPI should I get done on both cars? Is it normal to have them check the IMS / RMS, bore scope, etc?
Regardless of which car you pick, get an invasive bore scoping as part of the PPI. Doesn't matter if car drives great, sounds great, never burns oil, whatever. Too many recent posts of new buyers finding out the hard way after doing first oil change. The added cost is peanuts. Please take my advice.
im not saying out of state cars are bad, but CA law requires the seller to provide smog cert with sale. So if you buy a CA car from independent dealer and it doesn�t pass, dealer is responsible, if you buy out of state then bring to CA, it�s on you. With like 80% of Porsche�s coming to CA you can just avoid this potential headache with some patience.
2000 and up cars are obd2 scans only. If your monitors are set with no check engine light and the car is unmodified you are good. These are all 50 state federally certified cars. 1999's can fail tailpipe tests, but it's not very common. The non california car is" bad for smog" are cars from near the cutoff years. 1976 through the 80's. Thats what makes the pre smog cars much more valuable than early smog cars. For a 996 that doesn't have mods you are not taking much risk. Even less to probably none if you have a ppi done.
So ya, what you said... except also what I said? If the car is purchased out of state and doesn�t pass smog, it�s buyers responsibility...
these cars shouldn�t have a problem passing smog, but if they do I�d rather not have to pay for it... literally all I was saying.
I don't want to make this post about budget, "smart money", or any of that nonsense. But both of these questions really come back to your personal budget and what your expectations are regarding how expensive a 996 will be.
1) Tracking means money for usual consumables like tires and brakes, and initially the 996 needs a few minor track mods to save it from itself and the oil starvation issue. (Search for info on the "deep sump kit.") This is a whole other barrel of apples and I'll leave it at this for now. My "firing from the hip" answer is I'd get the Carrera for weight and RWD, but I'm inviting my *** to get thoroughly chewed by C4S guys that go to the track, so take this advice with many grains of salt. I'm no Hurley Haywood.
2) A "normal" PPI is not invasive, so any additional test or inspection you ask for is going to add to the cost. What would happen if you plunked down say $1200 to get a super-duper invasive PPI and they come back and say "yep, she's good and borked." ? Are you fine with walking away from the $1200 and the car and start all over with a fresh car? This is an extreme example... and I definitely recommend you have the car looked at if you don't know what you're looking at yourself, but realize that no PPI comes with a crystal ball. If you are worried about bore scoring specifically there are some symptoms you can be on the lookout for during your test drives that will tell you if the car is hurting already. No PPI will be able to inspect the IMSB.
For the time being, here's a nice educational rabbit hole for you to fall down, these are both the first videos from multi-part series
Spotlight on Bore Scoring:
You Tube
Spotlight on IMS & IMSB:
You Tube
I had an email exchange with the guy selling the blue one. He bought it 18 months ago from a dealer so I don't know how much he really has for service records. I didn't trust the guy very much. Some things he told me:
-Zenith blue was a "special" color
-The PPI he got was so great that it even showed the over-revs!
-I could get a PPI if I wanted but It would be a waste of money because I could just look at the one he got when he bought it
I was set to go see it last weekend but I ended up completing a purchase on another one the Tuesday before. Maybe I would have gotten a different vibe from the guy in person. Not sure. Oh, for the service records, I just remembered he did have the dealer stamps in the manual so that was good.
On the other hand, if the car is good and you get a decent PPI, maybe you don't need to trust the seller.
Thanks, ssherman68. That's good to know. I'm scheduled to take a look at it this Saturday, so I'll report back.
Also bumping for this one:
https://www.smithvolvo.com/used/Pors...e3231bde87.htm
Heard good things about Smith Volvo on here and it looks like they did the IMS and RMS. One accident from the previous owner backing into something. Any input on the price, etc?
Cheers.
I would go with the C4S what you would spend on the wheels and exhaust can put towards maintenance. I happen to think that the C4S will hold more value than the C2 will on the long run.
