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YOUR RESEARCHNeed help polishing
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Use boxster
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Read evidence and context
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Wifey was happy that I used her Boxster to practice on as well
Leading evidence: 'Use boxster' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check with the experts in the concours section' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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BTW, this was the first time I ever used a RO polisher.
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Suggestion
At this point you might want to check with the experts in the Concours section.
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Suggestion
If you were making a book shelf out of oak, if you did the initial sanding using 100 grit paper and then jumped to a 200 grit sand paper, would you expect the wood surface to be very smooth?
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If I hadn't read for a few hours in the concourse forum, I would have made some big mistakes in using a clay bar, and in making a decision to re-use a pad that flew off the porter cable random orbital machine, and in how much compound and polish to use, and in masking with tape, and covering stuff up, and in polishing black trim with the machine by accident....
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If I hadn't read for a few hours in the concourse forum, I would have made some big mistakes in using a clay bar, and in making a decision to re-use a pad that flew off the porter cable random orbital machine, and in how much compound and polish to use, and in masking with tape, and covering stuff up, and in polishing black trim with the machine by accident....
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Suggestion
Do a search for Porter Cable Porsche in YouTube, and you'll find some guys with the latest polishes showing the basic techniques for using a PC machine.
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I couldn't stand the little scratches in my hood any longer, so...
First I used Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. It seemed to do a great job, the original scratches were completely lost in the swirls.
Then I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I've applied two coats and can't seem to buff out the swirls from the rubbing compound.
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any help.
TTJunkie,
If you were making a book shelf out of oak, if you did the initial sanding using 100 grit paper and then jumped to a 200 grit sand paper, would you expect the wood surface to be very smooth? You would need to follow that up with 400 grip paper and then maybe 800 grit paper. Only then would the surface be smooth enough to finish it with a protective coat or sealer of your choice.
The same "step down" process needs to be done when polishing auto paint. The key is that initially, you try to use the LEAST abrasive polish to get the scratches out. If the scratches are bad, you may need a relatively abrasive abrasive polish to get them out.
However, the more abrasive (larger grit particles) polish that use, the more steps following that initial polish will be required to get a smooth, swirl free surface. Each successive polish will leave scratches in the paint, but those scratches will be smaller than the scratches that polish removed. You keep working your way down (step-by-step) through less abrasive polishes and eventually to a nonabrasive polish/cleaner. Only then will the paint be ready for the protective coats.
Here is a link to a post where I documented my step-by-step process to remove the swirl marks shortly after I got my car.
Paint Polishing & Protecting Process
I hope this helps.
NO, you will want to use a LESS abrasive polish as your next step. A more abrasive polish will only leave more of the larger scratches in the clear coat and could wear through the clear coat. REMEMBER that Porsche paint is soft, so you want to take the LEAST aggressive route possible to eliminate the swirl marks.
Some of the new polishes like 3M finesse-It actually have properties that allow the abrasive particles to diminish as you go through the polishing procedure, which leaves fewer and smaller scratches to be removed in the next step.
I am assuming you are using a random orbit polisher. If you are not, invest $100 or so and get one. It will make the job go quicker and you will get a more consistent result than hand polishing.
Along with Tim's write up, spend a little time reading here at the Autopia site:
http://www.autopia.org/publish/categ...-and-Car-Care/
I learned a lot from reading their material (and ultimately bought my supplies from them). I've gotten excellent results!
Tim's posts are spot on.
Another thing to consider is what media are you using to polish the car if you're not using a buffer and foam pads?
Terry cloth towels are abrasive enough to where if you continue to use them for all of your polishing you'll do nothing but continue to scratch the surface just from the towel. Microfiber or foam are your friends for lighter polishing.
The micro fiber pad is helping, but it's still slow. Maybe three more applications of polish with "vigorous" random orbital buffing should do it. Wish me luck!
At this point you might want to check with the experts in the Concours section. I have had great advice from them. Either a random orbital or the new Flex with the correct polish might be in order. I did my first RO polish last year, and was really happy with the results. Good luck!
Porter cable, and a set of pads from someone like Autopia
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ultim...hing-pads.html
Then work through polish grades and pads as Tim mentioned - until you get to the final mirror-like finish.
Unquestionably yes, the RO is worth it. I got my car used and the PO took crappy care of the paint. There were a ton of swirl marks on it and a few deep scratches.
Here is are a few pics under the fluorescent lights after 6 hours of polishing, using 4 different polishing products. Note the reflection of my house and the high, thin clouds off the hood of my car in the last pic.
There is NO WAY you could get these results by hand and certainly not in one day. BTW, this was the first time I ever used a RO polisher.
Yes. Go to Autopia and read some of the tutorials, get yourself a good set of products and pads and some microfiber towels and you'll be amazed with the outcome.
Once you start using an Orbital (Porter cable, flex, G110) you'll realize you really have to TRY to screw up the paint to really do any harm.
Same experience as Tim - previous owner had not looked after the paint well.
After wash, dry, clay and the a few hours with a Porter Cable polisher and pads, I had a result which exceeded my expectations.
Local detailer wanted $150 to even break out a polisher, so I figure I get the cost of the pads and Porter Cable recovered in the first two uses.
Wifey was happy that I used her Boxster to practice on as well
Since using the PC, I've moved away from any form of weekly waxing, and now do a PC polish and a last step sealant product, just twice a year.
So I have the look I want, and I have more spare time to enjoy the car.
Definitely read everything you can in the Concourse forum here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/concours-and-car-care-86/
People who have never used a machine to polish their car usually have a tendency to do the wrong things. It's not as intuitive as you might think.
If I hadn't read for a few hours in the concourse forum, I would have made some big mistakes in using a clay bar, and in making a decision to re-use a pad that flew off the porter cable random orbital machine, and in how much compound and polish to use, and in masking with tape, and covering stuff up, and in polishing black trim with the machine by accident.... There are plenty of ways to go wrong, and I must confess I was very ignorant about the proper techniques initially. But I learned by reading and watching YouTube Videos.
Do a search for Porter Cable Porsche in YouTube, and you'll find some guys with the latest polishes showing the basic techniques for using a PC machine.
PC machine is definitely the way to go, or there is also some "Flex" machine that is probably even better.
The best thing about using a PC machine is that you are quite unlikely to damage your car because it doesn't heat up the pad or the paint. But if you are thinking you can do a better job by hand "wax on wax off" forget it - you'll probably never get as good of a shine by hand as you could with a PC machine.
I have seen the local dealers "detail" cars, and all they do is put MORE swirls in the paint - same goes for most of the local detailers in my home city here - they do not have a clue how to polish a car. Now that I know how to properly polish a car with the PC machine, I have checked out most of the local pro detailers to see how their customers cars are looking when they are finished, and I couldn't believe it - they all still have tons of spiderweb swirls! They just don't know how to get rid of them. But I do, and so will you if you do some research from the Concourse forum. The main point I want to make is that 90% of the regular guys you talk to do not know that they don't know how to polish a car properly. Come at it with that knowledge and you will eventually get over all the mystique, and you'll soon be able to get a great polish on your car with a PC machine, some pads, and polishes.
I wish I had learned this stuff 20 years ago - to think that I used to slap on some wax and armor all on my old BMW's and think I was doing the best for my car back then - that was pretty naive.
Good luck - I hope I made enough of a point to get you reading more about doing the job right.
Yeah, those guys are the ones that created the swirl marks on the car in the first place. I'm pretty sure the reason for swirl marks is that these detailers are too lazy to clean their pads properly once they use them. The wax or other stuff dries on the pads, and then they use the pad on your car, which is like using a pad with embedded dirt in it. I've always done my own polishing, and I never take any of my cars to a car wash -- EVER.
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