Inherited 996 Cab decisions...

I inherited a 996 cab and I can't decide what direction to go with the car. I already have a 991.2 Targa GTS and having two 911s seems odd to begin with. I daily drive my Targa most days and also do track events every 2-3 months in it. My step-dad, who I inherited this from, was pushing me to get a dedicated track car over the last year. So, one part of me wants to put a full cage in it, suspension, strip it, etc and make it a dedicated track car. I cant find where anyone else has taken this path with a 996 cab, but at the same time I cant see much difference than doing this to a boxster. However, this is about a 30k process and I have not driven it on the track, so I am hesitant to start down this road. The car honestly, is more fun on the street than my Targa since it is a manual and part of me wants to just mod it to a unique road car. The PDK in my Targa is my preferred transmission for the track as well. If I could pull off a roll bar and speedster humps simultaneously that would be pretty cool too if I left it as a street car. I really cant decide what to do with it. I think the first step is to get a roll bar. I really want some added protection as 7 years ago, my sister died in a Miata, when it rolled on an interstate. I have a hard time driving around in a Cab for this reason. So... If you want to chime in with your thoughts that would be great. Also, if you have an unused rollbar that will fit a 996 cab I would be interested. It looks like the Tequipment and Das Sport seem to be the sturdiest and safest designs.

Check the Marketplace, they come up often.

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Yes I have checked. Sometimes people may have things they have not listed though.

Wow! Nice inheritance Very sad about your sister sorry for your loss. Understandable why you'd want extra rollover protection. I can't help you with the rollbar but will keep it in mind (in case I hear of/see something...) - Good luck

OP: No faith in the built in roll bars that are "supposed" to pop up in a crash? I can see why you'd want to put in a full roll bar cage if you were going to track the car but then again I don't see why you've want to track a cab (which at least theoretically would not have the same body/frame rigidity as a non-cab) and would also carry unnecessary weight (unless you're planning to remove the soft top and everything that is connected w/it to reduce weight for track use. On the other hand, if you are just using the cab for ordinary road use (even at speed), I don't see why you've bother w/a full roll bar, except to make you "feel" safer which is of course a choice you are free to make and pay for. However, I've owned/driven a Toyota MR2 Spyder for over 15 years and have never even come close to flipping the car in very spirited backroad driving and, although I've only owned it a few months, I've not felt "at risk" yet in my 2000 C4 Cab either. Of course, there's always the possibility of the car becoming involved in an accident that would cause the car to flip but, if I were worried about that, I would have never bought the MR2 or C4 Cab in the 1st place. You'll just have to decide what "risk" you are willing to accept for yourself.

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Full convertibles stress me out... I dont trust the pop ups to save my life either. IF I turned it into a full track car yes, I would remove ALL convertible top pieces, motors, etc. and put them on rennlist and ebay. I am trying to fit a car that I would never buy due to it being a full convertible into my life. I have yet to find the right solution.

I agree with your logic, it doesn�t matter how much you mod the 996 (within reason), you�re 991 will be a better track weapon. I feel like you�d constantly be chasing the 991�s performance on track and ROI for each mod in doing so would never have you level up. If you enjoy driving the car and wanna keep the miles off you�re targa, thank keep it and enjoy it as a great car on the road. Otherwise, shift it on and use the $$ for upgrades on the 991. My proverbial $.02

Sell the cab and buy one more suited to making it a track car.

Sell it....it is not for you...use the proceeds towards something you would track. Sorry for your loss.

The hell with everyone else. Track the hell out of that CAB! There is a good argument on every side of this fence. But i don't agree with them. People say Cabs suck as track cars yet we have dedicated race classes for the Boxster and Mazda Miata? I purchased my C4S cab over a year ago. I do regret it only due to the fact that i am not a cab guy. It was an impulse. I have a hardtop and it rarely comes off. It is what it is at this point. When i found mine it was really really clean with reasonably low mileage. I thought i would keep it original in case the 996 market ever changed. 6 months later i realized i was a moron and a 996 would never go up like its older brothers. Thats when i decided to make the car better. One of the local PCA guys who is also in some part a chair in the HPDE told me to track it and i would love it. Thats when i decided to get it ready. first step was the entire suspension, then wheels and tires, then engine add ons, tons and tons of maintenance and fluids. Then the time came to hit the next Autocross. Fun it was but eh..... Then i signed up for HPDE at Roebling Road. That was the most fun you can have with your cloths on. My instructor was surprised at how well the car was handling and how much i was progressing. Half way thru the first day my instructor moved me up to the next run group. I found my favorite thing to do was play "follow the leader" with a car i knew i shouldn't be attempting to keep up with. The handling capability was unreal. I have now purchased a set of track day only wheels with Nitto NT01's just for track days. My head is spinning with thoughts of adding a roll cage to the back section with seats and harnesses. I could see if someones intention was to go out and do some pro level racing. But for people who are just doing HPDE a cab is just fine. If your gonna go nuts with it, loose the soft top and all the parts and just get a hardtop for it. I say you should just to shut up the people who claim they suck as track cars. Prove it with lap times. Make it happen. Make it a dedicated thread. You've got one subscriber already!!

Mbren....you don't run a roll bar at all? I was under the impression they were required for HDPE.

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I ran with PCA. They are perfectly fine with the factory pop ups. Before i ran with them i was searching the forums and found every answer but the truth. From what i have seen with most groups are factory pop ups are acceptable. Cars without them like miatas and the like will require an added roll bar. They also have some added rules like if you go top down they require arm restraints. I see no reason to go top down. I know the top adds no added protection but it seems stupid to me. I hear some regions and groups vary their rules a bit. Only requirement they had for us was a SA2010 or SA2015 Helmet and a tech inspection (very basic - brakes, tires, suspension tight and recent brake flush) of the car to make sure it was safe. Here is what almost every club site i read states.... Open Cars: Any make of car delivered with factory installed roll over protection meets the minimum standards for Porsche Club of America Driver Education events. In these cars the soft-top must be in the up position or the hard top installed. If the top is in the down position, an SFI and/or FIA approved arm restraint system* must be used. If a car does not have factory installed roll over protection, a roll bar or roll cage must be installed, which meets the "broomstick" rule (the driver's helmeted head is below a bar placed on top of the roll bar and windshield). Design, installation and materials of roll bars or cages and their installation must meet PCA Club Racing specifications, contained in Appendix A-Roll Cage Specifications of the PCA Club Racing Rules. All targa tops must be installed unless there is addition roll over protection. All sunroofs must be in the closed position. The windshield alone is not considered to be factory roll over protection. If you have any questions about whether or not your convertible has factory installed roll over protection that complies with the Rules, email us before you register.

Brought it home tonight from my mom�s. It feels right having it here. I left my truck at my office to make room for now. My first to do will have to be a stereo with CarPlay. There are no radio stations I like in the area and my old CDs will only cut it so long. It looks like I can get a MOST fiber to rca adapter and do a double din system with carplay. Then I will start looking for the right roll bar solution. It would be nice to remove all the convertible top parts fully. Then, get a custom welded roll bar that would allow for some speedster humps. I am not sure that is possible, but we shall see. Later, if I wanted, I could have a front section added. I am not sure if that will be the case, but time will tell. I think I am just going to let it go where it wants to go and what feels right. It means a lot to have this car here with me. I may not know where the project will take its self, but I know it feels right having it here.

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This is actually the PCA stance but individual tracks have different requirements. So for example I could run my cab at CMP and NCCAR but not at VIR. I still run with my hardtop although not required just because of the illusion of additional safety. As for the OP, I've tracked my cab quite a bit. And yes you are correct, if you are looking to race then a cab is probably not the best choice. But for DE events the additional weight is probably not going to be the determining factor in how you perform on the track. I've never felt that my car was inadequate for tracking although once I started building my skills I did also consider the rollbar and harnesses. When I get more serious I'll probably purchase a track-only vehicle but for now if I'm just having fun at a DE then my car is able to handle the task without a problem.

O man, that is sharp looking, looks like its in decent shape. I would have a hard time letting it go but then again no sense in keeping it around if you aren't going to use it. I inherited my dad's 500 SL when he died 7 years ago, ended up keeping it for a few years but it sat 95% of the time. I ended up selling it to help move and start my life with my wife. Some days I have regrets about selling it but I would rather someone enjoy it.

Keep it if you have the means, its absolutely gorgeous!

Went ahead and jumped into it! Got the stereo ordered from CAI. I also shed 80lbs. Swapped the stock drivers seat for my Sparco race seat that is on 996 sliders already. Removed rear seats and seat belts plus the spare tire. I am going to keep my eyes out for a used roll bar on ebay and the market place. Then, I can test it out on the track around February. Again, not sure where this is going to end up. I do know he was planning to do the stereo head unit, a bucket seat, roll bar and seat delete. So it feels good to get that done. I am glad I brought it home.

I'm getting excited and its not even my car!

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Found one but do your homework! https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1168763

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No good for Cabs. The shock/strut towers are under the conv top. Cabs and Coupes are totally different roll bars

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Understood, but I thought I read this was going to be a dedicated track car with the convertible top removed and a hard top put in it's place?

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That may be his plan. But even if you remove all the CAB components the actual body layout is different and they will not mount up. Found a thread once where someone tried it and could not accomplish it due to several spots where chassis stiffening was added which caused issues. Not to mention you can find brand new roll bar setups similar to that one for cheaper. Titan Motorsports near me offers them for like $1500 in a few color options or customer color for $250 more.

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This part is good to know. I had wondered if after removing the soft top, a bar like this would work. I have decided to wait on removing the soft top, motors and such until a little later. There is plenty of other stuff to start knocking out first. I am going to get a simple cab roll bar for the first track day. Then, if it continues down dedicated track car territory I will get a custom cage made and sell roll bar. I am going to try and get this down to 3,000lb with most of interior and conv top still in place through the winter.

Surprised no one has mentioned oiling mods yet. Get a deep sump with a windage tray, or an accusump. Oil starvation leading to engine failure is a real thing with these motors. Risk goes up with sticky tires and faster driving. .02

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Just installed mine a few weekends ago after noticing oil pressure dropping in heavy cornering. I was running street tires. I did the Ln Engineering 2qt kit

I had been reading on that the last couple weeks about oil starvation. Looks like there are a few options for the deep sump kit ranging from 1/2 quart spacers to 2 qt increased pans with baffles and the accumsump. I am leaning toward the LN 2qt kit as it seems to be the most comprehensive kit. I have read about some not getting the accusump installed right and causing a catastrophic event. I feel confident in my ability to do the LN kit, so will probably land there. Definately needs to be addressed before taking it to the track though. Luckily he had the ims solution installed along with RMS and clutch, so as protected as can be on that front.

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I ordered my LN 2 QT kit from Partsgeek.com per the advice of another member as it was a huge discount over LN's page (nothing personal Mr. Navarro). The kit comes with an X51 style baffle that is very very well made. It was stupid easy to install if you are handy with a wrench. I also opted to go with the optional skid plate as it sits very very low. The setup looks really clean. I will warn that the baffle caused one hell of a noise while driving. Makes you think you messed up big time. There is another post going on about it right now as several of us on this site have the issue while others do not. LN is investigating the issue. I will find out in a month or 2 if it solves my oil starvation issue. Here is a link to the one i purchased Here is a link to the noise issue with the optional skid plate Here is a link to it on parts geek for a great price

Speed Yellow! You didn't mention it was Speed Yellow! If it were me, I'd probably buy a hard top for it, have the top painted Speed Yellow, and modify it for a track toy. It should be great for HPDE.

Just a thought, could you activate the roll bars on the cab, and leave them in the deployed position and still have the hardtop on?

That Sparco seat looks good in there.

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Thanks! Its a Sparco QRT-Performance with Brey Krause side mounts and sub strap mount on 996 sliders.

I wanted to post an update on this car... Since the last post, I have wired my 997 GT3 buckle into the car so that I dont have an airbag light, installed a Double DIN Carplay stereo, and hardwired the radar detector. The buckle was a simple matter, thanks to a fellow rennlister. Here is the thread showing the wires to splice into. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...n-a-996-a.html To get CarPlay in the car, which I cant live without these days, I followed the advice of some other threads and ordered the following. Trim kit, harnes adapter, Kenwood Unit, and CD keys from https://cai-store.com/ They had great customer service and all the parts worked as advertised. I also ordered a MOST to RCA adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DHTXR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc= https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DHTXR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc= 1 and USB port https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAMU8KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAMU8KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 off Amazon. The biggest pain was getting switched power off the ignition switch. This is a difficult space to get your head, hands, a light, crimper, and wire tap all into. It is straight forward, just a hard space to get into. The rest of it was easy. I put the usb port in the pocket above the HVAC controls. I can just plug my phone in and stick it in the pocket. I also ordered a hardwire cord for Escort radar and used the switched power in the bottom of center console I read about here https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-console.html As for whats next, I just ordered the DAS Sport Rollbar as it seems to be the safest pre-built rollbar solution for a cab. I will get it powder coated black and put it in and post pics. Just orderd today, so sure it will be a few weeks. I also ordered a set of RE-71r tires. They should be coming this week, but they have been on backorder with Tire Rack the last week and half since I ordered. I have always been interested in giving these tires a try, just not had a car/wheel combo that matched sizes they came in before. Oh and I ordered an Antigravity 40AH battery which should offset the rollbar weight gain pretty close to even. What I have my eyes on, but not 100% on yet is doing the Ohlins Road and Track Coil Overs. I am going to attmept to resist buying coil overs until January.

I plan on getting seats and harness in the next month or 2. I know nothing about race seats. how did you decide on a seat and what did it take to put it in?

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The best advice I can offer you is to find a dealer to go sit in a bunch of seats first and foremost. I looked up seat sizes and styles and brands for a month or so. I thought I knew what I wanted, but once I actually put my butt in them, things changed. Race seats should fit you like a glove vs. street seats are one size fits most. If you get the right seat, it will hug you and keep you in place regardless of Gs you are pulling. If this happens, you dont have to brace your legs and can turn the wheel with minimal effort. It is a huge positive change vs fighting to stay in place with a seat that does not have the right support. I found the Sparco EVO 2 fit me, but the Sparco QRT-R fit me a little more snug which I liked. The Sparco QRT-R shares the same shell as the Sparco QRT-C and QRT-Performance. I really like the appearance of the performance variant, so I went with it. I did have to put a thinner foam in the bottom cushion to get the right harness pass through height as the perfomance variant has small pass throughs. Where the harness pass throughs come to on your shoulders is really important as well and should take into account the extra height of a HANS device. If this is not correct than you are putting your safety at risk from spinal compression in the event of a crash. I wanted to try some Recaro seats, but did not have any to test fit. After my trip to sit in some at Discovery, I was not going to order a seat I had not sat in. As for the install, it is pretty straight forward. I bought a slider from an Audi TT and Brey Krause sidemount and sub strap mount. It takes a little time and patience to piece all the parts together, but its not difficult I would not say. Just a little tedious and time consuming. If you bought a fully assembled set from BBI or GMG it would save you time, but cost more. As for quality comparison I dont know, but I know I am very satisfied with Brey Krause quality and customer service. If you have other questions just ask.

Here are my December Mods... I spent hours removing surface rust in the wheel wells and pulled off the muffler mounting brackets that were no longer in use to get rid of rust. I still have some rust on my headers, so I will look to swap those when I find a good deal. I didnt really take before and after pics, but you can see the rust on the brackets that were removed. Had the stock wheels powder coated black Got a set of Bridgestone RE-71R tires put on Bought a Das Sport Roll Bar, had it powder coated black and installed it. January I will put the AntiGravity battery in I bought and get a deep sump kit. Maybe will get into suspension, we shall see.

How did the roll bar install go? Any issues with tight tolerances on the top closing or with limiting seat travel?

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Once installed it is all good with no clearance issues. Installation was a little extensive to get it all lined up though. When I placed it into the car, there was a gap on one side greater than the bolt length to attach to the rear seat belt mounting point. I called DAS and they said when it is heated up for powder coating the unsupported legs can move some. I did not check this before I took to powder coating, so I dont know if this is the reason. Either way, they suggested using a bottle jack to push the leg over. This took some time to get the bottle jack positioned with some boards to push the bar and have it lined up with the hole. The issue followed the bar that mounts to the floor as well with the same solution being a bottle jack. 2 people would be preferable in this situation, but I tackled it alone. It was definitely a little more labor intensive than I anticipated, but I am happy with the end result. It would not sway me on changing my decision to get this one even with the extra install time. I will say though, if one is looking for a bar that will go in and out easily before and after track days, this is not it. This is a put it in and leave it til you dont need it anymore or sell the car type bar.

Sweet. Right now my plan is to go up to Titan Motorsports either this friday or next week. They have a few bars that are designed for 996 and 997 and they think it may fit. Since they are only a few miles away from me it can't hurt to go have them check some measurements. It it fits, great. If not, to the next option i go..... Now you just need a hard top for your car!

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Is there foam insulation under that section of carpet? So the carpet (and foam if it is there) is sandwiched between this top plate and the floor panel, correct? Also, did the instructions include a drilling template for these holes to help locate them correctly? Thanks for your coverage of this! I'm interested in a roll bar myself and thought the DAS one looked appealing for the idea of being able to easy install/remove, but maybe not.

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There is a good amount of insulation under there. The torque specs on the bolts are 55 ftlb and it seems like the 55lb is forever away. The foam is smashed down ALOT and the end result is very solid feeling. As for easy in and out, I would go with a Tequipment bar instead. For something you are planning to leave in for long periods of time, I think this is a good choice.

Oh and no there is no template, they just provide pictures and written instruction. You use the base plate as a drilling template and just drill downward. I had to use a drill bit extension for the 3/8 drill bit to get the right angle for the back corner hole.

Thanks Targa!

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Did you treat the bare metal of the holes drilled?

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The holes in floor? No, I did not. I did have the bottom plate powder coated to prevent it from rusting though.

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Really enjoyed reading this thread, absolutely love the direction of this car, PLEASE keep going. As for the Ohlins, it seems like this is a logical next step for this car. I got mine installed over the summer and have really used the adjustability for the 4 track days I had available before winter.

I usually don't like black wheels but I think yellow and black is a nice combo. Looks good so far!

I wanted to update this thread as I have done A LOT over the last 12 months with the car. I have flip flopped in my head more times than I could possibly count with what the end goal with the car is. That has been the most frustrating part about it all. However, I have made this one extremely fun car in the mean time. It is an absolute blast to drive and FAST. It looks I left the thread off at powder coating the OEM wheels, so we will start there. About a week after I mounted the freshly painted wheels and new tires, I took the wheels/tires to the tire shop to check the balancing. My seat was vibrating when driving and had not been before. The tire shop informed me that all 4 wheels were warped and 1 was really bad. Why they could not have told me this the first time was beyond me. At first I thought the powder coating process warped them and talked to that shop. I took the wheels to a place near me that fixes bent wheels and they told me the warps in mine were not really fixable. So, my first downer presented itself. I had just spent money powder coating wheels for no reason and now I needed new wheels. I thought about buying APEX wheels, but I went to what I knew and spent around 3k on BC Forged wheels. Since waiting was about a month, I went ahead and ordered rennline wheel studs, Tarrett camber plates and HR lowering springs, knowing I needed an alignment anyways, so was the best time to do this. I got this next set of parts all put on and got an alignment. All good in that department now (until coil overs). From my extensive reading on the 996 forums, I knew I needed to put a deep pan and x51 baffles on the car, so I ordered the FVD kit along with some new oil and some transmission fluid. FVD kit went on no problem, but I ordered 1 qt too little of transmission fluid and then when I got the next bottle, I accidentally spilt it and had to order yet another one. I felt really stupid for all of that. I bought some Ferrodo DS2500s because I didn’t like the Hawk HP 5.0 or whatever they were on there and wanted a pad that I could trust at the track but could also be used on the street. I went ahead and flused brake fluid, replaced bleeder valves cause they were bad looking and swapped to steel lines while I was at it. I knew this brake setup would get me through my initial trial stages. I took it to its first track day at the beginning of May and was disappointed. I was blowing smoke and misfiring every lap. I did 2 � sessions and limped it home. When I got home, I knew I needed to address the AOS and ordered the Motorsport AOS. I also knew I needed new spark plugs and might as well do ignition coils. I found some leaking from water pump and ordered a new water pump, 160 LN Tstat and some hoses. I also figured while I was at it I would change the air filter and bought the BMC drop in air filter. Oh and while I was looking around I bought the underdrive pulley and new belt since I would be taking the belt off anyways. Learning how to work back there in that tight space was something to install all of this. Especially this one bolt on the back of the drivers side intake manifold. It had me to a point of serious frustration. I gave up for a day and then ended up using a box end wrench a tiny little turn at a time while destroying my forearms reaching back there. I bought some rennline track mats sometime around here because the stock matts just moved around too much for me. I knew if I was going to take it back to the track I was going to trailer it this time and I did not own a trailer. The trailer could also serve as a garage for the car and I could put my truck back in the garage, so I bought a 20ft enclosed Haulmark trailer. At this point we are in August and I went back down to AMP where I took the car earlier in the year that week for a private day. I figured it was best to try the car again on the same track to see where I was now. The car handled exceptional and was confidence inspiring. However, it was getting hot really quick and misfiring at high rpms. I short shifted and just kept driving cause it was fun. When I got it home, I took it to a performance shop down the street I trust (not a Porsche specialist though) and put it on dyno. It was way down on power, running lean on bank 2 and extra hot on cylinder 6. They recommend replacing fuel injectors, so I ordered some and did this at home. I took the car back out and it felt better, but not dramatic. So, I ordered 200 cell cats and headers from Speedtech in case one of the cats was clogged. I also figured I might as well get the Softronic Tune and get all of my power mods out of the way at once. Once getting the cats off, they did not look clogged, but I managed to break 2 header bolts. I also couldn’t get some of the O2 sensors out so I ordered all 4 new ones. Since I had broken bolts, I bought a cheap welder to try and weld a nut onto the broke bolts. That did not get the bolts out so I bought the Stomski Racing removal kit and got them off. I had to wait a few weeks on the headers and cats only to wait another week on getting the header bolts out. This car just likes to fight me along the way!! I got all of that stuff installed and the low end power, throttle response and noise level all went up. The car feels so much better now. Money well spent. Oh yeah I also bought the Durametric Pro to check codes and I thought I could do more coding with, but that part seems pretty pointless so far. Glad I bought it because a cam sensor wire came off and I was able to figure that out real quick with the Durametric. However, I had to fight startup misfires. They are still present sometimes even today but knock on wood has not thrown a code lately. I also went ahead and bought a hard top off ebay. Luckily I found a matching speed yellow one. Unluckily the freight guys bent the passenger front corner and I had to get a body shop to bend it back out to get the top on. I had to remove the hard top interior trim because it would not fit with the roll bar. I also bought a CSF center radiator, rennline grille screens and other necessary parts to install that and keep the temps down. I bought some rennline tie downs to mount under the car and new hood struts for the front cause it liked to close on it’s own while swapping the Anti gravity Lithium battery into the car before going to the track. Now, I felt I was ready to give it another go. I told myself if I could do a 1:45 at Barber Motorsports Park which I know really well and do 1:39s in my 991.2 Targa GTS as well as nothing break then I would cage the car. Knowing what was on the line and that the DS2500 pads didn’t have as much bite as I was used to on the track I ordered a set of DS1.11s to put on. Then I took it to Barber. To my surprise I did a 1:43, only 4 seconds off from my .2 Targa GTS. Now, I have an appointment to put a cage in the car Feb 1st and I need to start dismantling the rest of the inside of the car, install the OMP steering wheel with disconnect I just ordered and buy a head containment seat before Feb 1st, as long as I don’t flip flop my thoughts before then. I am sure I missed a few adventures in there, but this was extremely long trying to catch up the last 12 months. I will get some more pics when I have car out of trailer again.

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Getting the soft top out shaved probably 50-75 pounds. I havent weighed it so dont know for sure thats just my guess. I left the pop up roll over protection in for this phase until a cage is put in. The only issue running no soft top in at all is that the rear interior panels attach to the soft top base. Also, the OEM seat panels no longer have a bar to go over and have to rest on the side panels themselves. Other than that, for me it was not an issue to have the soft top removed. If I go to the track then use hard top. If just driving around town I dont need a top cause wont be driving in bad weather. I wanted to snap some pics now cause I will be taking out more interior pieces over the next month to prepare for the cage.

Here are the speedtech headers and 200 cell X Pipe Cats.

You've been busy. How was the header job? Seems like the worst part is the bolts but two broken doesn't seem so bad.

Quotes source post: 17067561

Outside of the broken header bolts it is very easy! The header bolts are a pain though. I was too nervous messing up drilling without the Stomski kit so I just bought it. I traded the Stomski kit to the tech at my dealership for labor on replacing a power steering hose though. Thats the one thing I didn�t do on my own (replace the leaking high pressure line). I was kinda frustrated at that point after the header bolt ordeal, so it was a good trade for me to just let him do it.

Here is what it looks like when you pull everything behind the front seats of a 996 Cab.