Looking for my first 911, had a few questions...

Hey everyone - long time lurker and gear head here that's looking to possibly get himself into his 1st Porsche. I've read through much of the site and had a few things to run by some of the more experienced folks on here. Some background first... I've been working on cars since before I could drive them and although I'm not a mechanic I've done an engine swap on a CB7 Accord, timing belt on an Audi A4, brake jobs and other stuff in between. I've also been driving manual all my life. About a year ago I needed to sell my A4 and get something newer and more reliable that will have a decent resale value - ended up in a 2014 Lexus GS350 RWD with the F-Sport package and Mark Levinson Audio. The car has great options and is fantastic but with Covid here I don't drive too much any more and damn it, I miss having a manual. In the past I've driven a manual 997 base convertible, a 991 CS with PDK and recently I've been fortunate to have an opportunity to babysit a 2003 996 C4S, also a manual and was told to enjoy the car as it needs to be driven. I've had a chance to put on about 1500 miles on it and really got to know the car....well and now I kind of really want one hah. Some thoughts as I start to search... - The IMS seems to be the thing everyone talks about. My understanding is that it's a wise preventative measure but it's not something that every 996 deals with. Higher mileage seem to be less prone to failure. I guess the benefit of the 996 is that the IMS is more easily serviceable than the 997.1 where it's actually in the motor?. - I like to drive and expect the car to have some mileage. What's a good number to shoot for? How are these cars at 70k, 90k and 110k miles? I'm sure this will play into the cost. Outside of IMS and regular maintenance, are there any big items to worry about? - Bore scoring - how serious of an issue is this? I've seen it come up here and there but again, could be blown out of proportion. - Having mechanical experience, I'd do my best to work on the car myself. Outside of stuff like clutch and IMS, are there any jobs that you'd suggest I trust a mechanic with? - Seems like getting a PPI is a no brainer here. How much can I expect to pay for this on a 911 at a reputable shop? - Speaking of cost, I'm thinking of allocating around $25k or so for this with some wiggle room potentially. Is this reasonable? I'm open to all models be it C2 or C4, S or base but it must be a manual and not a gray interior. - I'm specifically looking for a 996.2 with updated headlights. The look has really grown on me. Having said that, I've never driven a Cayman and feel like I should consider that. I know it's quite a different driving experience bc of mid-engine set up. If I did I'd be looking at an S variant to get closer to 300hp. Any thoughts there? Many thanks in advance for your comments on this stuff! Peter

Hi Peter, welcome to the hunt and the community in general. I'm going to give you kind of a general answer about buying a 996 but first I just want to say that the IMS / IMSB, and now Bore Scoring are big topics that can't really be covered in a few sentences. We have members that range from no cares in the world to probably too many cares and so if you are the person who is nervous of the risk I recommend you check out the YouTube series on both topics. "PCA Spotlight: Intermediate shaft and IMS bearing explained" and "Focus on Bore Scoring" by Rennvision. So $25,000 for a car sounds totally reasonable and I think you'll get a really nice Mk2 for that price. The question outside of that is - how much work will you be doing on this car? Even the Mk2's are getting old enough to vote... Soon enough they'll be smoking and drinking. You'll be doing fixes to aging parts that dry out and crack, fail over time due to wear and tear, it's inevitable. So addressing something like the IMSB retrofit or solution on top of the purchase price is going to easily add a few thousand to five thousand dollars to your purchase price immediately, depending on how deep you want to go. You have to split the transmission from the engine block to do the IMSB so lots of guys opt to throw a new clutch in while they're in there. Milage is tricky because again it circles back to your expectations of the car. Lots of people feel like higher milage cars are proven cars. The logic is "if something were going to happen, it would have happened." It is not true, however, that high mileage cars are immune from an IMSB failure. I think that 3,500 mi/year to 4,500 mi/year is ideal to keep the car in shape mechanically and good shape cosmetically, but that's my opinion and you're going to get a lot of answers to this. Go figure - my car sits in this range. Biased? Drive a Cayman if you can. I personally have a love for the 911 and have since I was a tiny little guy so I just can't imagine owning a Porsche that's not a 911. The 911 isn't the end all be all, but it is for me. That's why I have a 996. The 987 is a fantastic car and you should experience it if you think it might fit your needs as well. Just beware the fallacy that the M97 engine has fixed all the M96 issues. I recommend a new 996 owner set aside some money for the first few years as they get to know their car. I set aside $2,500 per year, used all of it some years and none of it some years. Now I have enough "996 savings" that I don't worry about stuff anymore. Happy hunting! And don't let the IMSB and Bore Scoring stuff overwhelm you.

Thanks for all that valuable information! I've seen quite a few resources on the IMS but quite interested to learn more about the Bore Score issue. At the end of the day it is a German car that like you said is definitely of age! With that I'm pretty comfortable setting aside $2-$3k should something go wrong. A healthy engine is my primary concern. I'm definitely aware that suspension might need some TLC and bushings might definitely be showing their age. I actually replaced the rear sway bar links and sway bar bushings for the owner as a thank you and had a chance to get a closer look at things. The one thing I thought about was cooling. Being the first water cooled 911 I'm sure the hoses that go to the front of the car and else where might be in need of attention. Stuff like that I'd like to replace little by little in terms of work I'll be doing on the car. Engine will most likely stay stock. Maybe do suspension as needed and the "lobster" wheels as I really like that look. Besides that just enjoy the car. Mileage wise you're right and I think once it comes down to it, I'll be getting a car with the IMS done and documented. From classifieds I've seen people tend to get that out of the way and ask for a bit more money, which is fair. I've been eyeing a nice 2002 Carrera with 95k miles and IMS done in a very nice shape for $24,800. Probably a bit high given the miles but nice condition and will probably be gone by the time I'm ready! I'll definitely try to get myself into a Cayman at some point. If anything, so I can compare and make an educated decision. Very curious to feel the difference in mid-engine vs rear engine dynamics.

OP - Welcome and good hunting. I agree with the Dr. Drive a 987 S. Regardless whether 996 or 987: Borescoping any M96/97 engine is optimal for a PPI, unless recent evidence says the cylinders have been recently and properly scoped. If you can wrench at all, you can do 90% of anything on these cars on stands in your garage. Still no guarantee an IMS, RMS, AOS won�t crap the bed on you after 100 miles, but dang these cars are incredible to drive! With a $3k budget for getting stuff up to snuff, find a car that won�t need a clutch or IMS any time soon. An engine drop at a shop is appr. 10 hrs of labor. Clutch or IMS parts will run appr. $1k. The hoses on these cars are durable. Suspension parts are reasonable and the work can be done in stages, when it�s time. And I just thought of some items for a PPI. Manometer check of system vacuum (should be 5-7 � H2O). Trans and motor mounts. Clutch, shifter function and cable condition check. Check condition of all interior and top/bottom exterior trim pieces...those buggers can run up costs in a hurry! Check the radiators and condensers. If they have bird nests and damaged fins, that could indicate what level of care was provided. Listen to the motor (hopefully after you�ve done some research to know what a suspect engine sounds like). If the car has had a lot of TLC, you may see mag drain plug, skid plate, upgraded exhaust or suspension, nice mats, touched up interior soft touch paint, and frequent oil changes. UOAs would be icing on the cake.

I will be posting my car for sale on this forum soon. I lurked around this forum for a year absorbing what could about these cars before buying one. My approach was to buy the best early '99 I could find reasonably close to me then arrange to send it off to FSI for a complete engine rebuild/reconstruction. I did exactly that.The car is awesome and is a blast to drive. We have plans for to add 2 more vehicles. We need room and this one is used the least and only by myself. For now it is only posted on thesamba where I have been a forum member for years. This may be too much too soon for the OP, but I'm presenting it as an option. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifi...php?id=2400741 https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...available.html

OP, lots of good info and comments available here on this site. I know you're looking for a 996.2, but if you decide a 996.1 is of interest, I'm trying to sell mine. '99 C2 with 103k. It has the original IMS since it's an early 98 build with the dual row bearing, plus it's a daily driver, so it's really not a concern.

hatchetf15 - thank you and fantastic info! It's very promising that most work can be done with the car on regular stands in the driveway, at least with my current living situation. Depending on when I purchase the car I may also get a cheap daily...we shall see. I've also heard about the AOS, with it being an issue the most if you track the car - correct me if I'm wrong. I know there are no guarantees but RMS, IMS and AOS seem to be the big 3 in terms of issues to worry about. Everything else seems to be regular wear and tear that one should expect with the age of the car. Also, good to know about the hoses being durable. Ideally, I'd love to have the space to pull the engine, inspect and clean everything (slight detailing ocd) so that everything looks good and you can see any leaks easily. Thank you for the PPI tips! Making a list of things to be aware of and these are great. essjayarr - thanks for the feedback...sounds like you did it right from the start! So far i'm sticking to the .2 variant but I never thought I'd be looking at 911's to start with so who knows if that will change. Astro - thanks for letting me know too. Like I said, I'll be selling my GS350 to mostly fund this. It's a rare combo of features for east coast (DC) where I am so hope to get some money for it plus the car has a decent resale value. With that said, I told myself I'd like to get my bank account to a particular number before pulling the trigger on something and being in tech sales that can happen next week with a blue bird deal or next spring. Still have much to learn though! For the record, here is the car that got me hooked. 2003 C4S. I did a full 2 stage paint correction and for a 17 year old car it cleans up quite nice! If you like a clean car as much as I do, black would be my last choice hah

I agree, 2003 4s clean up nicely

Beautiful! Is there a reason why only the "4" variants received the red strip connecting the tail lights?

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It's what makes the 4s special, but only the 4s has the red connecting strip, not the base 4. Its called a Heckelblend

I was in your position a few months ago. At first I had a hard time deciding between the .1 and the .2. I liked the glove box, cup holder and extra HP. But I kept getting drawn to the '99s. I liked the dual row IMS and it seems like a lot of the "car guys" favorite is the '99. I'm not a convertible guy so I those were out. I live in SoCal where there's no snow and I already have a Subaru, I didn't want the extra weight and possible complexity of the 4 even though they're better in the curves. I was able to find a '99 that checked most of the boxes within my budget and I'm happy (don't like the steering wheel on the '99 though). I'm in IT. Our budget is pretty flush this year because we're not spending any money. My boss isn't flinching at the price of anything. So if you're dealing with companies that are still doing business you might be able to sell some big ticket items!

ssherman68 - thanks for that info. I.ve read about the dual bearings in the .1 and was wondering why Porsche went to a single row design when dual seems more robust. I know there were still cases of failed IMS on .1 but much more rare, especially with proper oil changes. A RWD option would be my preference too since snow is pretty rare in DC and maybe I won't completely rule out a .1 but the things you mentioned to make sense. I have seen some nice examples on here with the all clear headlights and the aero kit but those seem rare as well. On the IT front I agree with you. Somewhat fortunately I'm in the security space (Privileged Access) and while I had projects fall out due to covid and cut budgets I've also had a lot of projects take shape, especially with the new remote workforce and added risk of how people will access servers and other IT resources securely from home.

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Yup. The dual row can still fail. It's definitely still a good idea to get it replaced if it's OEM. From the things I've read it seems like it's a U shaped curve: There are some that fail early on. The ones that don't are fine for quite a while but most of them will fail eventually. The mechanic who did my PPI has a '99 daily driver. I think he told me his IMSB failed around 175K miles and that's when he rebuilt his engine. He's now at 240K. The theory is the ones that sit a lot, take short trips and don't get the oil changed often enough get a higher concentration of gas and other contaminants in the oil that weaken the bearing seals. It's a similar situation with bore scoring. The cylinder walls get bathed with a lot of fuel while the car is still warming up. If a car spends a high percentage of its running time in the warm up phase (short trips, people starting it & not driving it in the winter...) then the cylinder walls stay under-lubricated. A good video to watch is the "Focus on Bore Scoring - Preventing Bore Scoring" on the Rennvision YouTube channel. I lucked out with the lights and IMSB on mine. The PO replaced the IMSB with an LN bearing so mine should be good for another 4 years. It's got the factory litronic headlights on it so no fried egg look. Another previous owner had also swapped out the side marker and tail lights for more modern looking ones & I love the way it all looks! Yeah, VPN is kind of a big deal now. We used to have between 12-20 people on our VPN. Now it's 150-370.

Interesting... if you had the LN Engineering installed why is the bearing good for the next 4 years only? I know nothing lasts forever but sounds odd that the upgraded bearing would only last that long.

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LN says they're good for 7 years or 70K miles I think it was. I'm sure they're being conservative. By that time if I still think I'm going to keep the car for a long time I might spring for "The Solution" which is oil fed and good for life.

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I�d recommend reading this entire page: https://lnengineering.com/products/i...7-engines.html Cliffs Notes: scroll about two third of the way down to get to the �service interval� of their bearings.

moosetaco - that's perfect. Didn't know there were options that can be used for a number of years and the lifetime version! Very cool. Pretty broad question and hard to give a specific answer to but as I look at various sold listings and current prices, what experience has everyone had when it came to negotiating the price? I know this will depend on factors like options, mileage, IMS/RMS done, having records and etc, but with that said, 996 is not an uber rare car and there are tons of them out there....unless you're looking at something specific or like Targa, GT cars and etc. Porsche also tend to hold their values and can appreciate and I'm not sure how good of a resource KBB can be for this. I'm asking as in some cases I'm seeing pricing pretty all over the place for cars that are not that different. How much has everyone been able to knock off the asking price or how many paid the asking because it was worth it. Also, very familiar with the saying "nothing is more expensive than a cheap Porsche" so not looking to buy the least expensive. Genuinely curious how things work when it comes to these cars having zero experience.

I wouldn't call myself a shrewd negotiator but I have had success paying the price I'd like to pay by simply putting it out there as a firm offer with a check in hand. Generally something like "Hi Seller, I really like your 996 quite a bit. I'm willing to give you $2x,xxx for it, pending no major mechanical issues are found during inspection." I feel like there's so many tire kickers out there just having someone making an offer, even an offer with contingencies is a breath of fresh air. The car in my avatar was not local to me, so I offered exactly the dealer's asking price as an "out the door" price (make selling price and taxes equal advertised price,) with covered transportation to Las Vegas included. So I'd say I "saved" a couple grand but not conventionally.

Fantastic advice! I was successfully able to knock off a grand when buying my GS by offering what I thought was a fair price and stating why. I think making it easy for the seller is key, especially when they deal with tire kickers, as you mentioned. I've purchased from dealers in the past and there was always something so I'd much prefer to deal with a private seller but we will see what turns up. The nice thing that I have seen more often than not is that most (not all) Porsche owners do a reasonable job and maintaining the car and keeping records which is refreshing and a tremendous value add to me. Not a shrewd negotiator either but being in sales I certainly appreciate it keeping it direct and simple.

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Negotiating is honestly much like any other car, the better educated you are when you go in, the better off you'll be with the end results. Everything you noted definitely makes a difference, C2/C4/C4S, aero/non-aero, well documented vs none, mileage, and what preventative maintenance has been done. Because of all this I wouldn't put too much weight on a KBB valuation because there are examples that can fetch both much higher and lower. Similar to Dr.Stange I was pretty much set on paying for what the dealership was selling it for, however I was able to negotiate knocking off a chunk of the "administrative" fees. It really depends on how serious of a buyer you are. Best thing I can say is just look around for comparable models to what you truly want and use that as a starting place. There's a lot of variables to factor that can swing the price within a pretty broad spectrum.

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I think you should substitute bore scoring for RMS as a primary concern. RMS can be addressed along with the IMS and clutch for $3-4k. And at the end of the day, it�s an oil leak. Bore scoring is a full engine rebuild to the tune of $12-20k. My #1 piece of advice is to pay for the full drop-the-oil pan inspection for any car you are considering, unless it�s had the block replaced or sleeved recently. It seems like a lot of money to spend, relative to the purchase price of these cars. But it�s less expensive (and painful) than finding out you need to rebuild the engine just a couple of months into ownership. Ask me how I know.

Ditto the bore scoring inspection. These engines are old enough now that the next long term wear issue is showing. Depending on a number of factors, the engine will develop it, leaky injectors, poor oil maintenance, poor fuel, and some others... Don't let us scare you away, though. These are amazing cars!

wsrgklt - that's a very good point. I need to finish watching those videos on bore scoring. Is getting a bore scope something that would give a relatively good idea at the shape of the engine? It's definitely something that scares me a bit given the cost to fix it. I'm curious if it's one of those things that can appear if the car wasn't driven much and had irregular oil changes or something that is a bit more of an issue as you get higher in miles? Given that the car I'd be getting would be probably 65k+ miles I'm curious how serious is the issue. golock911 - just trying my best to learn and not step in a proverbial pile of sh** They're definitely a blast to drive! I'm hoping that buying a car from forums or something like a PCA member might yield a healthier example!

I think if you approach the purchasing phase seriously and are firm and fair with your offer it will be an easy deal. Even someone selling a car privately is dealing with nonstop hagglers and probably scammers to boot. Hell, I read an article on The Drive today about a guy who bought a 991.2 turbo from a dealer with a check HE PRINTED HIMSELF. So, my point is, be realistic, don't be afraid to show genuine interest in the car if you are genuinely interested in it. It's a myth that you have to pretend you don't want it.

Thanks Dr_Strangelove - valid points and how I typically buy and sell. Make a move or move over. I watched the series on Bore Scoring you recommended and now I'm a bit paranoid, so thank you hah. It seems like there isn't a straight answer to the issue and a combination of factors can cause it. Even if you do everything right. Outside of a bore scope, one thing that I found to be a great indicator is a regular oil analysis. They did show one where there was a significant spike in a particular particle found in the oil that indicated that bore scoring could be happening. I saw a car for sale right up my alley that had these records with very steady numbers. Seems like outside of dropping the oil pan, bore scope and oil analysis are 2 great not overly invasive diagnostics to do.

Just keep in mind that scoping through the top of the cylinders will only show late stage scoring. It usually starts from the bottom of the bore and that�s why dropping the pan to take a look is the recommended way to inspect.

Ah yes, you're right about that. I think it's something worth doing with the right car if that's the last thing holding back the purchase. Or I could just roll the dice...

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Everyone has to make their own risk assessment based on personal circumstances. I rolled the dice and lost, but I had $15k in the bank that I could spend without affecting my family too much.

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I rolled the dice on mine, but ended up having a couple of cylinders checked out anyway, later on, along with the sump plate being dropped. In my mind, getting a 996/997 bore scoped is like going to get a physical with full bloodwork done at the labs. It�s no fun, downright uncomfortable at times, costs time and money, and there�s a lot out there to be afraid of - and a lot of things that can kill you - but it sure feels good to get the results back that says �normal, healthy� than to lay in bed at night wondering about it.

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This is sound advice if it weren�t for the fact that some sellers hide scored bores with some oil additives prior to selling the car. It�s only after a few hundred miles that the new owner realizes the issue was there prior to them buying it. Not trying to scare you; just the way some people roll. Even the dealer may or may not know they�ve been screwed and may accidentally screw someone else.

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Yup, and that's why I bought one with a blown engine and then rolled the dice on used motor with low miles that's been a solid gamble...I now have an FSI build at the end of the year for the blown engine. I'll be looking for another (.2) roller later next year. Fantastic cars for the money! Pete, with your budget I'd seriously consider one of the FSI built cars for a little more.

Mike - thanks for that feedback. When dealing with most dealers I assume they know nothing about the car. There are always some questions you can ask to see if they even have a clue about the car. It really seems to me like a matter of when and not if with the scoring. I'd be curious what data looks like on owners that experienced this and how many have been fine. I bet there is also a percentage of people that just don't know. With the IMS, when it fails, you definitely know it. Bill - I'll be looking to spend around $25ish K and try to stay below $30k. At $30k I've been seeing some 997 models out there with similar mileage but the 996 almost seems like a better proposition if for an IMS that's "easier" to service and 997 not being immune to bore scoring as well. I don't think either of those issues go away till 997.2 with the direct injected motor. Taking your approach would be awesome and a great experience but I'm limited for space to be able to do a full engine rebuild.

BTW, thanks everyone for the input and guidance! I'm sure these threads pop up every so often and I appreciate the different points of view that come up and help in making the right decision! I'm not scared off yet but want to get into it with a clear understanding of the platform.

Even the 997.2 are subject to bore scoring, notwithstanding the new 9a1 direct injection engine. Not on the scale of the 996 but then again they are not as old. Good luck with your search.

Wowza, between scraping this forum for information and the recent $41k Targa thread the learning process and the search is proving to be pretty fun hah! It looks like I may be looking at a potential car soon. It sounds like a very attractive proposition based on the notes from the seller: I purchased the car on December 26, 2015 from a Porsche dealer in Columbus, OH...mileage 88,258...I took delivery on 12/31/2015... I did not use the car for three months from (January 1, 2016 to March 31 2016) while we “snow birded” in Naples FL... I have used her as my daily personal vehicle since purchase including four trips to Naples, FL down and back... Early summer of 2016, about six months after purchase, it appeared to be using about a quart of oil / 1200 miles...no signs of smoke Additionally the engine had slight ticking noise, with me being a worry wart, I took her to my Porsche Mechanic...said oil use was normal, BMW’s and Mercedes did the same... Other than those concerns the car ran fine, but due to the constant fear of IMS failure, I asked him to further investigate... He bore scoped (I think), found two cylinders (suspect only), but decided to rebuild...took out of service in July 2016, mileage 96,565, (8,307 miles) after my purchase... In August 2016...shop removed the engine, cases sent to LN Engineering, bored to 3.8, installed Nikosol sleeves...replaced IMS w/Single Row Pro...one year warranty... LN Engineering returned cases, heads were resurfaced, including valve job, tested, and placed back in service...the car has run without incident since... Rebuild complete with two pages of parts, including the Air Oil Separator, with the Oil Pressure switch replaced June in 2019...Oil Changes with Mobil One... I drive this car on a daily basis...moved to Naples, FL in May 2017...and returned to Pennsylvania in June 2019...car runs great...a few cosmetic issues... Present mileage is approximately 127,820 with only 31,000 miles on engine...overall it’s a sixteen year old car averaging only 7,900 driven miles/year... Four New General Performance Tires in April...clutch is fine...brakes are about 40%...needs Emission Filter...Drivers Seat Back leather is cracking...needs Detailing... I still want to do a PPI and obviously ask to see receipts to prove the engine work. With all this done, would it still be wise to drop the oil sump and look into "the soul of the engine" or is it a moot point now? What are some other PPI items to pay attention to? My guess, given the mileage on the chassis, would be the suspension bits. Not sure what the emission filter is. Given the LN cases and IMS done (pending proof by invoice) this is looking like a no brainer if no rust. It falls within my price range as well. The potentially big bonus is that the car has the X51 power package which I believe improved some of the oil and cooling issues. What are your thoughts here?

Green light with a PPI. No need to pay for bore scoping If they can prove the Nikasil bores with paper. Fingers crossed for you Peter!

Thanks @Dr_Strangelove . That's what I was thinking as well. There is one issue with the car that I was able to learn and it will cause it to fail emissions. It has to do with the Emissions Filter. The code that was mentioned to me was P0045. A quick google search told me this is specific to a boost issue with turbo models but obviously this is not a turbo. The owner said it has to do with emissions leak in a canister or charcoal filter next to the fuel filler. Can someone confirm this? The only other issue has to do with the "terms of the purchase" The seller seems to have his time wasted by tire kickers and the car has been for sale for almost a year. He is insisting on a good will deposit, which would be non-refundable. I plan to see the car soon and am obviously ok paying for the PPI but in the worst case scenario where I pass I'll be out the PPI cost, which I expect, plus the deposit, whether it's $500 or $1000. I've bought cars before but have not come across this before. I'm optimistic but cautious.

Hmm. Big yikes. Ancient wisdom says you need to buy both the seller and the car. In my humblest of opinions - I think you should be treated the same way I was and a PPI should be enough skin in the game to prove you are a serious buyer. Ask the seller if he will consider this and perhaps offer to share the findings with him at your cost. To me that is much more than enough good will.

Oh, and absolutely do not pay the nonrefundable deposit before you do any more business with this person. The idea is asinine. There are too many sweet 996's out there for you without those terms. With 3.8's if you so desire. The market is very fluid.

Agreed that Nikasil sleeves is part of the engine reliability fix. Do people do invasive PPI on Nikasil engines? I don't know. If the car hasn't moved in a year, something is scaring people away. Yes, tire kickers are a problem, but not for a year. Hopefully the PPI comes back with more info on the code, like xxx vacuum leak. Good luck !

Thanks golock911! Dr_Strangelove, your reasoning definitely makes sense and that's what I'm leading with. We all hope that the seller will be honest, but seeing recently what can happen, paying a non-refundable deposit on top of a PPI is a no-go. Having said that I think I might be able to perform my own PPI without the need for any deposits. It seems like the good will deposit is required if I want to have a PPI done at a shop. This makes me wonder if the seller is trying to hide something? I've been working on my own cars for years and have always performed my own PPIs on cars I purchased before. In the last 3 months I have also driven around 1700 miles in my friends well kept 996 C4S so I know what a well sorted car sounds and feels like. I may take him on the option and perform my own PPI to start with to get a base feel for the car and review all the service and engine build records. Just need to source access to a Durametric (I live in DC). With my own PPI I have nothing to loose if I end up not buying. Maybe I can still convince him otherwise. Only other concern is that code that is causing the emissions issue. If it's some minor charcoal canister issue then that's not bad. Just don't want to be replacing a cat or something else major. Engine wise with 31k miles on the Nickies rebuild things should be fine, again given proper rebuild and service records. Because rest of the car has closer to 126k miles, I know the suspension bits will need a closer look as well as other underbody parts that could be rusted through. Besides other consumables, like brakes, what are some other things I need to focus on? I want to give this car a look, if it's for experience sake and to start looking at what's out there. I'm keeping my expectations realistic knowing that if not this one, then there are more 996s popping up all the time. If it does work out then that's fantastic. The real reason I want to give it a look is the rebuilt engine, which is the attractive part here eliminating the concern for bore scoring and IMS. Something I wouldn't have to worry about for foreseeable future.

You could benefit by finding out if the emissions related code is a minor fix or something more major. I did not do that in buying an E46 BMW and trusted the Seller's comment that the code merely indicated a faulty gas cap. A year later I am still trying to track down the issue. Its not a biggie, but something that could end being an expensive surprise. Good luck with your hunt. I am in Canada and presently considering a 99 C2 with 145,000 KM for $25,000. Flipping the brain through the decision making process is not always fun. Am glad you shared your experience as I have the same concerns and questions as you. jb

Good luck with your search ArcticOne! It can be time consuming and a bit stressful but I enjoy the thrill of the chase and search. I usually go in to anything like that with trust but verify, so I will definitely be scanning the car for this and any other codes. I'm not too concerned with over revs as the owner is an older gentleman in his late 50s or early 60's so I doubt he's been redlining and doing money shifts. It was his bucket list car.

I don't know about any of you other mature gentlemen(56), but I plan on redlining until I'm at least 90... I actually did it the other day missing a shift off the on-ramp camera green.

haha love it and no offense meant!

absolutely none taken.

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There�s a driver at Autobahn Country Club they call grandpa. Wanna take a ride with grandpa they asked? Sure. They guy slide around an AMG 63s like it was nobody�s business. Doesn't matter how old, what matters is condition. We have a 1978 Yamaha piano that looks almost brand new. Inside looks new. It can last another 100-150 years. We have a 180 yr-old burr oak tree in our yard. It could last another 100-200 years. Why 90? Maybe you can make it to 100!

Ha! Very true. Age = experience too and happy to see folks driving a sports car like a sports car. I was driving my friends 996.2 C4S and came up on the new 992 C4S. It was great seeing the 996 hold it's own and the driver of the 992 gave me a thumbs up and sat behind me enjoying the classic curves With regards to the car with the rebuild engine, I think I'm going to walk away - and I'm ok with it. As it was said above, when dealing with a private seller, you're not just buying the car but also the person selling it and this person is making things complicated and insisting on selling the car as if it was a house with the 'good will' deposit. He did offer a $2k allowance to address any issues uncovered by the PPI but at that point I must purchase the car or I'm out the deposit and I don't know what the PPI would uncover. Essentially, walking away can cost me $1000 and as a buyer walking away is the most powerful thing we got and paying for it doesn't sit well with me. Also, all the difficult negotiations around the PPI conditions without even seeing the car seem like a flag that any other negotiations might be just as difficult and walking away at that point will cost me $1000. He hasn't been able to sell the car is over 40 weeks so who knows if there is something lurking that had people walking away or if the person is just that difficult to work with. The rebuild is the attractive aspect of the car but the rules of the whole engagement are not. Search goes on...and am still enjoying it!

With this attitude you're destined to have an absolute cherry of a 996 in your garage before long. Fingers crossed again!

Sounds like a smart move. My My Seller is being more than accommodating (price reduction, PPI assistance, patience with me). As such it is good to wait for the right one - they do exist. jb