1999 996 210K on chassis 130K on motor

Yup.... I bought a 996 with 210K on it. Had to take the plunge. Boy am I hooked. It was originally purchased so that I could restore it and that it cost me less than a new engine 9K~. At that time I had no paperwork on anything done to the car until I found a receipt while repairing the passenger seat. Called the previous owner who lived in San Diego and he mailed me EVERYTHING! This car had new Porsche remanufactured engine installed at 83K. Been through 4 clutches, 2 flywheels, some new wheels here and there with the bent suspension replacement parts to go with it. New shocks at 174K. About 40K spent on it that I have documented. (NOTE: NO DOCUMENTED IMSB CHANGES OR UPGRADES) I knew about the engine mounts so I replaced them, new serpentine belt, fluids, etc. I do I have driven 5K in a few weeks to get a feel for what is next. Nothing. Maybe I am having a few communication issue's with my new Porsche seat but my *** feels nothing! Ok clutch is a little tight and it rattles for the lack of a better term on cold start (not lifters) which is gone in about 1 second which I researched and this could be timing chain tensioner's? I feel the need to do something! I have been paying attention to this forum and searching for open issue's with this engine but I have no symptoms (besides the rattle in the morning). The reason for this post is I don't see any 996's that have this a high mileage on them so I was hoping that I could steal a few words of wisdom from the 'long in the tooth' members out there. Do these motors last this long and what are your recommendations for keeping this engine alive excluding the obvious. I will do the IMSB when I do the clutch.

This is a local car: 2000 911 with 500K km (310K miles). Original motor and IMS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtEq9OeGF60 Having said that, aside from the IMSB, you may want to investigate the condition of chain guides and lifters. Water pump is also a generally recommended item for periodic replacement.

Nice. Thanks for that. Water pump replaced 168K Chain guides require engine removal?

Hope you're a DIY kind of guy.

You have large ***** and a small bank account I take it hahaha. I would have ran a mile away from it. I would have worried myself to death after that deal haha.

I bought a 99 with 128k. I had an intermix issue and a warped head. I ended up having the engine rebuilt by Jason at 9XX Motors. I needed new IMSB, RMS, timing chain guides, clutch/flywheel, head resurface and a few other things. one of my timing chain guides were almost worn completely down. I have pics on my thread..... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-rebuild.html

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Not the sharpest move but neither was my first wife and I'm still here!

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Sure I am. Just don't know what to make of this Beetle on steroids.

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Sorry to hear about that but that's what I had planned for however so far so good.

Relax and enjoy the car. Drive it like a normal vehicle and don't spend too much time reading paranoid threads on Rennlist. 996 is a great car on many levels. Paint jobs and anti-corrosion treatments on the cars are phenomenal. Engines and transmissions will last just as long as their counter parts from other makes. Motors fail on all types of cars from Nissan Versa to Bugatti Veyron. 135k on the motor is nothing for the car. Keep driving it and maintaining it like a normal car.

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Believe it or not but that's what I wanted to hear. Next time I'm in AZ....

Not a 996 but I have 282K miles on my 02 Boxster's engine. I change the oil/filter at 5K miles -- run Mobil 1 0w-40 up until the last change when I have the Porsche dealer service tech use Mobil 1 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!). Not worried about the miles on the engine just the ambient temperature. Since where I live it does not get that cold in the winter I'm probably going to stay with 5w-50 here on out. Other fluid/filter services done when the miles (or time) calls for them to be done. I do not experiment with fluids. Instead I either use or have the tech use whatever fluid Porsche recommends for the application. I have the coolant replaced every 4 to 5 years. Do not forget the brake and clutch fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. Take care of problems when they arise. Do not for instance try to postpone addressing a noisy/leaking water pump. The only internal engine work I've had to do was I had the passenger side VarioCam solenoid and actuator replaced. The solenoid/actuator failed. The cam chain rails were just fine. Keep the radiator ducts free of trash build up and be sure the body water drains are also free of trash build up and water can drain. Oh, saving the IMSB upgrade to when I do the clutch hasn't worked out so well for me. The car is on its original clutch. If you think you need to have the IMSB done for peace of mind do it and if the clutch is worn enough to justify it replace it, otherwise reuse the clutch hardware.

finally a thread that make my car value go up

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Thanks for that Macster. Answered another question about oil viscosity for me too! I see your and addict here so let me ask you a question on temperature and tolerances. I have been monitoring all aspects of this car and memorizing them better than what I'm supposed to be doing at the office in order to create a good database (in my head that is) for future maintenance Went to Palm Desert Last week for a few days. The car had a fresh oil change the week before. Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic. I did this to place some stress on the system and see what readings I get. (Don't tell my wife that). Outside temp was 110 average here is my question. Since I have so many miles on the engine I assume that the engine temperature and oil pressure would give me an idea of the integrity of the cooling system, oil pump as well as the tolerances inside the engine based on oil pressure. Here is the average based on 30 minutes driving around on surface streets. Palm Desert Ambient temperature 110 Engine temperature 195? (Needle not quite past the 0 on the 180 mark) Idling at 750 rpm (roughly no AC) 1 psi Driving 3000 rpm 3 psi (Saw the oil pressure light flutter after dropping it to 500 rpm on take off) So California Ambient temperature 85 Engine temperature 180 Idling at 750 rpm (roughly no AC) 1.25 psi Driving 3000 rpm 4 psi At these temperatures I would assume that If the oil pressure was low with a fresh oil change this could indicate excessive wear in the engine. Do these look like they are within spec? Your thoughts would be appreciated.