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YOUR RESEARCHOil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
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Mainly because the subject hasn't been beaten like a dead horse, or filled with wrong assumptions/opinions that sometimes prevail in the forums and causes arguments/debates, it is a "Virgin Subject".
Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
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Years ago, when I had the VF supercharger, installed a dedicated O2 sensor and AFR gauge.
Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
Replace with sai blockoff plates (those came
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All the piping, valves, and electrical items are gone and replaced with SAI blockoff plates (those came from Germany...
Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
Test blow-by
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We have tested the blow-by on typical M96 engines and found it to be 12-14 LPM at idle (more under load, of course) Of that 12-14 LPM, 13% is water vapor (H2o).
Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
Use hose springs in my setup
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Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
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Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
Replace inside the accumulator
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Suggestion
The Accumulator is designed to keep high velocity of the blow-by gasses, and it's low volume and hot placement keeps water condensation from happening while oil droplets/excess oil will fall out due to high velocity direction changes inside the Accumulator.
Oil Catch Can Installation, Vacuum Canister Relocation
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Before anybody asks
'
why the heck would you install an oil catch can when you could buy PorscheTech3's Ultimate AOS Solution
'.
.. let me say, I wish I had been slower to finish the DIY 3.4 to 3.8 rebuild and motor reinstallation, because that's exactly what I would have done. Nice product!
So one of the goals for the rebuild was to
completely eliminate
the SAI system and cats (for obvious reasons) and to be able to relocate the vacuum reservoir to the air injection pump location. Scott at Softronic made that happen with a custom DME flash. All the piping, valves, and electrical items are gone and replaced with SAI blockoff plates (those came from Germany... hard to find here in the US). Now it will be very easy 20 years from now to replace vacuum lines. Yes, I hope to pass this car down to my daughter one day. She's 14 now, and am teaching her to drive an automatic. But soon, a 6 speed manual! Hope this doesn't make her more popular with the boys... Hmmm. I digress.
The catch can is a custom unit I had built to spec by
Saikou Michi Co
. From what I've researched, it's important to have a 3/4" ports. Most of the aftermarket stuff is smaller. As you see in photo, the throttle body vaccum port could have been rotated slightly more. I took a 7/8" drill bit to ream out one end of a 3/4" petrol hose so it would fit more easily over the tube from the AOS unit. I purchased stainless line and AN parts from frozenboost.com and assembled the drain line. I still need to fabricate a bracket. For now, the hoses hold it just fine.
Photos, in no particular order, tell the story better than I can!
hose overkill
7/8" inch drill bit to ream out one end of hose that attaches to AOS plastic hose
after 7/8" reaming (inner diameter further is still 3/4")
plastic AOS tube
Saikou custom made catch can with 3/4" ports
assembling oil catch can drain line with AN fittings
catch can and vacuum reservoir relocated
oil catch can to throttle body
vacuum hose splitter reversed
vacuum reservoir relocated
catch can drain (easy to drain from underneath car during oil changes)
Very clean.
My experience with catch cans, is they effect fueling while under load with these engines. In the past I did something a lot like you have pictured. There's a few tables that need to be altered when doing this, else you can except over- enrichment to stem from it.
It's not too late !! I know the guy who Invented the UAOS..
That car is very nice, and with the fresh 3.8 engine deserves the "Elite Version UAOS" with 6061 CNC'd Aluminum Accumulator/Stainless Steel Infra-Red Sensor and all OEM components..
Expect a lot of water condensation with that set-up also. I too ran a set-up like that on my 996 and can tell you the technical reasons why it's not ideal, if you want me to.
Hey guys. Appreciate everyone taking the time to reply.
Hi Jake. Thanks for the warning. Years ago, when I had the VF supercharger, installed a dedicated O2 sensor and AFR gauge. On the Soul crossover pipe, I blocked off bank 1 secondary O2 bung and for bank 2 using the O2 sensor. I'll log some data with and without the catch-can to determine variances.
I'm all ears! I don't plan on dropping the engine down for a complete AOS Solution install. Would it be possible to locate and silicone the AOS vent using a WIFI endscope? And "join" the existing plastic AOS tube to your kit? Also, given the vacuum splitter has been reversed, will your accumulator still fit properly?
Yes, please! I'll venture a quick guess... the longer, uninsulated path allows heated air to condense?
Even these
FILL-RITE
hoses? They�re pretty stout. Their website states "�internal spring guard". I'm not the buffest of guys
, but with my thumb and middle finger I cannot collapse it.
Everyone have a great 4th of July! Looking forward to more discussion.
Yes, you are partly correct, but there is more to it.
The combustion process produces two main byproducts, Carbon Dioxide and Water.
The longer hoses and remote mounting of the "catch can" will lower the temp of the water vapors and promote condensation, also the larger volume of the large chamber will slow the velocity of the blow-by gases and promote condensation also. We have tested the blow-by on typical M96 engines and found it to be 12-14 LPM at idle (more under load, of course) Of that 12-14 LPM, 13% is water vapor (H2o). Water or "water vapor" is 88% Oxygen (by mass) as compared to normal Atmospheric Air which is only 21% Oxygen . The DME is Calibrated for this extra Oxygen . The "02 sensors" work by looking for the "lack of Oxygen" and make necessary adjustments (leans the mixture), but it can only do this in the "Closed Loop Mode".. Under Load the DME is in "Open Loop Mode" and does not look to the 02 Sensors for help,but rather runs on its set Calibration, and therefore runs "rich" due to less Oxygen than it expects as Jake referred too..
To put it shorter and less technical, water in the correct percentage is good for the engine and is Calibrated for it and expects it. Not only does it contain more Oxygen than Atmospheric Air, but cools and slows the burn process allowing more timing and effectively reduces pre-ignition.
The UAOS adds no length to the Crankcase Ventilation System. The Accumulator is designed to keep high velocity of the blow-by gasses, and it's low volume and hot placement keeps water condensation from happening while oil droplets/excess oil will fall out due to high velocity direction changes inside the Accumulator. Also the Accumulator of the UAOS is equipped with an Infra-Red Sensor to warn of dangerous level of oil accumulation, to stop the onset of Hydo-lock.
You do not have to remove the engine to install the UAOS. it is no more difficult than an AOS replacement in situ, which on a 996.1 isn't THAT difficult, before I retired I had done many, 996,986 AOS's, the fastest one was my first one, it only took an hour, but I was in better physical condition and got slower in my 50's -60's..Many 996 DIY'ers complain of the difficulty, but in reality they are just not used to this type of work, these are the same ones that can take a half a day or more when swapping from Summer tires to Winter tires..and as comparison a Nascar team can do it in 12 seconds. It's all relative but I do suggest Professional Installation., mainly to keep down talk of how hard it is, or what concerns someone may have which throws a negative light on doing the procedure.
The "Elite Version UAOS" will be released soon and will feature an Aluminum Anodized Accumulator, a Stainless Steel Infra-red Sensor and all OEM components.
The standard UAOS with Carbon Fiber/Nylon Accumulator, and with URO components will still be available for frugal budgets at same price, and have option upgrades of components.
With all the difficulty talk, I expected the 996.2 AOS R&R to be a lot more difficult than it was.
I can think of a lot more difficult jobs I’ve done before.
I wouldn’t hesitate to install the UAOS again.
Only tough part was the breaking of parts.
(Plastic coolant Tee, oil filler tube)
Thanks Bill,
I enjoyed giving that explanation. Mainly because the subject hasn't been beaten like a dead horse, or filled with wrong assumptions/opinions that sometimes prevail in the forums and causes arguments/debates, it is a "Virgin Subject". Although I would NOT want to repeat it 50 times in 50 different ways to people who don't quite understand or can't follow, which unfortunately happens a lot.
In this instance what made it enjoyable was, the subject came up, I offered some Technical info/explanation, it was graciously accepted, I presented it in fairly good detail....And I don't expect any debates or arguments or opposing opinions.
But what if...
Where’s your proof...
You’re wrong...
You’re just here trying to sell your product...
They never fail, you’re just trying to scare people...
I know a smart guy who said...
Yep. It's coming, soon Porschetech3 will understand what its like when the "vendor haters" jump in. How dare you develop a product to literally suck the money right out of the wallets of these poor Porsche enthusiasts!!
It all changes when you start selling things in this world.. Then after a few years you want to go out to your garage and burn every Porsche you own, because you feel like a jackass when you sit in the driver's seat.
True story.
Hey Skip. Thanks for the thorough explanation. Your and Jake's contributions to us 996 owners are invaluable. No vendor hating here! Looking back, I should have consulted Rennlist a while back before I spent the $$. Oh well, what's another $200 when I threw about $20k+ on the DIY engine rebuild.
I'll try eBay. Maybe I'll get lucky and a BMW owner will see it. Unless, Bill, you want it? LOL
As for the UAOS install, I'm comfortable doing it myself. But I think I'll wait another 500-800 break-in miles because I may be dropping the engine down again to fix cam timing. They're within spec, but one bank is advanced, and the other retarded. I figured I need to allow the new cam chains to stretch a bit and for the chain pads to "find their groove". Anyway, if I do bring the engine out again, it would be the perfect time to invest into your elite version.
I'm back working at home 5 days/week until the end of July.
So I could use something to distract me some evening...something rectangle-ish and made out of black anodized aluminum.
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I took the experts' advice and removed the oil catch can. Here's the result, with a couple of detailed photos of the vacuum line routing. Skip, I'll check back with you in a few months!
AOS combination plastic tube and Fill-Rite rubber hose attached to throttle body
AOS combination plastic tube and Fill-Rite rubber hose attached to throttle body
vacuum line routing (alternate canister location)
vacuum canister relocation with vacuum line routing
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