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YOUR RESEARCHOil Change on IMS Solution
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Reported cause
The OP's previous problem with the cartridge and bypass problem was previous to this issue as he is speaking about the 1348 spin-on filter on this problem
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Got the pan nut on at 37 ft lbs and pre-filled NAPA Gold 1348 on hand tight.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When it came time to change the break-in oil out it was: drain oil, change filter(1348) which I filled with oil, add oil and start car.
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Suggestion
Check the old filter so that it came off the car properly.
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Suggestion
That said, for the OP, if you have the filter you took out still, easy to check the o-ring is still on it and not somewhere else, like in the housing.
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause
The OP's previous problem with the cartridge and bypass problem was previous to this issue as he is speaking about the 1348 spin-on filter on this problem
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Afternoon all,
Today I needed to change my oil on my 996, with Solution installed. This is my second (personal) oil change on the car and my first was slightly traumatic, as I couldn't make oil pressure because the bypass valve was on the wrong side of the cartridge.
Today I have the same problem -- making oil pressure. I figured it would be pretty routine since I can use a spin-on now. Dropped the oil and oil filter. Drained as much as I could after having put the engine at operating temperature. Got the pan nut on at 37 ft lbs and pre-filled NAPA Gold 1348 on hand tight.
Per the Solution instructions it says to start and stop the engine 4-5 times, for three times, to get the engine to make pressure sooner. I did this one cycle. Left it for about 10 minutes. Came back to start the second cycle of 5 and the second time turning it over the engine got so low on idle RPM the car killed itself. (Like if one were to pull the clutch out too quickly). All the time I'm not getting any oil pressure. Dipstick reads full. Digital gauge reads 3-4 tics above low mark.
I'm confident it's just an operator error issue and not actually related to the oil. For those that have BTDT, what am I doing wrong? Appreciate your suggestions and thoughts.
Had a shop install the Solution over the winter. They did the first oil change with it.
This is the first time *I've* done a change with the Solution on the car though.
So ok. I had my engine rebuilt by FSI which includes the Solution. When it came time to change the break-in oil out it was: drain oil, change filter(1348) which I filled with oil, add oil and start car. Oil pressure popped up quickly. Not sure what you got going on...? The only time I've heard of the start stop deal was newly built engine or after sitting stored over the winter. You say that is part of the Solution instructions???
Yes, the instructions read, "Quickly starting and shutting off the engine 4-5 times will help to achieve oil pressure faster. Repeat this step two additional times. Check and top up engine oil as needed."
I took it to mean for all oil changes, but perhaps it is just for the oil change post-installation. I have a feeling my problem with the car "dying" is possibly unrelated to the oil change and my correlation is in error.
How long before your oil pressure popped up? 1 minute at idle? 3? How long should it run before one would get concerned?
I double checked and have no oil leaks below the car and everything was torqued and tightened, so I'm confident the oil system is closed.
Oil pressure should come up in 10 seconds maybe, feels long when waiting for it. The start-stop is one way of building pressure. Another way is to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it for around 30 seconds(gives your battery/starter a good workout also), the pressure goes up to around 2-3. The fuse trick doesn't always work since the oil pump needs some kind of speed(and a little oil) to work, then you have to do the start-stop....or just start.
Just the other day there was a thread where the owner missed to remove the old oil filter gasket when changing filter...thus it was dubble gasket. Check the old filter so that it came off the car properly.
Wowie Zowie! Something is wrong. I have done countless oil/filter changes, filled with fresh oil, start up engine and blam...oil pressure up in like one second. If you are wondering about where your oil pressure is after 1 minute of idle, there is something definitely wrong. Oil sender died is common, stuck oil pressure relief valve is possible. An oil change is pretty basic and hard to get wrong. Is the oil filler cap on tight? Did you bust the oil filler tube...it happens.
Looks around and slowly raises hand.
Yeah, that was me. Not too difficult to know there was a major problem, ya know, due to the lake of oil that ended up on the garage floor.
That said, for the OP, if you have the filter you took out still, easy to check the o-ring is still on it and not somewhere else, like in the housing.
About the only other thing I can think of is the hex drive key in the oil pump sheared. Walk back through all the steps, pull the filter and inspect. Not trying to increase your cost of an oil change, but I would pull the filter, inspect and get a new one. There are several equivalents to the NAPA 1348. Might try a different brand this go around.
Something isn't adding up here. You claim to have the Solution installed on your engine, and yet you speak of a cartridge filter and its bypass valve. The Solution comes with the spin-on filter adapter and a spin-on filter. What are you doing with a cartridge filter if you have the Solution? I don't follow the argument about the bypass being at the wrong side. Please explain.
You may be misinterpreting the start-up instructions. You should start the engine and quickly shut it off. Do this about 2 or 3 times and verify you have pressure on the gauge. There is no coming back and doing this again after 10 minutes (or any duration) - either you get pressure or you don't. If you don't, then you need to investigate why.
1) No - I don't think so - repeating the step after you've already started and stopped the engine 4-5 times makes no sense. Again, you have built pressure, or something is wrong.
2) I am doing the start-stop procedure every time I start my car now. I just rebuilt the engine and I want to be sure I have oil pressure confirmed on the gauge, every single time I start-up. Unfortunately, I am only driving it about twice a week, so it sits for a few days at a time. The only thing I am putting extra stress on is the starter. Replacing that will be much cheaper and easier than rebuilding the engine again. Yes - the car dying is a problem. You really need to understand that before trying to run it again.
3) Oil pressure should build within 5 seconds. Running an engine without oil pressure for more than a few seconds can result in catastrophic damage.
This is a joke, right? He could be using 0W-20 and would still have oil pressure if there isn't something seriously wrong.
Classic analysis paralysis, or how to make a simple task complicated.
Here’s my interpretation: this is the second oil change the OP has done on this car, but his first since having the Solution installed. His first oil change was with the original OEM cartridge filter, which went poorly.
Assuming the oil pressure was good before the oil change, and he is now using the correct spin-on filter:
1. Drain the old oil and re-install the drain plug
2. Remove the old filter
3. Make sure the o-ring is not still on the adapter
4. Fill the new filter with oil
5. Screw it on, and tighten to spec
6. Add the engine oil
7. Start the damn car! This is not a brand new rebuild that is being started for the first time. There will be residual oil film still on the bearings. Forget the start-stop BS. If pressure doesn’t come up within a few seconds shut it down.
still not convinced it’s not a troll.
Could be. That thought did cross my mind when reading his "story".
Edit: Some of the pieces are fitting together. This guy has 6 posts. The first three were from a year ago with the cartridge filter problem he describes. Might be a translation issue. It was unclear to me how the cartridge filter was relevant to this latest issue.
The OP's previous problem with the cartridge and bypass problem was previous to this issue as he is speaking about the 1348 spin-on filter on this problem
My 02 996 has the Solution installed. First (and only up to this point) oil change I had no oil pressure on the gauge and had the computer warning me of low oil pressure. It turned out the oil pressure sending unit went bad. I had plenty of oil on the dipstick. The OP should verify oil on the dipstick then remove and re-insert the wire leads to the oil pressure sending unit. That should wake it up for a bit. Mine worked for a couple of days then went back to scaring the crap out of me with oil pressure warnings. One new sending unit later and the problem was solved.
Correct. Either I misread the first post, or it was a little confusing. After finding his first post ever, from a year ago, it became a little clearer the relevance of the cartridge filter. Hopefully it is just the pressure sender. But, that would not explain why the car died.
That's right. I'm here to keep you honest. It's practically a full-time job....
I have a theory about this also. No proof nor data to back it up, only a theory. Here goes...
Any time the engine is first cranked the injectors pluse in an extra quantity of fuel to ensure combustion at �tick over�. Additionally, the DME calls for an overly rich mixture to facilitate quick heating up of the cats for emissions controls. This is evidenced by the fact that the air pump turns on and puts extra oxygen in the exhaust to ensure the extra fuel is burned in the cats. The repeated start/stop cycles cause the injectors to squirt significantly more fuel than required to run the engine. When the engine is finally started to run, the mixture is much too rich for good idle, possibly causing it to stall.
Thoughts?
I think you're more correct than not.
It wasn't my intention to appear to be a troll. Just didn't want to destroy my engine from a foolish mistake, which is so often warned about in these forums.
The car stalling was unrelated to the oil change. After letting the car sit overnight, my dipstick read full but my digital gauge read 3 tics above low. Put about another quart in the car to get the digital gauge to read full and turned the car over. Probably 15 seconds (maybe a tinge longer....it felt like forever) the car made about 4 bar of pressure.
It's now showing a lower "running pressure" (3-4 on start, 3 running, ~1.5 idle) than on the previous oil (5 start, ~3.5 running, ~1 idle). Maybe it's because I have more oil in the car, or because I switched oils, or because it's freaking hot at the moment. Anyway, it's making pressure and the car stalling was unrelated.
Appreciate the constructive responses.
I still think there is an issue. Either with the sensor or the oil pick ups. I have never started a vehical that took more then 1-3 sec to build oil pressure including my old school '86 14.1l Peterbilt motor. If it were me i would swap sensors and if that didnt do it i would drop the oil pan and make sure the screens r clear.
also dont trust the dash guage, u should be in the middle of the dipstick. Over filled is not good on these motors
^^^THIS
OP: After sitting overnight on a level surface what is the oil level on the dipstick? Try to keep it around the middle and only add when level reaches the low mark.
