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YOUR RESEARCHCooling Issue
Leading reported evidence
Use laser temperature gun, and received some interesting readings
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a laser temperature gun, and received some interesting readings.
Leading evidence: 'Use laser temperature gun, and received some interesting readings' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'coolant is not flowing' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check (like, open it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
If you suspect coolant is not flowing to radiators because possibly a T-Stat is stuck closed, one way to check for this is to start the cold engine and lift the car and let the engine idle while you *carefully* check the temperature of the lines to/from the radiators.
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Suggestion
Check (like, open it and check) the coolant tank level.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Check (like, open it and check) the coolant tank level.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
On both sides there is a fillet for the grommet, I read on a different forum check the passenger side.
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Suggestion
If you suspect coolant is not flowing to radiators because possibly a T-Stat is stuck closed, one way to check for this is to start the cold engine and lift the car and let the engine idle while you *carefully* check the temperature of the lines to/from the radiators.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Background: I month or so ago, I had to replace the alternator, and in the process broke the plastic female-female coolant line holder running behind the pulleys.
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Suggestion
None of your readings indicate coolant temps sufficient to open the OEM thermostat completely - so agree that until you run the car up to temperature, you won't know whether the thermostat is/isn't working correctly.
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Suggestion
I typically use a drop of dish soap or other water-based goop that will not remain slippery once the water has evaporated, but whatever you've got handy is better than trying to jam that sucker in dry.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
coolant is not flowing
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Suspected cause
If you suspect coolant is not flowing to radiators because possibly a T-Stat is stuck closed, one way to check for this is to start the cold engine and lift the car and let the engine idle while you *carefully* check the temperature of the lines to/from the radiators.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So I posted on another thread, and didn't want to further hijack that thread.
My 996 through a engine compartment fan inop, and got the flashing red light on the temp gauge. The temp gauge showed about 205. The front Radiator fans did not come on.
Background: I month or so ago, I had to replace the alternator, and in the process broke the plastic female-female coolant line holder running behind the pulleys. I replaced it and drove on. I didn't realize I had to bleed the system. So after the car through the light I went through the Bently manual and bled the system. The car is still throwing the light.
After bleeding the system I get the same results. The temperature needle does not peg out.
My currently plan is to set the AC display to show the temp, drive some, and use a laser temp meter to verify the accuracy and take it from there. I will also try and reach in to verify the radiators are getting warm. I stuck my hand in there but didn't feel around a whole lot.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
The 2002 MY doesn't support the A/C display of engine telemetry.
The gage is really just for show, a crude indicator of coolant temperature. Besides, 205F is below the temperature at which the DME activates the radiator fans. 212F is what I have observed as the fan activation temperature.
You can get an OBD2 code reader/data viewer and monitor coolant temperature via the OBD2 port and communication with the DME.
What you see through the radiator ducts at least peering in from the front of the car are not the radiators but the A/C condensers, unless your car does not have A/C.
It is rather hard to get to the radiators without removing stuff. And you have to be careful where you stick your hand as the radiator fan can come on and you could loose a finger or two, even a handful...
If you suspect coolant is not flowing to radiators because possibly a T-Stat is stuck closed, one way to check for this is to start the cold engine and lift the car and let the engine idle while you *carefully* check the temperature of the lines to/from the radiators. At some point the T-stat will start to open and allow coolant to flow and you should feel this as warmth.
If the engine gets warm/hot and the lines to/from the radiators remain cool, especially the ones to the radiators, that's a sign, could be a sign the T-stat is not operating properly.
Another possible explanation is the water pump has lost its impellers but chances are if there was this much free play in the water pump shaft/bearing assembly you'd hear something.
Ok thanks, I saw the AC condensers, I thought the radiator behind them is the actual radiator.
I will have to just check with the laser and see if/what opens whens. I read where someone's engine bay sensor fell against the block. I hope that it all that it is.
So last night I drove the car. One thing that struck me odd, that although the car was cold soaked and the temp was 42 degrees I had heat almost immediately.
I used a laser temperature gun, and received some interesting readings. With the car off, I shot what I thought were coolant hoses. Up as far as I could see, the temp was 118. Right at the thermostat it was 140, and the hose connecting to the thermostat was 130 ish. It almost seems like a stuck thermostat. I need to let it run to 180 then take the readings.
The low-temp t-stat opens at 160, the OEM at 180. None of your readings indicate coolant temps sufficient to open the OEM thermostat completely - so agree that until you run the car up to temperature, you won't know whether the thermostat is/isn't working correctly.
The flashing red light in the temp gauge is also used to indicate low coolant levels. Check (like, open it and check) the coolant tank level.
I always display my coolant temps.when I drive my 911, so I can at a glance monitor coolant temperature. Last trip I took to go skiing my display read between 186C up to 190C depending on ambient temp. and whether I was on the throttle or not.Outside temps. varied from 32F to 36F.
Yes, the radiator is directly behind the condenser. In some models the radiator is a bit bigger and one can see parts of the radiator but one has to get down and peer in.
So this weekend I took some data points, withe car sitting at idle I watched the temp climb, using the IR temp gun, the whole way up the gauge, and IR matched. At 180+ on the gauge the thermostat housing was the same as well as the coolant hose exiting the thermostat. The coolant hoses as far as I could see gave a -10 to -15 reading off of the thermostat.
So it seams cooling system operates correctly, I did notice my engine fan came on at 180 (gauge and IR temp gun) and stayed on for a while with the car off, so I believe the fan temp sensor to be the culprit, So where do I find the sensor and how do I change it?
Thanks in advance
Engine fan temp sensor is located in the engine compartment is all I know. A google search will help you locate it. (I'd do it but I have to leave for work in a few minutes.)
However, I do not think what you observed is the engine compartment temp sensor acting up. The engine compartment temp sensor to state the obvious measures engine compartment temperature and this measurement/reading is used to turn on the fan.
I do not recall the temperature at which the engine compartment fan is switched on but it is less than the coolant temperature which triggers the radiator fan motors to come on.
The engine compartment fan coming on when it did is normal behavior and staying on after the engine was shut off is also normal behavior. (My Boxster's engine compartment fan will come on even after the engine is shut off if I leave the car unlocked. My 996 Turbos'e engine compartment fan will come on after the engine is shut off even if the car is locked.)
I don't have time to review the thread/your posts but I think you/we may be getting a bit off track.
If there is a warning light on you need to consult the owners manual for its meaning. Some lights have different meanings depending upon if they are on solid, or flash, or even flash at different rates. From what light is on and its behavior you can get a pretty good idea of what is possibly wrong.
In addition to Macster's comments: the engine bay temp sensor sometimes works out of its mounting grommet and comes into contact with the engine, resulting in artificially high readings. Search here for some of those threads and confirm that your sensor is mounted correctly.
Intake manifold between 4 & 5.
Pull the rubber grommet out and put it on the sensor if you try to just shove the sensor into the grommet while it is in place you will be fishing for the grommet in the bowels of the engine.
The photo above unfortunately doesn't apply to you (maybe it was from a Boxster?). Your sensor is on bank 2 (passenger side), #12 in the diagram below.
sensors.jpg
No kidding?!! On both sides there is a fillet for the grommet, I read on a different forum check the passenger side. I just stuck my hand in following the wires until I found one loose, and eventually recovered the sensor.
It was a SOB to get pushed back in the fillet! Car MOCd good.
Thanks for all the help
I typically use a drop of dish soap or other water-based goop that will not remain slippery once the water has evaporated, but whatever you've got handy is better than trying to jam that sucker in dry.
Can't wait to see the responses that last sentence elicits from this group...
That may fix your flashing light issue but it's not going to fix the car reaching 205F
You should airlift the cooling system. If there is a air pocket in there they can be a huge pita on these engines. Plus it will show you if there is a leak in the system. I had a pinhole in my front rad that wouldn't leak on to the ground but, introduce air and always over heated the car. Took forever to find that.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
