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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWater hose connector to oil Separator snapped
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect whenever you need
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
That hose needs to be disconnected whenever you need to remove the left intake manifold (e.g., AOS replacement).
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect whenever you need' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect hose' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If the connection leaks after you put everthing back together, you will need to disconnect the hose to change out that spring clamp.
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Suggestion
To intall the new oetiker clamp, you should be able to use a pair of dikes carefully to crimp the ear.
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Suggestion
For the black clamp, you can use slip joint pliers or vise grip pliers.
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8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T103553Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So that just happened, sigh. Damn brittle piece of plastic. Barely touched the hose and snap. A geyser of coolant everywhere.
I see there's an upgraded after market part on pelican made of aluminium. Worth it?
Plastic Genuine Porsche 996-106-226-52-M100 $7.25
Anodized Aluminium Aftermarket 996-106-226-52-M157 $43.25
This will be my first venture into the 911 engine to make repairs. And I have a few questions...
How do I remove and replace these hose clamps?
Now that this happened, do I have to/should I flush the whole coolant system or will it be fine to just replace this and top it off a little?
Check post #2 here for the original parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Hydraulics.htm
For the black clamp, you can use slip joint pliers or vise grip pliers. For the bottom oetiker clamp, there are several ways. What works best for me is use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry open the ear of the clamp to release its tension then it can be removed easily.
To intall the new oetiker clamp, you should be able to use a pair of dikes carefully to crimp the ear.
You can just refill the coolant tank to max and do manual bleeding.
Make sure that you get all of the plastic out of the hose.
Some folks have had good success by crushing the hose breaking the plastic barb and pulling out the pieces.
Others have been able to extract the plastic barb mostly intact using an over sized screw in the hole and pulling the barb out. What ever you do make sure to get all of the bits out of the hoses.
Also see post #3 here
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ling-part.html
I crushed the barb through the hose and dug out the bits. Extremely brittle.
I think i'm going to reuse the black clamp, that isn't so black anymore, the paint is chipping. But it looks like it's still springy and good. Why did they use that kind at the top hose and the oetiker clamp at the bottom?
Also, why is this not just one hose to begin with!? The lower hose is so short anyway.
Everything is there for a reason
That hose needs to be disconnected whenever you need to remove the left intake manifold (e.g., AOS replacement). The reason for the spring clamp is so you can disconnect. The oetiker clamp I think is because that part doesn't need disconnect and it's close to the pulley so a low profile clamp gives better clearance. Also, oeitker clamps are vibration resistant.
Btw, I would recommend getting a new black clamp (I posted the correct p/n) because it may have lost its tension due to age. If the connection leaks after you put everthing back together, you will need to disconnect the hose to change out that spring clamp.
Go to Home Depot and in the plumbing isle get a brass barb coupler. Then drill out the left over plastic bracket so the brass fitting can go through it. Use new fuel injection hose clamps and put it all back together and the coupler will last.a lifetime. There are several.write up on this. I did this to my car 3 years ago.
