Spin on oil filter - alternatives

For those of you who have the spin on oil filter adapter installed. Which filters do you use? When I ordered my adapter online with design911 in the UK I checked the box for an additional filter to be supplied. No type was mentioned when ordering. It turned out to be a K&N spin-on filter (if I remember correctly it was the HP-1007 Gold) Now my Indy saw that I had it installed and for some reason he is not so keen on K&N for oil filters. It seemed they had some issues over the past, such as filters leaking, even coming completely loose etc. When looking on the internet I come across some issues with motorbikes some years ago. He made a statement that K&N should stick with making air filters and not oil filters So far so good, his experience and his opinion. Since I am not so knowledgeable in all this matters I am willing to follow his advice on swapping the filter for a brand with a better name with respect to manufacturing oil filters. * So I was curious on what fellow rennlisters are using on their cars? A quick search revealed Napa, I came also accross Mobil M1-107. * What are the options and alternatives? Size, flowrate * What should be considered when choosing the right filter: i.e. see that some spin-on filters still have a bypass My oil change interval is in between 7.5-10k so that should not be a concern!

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From the IMS Solution guys: The filter used is a Napa Gold 1348, which crosses over to filters manufactured by Mobil 1, K&N, Mahle, Mann, and other quality filters worldwide, making oil changes quick and clean. The supplied filter uses a similar bypass valve to the factory filter cartridge arrangement, but at a higher bypass pressure. The supplied Napa Gold 1348 uses a superior resin impregnated media to capture more contaminants than an OE filter. The size of filter used provides a safe ground clearance without sacrificing function or performance.

Napa Gold 1042. I'll buy a half dozen at a time and always check/swap it after track days. I do miss the ease of checking the cartridge filters but have found using a dremel to cut these open at the base works pretty well.

"My oil change interval is in between 7.5-10k so that should not be a concern!" Napa Gold 1042 (?) - go to the LN website and do a search (it's not the same filter as used for the "Solution" IMSB btw). Also, reduce your oil change interval to 4-5k miles or 6 months - whichever comes first. Good luck

99 C2 @138K+ DD - change oil <5K, use M1-107....drive on and not second guessing choice

Ok thanks ... you guys are superfast in giving advice! I am changing oil 2 to 3 times per year, So no problem. I see I had my km/mls conversion a little off. I rechecked it, I am doing 5-6k change intervals. Driving the 996 16-17k per year If I want the Napa I will have to source a dozen ... Here in Europe they do not sell Napa. So I will need to order overseas in the US and get them shipped. Or there has to be an an equal alternative from another respected manufacturer which is available here?

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I was just going to point that out.

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It might help if you specify where HERE is HINT: Edit your avatar so my question will not be asked again

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It looks like "here" is somewhere in Europe... In any case, do a "cross reference" on the Napa Gold filters, and you'll get a list of the same filters (or nearly the same) filters with different branding...

Yes somewhere in Europe is good enough for me to source the parts as there is no customs and extra taxes involved when goods are bought and shipped within Europe. Mostly the shipping fees are very reasonable too if not at all free from a certain value onwards. BTW I am located in The Netherlands ... maybe should adapt my avatar yes!

Still wondering where K&N got this so called bad name ... Searching it I only encounter issues that bikers were reporting back in 2012 with leaking oil filters from K&N.

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He probably heard it from a friends sisters brother in-law who was a "really good Porsche mechanic"...

Should be something like that!

I don't have the number of hand but I use a standard WIX filter. There is zero need for anything else unless you like spending money.

The only benefit that the K&N has is a stronger filter body. When developing these components we found that the sweet spot wasn't just with filtration, but also with oil volume and pressure at various RPM points, and oil temperatures/ viscosity. Often times the best filter from a filtration stand point, is not the best from a flow perspective. Forget the ratings that you see published, don't even look at those.

Not a number cruncher on this one. Just curious if alternative filters are as good as the LN recommended 1042, or the K&N HP-1007 i looked for a cross reference and found the earlier mentioned Mobil M1-107 and the Mann ML-1013

Here a cross reference to help. http://www.oilfilter-crossreference....vert/NAPA/1042 WIX are good filters too.

@Silk, I went through the same thinking process a few months ago and ended up ordering from design911 as I was going to the UK at that time (I'm NZ based). The list I compiled is in this post: rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/935473-ln-spin-on-oil-adapter-worth-it-3.html#post13328760 Also one from LN? This seems to be suitable as well? I'm not sure maybe someone else can chime in. http://lnengineering.com/products/ot...r-adapter.html

Jake - a sort of on/off topic question if you may know the answer... I've been noticing engine oil filters are getting smaller with each model year. My '04 BMW - average size. My '13 BMW - smaller (though larger displacement engine). My daughter's '10 Mazda 3 - small oil filter. My son's '13 Mazda 3 - tiny filter (like a can of condensed milk)! Same size but different engine. Is filtration getting better or are the manufacturers getting cheap?

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Exactly the same question. Did miss out on that topic when searching here on the forum I will also copy your list of filter as a reference here Napa Gold 1042 Platinum 1042 Mobil 1 M1107 K&N Gold HP-1007 additionally mentioned but not commented on by our oil-experts Wix 51042 (in post there is stated that Napa Gold 1042 is in fact a rebranded Wix 51042) Mann ML1013

Going slightly off topic here, anyone recommend a supplier of the spin on filter that ships to Australia? I'll be using the mobil1 filter as I can get them off Aus ebay. ​

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Hi mate! Is this the for your ebay seller ? What I'll do is to buy the Napa Gold filters off Amazon, get them sent to my US re-shipper. The Amazon seller charges USD8.55 incl. free US shipping. K & N actually ships to NZ for USD6.93 but based on comments I want to change to another brand.

Thanks 318touring, that's not the eBay seller the one I'm looking at sells mobil1 I can get the K&N from my local autobarn if need be I was actually referring to the L&N spin on adapter itself. Anyone know of international stockists with reasonable international shipping rates?

The lack of evidence for these comments about k&n made me decide to ignore them and just leave the filter on. Did not find any reference for a bad HP-1007.Will also use the other spares I bought together with the adapter for the next oil changes. And will not let any sleep for it.

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why not try to contact one of the LN preferred installers in Australia? http://imsretrofit.com/preferred-installers/

Guys, I now have a spin on filter and Nappa Gold 1042 sitting on my desk. Any instructions other than the torque to 25Nm with 26mm deep socket? Does the adaptor rubber ring need to be oiled? Dealership is installing this for me next wednesday and I have to give them very clear instructions...

oIL it : http://lnengineering.com/products/ot...ayman-911.html

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Did you test any of the long/oversized filters? I'm considering the Amsoil EAO64 which is 1" longer than the 1042 filter. Burst pressure rating is a little lower though... thoughts? The longer filter element should allow for around 30% or so less pressure drop compared to the short version of the Amsoil filter.

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*facepalm* should have read the instructions on the page! I'll print that out and put it in the box with the adaptor for the dealership, thanks!

I've been a fan of the SS mesh option for a few years now and just ordered more for my Mercedes and Triumph bike. High initial price but its the last one you'll need to buy among many other benefits Check out the original thread here - https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...il-filter.html

BAD.TAG your thread makes mention that you have seen a difference in oil pressure from the spin on adaptor/different filter. Has anyone else noticed this?

Dan - The explanation I got was that its due to the full flow design of the LN Spin On adapter and not the filter itself (maybe Jake can confirm). My initial concern was that the pressure wasnt immediately hitting the max 5 as it did with the stock setup, however there are times when it does so its no longer a concern That said the K&P design is designed to flow at a much higher rate than the standard media

Thanks for that, i'm going to follow the recommendations of Napa Gold 1042 and going to ask the dealership for 5w40 rather than 0w40 as that's the LN recommendation for both the IMS Pro and Spin on filter. Joe Gibbs oil isn't an option as im in Australia, im actually going to struggle to find another Napa Gold/WIX filter and not pay $40+ for it by the time I pay for postage as well. I can get the K&N filter quite easily though so that might need to be what I go with next service. This product/setup seems to be tried and tested so all good.

The Napa filter is an Interchange for a GM V8 engine - check please. You have(had) Holdens so there must be a local alternative that is almost as good?

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​​​​There would be I can get the Mobil 1 filter off Aus ebay as well. I think the K&N is on the recommendation list so ill just get those.

Hey dan_189, I've just sourced Napa filters off Amazon for USD17.10 for two plus the reshipment cost of NZD19.50 to my front door. Works out to be around NZD25-ish per item which is not too bad as Porsche filter is around NZD50 each.

Nice, I can get them from a supplier in Sydney for $19 each but the shipping is $15 which makes them $34. Or I could just get the K&N locally for $22.50

Just remembered I might be on holiday in the USA next year, I'll buy 2 dozen... Problem solved!

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I did this every time I was overseas. Earlier this year I bought a bunch of 996 parts from Design911, got them sent to my London hotel and I managed to claim VAT back. I had Pelican Parts sent me a lot of BMW parts to my Anaheim hotel last time we went to Disneyland. That will be the best way to deal with the fact that we are at the other end of the world!

Gives us great reasons to travel haha!

Keeping with the new topic, how did you get the vat back from design 911. did they give you a tourist vat receipt? I am heading to nz shortly, and taking the car. Looking on design911 website i can purchase stuff vat free if i send it direct to nz, but if delivered to UK they put the vat on. Very keen to buy some more parts here prior to going if i can get the vat off.

Hey sammaw, just tell them that you'd like to claim VAT back, they'll send you the form that will need to be stamped by an EU custom agent, and returned to Design911. Remember that the custom agent 'might' inspect your purchases hence you'll need to have them in hand (luggage). Although based on my experience in Rome the custom agents couldn't be bothered as they were busy enough dealing with people who forgot to include their passport/ticket/wrong receipt etc. etc. They'll refund the VAT component onto the credit card you used for the purchase. You can do this with everything - suddenly your �1000 LV bag is cheaper by 20% minus VAT refund-processor fee.

Thanks 318, believe this is the vat tourist reclaim form. Brillant to know design911 do this, i just bought some stuff off them, but that will be going onto the car prior to shipping. Limiting to hand luggage sort of stops me buying tyres etc, but still plenty of things that may be of use.

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Id sort everything you could before you come over, being on this side of the world makes everything more expensive. Good luck with the move!

Just get one of these, just the look on your friends faces when you open a filter is worth the expense. Plus it works really well. http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?prodid=7630

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Wow, $68? Would a can opener work? I've never tried opening one of those filters before.

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I'm with you, I have this killer set of Ginsu knives...

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Very funny - we're not loaded like you lot over there .....

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I'm with you 318, while it is a lovely bit of machining, it is a bit excessive cost for what it does. although I haven't used on, I'm sure there is another solution. Would a pipe cutter work? A mini grinder and cutting wheel would work but would likely introduce a lot of filings.

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Tin snips - NZD35 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFXYN5ZN9S8 - although he should be wearing better gloves Hacksaw - will contaminate the inside too much? Can opener? If I earn my living by charging lots of $ hourly it will make complete sense to me - 30 mins cutting a tin can, or $68 and only need to spend 30 secs. No contest. But since this is a hobby, it's rather ridiculous :-)

I'm sure you could find some appropriate tools at your local Bunnings Warehouse, and the gloves as well!

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That's my goal for this weekend!

Gents, had the adaptor and Napa Gold filter installed today by the dealership. My oil pressure didnt go over 4.5 even on full throttle?? Not really liking that. Anyone else experience this? Is the K&N filter a solution to this? Details are: 0w40 Mobil1 (Joe Gibbs isn't available here!) Car was driven for around half an hour so should have been up to temp

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I've used hundreds of the spin on filter adaptors with the Napa Gold filter (including the first one ever installed on any M96 engine) and have yet to see any oil pressure differences. I think what you have seen is the 0/40 oil compared to whatever you had previously. I have seen differences when going from 5/40 down to 0/40, no matter what filter is used.

Thanks Jake, I was previously using 0w40 also. The OPC didnt have any 5w40 which is what I wanted (I have the LN dual row PRO IMS Retrofit) but settled for 0w40 again. Any other theories? Slightly un-nerving from previously seeing 5 on full throttle before to only seeing 4.5 on full throttle. Car is an Australian delivered 2004 C2 Manual, 81k (kms) FWIW

A full 5 bar of oil pressure on an engine that has achieved peak oil temperature is abnormal. Typically when I find an engine with oil pressure this high, it is because the pressure relief inside the bottom of the factory oil filter canister has gotten weak, or failed. This moves unfiltered oil, in higher volumes past the original filter. This decreases filtration greatly, while elevating oil pressure 9falsely). Today most of these canisters have gotten weaker springs, due to time in service, and heat, which kills the spring tension. I think what you've found, is that you had a part that needed to be changed, you just didn't know it... Are you comparing this at the same oil temperature? If not, then you can't make the comparison. The 0/40 oil is very unstable with temperature deviations, even 10 degrees is normal to lose .5 bar oil pressure when OT is over 200F. Also, the factory pressure gauge is marginal at best, and to gain any real back to back differences requires an instrument with much greater accuracy, as a stand alone unit.

Thanks Jake, interesting to know. The comparison was made in relatively the same outside temp. Just with the standard cluster gauge so not totally accurate data. Just curious that I have seen the pressure at 5 but with the new style filter was a constant 4.5. I think BADTAG noticed this as well? Is this just the way it's supposed to be? On the plus side my old filter didn't have any shiny things in it

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Ambient temperature, and coolant temperature both are part of the equation that make up oil temperature, but they don't make a 1:1 impact. To compare the oil pressure differences you'd need the same oil temperature, and ultimately the exact same oil. (Without an oil change).

Thanks Jake, I'll keep an eye on it it is a very good looking part too

Dan - sounds the same as my experience. When I first installed the adapter and used a Napa filter I was concerned with the pressure difference. I called LN and was told this was due to the lack of the bypass valve as Jake mentioned. This pretty much stayed the same when I put the K&P Filter on as well so its definitely due to the adapter and not filter dependant. I am going on 3 year and 30,000mi now with no issues so if there was cause for concern it would have happened by now

Thanks BADTAG good to hear

@Jake, last question I promise... Does the addition of the spin on filter change the oil quantity required to fill? Have just found that my oil is displaying beyond the max on the display and 2mm above max on my dipstick (this was post a main dealer service).

I don't think there is a significant reduction in oil quantity between the original and the spin on - at least there isn't on mine. Over filling with oil from the OPC is not unusual - when they (or you) check the level after the car has been sitting for 15 minutes the dipstick and readout indicates full. After an overnight wait, about another 500ml accumulates in the sump from the rest of the engine. You may have to empty the oil filter to get the correct level.....I wouldn't recommend running too far with more than the indicated max level on the dipstick.

Thanks, so far I've only done a few short trips but planning to go back to the dealership for them to sort it out. I also have a feeling they put my wheel bolts on too tight because I couldn't get them off with my 650mm breaker bar!

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v let me guess.. the car sat for a couple of days and the oil level crept up as you have mentioned? The spin on filter can change volume slightly, based on which filter is used.. some are smaller or larger than the factory canister. No comment about a car as old as a 996 going to the dealership for an oil change... That said, it looks like the quality of K&N filters have changed as of late. We noticed this past week when doing a normal service on one of our customer's engines that's local. When I cut the filter open the entire bottom 1/4 of the filter was filled with glue that's used to assemble the filter element. Never seen this before, and it could explain the lower oil pressure that a couple of you guys have noticed. All that glue can restrict flow, which can lead to a slightly lower oil pressure. I typically won't use any filter other than the Napa Gold, but last time this customer changed his own oil. People amaze me. They will avoid following directives, just to buy a name. Unfortunately, marketing crap does work. One of you you guys should change the filter away from the K&N, to see if the pressure gets a little better, and closer to what you had before. If so, then you tipped me off to a change in a product that we didn't consider, since we seldom use the K&N. Use the Napa Gold filter. Just freaking do it!

Thanks for the reply Jake, I used a Napa gold as I was able to get a hold of one. Unfortunately I'm yet to find a specialist in Melbourne who does good work and is near me.

This will make Jake happier, although I also get the dealer to change the oil for me .... We only have one other (very?) competent Porsche garage in Wellington - not a lot of choices really

Pics or it didn't happen!

Not yet, the 6 month mark is in Dec - gotta make book the car in with the only OPC in town.

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Haha all good, was referring to my filter not being a k&n!

Guys I never really got an answer on this, with the SOFA and specifically a Napa gold filter what is the correct oil replacement volume not including filling the filter itself. Reason I ask is I need to be quite specific with oil volume with the dealership next service if im going to continue using it they've slightly overfilled this time round and I have to go back so they correct the level. Unfortunately I've had very bad experiences with independents/specialists. Here in Australia a dealer stamped book looks better than a book full of independents. Just the way it is here...

The dealer simply did not take the time to properly fill the engine oil. You can't just dump in the "prescribed" amount. We typically add 8.5 quarts at a service at once, then we top it off from there with what the engine needs, adding oil until the indicator gets to the center. We then fire the engine up, and let it warm up completely, then shut it down and wait for the level to settle. It is only at this time that you can top off the level accurately.

Thanks Jake, i'm taking it back this week for them to correct the level. Manual says each bar is 0.2l so theoretically (if my gauge is working) 800ml (0.8l) would need to be removed for the level to be in "the middle". I've stopped driving it until the oil level is corrected, ill still need to get it back though hoping this wont cause any issues. I could get it flat bedded as I have roadside assistance but I think its overkill? Thoughts?

So drove to the dealer and they removed 200ml of oil bringing the level back down to max. Incidentally i did see the oil pressure at 5 on the drive there, ambient temperature was 11 degrees Celsius. Can confirm I am happy with the SOFA and nappa gold filter (will only be using these from now on) Happy days

Not completely on topic with my starting post. But it seems a bunch of Spin-on adapter experts are following this thread ... I noticed that my oil pressure gauge shows some wobbly readings during driving. When the engine is warm and idling I have always a steady pressure of around 1.5-1.7 depending on the previous load applied. Driving around it adds around 0.8-1.0 bar of oil pressure per 1k rpm. So around 3k rpm I will have an oil pressure somewhere between 4.0-4.5 bar. I recently noticed that when driving at a steady speed i.e. 3k rpm I see the oil pressure jumping up and down a little bit, i.e. going up and down irregular between 4.2 and 4.4. Is this normal? Is this caused by the spin on oil filter I am using, no more bypass? I have the K&N 1007 installed. Before installing the adapter and spin on filter I did not notice such behavior. Oil pressure sensor was replaced at the beginninge of this year, 5k miles ago.

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No, not caused by the spin on oil filter adapter or full flow filter. Next oil change, replaced the oil pump relief spring and valve with the upgraded versions. At steady RPM the oil pressure does not/should not float around. Mine doesn't. I know you changed the sensor, but that could be faulty right out of the box.

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Ah thanks for this. I've been wondering how to keep the needle less bouncy.

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At idle the oil pressure is rock solid on the meter, only during driving it sometimes happens that it bounces/wobbles 0.1-0.2 bar up and down. Not always. Thanks a lot. Great to have guru knowledge at hand here I will order them already. Where do I find the correct part numbers for the spring and valve/piston? Or do I have to look into the 997 inventory? I probably need also a new ring to seal? Edit: Found it 997.107.125.01 piston 996.107.127.53 spring 996.107.123.50 gasket

I just did my first little run after a long winter nap! (996 MkII, same 0W40 as previous, only fresh) Temps were around 10C. With my new spin on adaptor and Napa Gold filter, on startup, oil pressure was right up to almost 5 bar. After about 30 mins of driving pressure seemed high compared to previous (before spin on). At 3000 rpm (and pretty much anything above idle), I see a pretty steady and consistent 4.5 bar. At idle, this drops to just below 3 bar. I also had my pan off over the winter for inspection, and all was clear. No debris on pump screen or in pan.

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Mine behaved very much the same, explanation I got was the outside temperature plays a factor. Have had mine for 2k now with no issues.

What does the pressure meter tells you after 1hr of driving? Could be that 30mins is not enough to bring the oil up to operating temperature. Coolant temperature is around 180F?

On a cold day it takes 20 plus minutes of driving to bring the oil up to temp in my 997.2. The 996 has even more oil so I bet it takes 30 min for oil to get warm

I suppose the warm-up of the 997.2 is further optimised to meet the ever further restrictive emission demands put on the car industry ... so comparing it with the 996 which is an almost 10yr older car is not a perfect assumption. But indeed 30 mins should normally have warmed up the car considerably. See the logs in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/882942 To give you an idea; after I drive my 996.2 30 mins the pressure at idle is around 2 bars. When the engine is fully warmed up the pressure at idle is 1.5, when the car is hot the pressure is 1.3. Just below 3 bar after 30mins is indeed a bit high. How does the coolant temperature evolves over time after cold start. Maybe your oil pressure sender went bad

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Actually , I continued on for a little more than an hour with no appreciable differences

Put an external oil pressure gauge of known accuracy on the car and that will tell you if the pressure is really that high as in the dash meter. If no, replace the pressure sender. They seem to go bad quite a lot. Maybe clean/check/replace the oil pressure relief valve. If the problem still persists, then you have to dig deeper.

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Went to my local NAPA store picked up a 1/2 dozen, best advice to go with these filters.

I just did my first oil change on an 06 Cayman S which had the LN Engineering spin-on filter adapter installed. Upon inspecting the Wix 51042 oil filter (Napa 1042 is rebranded version of Wix) , I noticed the filter element was less than 2" tall vs the stock element which is 4.25" tall. (pic below). My concern is that the smaller filter element will create a higher pressure drop from the input side of the oil filter to the output side, which may cause the bypass path in the spin-on filter to be activated, and may actually provide less pressure to moving parts than the stock filter. The filter is listed as not having a bypass path, but it does have a spring at the bottom, and it looks to me that if the pressure at the top of the filter is large enough, the whole filter element will move down and open a bypass - maybe this is a fail safe mechanism? The Wix site is a little clunky but filled with great info ( https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx ). Through it, I was able to search for a taller filter with the same thread size (13/16-16) and diameter (2.921") and found this one: 51522 which is 4.526" tall vs the 51042 which is 3.404" tall. I'll do some more measurements under the car to ensure there is enough room such that the bottom of the oil filter is above the oil pan. My car also has a deeper oil pan, so I think the extra 1.1" should be OK. I think it would be reasonable to assume that the extra 1.1" will translate to an extra 1.1" of filter element height - which would essentially increase the filter element from 2" to ~3" - a welcome 50% increase. The other tid bit I found today was Wix has two versions of their oil filters: Wix and Wix XP. The difference is in the filter element. I found a video that showed the filter element for Wix XP which was described as "cotton like with wire mesh" as compared to the Wix that came out of my car which is a cardboard based element. The actual examination of the Wix XP element is found at the ~18:25 minute mark of this vid: You Tube ...but the whole vid it is pretty interesting in that it shows how the various filters are built - the high end fram filters actually look pretty good. So, bottom line, after a few measurements (ensure filter will not become the low point, and that it is reasonably protected), I may be going with the Wix 51522XP filter. One last question for the experts - does anyone know the oil flow rate for these engines? Both the 51042 and the 51522 list their max flow rate as "9-11 GPM".

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The 51042 is specified for a 97-04 Corvette and was specifically chosen for this application for that reason. We also didn't want the filter to sit lower than the factory housing. There is over a decade of evidence to suggest this is a great pairing for the street when observing the 6 month or 5,000 mile interval we (and most others) recommend. I am not a fan of the Wix XP filter (Napa Platinum) as it's more restrictive than the Wix/Napa Gold. The Napa Gold 1042 / Wix 51042 is still the only filter we recommend. For those with the IMS Solution, the 1348 is approved and if you track the car and use our 2 quart deep sump, the Napa 1068 is about 1" longer (still doesn't sit below the sump) and track proven. You can run a longer filter, but just be aware of the burst strength (they are not all the same), some have finer micron media that are more restrictive, and others have bypass valves. Also, a longer filter that sits lower than the stock housing can make the filter the lowest spot on the engine.

Thanks for the response, I appreciate hearing directly from LN Engineering and the additional info on filter options. My intent in restarting this thread was to add to the knowledge base on this topic and learn more about the topic. IMO filter selection should be done based on engine design - that is, what is the required oil flow rate for the specific oil viscosity at hot and cold. The statement that the 51042 is used by 97-04 Corvette is not data based, and in fact the 51042 is applicable to all sorts of GM products ranging from 2.4L I4 Chevy Cavalier to 4.2L V6 GMC Envoy to 6.0L V8 Cadi Escalade, and yes the 6.0L Corvette. But I gotta believe there's a difference in oil flow requirement for a 6L V8 pushrod vs 3.4L H6 twin cam. I also don't know what oil viscosity was used in the Vette - but most cars of that era were *W30 which flows more freely than 0W40 hot. It is reassuring that there are 10yrs worth of road and track cars that have used the 51042 filter with no issues - so I feel OK running the 51042 as I'm doing currently. I'm looking at the next oil change where I'll install a magnetic oil plug and new filter - and that's where this discussion comes in since I'm planning on buying a case of filters and it makes sense to scrutinize the filter decision a bit more. I started a small table with the relevant specs - I've used data from the Wix site which is most readily available. All options are: 13/16-16 thread size, have anti-drain valve, and gasket with ID/OD of 2.43/2.734". The Napa 1068 filter is equivalent to Wix 51068 according to this site: https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51068.html So based on the above, it looks like the 51068 has a bypass valve and lower flow capacity, this makes me think the 51522 may be a better option since it is just a taller version of the 51042 and has a reasonable burst strength. I have yet to check that it does not become the low point of the engine area - and in fact I would not go to this filter unless it looks relatively well protected.

My best friend from High School has worked as a Oiler for big construction equipment for 30 years. They use Wix filters only.

If I hadn’t already installed the LN adapter I would seriously consider modifying the stock filter housing to eliminate the bypass as shown here. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...o-spin-on.html