Need to drop the motor......me gots questions

Well with the holidays upon us I have 2 blissful weeks off.....not so blissful but actually looking forward to it......I have to drop my motor. Something to do intermix but that is not what this post is about....except for how I clean the coolant lines out. Any and all pointers in getting me the removal is welcome. I have a lift and have been reading up on how to do this but I'm not sure if the motor can be dropped alone or does the transmission need to come with it? What say you?

68 views and no one has any thoughts? I'm not in the dark on this but a little light would be appreciated.

Hey SP. I just did this. Both out as a unit is easy. Some things I do are: Instead of removing clutch slave from trans, I disconnect the lower line fitting (not the top one). Im flushing system anyway so its easier for me. As I remove each piece, brace, etc, I put the mounting hardware right back in the hole to help keep up with them. You can remove mufflers first before drop for much more work room and visibility. A few other things too. Im about to re-install my engine/trans and there is really only two small containers of fasteners/nuts/bolts to keep up with. Lower the engine a few inches to help you get the PS lines, 3rd AC bolt (if your not going to disco AC lines), and a few other things. This is so easy to do, I would recommend it for your 60,000 mile service so you can easily change plugs, AOS/OVS, some seals, coolant lines, hoses, coolant tank, T-stat, oil cooler, IMSB, RMS, clutch, etc. all at the same time. To me it was worth the drop even if your only doing the AOS/OVS. Sorry your having engine problems again. Maybe you can give details about what your doing to help others. DONT get in a hurry, make notes, take some pics, and you will be fine!

I appreciate this type of input KK......thanks for that. No doubt it has been a tough year on my car. I have never dropped the motor before. How does the front of the tranny come loose? I guess once I have the underbody panels off it will be obvious. The intermix became evident this way.......a few weeks ago the oil pressure gauge was reading 1 bar low at cold start than would be at 2 bars when warm instead of 3 while driving. The car heat was not blowing as warm as it had. The gauge righted itself after a few days but then the temp light flickered at cold start. This meant coolant was low. When I went to add pcar coolant the reservoir looked like it had a dark yellow color to it. Stuck my finger in it and it was oil. I'll be draining the fluids tomorrow. Not sure if there is coolant in the oil. Dipstick looks fine. Any idea on how to flush the coolant lines?

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For C2 there is one metal bracket thet holds the transmission. I found it easyer to remove the whole bracket. Well it's much easyer to instal the transmission with the bracket. Not sure how to remove the driveshaft, your's is c4 right? Flush the whole system when you have the leak fixed and everything put back to gether. Use some radiator cleaner, or if that wont work, some solvent free degreacer. Just make sure that you use rubber friendly cleaners. For the clutch slave, remove it last. Drop the engine and transmission little to make more room. Bleeding the cluch is PIA... Check the thread that was posted about leaking ps lines. Good pointer's how to get the lines off. Mine was very tight and the space is limited. Dropping the engine and transmission is very easy diy. It's well engineer'd package.

This might allso intrest you. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=86454

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Thanks for this ......I missed this thread. All good information.

I plan to use this to flush the lines when I replace my wp in the spring... maybe it helps you. search in the 996 forum for "Simple 3-step complete coolant drain (updated w/ refill procedure + water pump tips)" as I can't get a linky for some reason... GL!

Do a search on threads started by Dharn55. He had an intermix issue and posted a lot of great information on solving the problem himself and working through the issues related to this failure. -Shawn

I have been boning up on this. The car is up in the air. Need to go to DWS964's house...4 houses down from me and get his ATV lift.

I got this to flush out the heater core on my wife's car: OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Amazon.com : Automotive OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Amazon.com : Automotive It'll probably work well for you, too.

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Thanks Van.....looks like I could flush the system with this and with the motor out while it is being fixed.

Hey Pete good luck to you, hope your efforts all pan out.

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Steve! Hope all is well. I pulled the bumper and heat shields last night....in between a couple Bourbon's . I'm sure all will be fine. The motor is going to the best place I can think of for repair. I bought some very low mile (20K miles) front axles awhile back....my CV boots had been torn for some time. This is good time to dig into that too. Thankfully I have a used up truck that is getting me around town. Funny how people don't think I'm cool driving a 218K mile rusted Dodge Ram 1500. Happy Festivus!

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Yeah, keeping the '02 Mommy-mobile RX300 around for "those special times". Real head-turner... Nice garage, Pete! TC

Thanks Tim......we lucked out when we found this house 7 years ago. The 3 car garage with high ceilings had me sold before I walked in the house.

I have dropped motors 2 times, once on my car and once on a donor car. I would recommend dropping the engine/ transmission and exhaust as one piece. It was pretty easy and then you can separate them if you need to. Why take off the exhaust and risk a broken bolt when you don't really need the exhaust off? I used a motorcycle jack under engine and a 3 ton car jack under the main transmission mount and it worked great. Good luck!

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+996, I'm jealous. With those ceilings, I'm surprised you don't have cars stacked. But you're probably not a hoarder like me judging by your clean garage. Best of luck and at least you have a lift. If I had a garage like that with a lift, I might be tempted to drop the motor and do a KK cleaning program....NOT!

So why the intermix? Hopefully it's an AOS failure or oil coolers failure, which are easy to fix. Otherwise, it's probably a cracked head.

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That is the $64,000 question. The motor was a transplant after the original motor let go at a track day. I put a new oil cooler and AOS installed. Bought the parts from Pelican. This was 9000 miles ago. Stay tuned

With engine in the car, you can take out the plugs. If you see a plug that is especially Clean, that would indicate a cracked head, blown head gasket. If the plugs look good, pressurize the cooling system and put a small tube into the spark plug hole into the cylinder and listen for hissing, if you hear a hiss, that cylinder is bad.

Been draining fluids today. Thanks to Ashai for the coolant DIY. Heading out of town for a few days.....but the coolant is bit oily. The oil looked good. No milkshake yet.

Pete, thanks for keeping us informed of you progress. I am about to tackle the same task on my '00 C4 Cab. The flushing is going to be challenging. Nearly everyone that I have spoken with states that you have to remove all the lines and clean them individually. I am not so sure. I would like to see a diagram showing the coolant flow. As yours is a C4 as well, with 3 rads, it will be the same, with minor variations between '99 and '00. It seems to me that one could use the flushing tool shown above (which looks great by the way!) and clear out the worst of the goo and then add radiator cleaner or Dawn to the mix and really get it clean from there. I was planning to use a rain barrel to hold all the gallons of contaminated coolant. Anyone have a coolant diagram that shows the flow through all the circuits? TIA. Aloha from Maui, TomF

SP, that looks really bad. Have you found the problem yet?

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I think that he is showing a pic of the oil, not the coolant... I hope so anyway! Cheers, TomF

That pic was the coolant...I'm in upper WI at the moment. Heading home tomorrow. I still have to get the coolant out of the front rads. The good news is I don't see any thick butter milkshake yet. I'm thinking I caught it early. Stay tuned.

Whew! If that is the coolant, there is more than a simple crack in the head...I agree that it is great that it is not turned to milkshake yet. You should see what my coolant looks like. It looks like a mocha shake. Car is just sitting, waiting for me to have the time to tackle the project. Keep us posted. Cheers, TomF

Do yourself a HUGE favor and have the cooling system flushed ASAP. We see intermix cars here almost weekly and the ones that have sat this way need EVERY hose in the cooling system replaced. The petroleum in the engine oil creates a mocha that tears the hoses apart from the inside out. I have seen the horse become so compromised that you could literally take your bare hands and tear the hoses in half, they were that soft from the exposure to engine oil. All it takes is 6 months, and trust me, you don't want to see the task list associated with changing every coolant hose in the car. Even if you don't plan to repair the engine anytime soon, at least flush the system.

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This bit of info, about hose damage,... 5 years ago from Jake, was the final straw to make me sell my intermixed 996

These are the things that people don't know or consider about intermix, unless they have experienced it. It doesn't just happen to Porsches, the first time I experienced it was with a Chevrolet 350 that had a blown head gasket and sat or a year before I had a chance to repair it. The difference was about 2,500.00 worth of hoses and 2-3 days of labor.

Great tip Jake. I will get to flushing them out shortly. As of a couple of weeks ago, the hoses seemed to be sound and solid. I am still looking for a diagram on the cooling system flow... does anyone have one handy? TIA Cheers, TomF

Tom...this isn't very detailed, but is this what you're looking for?

Its also very confusing.. Its a layout, not a configuration and is marginal at best.

Nymart- thanks, that actually helps a lot. It fills in some missing pieces for me. I am trying to sort out a simpler way of cleaning the cooling lines and radiators. I recognize that there may not be anything simple about it, but I am giving it a try. Thanks again. Cheers, TomF

A water heater and a few bottles of shout are your friend.. You must have hot water to break the grime away from the rubber hoses. If you pull the main lines at the engine and flush both directions you will get the majority of the system. The bypass lines also hold a lot of grime and you can purge them as well. Basically blasting heavy concentrations of shout mixed with distilled water as hot as you can get it through every hose that connects to the engine will do it. Intermix also kills the diaphragm at the top of the reservoir and also the coolant cap. It's imperative that you turn the ignition on and open the heater valve by turning the temp up all the way and the fan on high. Otherwise you won't get any of the purge through the heater core. Failed heater cores following intermix are common. Flush hot water without detergent through the system till it comes out clean, else the detergent will also not do you any favors if left in the system. It's common to have 55 gallons of waste become generated by this and no one wants it... We have to pay a chunk to have the nastiness hauled off because the guys that take waste oil consider it coolant and the guys that take waste coolant consider it oil.

Jake...how can I do that? Use the flush gizmo Van suggested?

Yours is so light and the engine will be back in so fast that you can just use my shout trick when the engine is reinstalled... No worries:-)

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Good deal.....thanks partner!

Tough to see you going through this after dropping a new engine in Pete. Hope its a quick fix to get the car back on the road again.

Hey SP, dont leave us in suspense. WHAT HAPPENED TO YOUR ENGINE?????? (please)

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Just been taking my time at it. Just got back from the Frozen Tundra (GO PACK) last night after 4 days. 1200 mile round trip.....-8 with a windchill of -25. I have another week off so I'm planning on finally getting it out and onto a pallet and off to Jake. I'm in good hands. A question for you....how do you remove the drive shaft from the tranny? But the braces are in the way. Is it the bolts at the front of the transmission?

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Thanks Chao...2014 will be better

With trans supported, remove brackets out of the way. You only need to remove 3 of the bolts from the guibo/shaft connection. Lower shaft then carefully pull out of front dif. And you sir are crazy to brave such cold temps.

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Hi Jake, Thanks for this. I really appreciate the tips. Is it possible to use tap water to flush the system and then refill with distilled water? I have on demand hot water in my garage and this would be much simpler...thoughts? Best, TomF

Tap water will try to foam up the shout a lot more.. That's all.. Turn the temp on that water heater T stat wide open before you start :-) But carry all of this out at your own risk:-)

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Thanks Jake, that's what I thought. I have an on-demand hot water system in the garage and it can be cranked up to 128 degrees... ...at my own risk, of course! I work with 3600 attorneys, so I understand about risk...;-) Cheers, TomF

Glad you have an extra week to get your engine out Pete. Sounds like you are shipping it to Ga. Hope all improves for you and your P car in 2014. Is your garage heated?

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The extra week is great......never took 2 weeks at one time. The garage is heated. I added an electric heater last year. The temp is set at 55 but I bump it up in the 60's when I'm in there for a decent amount of time. Yup the motor is going to GA. The replacement motor came from Jake and he is standing by his product no questions asked. He is also taking care of the freight. Now THAT is service! For those curious, the motor is stock. All worn items were replaced with new by Flat 6 before I bought it. I have completed the "honey do" list and now onto the "get the motor out of the car". As Shark Attack said......I'm goin' in.

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Godspeed...

And it didn't even have a warranty... In fact it was specifically sold without one, and that was 9k miles ago :-)

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Yep all is accurate. Thanks for going over and beyond on this

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You did your part.. I'll do mine. :-)

Ok....never knew I had wireless in the garage. Finished up the coolant, transmission and oil drains. The front rads had a little bit of oil. The holding tank had the bulk of it. The rear bumper and heat shields are off. That took 10 minutes.....really. Now to start unbolting stuff. It is also time for a cigar....it is News Years Eve after all plus I can multi task.

What is the trick to getting the 3rd bolt (the one between the intake manifold) on the air compressor? I can feel it. Using a knuckle and long 13 mm socket with extension.

SP, carefully remove the engine comp. temp sensor and grommet from between the runners. The bolt head is almost a straight shot down between the intake runners. You may or may not need a swivel at the end of a long extension. A 1/4 drive setup makes it easier to reach and get on but may not be tough enough depending on how tight the bolt is. Its a 13MM bolt head if IRCC. Im assuming the PS res. is off by now? You can barely see the bolt head by looking through this area. Also easier with engine cover removed. The bolt may not come all the way out. It will probably be stopped by an AC line. Last resort is to remove the the TB and front plenum. You can easily see and feel the bolt with these removed.

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The GROMMET! Good tip. Off to the Advance to get some assortments of extensions. Need a 4" or 6". The ones I don't have go figure. And yep the PS res is out.

Air compressor out. Removing the grommet from temp sensor and a 5" extension did the trick. BTW the Black Stripes provide good motivation for doing this work.

That is all for today. Tomorrow is underneath the car removing the sway, tranny and engine braces and the rear half shafts. Pelican really has a great DIY. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ngine_Drop.htm Its New Years Eve and it is time to imbibe

Well worked on the underside today. Removed both cross and diagonal braces under the motor, all water hoses, cable shifter connections, sway bar and mufflers. I stopped after I realized I didn't have anything in the garage to support the tranny with. Harbor Freight has got just what I need. I ordered both of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ack-69685.html http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...730-10041.html I borrowed my buddy's (DSW964 The owner of Ferd's old car) ATV lift but I think these will work in tandem better. Couple observations so far....when you think you have drained all of the coolant out think again. Those hoses sneaky. Be careful when pulling the hoses you might end up with anti-freeze all over your person. Everyday mechanics have got have some of the strongest hands....mine are killing me. Still need to remove the power steering lines, clutch slave cylinder and the drive shaft (the car is a C4). Hopefully lowering the motor a tad will help in removing these last parts. The bad part is I'm out of town again tomorrow thru Sunday and will chip away it next week.

Just let Jud know when you have it out and he'll get it shipped :-) Make sure you drain the oil.. But get me a sample first :-)

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Hey Guys, I'm going to be dropping mine soon as well for a new AOS and this has been great (first time for a Porsche). Not to take this off topic, what is a OVS?

Well boy and girls.......after a few weeks away from the car, an 11" snow storm, loss of electricity for 3 days (the house was 34F when the power came back BRRRR) and the help of some Harbor Freight items the motor is out! The power steering lines are easy when you lower the motor a bit. I decided to take the line out from the clutch slave instead of taking the whole thing out. Found my transmission mounts are in bad shape and need replacing. I have to agree with many that pulling motor is not that bad provided you have the right means of doing so. And now for the pat on the back pics. I need to remove the tranny and find a pallet for shipping to Flat 6.

^^ Congrats! Looks good and i want to do this just for the sake of refreshing the entire motor. I might do it when i get up there in mileage or in a few years. No better feeling than putting a fresh motor back into a car

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Thanks....doing this was a good confidence builder.

Great job and look how cool it was to DIY!

But now you need to put it BACK IN.

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Exactly.....knowing me I'll have some stuff left over.

Make sure you allow an additional week to detail the heck out of it per KK before putting it back in. According to KK, dirty parts can make your engine explode.

Alpy, lol. I bet Jake ships it back spotless.

I finally separated the tranny from the motor. Had a bit of a learning experience...One bolt appeared to be a socket head cap screw with an allen drive.....atleast that is what my fingers told me. My fingers lied to me and I almost stripped the head. The head is a 12 point 8mm. I put a dab of this on the socket. It added a little abrasive to help the 12 pt bit from slipping. http://www.google.com/imgres?sa=X&bi...tart=0&ndsp=14 Need to build a crate and off she goes.

And the mystery will soon be solved...great thread, appreciate the updates SP! 2003 Carrera 4S Speed Yellow / 1955 356 Continental 1500 Rust Red

In a few days queue the theme to "Rocky"!

Just read the thread for the first time. Great job. Does the Rocky music mean the engine is on its way back?

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Yup! hope to have it this coming week. I need to get crackin' on some other things......I have new rotors, change out the front axles and the tranny mounts with the inserts, tarett front and rear drop links and a rear GT3 sway with a H&R front sway for my C4. This is all quick stuff to do. Stay tuned!

Holy Moly Pete! Quite a winter project you got for yourself. It'll be real nice to hear her once she is all buttoned up and back on the road.......Spring is coming, so they say....more f'in snow this week????? Kinda depressing.... So, how is the inventory for scotch and cigars.......I know they they are not in the manual anywhere, but make sure you have enough to make it through to the end......GL!

You HAVE been busy Pete. Share some pics of all your upgrades so we can also become motivated. Glad to hear your project is alive.

Been a LONG winter no doubt.....one benefit of not having a running car for the past 3 months is no salt to clean off the car. Too many a night has been spent smoking a cigar with a glass of Woodford in the garage imagining driving thru the twisties, blippin' and shiftin' and hearing the BRAWWWP of the motor. Just got goose bumps writing that. With the word my motor is crated and heading my way soon I ordered coolant, power steering and gear oil. Got it from here http://www.europaparts.com/ Also ordered the UView 550000 Airlift for filling the coolant. Got that off of Amazon. And as if not spending enough cash yesterday I went to a sidewalk sale at my local man store (Harbor Freight) and picked up a 26 gal air compressor....I had been using a small pancake compressor and the rate of regeneration was driving me nuts. Changing the rotors should take a few hours tops. I have done this before. This time around I went with Sebro Sport slotted rotors. As for front half shafts I bought lightly used ones from http://stores.ebay.com/qualityporscheparts/ Take a peek at the store. No affiliation. Several good buys. All of this is a breeze being fortunate enough to have a lift. Now I just need to get into the right frame of mind

Just curious. What was wrong with the motor. Sorry if it was stated somewhere else and I missed it. The was an intermix issue, but what was the diagnosis and fix?

Cracked head.. Out if the blue, never cracked before. Cause? Casting defect, too much core shift. The fix? We repaired it like 5 more since the first of this year.

Yep like Jake said it was a cracked head. I'm really looking forward to getting it back in the car. To those that are just reading this for first time my original motor with 121K miles went last April during a DE. Oil starvation and track tires were factors. I was calling both coasts to get a solution to my issue. I called Jake and he proceeded to tell me exactly how my car felt when it went.....to a tee. This car is my daily driver and the waiting list for repairing my motor was putting me in December. I ended up with a perfectly running "stock" 3.4 motor w/ 48K miles that he had removed from car that had a complete engine swap. The motor was not rebuilt however some stock internal parts were replaced because they were worn from normal use. Jake also put a new water pump on it and did the LN IMS replacement. I have added the FVD deep sump pan, a 160 thermostat, new AOS and new oil cooler. And yes I knowingly bought the motor without a warranty. I have also run the recommended oils. I would have loved to have gone the big bore nickies rebuild route but it just was not in the cards. Stay tuned for that Rocky theme

Alright, Alright, Alright......the motor was delivered this past Friday. Haven't gotten into putting it back yet. Thanks Jake. Pcar motor tranny 008.jpg The reason I haven't put it back yet is because my tranny mount is bad. To replace it the transmission needs to be out. I took a sawzall and cut through the rubber inside the mount. I then take the same saw and carefully cut the metal ring that the mount is in. A couple pokes with a screw driver and out she came. Now to put the new mount in...if you don't have a shop press you need to find a place that does. This is the only way to get it back in. Pcar motor tranny 005.jpg Pcar motor tranny 006.jpg Pcar motor tranny 007.jpg

Wow: Exciting to watch this whole process. When you "git R done" she should be as good as new. All this should be good for at least .5 second better lap times, right?

No doubt on the laptime but the driver may be a little rusty....The motor came back to me spotless as the K'ster would have said. I found a place that has a shop press and the mount goes in tomorrow. I'm trying to source the 12 point bolt that is toward the bottom of the bell housing. I kinda stripped the head taking it out. Its a 10mm but what is the material? Dunno. Anybody?

This past weekend the motor is back where it belongs.....IN THE CAR! All hoses are back in, the 2 wire harness plugs were the simplest thing to do, PS lines are together those are buggers to get tight. All connections on the top are done. I installed the Function First tranny insert. I used some dish soap on the insert to make it slippery when putting the transmission supports in. It kept binding otherwise. A question I have is what are ft lbs torque value for the half shaft axles bolts going into the transmission? I have been chipping away at this and look to be back on the road in a few days.

81 Nm

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Yes and thanks! I torqued it to 60 ft lbs or 81 NM.

Interesting. Is there a foolproof way to insert the new engine mount at the correct angle? If you need to press it in, I guess it won't rotate in the correct position during re-installation in the car...

I think you are confusing the engine mount with the transmission mount. Engine mount = easy. Transmission mount = a lot more work. For alignment I used a black marker to note the top center of the mount. The flat portion of the mount is the top side. Then I marked the center point of the transmission housing. This is pic with the new mount installed.

Yes, transmission mount! Sorry. Fab

Alright guys........UPDATE The motor has been in the car for a about a Month. Lessons learned. 1. Don't pull the motor with a low amount of gas in the tank. 2. Seal the gas lines that you removed from the motor. 3. If you don't have a lift and are thinking of removing your motor think twice about doing it. 4. Read Ashi's DYI on coolant change and get a Airlift. Saved me a ton of time. 5. If the coolant hoses look suspect just replace them now......while the coolant is out. Trust me on this one. It has taken some time to sort the motor out and its still not running tip top. Main problem has been due to items 1 and 2 above. From mis fires on #5 leading to a bad fouled plug to changing new plugs and coil packs. It is looking like #5 lost ring seal. Smoke at start up and a fairly good amount of oil being consumed. Next item to replace is the injector at #5 with new plug and coil. Will change to some break in oil to help get the ring seal back. Jake Raby has been there all the way to get me through this corresponding usually on weekend days and nights. I don't know many people that would do that...actually I don't know any. Together we are chipping away at it eliminating reasons / causes for the lack of engine performance but we are getting real close. If you remember I bought the motor without a warranty, he fixed the cracked head on his dime and he still has not walked away....and don't expect him to either. Stay tuned.

Hi Pete, Can you please elaborate on what bad things will happen for 1) and 2) and how they affect cylinder #5? Kudos to Jake for fixing the cracked head on his dime. Hope you get the engine back to its top shape soon.

Mainly the gas went bad and crud from the bottom of the tank buggered one of the injectors. Seafoam corrected most but not the one at #5.

Well time to close the loop on this......the reason for the mis-fires was not bad gas. I changed injectors, coil packs and spark plugs. After a 45 minute drive with a new plug the car would loose power and back fire. The motor also consumed oil. Long story short the car went to Flat6 mid-June. The true issue was that a void within the head casting was found. The void created a crack that linked an oil passage to an intake on cylinder 5....same cylinder that kept fouling spark plugs. A newer head was matched to the motor and was driven for 300 test miles in the Georgia mountains. No oil consumption! The car was delivered back to me this past Thursday night. It's been 7 months since I have driven the car the way it wants to be driven. A drive yesterday through Southern Indiana country was fantastic. One word...SCHWING! The car at higher RPM's seems to have some new zip or snap that did not exist before. Both heads were milled down a few thousandths is the only reason I can think of the extra giddy up. I also kind of forgot how well the car handles with the X74 suspension, adjustable sways and drop links. Now no commercial here......deserved props to Jake and Jud at Flat6. Great guys to work with. The car is running great but I'm torn even thinking this.......I think I'm wanting more cowbell.

Wow, 7 months, that was a long wait but I'm sure it's worth it. Congrats and enjoy it in good health!

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For clarification: Pete decided to ship the car to me on a Thursday. The car was picked up two days later and delivered to me the following day. I diagnosed the issue within two days, tore the engine apart and in less than 4 days the engine was back together again. I spent two weeks testing the engine post- process and the car was shipped back to Pete. From start to finish this was a 3 week turnaround at my facility. Thats a record. And I paid the invoice. In full. I even paid for return shipping to Pete. And to think, he used to be a Raby Rennlist hater, too. When he bought the engine a couple years back I told him he was lucky he didn't tell me who he was until after the transaction was over, else I wouldn't have even sold it to him… Fast forward a while and I can say that he has been great to work with.

Thanks Ashai....driving it whenever I can. The 7 months was mainly on my end.......bad winter and that damn thing called work getting in the way. Also Jake is correct about the RL hater.....good thing is people change.......me being one during adverse situations.

Pete: Welcome back. Glad it all worked out. Kudo's to Jake and Co., for stepping up, a real "mench," IMHO...... As for more cowbell........you thinking GT3?????? whats on the radar screen???? In the mean time, enjoy the miles and the smiles!!!

Oh man I don't know. I have been lurking at the 996 TT's lately, well for a while. My car has 133k on the body with 35k on the suspension and 58k on the motor. It doesn't look, feel or drive like a car with 133k miles on it.

The 996 turbo has way more head snap than a Carrera. Finally acceleration matches braking. 2002 Turbo - Basalt Black Metallic / 2003 Carrera 4S - Speed Yellow / 1955 356 Continental 1500 - Rust Red

So nice to hear you have your Porsche back on the road, running better than ever. You have put a lot of time, effort, and $ into your 996 and now you'll be able to drive it on the road and track. Glad you had a happy ending Pete, and nice to hear how well you were treated at Flat 6. Now, about more cowbell...

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Thanks Steve......so I guess there are two types of happy endings

You better believe it Pete!

Congrats Pete and glad to hear that you can enjoy the ride again. I guess you got lucky in buying a used motor as far as timing goes. 3 weeks(or 7 months, depending on how you look at it) vs. 9+ months for a new one. As for Jakes service, nothing surprising there. A couple things no one can dispute here is his service and Porsche motor knowledge.

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Made a typo......the motor actually has around 10K on it. Jake came across it with 48K. He opened it up and replaced all worn items with stock. That said the car is going up for sale very soon, I need to sit back and create the listing this week. The search for more cowbell has begun!

So Pete, your Porsche will soon be on the market...what will be your next car? Sticking with a Porsche I would think, TT or GT3? You can't leave us hanging Pete, inquiring minds want to know.

Great to hear its all fixed SP! Im sure its been a trying experience but but look at the knowledge you gained about your car. Bet you wouldnt think twice about doing your own build next time.

Damn after all that? Well at least the next owner is gonna get a nice ride. Please keep us updated. BTW, did I hear more cowbell?

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Yep...the car is pretty well balanced with a fresh stock motor that pulled 254 RWHP on Jake's dyno. I went to this calculator to see what that meant vs HP at the crank. I found this online http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php its a guesstimator at best showing 307 HP....so someone is going to be a happy new owner. But the call for more Bovine whistle is blowing........I'm from WI so I have a million cow sayings....I'm in the middle of purchasing a xxxx that will have a x.x in it. I don't want to hex this so more info will come in due time.

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Ok, let the guessing wars begin. xxxx = 997s x.x = 3.8 ?

Come on Pete, it's already been a couple of hours. Is it a Porsche? At least answer that.

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Does a bear crap in the woods? Is the Pope Hispanic? Do Polish people hang Christmas trees from the ceiling? Do da Bears still suck?

You had me worried for a bit Pete, but I think you answered my basic question. Thanks.

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yes Steve.....sticking with a Pcar. I'm buying a 997S and putting a 4.0 Mr Raby motor in it..actually I'm not doing it Jake is. The wait will be a while but well worth it. Now about finishing the ad for my car......anybody interested PM me.

After you compose your ad, tell me what kind of hp the 4.0 delivers along with a torque #. That sounds like an interesting package, can't wait to see the beast.

Pete, 997.1S or .2S? Gonna be a beast either way.

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I was close. Apparently the 3.8 doesn't give you enough cowbell, huh...

It will be a 997S.1 with the Sport Chrono Package. HP should be in the mid 380's with torque at 5K rpm of 295ish. This is going to be fun.

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I need a drooling emoticon!

Pete, can you tell us if this 997.1 S will have any aero parts adorning its flanks, and will you be tracking it like your current 911? Curious minds want to know...

Currently it does not have the Aerokit but the plan would be to add it right away. I have not been on the track for well over a year but plan to be back. It will be fun passing a GT3 for a change!

Pete--A friend in Zionsville is looking for a 996. Can you email me the info? [email removed] Thanks! TC

Pete should end up with plenty of power.. His Gen 7 FSI engine will create some stir if he decides to release the details.