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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHeadlight restoration
Leading reported evidence
Use 6" random orbit
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use a 6" random orbit with 1" of foam pad behind the sanding disc.
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Suggestion
Polishing is not necessary if you apply a new UV clear coat because the clear coat will fill any fine scratches from the 1500 and give them a smooth glass-like finish.
Leading evidence: 'Use 6" random orbit' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill any fine scratches' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For maintenance I use medium cut compound followed with
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have used both methods, hand sanding and the kits with orbital pads, the first time with the orbital sander gave me the same results (although less severe) as I was in a hurry.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I did angle it too much (although it's hard not to in the area where the two compound curves meet), I was distracted while doing it (talking with the construction crew for the new patio), I got impatient and went too fast, and I used a plain drill, not an orbital.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used the Sylvania headlight restoration kit I found on eBay.
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Fill any fine scratches
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Polishing is not necessary if you apply a new UV clear coat because the clear coat will fill any fine scratches from the 1500 and give them a smooth glass-like finish.
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Suggestion
Depending on what type of polishing compound and pad you use, you could get by using the DA sander as soon as 1200grit stage if you use an orange polishing pad with an aggressive cutting compound like Meguires 205 for example.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have used both methods, hand sanding and the kits with orbital pads, the first time with the orbital sander gave me the same results (although less severe) as I was in a hurry.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Tried the 3M kit to restore my headlights. First one went pretty well, although I bought another kit for more sandpaper (dumb, I know).
The second headlight did not go well. Wasn't paying attention and I think the speed control on my drill got bumped. Led to really deep scratches. I stopped working on it and took it to an autobody place that specializes in headlight repairs. They worked on it for a while but gave up. Didn't even charge me for their time!
So what are my options?
- Try another headlight expert? Who?
- Try it myself with more aggressive sandpaper? (Or are there any chemicals I can use to at least minimize the scratched-up look?)
- Wait a while until they go bad again and just replace it when prices go down some more?
Ideas?
tom
Pics would help but more aggressive sanding would probably do the trick, as long as there's no deep gouges going through majority of the depth of the lense.
When I did mine you have to remember it is going to look like a disaster before you actually polish them. It might just need some more work.
Halfway through mine I thought I had ruined them but magically it clears up and looks great when done.
Bust out the sandpaper. Depending on how deep the scratches are, will
determine what grit to use. for most surface moderate scratches wet sanding with 1500 will suffice. Then hit it with a rotary polisher, polishing foam pad and 3m Rubbing Compound. Then hit it with a polish compound using a polish foam pad.
It should be fine. Start with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 grit sand paper. Then polish with the headlight polishing compund. I prefer slower speeds on the polishing unit.
If it's the 3M kit I'm thinking of(they have a few lines) with the red packaging, I believe they have you start with a 500 grit pad so you'll most likely have to start with 400 and move your way up. Once you get to 1500grit, it's time to start polishing. You can use 2000 grit and wet sand but to me it's a waste of time if you have access to a polisher and some good polishing compound like M105.
Once again pics would be helpful for us to diagnose your situation.
Or... you can just order the "Wipe New" product out there and call it a day. LOL j/k
We offer a few kits that will help you out. The Osram/Sylvania seems to be the most popular one though. I would advise putting some Lamin-X over the headlights though once you get them cleared up though. For more information
Click Here
.
I started with 150 grit and an orbital sander and worked my way up through 3000 grit, then two different compounds.
For maintenance I use medium cut compound followed with
Diamondite
.
Start over again at the grit you were on when you damaged the headlights. Use that grit until you have sanded the gouges away. Then, start working your way back up. The thing to remember is to not move onto the next grit until you've sanded away all the scratches from the previous grit (meaning, don't move from 800 grit to 1000 grit until you've sanded away all the scratches from the 400 grit).
It's already been said, but sanding will get you back to like new. Orbital and progressive grits.
I've done a few of these and what I would do is start with 500 grit if necessary and work up to 1500, always
wet
sanding.
Polishing is not necessary if you apply a new UV clear coat because the clear coat will fill any fine scratches from the 1500 and give them a smooth glass-like finish.
It's going to take time, but it is fixable. For deep scratches, it can take me an hour or two, easy.
I used the Sylvania headlight restoration kit I found on eBay. Worked just fine and it comes with the UV clear coat. Saw a thread on the 997 forum seemed to work fine and was still clear after 7 months.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...storation.html
Sure you can find a good clear coat from another source though.
I had already tried another kit with orbital sanding pads and didn't like it. The plastic would get to hot. I really preferred sanding by hand. Not that much more effort for the added control.
Hope this helps.
This is what I used:
https://www.xpel.com/products/headli...&submodel=1544
Works great because it protects not only the UV issue but also is a film to protect the lens from breaking due to rocks or gravel.
Great info all around. I've been nervous about using the orbital or drill for this so I going the hand route at least to start with until I get a feel for how much needs to be taken off.
What has happened here is the friction from the orbital pad created heat and has melted the relatively soft plastic on the headlight. It's a common problem when using an orbital drill mounted pad like this. There are two three ways to avoid this from happening:
1 - set the drill to lower rpm's. Higher rotational speed create more heat. Go slow and take your time.
2 - have a constant low stream of water running over the headlights while sanding, this cools down the plastic as you go.
3 -don't use excessive force when pushing the orbital sander on the headlight. Too much pressure create even more heat and is overkill on this type of project.
I have used both methods, hand sanding and the kits with orbital pads, the first time with the orbital sander gave me the same results (although less severe) as I was in a hurry.
I found the hand sanding kits to be more effective. The amount of elbow grease needed is minimal and I found hand sanding to give more control over the whole process.
Good luck with getting them back to par but it shouldn't be too hard. I'd start with 800 grit water sanding by hand. (Make sure to get correct type of sandpaper) Take your time on the problem area, then once the area is cleaned up, move to 1500-2000 grit over the whole headlight and then the same with 3000 grit. All 3 using water sanding paper. You can purchase polishing pastes for plastic and then seal the deal with an anti-UV sealant.
I'm not sure which products are available in the US but I'm sure someone will chime in. Otherwise search the 996 and 997 forums, there's lots of great info already there!
Mikes
I found I couldnt really get too aggressive. Just avoid angling the orbiter etc.
I like the 1000 1500 2000 approach, finished off with polishing compound. The UV clear coat is a great idea tho
Wow, you guys nailed my mistakes perfectly! I did angle it too much (although it's hard not to in the area where the two compound curves meet), I was distracted while doing it (talking with the construction crew for the new patio), I got impatient and went too fast, and I used a plain drill, not an orbital.
I'll try the hand sanding wet to see if I can bring it back.
pordlanzer: What do you mean by "Make sure to get correct type of sandpaper"? Simply 800 grit wet?
I do have an orbital sander, but it's large and I don't think I could get enough finesse using it. What size orbital should I try?
Thanks for the help.
p.s. Is 1 grit just a big rock glued to some backing paper?
800 is not gonna do it on that type of scratch. You'll need a quality wet sandpaper like 3m and start with 400 or 500 grit at the least.
Do NOT use an orbital sander but do use a "random" orbital on your last couple finishing stages when you are ready to do 1200 grit on up. Depending on what type of polishing compound and pad you use, you could get by using the DA sander as soon as 1200grit stage if you use an orange polishing pad with an aggressive cutting compound like Meguires 205 for example. Otherwise, you'll have to take sanding to 1500 or 2000grit sanding until you can do the final polishing. Make sure to mask around the headlights.
