'99 C2 Noise from front right when parked, battery dead now

Hey folks, a bit stumped with something I experienced for the first time this week re: my new-to-me 996. My wife and I were on vacation last week and left the Porsche at home. I leave her parked outside right now as we're in the process of building a garage. The last week in NY has been super, super hot. When my mom came by to check on our cats, she noticed the 996 making a noise, sounding like it was running. On the phone with her, she was able to pinpoint that there was a fan-like noise coming from the front, passenger side of the vehicle. She came by again today and when I asked her to check on the car, she heard no noise but mentioned she couldn't pop the frunk, and then confirmed she couldn't start the car. Fortunately, doesn't seem like the battery is completely drained. I'm not home yet to jump the car and do some digging, but curious if folks had any thoughts they could arm me with before I start digging tomorrow when I'm home. Car has been sitting for about 9 days at this point Thanks all - happy Monday

Sounds like one of the cooling fans was running on the radiator , there is a heat sensor there aswel which kicks in the stage 2 fan when the car gets hot, wonder if the sun put enough heat into the front of the car for it to think it was overheating and start the fan , this would cause the noise and drain the battery if it was running for a while without the engine , but I would have thought it should be off with the ignition off, you could have a faulty ignition barrel maybe making the circuit live , just a guess , they can be a problem ? Maybe disconnect the battery if your leaving it for a while until you sort it ?

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Appreciate the thoughts Noz. I got into the car today, and today my surprise was able to get the car started first try. Things got weirder from here though. The trunk & engine lid releases are both still not working, and when I started the car, noticed the key fob red light was on. I replaced the battery in the fob which turned off the light on the dash, but the fob isn't locking/unlocking the car. This also means that my gas cap remains locked, and upon my trip to the gas station, discovered that the manual release tab in the passenger door isn't there? As if someone tried to use it and ripped it off Luckily had enough gas to get the car home, and leaving it parked while I mess with this. Where do I go from here? Take a look at the fuse panel with an altimeter and make sure everything's in good shape? Or is there a solenoid/sensor/something out there that's died on me

What did the voltage read? A low battery will cause all kinds of problems. Automotive batteries do not like to be discharged. How old is your battery? Second, check all the fuses. There is a reason that perhaps the right radiator fan was running. Third, the ignition switch also causes all sorts of problems. Replacing the electrical part of the ignition switch solves a lot of problems like this.

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Battery is about 2 years old. When I popped key into ignition, it was reading ~10 on voltage. I'm going to check the fuses tomorrow and order a new ignition switch just for the hell of it. Seems like an easy enough repair Re: the hood/trunk release & key, on a hunch, I felt the carpets under my seat to find they were soaked. So safe to say that my immobilizer went for a swim, so I guess I'll be pulling that and seeing how corroded it is before sending it off to someone to fix up. I suspect I'll need to clean the drains while I'm at it too.

You need to check your drains and replace your regulator it’s fried went through the same last week after my battery compartment was clogged same voltage issues also now fixed and dry rides nice again Mike

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Sorry Mike, what regulator are you referring to? I'm guessing I'll have to send the immobilizer out to be fixed based on what I've been able to find online & from chatting with my mechanic

I’m far from mechanical I pay big to have my cars serviced my tech told me it was a regulator that sends current to and from the alternator I think LOL Mike

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Thanks for the info guys. I'm currently sitting here waiting for some WD-40 to soak in so that I can get the Torx bolts on the seats out. Those things are jammed in there real hard & getting enough leverage is a pain I think my plan of attack from here is going to be to pull the immobilizer, open it up to look for corrosion & then let it dry before I plug it back in there on the off chance that it works. If it doesn't, probably take it to a local Porsche dealer for diagnosis before I send it out to be fixed up by someone like ECU Doctors. Can someone gut check me on that? Does that seem reasonable? Oh and pull apart the interior to clean those damn drains while I'm at it

Not sure the can or will do anything with the immobilizer out of the car. They need to plug into the obd2 and then read the module.

ECU doctors generally need the ECU, Immobilizer, and a working key to be able to test it. Not sure if other shops are the same way.

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Ah good point. I'll put it back in then if I go that route, but a bit nervous doing so unless I can figure out how to manually release the gas cap. Or I guess worst case get her towed Everything I've found so far needs the same. This is probably a dumb question, but can I close the top again after pulling the ECU out? I know if it needs to be in service position to access the ECU, but given that the car has to be parked outside right now, I can't leave the car like that. However, given what the inside of the immobilizer is looking like, I'm guessing an ECU Doctor type service is what I'm looking at here Inside of the immobilizer

I don�t think putting the top in the service position is always required. I think the ECU can be removed without doing that. Taking the drivers seat out is going to be hard - it�s really heavy. But it sounds like you already might have the immobilizer out, so that might not be an issue. If it is, you can probably remove the driver seat, then put the top up, then take the ECU out. One thing to be cautious about, though. Locking the car with the top up and without the ECU/Immobilizer might be an issue. In fact, the battery is supposed to be disconnected this whole time. And locking a car without a battery connected could be quite problematic in getting back into the car. So you might want to make sure you don�t lock the car.

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Got the seat out this afternoon after much WD-40 and elbow grease. I figured I need to get at the drains anyway to clean them, so I'm going to pull out all the seats in short order. It was definitely heavy, but not awful Forgive my ignorance, but from all the videos I've been able to find & from poking around the cab, I don't see any easy way to get at it from the interior. I hear you on the battery piece though, which I'd ignored since I can't open the trunk. I'll see if I can rectify that by accessing the manual release, but pulling the battery also seems counterproductive if I can't access the ECU without the top partly down. It seems like the thing blocking access is the lid around the exterior of the soft top that raises up. I don't see a way around needing the battery in that case