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YOUR RESEARCHFuel system additives
Leading reported evidence
Run tank of fuel and techron
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I run a tank of fuel and Techron before an oil change.
Leading evidence: 'Run tank of fuel and techron' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean agent chemicals themselves' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Anyway In addition to this use great quality fuel, I use v-power.
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Suggestion
There�s also the cleaning agent chemicals themselves.
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Suggestion
A good cleaning agent is going to loosen and break up particles, which means they have to go somewhere.
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Suggestion
So the idea is, oil has to be changed at regular intervals anyway, so might as well have a clean engine from top to bottom and time it with the fuel treatment.
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Suggestion
So the idea is, oil has to be changed at regular intervals anyway, so might as well have a clean engine from top to bottom and time it with the fuel treatment.
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I assume it is the lesser one, but it has worked great for us.
Hey everybody. Sporting a 99 996 and researching if I should use a fuel additive. What is safe out there for our engines? Techron, Joe Gibbs? Open to all suggestions. Thanks
Techron is great. I have a tough time keeping track of which is which, not helped by the fact that the both bottles look nearly identical, but I suspect they both work pretty well. Costco usually stock 6-packs of Techron for a ridiculously cheap price compared to AutoZone et al. I assume it is the lesser one, but it has worked great for us.
I'll probably get flamed for this, but Marvel Mystery Oil is a great gas additive (read complete post before forming an opinion). I use it religiously every fill-up on vintage cars -- 4 oz for every 10 gallons. It helps lubricate throttle shafts (which is a thing for vintage Weber carbs) and keep the combustion chamber clean. A very prominent mechanic for vintage racing swears by MMO for vintage cars on every tank for a variety of reasons.
I don't normally use it on modern cars, but there is a whole legion of MMO fanatics who use it on modern cars claiming they get measurably better gas mileage in addition to the car running better. I have used it on the 996 and the Q5 just before oil changes, and will do so again. MMO is older than dirt, but it works incredibly well on vintage cars and seems to have benefit to modern cars as well. It is internet folklore that MMO is simply automatic transmission fluid, but since MMO came out long before automatic transmissions existed
, that is definitively not the case.
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The one you want to buy is the complete fuel system cleaner. Over here every few months they run promos at the part stores advanced, autozone , O Reilly , Napa, buy one get one free. The difference between the fuel injector cleaner and the complete system is the concentration and type of additives. The carbon deposits on intake valves are a lot harder to clean. Anyway In addition to this use great quality fuel, I use v-power. For best results wait till you are about 1/4 tank, put the bottle in there, fill to above 3/4, then drive don�t fill again till you get below a 1/4 tank.
I'm with DBJoe on this one. One bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Service in the tank before an oil change. The car has always run well, so I don't know if it makes any difference.
LiquiMoly has one well with considering. I have been using it on all my cars (911E MFI, 996 C4, and turbo-converted MINI Cooper S) for a long time and none of them exhibit any fuel-related issues.
Liqui Moly 2007 Jectron Gasoline Fuel Injection Cleaner
Some auto parts stores carry it, so does Amazon. Around $8 a bottle.
+1. You can even do this right before a DE track event. The extra heat and flow of fuel may help clean things better when the engine is under load than street driving. Only downside is for track events, it�s recommended to start with fresh oil, so you�d be changing the oil twice, once before, once after.
By the way, the 99 has an external fuel filter, which I believe is different from later model cars. If the fuel filter hasn�t been changed in a long time, consider doing that before the treatment, or just doing it regardless.
A good cleaning agent is going to loosen and break up particles, which means they have to go somewhere. Mostly, hopefully, out the tailpipe. But engine �dirt� also gets absorbed/accumulated in the oil. That�s one big reason why we change oil - to get the dirt out.
There�s also the cleaning agent chemicals themselves. Like fuel, those liquids could also accumulate in the oil, making the oil less effective. I�m not sure this is such a big deal: if piston rings and valve guides are so worn that fuel can escape into the crankcase, then we have bigger problems. But then again, maybe even small amounts of cleaning agent in the oil could be worse than amounts of fuel.
So the idea is, oil has to be changed at regular intervals anyway, so might as well have a clean engine from top to bottom and time it with the fuel treatment.
yes well said. Clean the fuel system. Then few hundred miles after change your oil. For California guys, if you have issues passing smog and if smog is car on rolling dyno with sniffer in exhaust. Do the following; when car is 1/4 tank , add two bottles of fuel dryer , look for chemical contents (isopropyl alcohol), run car to almost empty then fill and go test. I used to do that to all my cars, they would pass many times with better results than new from factory. (All you are doing is leaning them up).
I really appreciate your tip. I also have a MINI Cooper S in which I completely replaced to factory supercharging system with a Garrett turbo system (350+ph). Needless to say, the cat cannot handle the emissions and the car does not always pass emission tests. So, I�ve not been driving around much.
I will try your suggestion and if the car passes the emission test, I shall owe you a debt of gratitude.
i think the fuel dryer should work, but if not I would go to some chop chop shop in el barrio that would provide the passing test, off course cash required, yes this is last available option. We don�t do dynos no more here in Texas but there are always places where you could just pay .
Thanks again. I used a chop chop shop in south San Jose, CA area a while back when I worked at Silicon Valley, and it was great. Finding these kind of shops in NC semi-rural areas is rather difficult, but it will be my Plan B.
I will post a report here of the results when the time comes (Dec).
remember I�m retired now. When I worked testing products on actual engines with tear downs and control environments on engine cells. The Techron product was great, Valvoline formulated to exceed Techron�s performance. Now that�s not for the $2 injector cleaner. Thats
for the close to $10 complete fuel system cleaner. God knows where performance is at today, I would not personally hesitate to
use the Techron or Valvoline synpower product.
Jake once said that Seafoam on a low tank is the ticket if you noticed fuel injector shuddering, but most fuel additives are a waste of money. I agree, top brand fuel for these car is the best recipe.
The best way to keep any car running In top shape is to make sure the whole fuel delivery system is clean. If you go to a VIOC ( Valvoline instant oil change), they will sell you
a system. 1. Similar to carb cleaner to clean the throttle. 2. They put an injector and valve cleaner in your fuel tank. 3. They run a cleaner thru a vacuum hose to clean your intake manifold. They probably charge anywhere from 75 to $100. But it works and you�ll see improvements in idling, acceleration, fuel economy, and power. I think most people here can do this on their own just buy the products that work. Also once you got the system clean run good gas.
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