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YOUR RESEARCHWho designed the belt tensioning mechanism?
Leading reported evidence
Run into
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Yep, ran into that when changing my tensioner last year.
Leading evidence: 'Run into' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace tensioner last year' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Yep, ran into that when changing my tensioner last year.
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11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T205155Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
To the engineer who designed the bastard belt tensioner spring-90 degree arm-15mm bolt-spacer-sleeve-tensioner bearing-sleeve-24mm nut all with red loctite. I have only one thing to say to you "you incompetent **** hole"
this is the third time I have to remove the whole assembly from the car, WELD the 15mm bolt to the 90-degree arm so that it does not spin when I try to lever the tensioner arm to install the fresh new belt.
Yelcab,
How do you really feel, lol? Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Obviously it doesn't sound like a fun job and you are getting it done. Venting is always good for your heath.
Funny thing is, your problem doesn�t seem to be a common one... Perhaps your anger is misplaced? Maybe your specific problem isn�t common? My tensioner has certainly never done that... Fix it or replace it and move on (go drive your car and put a smile on your face) ! Life is too short
I have a good tensioner asembly from my blown motor if u need a good used one as a spare. It has a new pully and would not be anywhere close to the cost if a new one.
People who don't think this is the problem are those that have never changed their tensioner bearings. Ask yourself this question: "How do you remove the old 15mm bolt from the back of the arm with no access?" Red loctite coming out of the tube does not seem to the the same stuff they pre-install on the new bolt. So you re-use the old one already on there and torque it to 40 Nm. Then you go to lever the 24mm tensioner nut and it just spins without deflecting the arm enough distance.
After messing with it for 15 minutes and getting nowhere, you remove the alternator, remove the coolant jacket, draining gallons of coolant everywhere, remove the oil filler tube, and remove the tensioner arm and weld it while swearing at it.
I just did this exact replacement of the idler pully on the tensioner last Saturday, exactly as you describe (red loctite etc). Guess I got lucky, it didn't spin on the tensioner arm when I levered the 24mm nut to put the belt back on. I get the problem though, they should have keyed it or otherwise prevented rotation somehow.
It is painful to get that tensioner assembly out from under the PS pump. I just got done putting it all together after a full rebuild, even on the engine stand it's a pain to get the puzzle together. I feel for you man!
