26 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSmall RMS leak - Problem?
Leading reported evidence
Replace rms and the ims flange seal
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
mine had the same problem, I recently changed my RMS and the IMS flange seal ..
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Suggestion
This doesn�t mean that every flange that�s leaking is a telltale for imminent bearing failure, but it is a symptom that should be checked into and not ignored...
Leading evidence: 'Replace rms and the ims flange seal' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check into and not ignored' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
This doesn�t mean that every flange that�s leaking is a telltale for imminent bearing failure, but it is a symptom that should be checked into and not ignored...
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Suggestion
This is a pretty common problem and as far as I know doesn't require any immediate attention - you should check your oil level from time to time though (which is just generally good practice).
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Suggestion
Next time you change your clutch get it fixed unless it bothers you now.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Or just fix it when I replace the clutch someday in the future?
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Check into and not ignored
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
This doesn�t mean that every flange that�s leaking is a telltale for imminent bearing failure, but it is a symptom that should be checked into and not ignored...
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Suggestion
This is a pretty common problem and as far as I know doesn't require any immediate attention - you should check your oil level from time to time though (which is just generally good practice).
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Suggestion
Although it is less likely to be the IMSB, it may make since to replace the RMS just for the sake of mind that the IMSB is ok and since your in there (with such a low millage car) you could consider the IMS Solution.
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Suggestion
If this bearing is original, it's only a matter of time 'til it fails...Often when they fail, you don't get any warning - goes right from running/sounding fine, to "death rattle"...
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Next time you change your clutch get it fixed unless it bothers you now.
I have a 2003 C2 Cab with only 22K miles on it.
It has had a leaky rear main seal for at least the last 5K. It is a VERY small leak, in that there are no drops on the ground. But a small seeping of oil is deff. noticeable at the bottom of the RMS.
Is this a problem that needs attention right away? A ticking time bomb? Or just fix it when I replace the clutch someday in the future?
Thanks!
This is a pretty common problem and as far as I know doesn't require any immediate attention - you should check your oil level from time to time though (which is just generally good practice). There is an updated version of the seal available, make sure to use that when you do eventually replace it.
As dporto mentioned, how do you know for sure. Oil leakage through the IMSB (the start of failure) will present itself at the same location as the RMS. Although it is less likely to be the IMSB, it may make since to replace the RMS just for the sake of mind that the IMSB is ok and since your in there (with such a low millage car) you could consider the IMS Solution. Read more here on Rennlist, many (who know allot more than I) have commented that a low millage car may have a higher chance of an IMS failure than a high mileage car.
The RMS and IMS would leak from the same place. So no way to tell which it is without opening it up. However it is most likely a pretty harmless RMS leak if you have no other symptoms. Next time you change your clutch get it fixed unless it bothers you now. The part is cheap... like $20 bucks. Getting to it is the problem.
Although I do agree with Steve that the RMS is more likely, it has been noted that by the time you have a "symptom" of an IMSB issue, it may be too late. Even if it does not completely fail, any contaminants from the IMSB in the oil (a symptom) may require a complete tear down so as to properly clean it and verify that no other damage has occurred. Don,t get me wrong, I am not an advocate of spending money when not needed, just wanted to give the OP some additional comments so that he can decide what he wants to do. Like I mentioned before, Read, Read, Read other threads on this issue so you can make your own educated decision.
There is no "most likely or most likely, not" scenario. When oil presents at the seam between the transmission and the engine, it's either the RMS or the IMSB flange that's leaking. The only way to tell which one is to remove the transmission and look at both. At the very least, you'll need to split the transmission and engine and thread a scope in there. The bottom line is this: Neither one of these things is supposed to leak. A RMS leak is certainly less concerning than a IMS Flange leak but since you can't tell which it is you've got to have a look. The problem with the IMS(B) flange leak is that it means the bearing seal has been compromised, and the grease has been washed out by engine oil (which is now leaking through the flange). If this bearing is original, it's only a matter of time 'til it fails...Often when they fail, you don't get any warning - goes right from running/sounding fine, to "death rattle"... Good luck
Others have brought up a good point regarding the IMS flange. If you haven't addressed the IMS, I would just bite the bullet. Have the IMS solution put in, then you can confirm where the leak is and have it fixed at the same time.
No recall. Most of the engines that were improperly machined back in the beginning of production of the 996 we hope have been removed out of circulation. However, there is a go no go tool we make to verify you do not have a mismachined crankcase at time of RMS replacement. Just make sure you use the Genuine Porsche seal with the R&S or Genuine RMS Tool.
I wouldn't say that a leak at the IMS flange is the start of failure, it just means the seal on the flange has shrunk and has started leaking oil. My IMS flange was leaking, bad enough to make a mess of the bell housing but not bad enough to leave drops on the floor. The bearing looked the same as most all the others shown here. My RMS wasn't leaking at all but I replaced it with the updated seal while is was in there. So far a few hundred km with the new RMS and IMS Solution and everything is dry as a bone .
As I mentioned above, if the original bearing is in the car and there is oil coming out from the flange, it means the seals have failed and engine oil has infiltrated the bearing. When this happened in early cars that weren�t driven regularly and had extended oil change intervals problems often arose. This doesn�t mean that every flange that�s leaking is a telltale for imminent bearing failure, but it is a symptom that should be checked into and not ignored...
Mine has been leaking for a few years. Seems to be more prononced when the car sits around for a week(there's a bunch of drips on the garage floor)instead of being driven every day.
mine had the same problem, I recently changed my RMS and the IMS flange seal .. Porsche had done my LN engineering bearing when I bought it. Had it all fixed and done last month, didn�t drive it much and saw oil under the car.. not much but it drips. Not really sure what do actually do anymore.
Apples and oranges. An external IMS related leak is almost always the seal between the cover plate and case. This has nothing to do with the bearing and the condition of the bearing seals. Bearing seals are internal, and leaking/not leaking cannot be determined without removing the bearing (or the outer bearing seal).
2003 C4S @ 127k miles. New IMS/RMS <1k miles ago right when I bought car. Drove car 500 miles in first few weeks of owning it. Snow hit, car sits for 2 weeks, seeing ~3 inch diameter oil spot underneath what I think is IMS/RMS area. A few noticeable droplets forming when I touch... whatever it is that I�m touching. Per above, it seems like that is normal
when the car sits for ~2 weeks. But oil coming from IMS area is not what you want to see right after swapping the IMS. Thoughts?
^^^ Leaking oil is NEVER NORMAL... Common? Maybe, but not "normal"... If you've really got less than 1000 miles on it since the "fix",(how long did it take to put the 1k mi. on it?) you should take it back to the shop that did the work and see what they say...
If the RMS and IMS were just replaced, the typical culprits are a non- Genuine Porsche RMS being fitted or the cam timing was slightly off which doesn't let the intermediate shaft sit perfectly centered in the housing bore, which then requires forced to get the IMS flange on. In that case, the triple lip seal can get cut on the block as the flange is driven home. As the IMS is submerged in oil, it's only logical that if the triple lip seal is damaged that it will leak. We have also seen cases that have scratches, porosity, or damage in the IMS flange housing bore which then requires some sort of sealant to be used as the triple lip o-ring can't otherwise seal properly.
1k miles in ~8 weeks. First 500 within 2 weeks. No drips or oil spotted. Second 500 over 6 weeks. No drips or oil spotted. Then car sat for 2 weeks and drips started coming
