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YOUR RESEARCHWhat are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
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What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace (weight reduced by)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check vacuum booster' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
Use 32mm wide 6082t6 spacers
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Indeed - I use 32mm wide 6082t6 spacers to move the caliper out.
What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
Use pagid yellow front, pagid black rear)
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After some trial and error and a lot of RL advice, this is my combo: SRF fluid, Fluid changes every 6 months, Good rotors (I use Pagid), track pads (I use Pagid Yellow front, Pagid Black rear).
What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
Use pagid), track pads (i
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After some trial and error and a lot of RL advice, this is my combo: SRF fluid, Fluid changes every 6 months, Good rotors (I use Pagid), track pads (I use Pagid Yellow front, Pagid Black rear).
What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
Replace every 6 months, good rotors (i
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After some trial and error and a lot of RL advice, this is my combo: SRF fluid, Fluid changes every 6 months, Good rotors (I use Pagid), track pads (I use Pagid Yellow front, Pagid Black rear).
What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
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Greetings folks,
I tried looking up this question, but I didn't see any great threads on it. So here's my question:
My brakes and rotors are closing in on replacement on my 2001 C2. I'm running the 18" Turbo Twist wheels. What are some options for larger brakes without having to do a ton of retrofitting? I'm not a mechanic, but I'd love to be able to do this upgrade without having to change my wheels or anything.
Will the 996 Turbo/C4S brakes fit? Is there an aftermarket variety that people would suggest? 993 Turbo brakes?
Either way, I'd love to have someone baby-step me through it. Thank you!
-Matt
What is your goal? Esthetics? Track use? With the right pads the stock brakes are pretty darn good. Turbo/C4S brakes weren't really that much bigger and when I have looked at it given the cost it doesn't seem worth it. I would assume the stock turbo/C4S brakes will fit under 18" turbo twists since those cars were sold new with those wheels as well. If you were really looking for stopping power for track use maybe look at StopTech aftermarket kits and GiroDisc rotors. Apex Performance in South Carolina is the PCA official sponsor for brakes, they would be good and very knowledgeable folks to call and ask some questions.
997 turbo brakes are an option but you might need 19" wheels , worth contacting these guys for advice
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Porsche-996.html
ive just bought girodisks which with better pads ( they also make good ones) are a good option without other changes needed
havent installed them yet
http://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1036.html
Thanks for the tips! Was looking to kill two birds with one stone - red calipers and better stopping power. If the C4S/TT system isn't leaps and bounds better for increased cost, then I guess going with better pads and painting calipers might just be a better option? I'll talk to Apex and see what they have to say as well.
Thanks guys!
-Matt
I’ve had the 996TT brakes, I’ve also had the GT3 6 piston brake system with 18 inch wheels. For a street or hpde car I personally think it’s a waste. Good fluid, good pads with proper bedding and good air guides are your friend. I know this isn’t the “popular” or “Sexy” recommendation.
Mike
Piggybacking on this thread.
I don�t plan to track my car, only street driving and autocross. The massive stock rotors seem like an overkill for a 3000lb car that probably never
has to brake at more than highway speed. I wonder if there are lighter/smaller rotors available to reduce the unsprung weight.
The stock braking system on a 996 C2 is very good. Find a pad/rotor combination you like, paint your calipers if you�re into that and be done with it.
Anything else is is a complete waste of time and money for anyone not optimizing for either sprint or endurance racing. If you choose to do that then there are more targeted modifications (with trade offs) that you could do.
If you are really serious about the reciprocating weight, GyroDisc, Coleman racing, amd a few others make a custom 2 piece rotor. Look into your wheel/lugstud/TIRE wheets. I converted from the 19s on my car when I bought it back in Feb to the GT3 wheels and HTR ZIII. Lighter by a decent margine. Checl the data...
The stock brakes are usually more than enough to cause any wheel to lock up, forcing the ABS to kick in. You would then want more tire to have better braking, but still, I believe the stock brakes can probably absorb 700+HP and still be fine, even under extreme hard braking.
For example, my stock 996.1 C2 at Road America coming into turn 1 at about 135mph could easily slow the car down, and coming into turn 5 at 125mph and downhill for a tight left hander. It will do this over and over again.
It�s only after repeated cycles on the track and after a few laps that street brake pads and fluids won�t hold up. Then, after replacing fluids and pad for track use, you�d want to look at replacing any brake lines for improved braking. After those items are exhausted, I would only then look at upgrading the brakes.
Unless of course your problem is that you have to apply a larger amount of pedal pressure to slow the car nd it feels to you like you need better brakes. In that case, you can look at a more streetable pad that has better immediate bite under braking. I would also check your vacuum booster to make sure it�s operting correctly.
Exactly. I track my 996 with stock brakes and stock rotors using track pads. Even on Hoosier R7 slicks 245 front and 315 rear I can lock up no problem. Honestly the #1 brake modification I have made is installing a 997 GT3 master cylinder. That with stock brakes is more than adequate for me on my mostly track use 996. Pedal feel is excellent...I would venture to guess if you did any caliper/rotor upgrade without upgrading the master cylinder you would be disappointed. Even for a street car the 997 GT3 master cylinder would be a nice upgrade...it reduces pedal travel a lot and gives a much more firm pedal feel than the stock 996 C2 or Turbo/C4S master cylinders. Plus it's a cheap upgrade compared to calipers and rotors.
I know I'm pretty late to this thread but I've suffered from brake fade on track in my C2. I now use a self-developed solution that allows me to use bigger rotors without having to pay megabucks for Gyrodiscs. I'm in the early days of testing but the front solution definitely works. The rears need an entirely different approach but I'm slowly getting there. The easy path on the rear is to use a stock 996 turbo rear caliper and a 330mm diameter turbo rear disc, and use spacers to move the caliper out. I'm trying to figure something out that will negate the need to hunt down 996 turbo calipers but it's not easy, which I guess is why a comercially available solution hasn't come along yet.
My mechanic is going to put the brakes from a 997c4s roller on my car right now. I wanted to paint the calipers already. So it is not that much an extra. Wheel carriers needs to be transplanted and some adapters machined. More esthetics then extra braking power.
This is the colour combo I have in mind. Acid Blue on Polar Silver.
About 10 years ago I did a DIY on spacing the caliper out to accommodate larger rotors on the 996TT platform. The key is finding the right material for the spacers. I ended up with an aero-industry high density Aluminum bar that i cut spacers out of. Bottom line is making sure you don't go "to" big and have wheel clearance issues. You also don't want the pad material being under used.
Mike
Indeed - I use 32mm wide 6082t6 spacers to move the caliper out. I think other people use smaller ones, but I believe it's important to give the spacer the maximum possible 'foot' in order to support the caliper and prevent bending loads on the caliper bolt. I'm also exploring the use of the 996 Turbo rear pad in the rear caliper for use with the 330mm discs, as the standard pad is about 10mm less deep and doesn't ssweep the whole disc. Testing should reveal any brake balance issues.
Could you just be braking too much? How do your time times compare with other cars of the same capability? I found myself braking too much in many turns, only realizing later that these 996s love trail braking instead of the usual advice for the 70�s and 80�s cars (brake in a straight line).
I'm confident my braking is appropriate to the circuit I was driving on (Bedford Autodrome in England). I used to race single seaters in the late noughties on all the UK road circuits and subsequent to that helped out with developing a couple of other track and race cars, so I'm not a novice. I don't want to sound full of myself but at Bedford I was comfortably faster than all the other few Porsches that were there and the only cars that were faster were the a couple of Caterhams and Arial Atoms. Bedford is a circuit that's hard on the brakes, with many big stops per lap. At other circuits I've driven the brakes would have lasted much longer. For instance my MX5 at the Nurburgring needed only about three big brake applications in a lap and I'm sure my 996 would get around there without experienceing fade. Similarly, at a more average UK circuit like Brands Hatch the 996 would only need to handle one big stop per lap, on the approach to Graham Hill bend. I know the key is mass - the 996 simply has way too much of it. My single seater weighed 350kg without a driver and funnily enough brake fade was never an issue. I've taken about 70KG out of my 996, but because I use it to drive the kids to school I can't gut it and buckets will have to wait. In the meantime, I'm going to be developing brakes that will use cheap stock discs and won't fade at all at the most brake-heavy circuits.
I have had zero fade on track with my C2. After some trial and error and a lot of RL advice, this is my combo: SRF fluid, Fluid changes every 6 months, Good rotors (I use Pagid), track pads (I use Pagid Yellow front, Pagid Black rear). I would consider myself an intermediate driver. I can imagine a higher level driver or racing scenario needing more.
I've done a bunch of stuff that was detailed in the thread on the 911UK forum that the list above was pulled from. The main items were a much lighter exhaust, lithium battery, aircon removal, passenger seat removal when track driven, no spare wheel or tool roll, no rear wiper or motor, no rear crash bar, 17" 10-spokes (lightest available OEM wheels) and lots of other small parts pared down or removed. I'd say the best bang for buck was the either the exhaust or the battery, both netted individual gains in lightness that you can actually feel by themselves.
I helped out a fellow forum member this afternoon with my front brake solution. I'm gutted I didn't get to try the car, but I had an appointment I had to keep. This is 350mm discs with RS29 pads on a C2. It should stop now.
Lucky fellow has Ohlins, and now he has 350mm brakes and RS29 Pads too.
Now the brakes fill the wheel.
