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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHIdler Pulley Sheared Bolt & Threads
Leading reported evidence
Use too short of a bolt
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The problem seems to be that the previous installation of the pulley used too short of a bolt.
Leading evidence: 'Use too short of a bolt' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check of things while you' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Do pop the engine cover on occasion and do a visual check of things while you check oil/coolant level etc...
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Suggestion
Do pop the engine cover on occasion and do a visual check of things while you check oil/coolant level etc...
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have to double check with the mechanic but I'm pretty sure it's the lower idler pulley.
Fill without warping the case around it, drilled and tapped
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
I supposed if the hole could be welded/filled without warping the case around it, drilled and tapped - that would be a better/more proper fix?
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Suggestion · Original poster
We discussed it today and he thinks there's enough good threads to hold the pulley securely but he's going to look into an option to "support" the bolt via other thread repair methods for the last 5mm or so.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T130754Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So, this is properly f&#ked, my idler Pulley sheared on my drive on Saturday. Mechanic just called and said that about half the threads came out with the sheared bolt. He doesn't think a helicoil is a good fit for this application and we're trying to figure out what the best fix is.
I've accepted that the engine is going to need to be dropped for this. What is the correct fix for this? Can the threads be drilled out and an insert put in?
Thanks
Wow, that sucks! I don't see why a properly sized helicoil/insert (I forget the name of the one that's considered better than the heli-coil) wouldn't work. Perhaps there's not enough material in that area? Not sure, and I'm not going to go look (since my car is in the garage 7 miles away...). I supposed if the hole could be welded/filled without warping the case around it, drilled and tapped - that would be a better/more proper fix? I'm sure someone will come up with the right answer - Have you tried Renntech?
https://www.renntech.org/forum/2-996...rera-4s-targa/
it's a good resource for technical/mechanical stuff... Good Luck
I've been researching them and I think my mechanic's concern is that the helicoils are normally half an inch long and the hole is about an inch deep. Is it kosher to put two in or is there a better fix?
I have to double check with the mechanic but I'm pretty sure it's the lower idler pulley. I recall my mechanic saying that one has a long bolt and it's not that one. From a Pelican thread someone said the lower idler Pulley is m8x60 bolt but that was for a 997, not sure if it's the same for 996.
Another one of these threads....I have a magical mythical car and it fell from heaven...it's not like any other car on the planet it is so mysterious....and now it's idler pulley bolt does not work. Are you for real?
Seriously....Immediately return your car to Porsche, sign the form for a no refund return, and never ever own another car.
Your mechanic is an idiot if they cannot figure out the difference in a bolt for a 997 vs 996, or how to fix a bolt hole.
Yes....but...the mechanic pulled the bolt so it is right in front of them...and they can't figure out the size? Oh my...
Belt tensioner diagram and bolts
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=101-10
Easy there turbo. You managed to jump to a lot of conclusions. A) I'm trying to research what the best fix is for this, so excuse me for doing so as it's unfathomable that in our large community there may be a better fix that isn't common knowledge. B) look at the time I posted this, it was after 5pm, I was asking for the bolt dimensions because the car isn't in my garage and my mechanic isn't available. I'm doing this research on my own to make sure it's done right. My mechanic broke the bad news late last night and we were going to discuss further in the morning options.
And lastly, that's generally just a **** poor, unhelpful attitude and is just WTF (no where did I complain about this happening). I went over a dozen idler Pulley threads last evening and I didn't see any discussing the best fix for the threads getting messed up. If this pulley manages to shear bolts somewhat frequently, it probably sees high loads so it's critical the fix is done right rather than slap a helicoil in it and call her done...
There are two possible sizes depending on the actual pulley that is affected. M10 x 1.5, or M8 x 1.25. Each size comes in different Timesert lengths that can fit the application. Although just because the hole is 1 inch long, does not mean you need a 1-inch insert. Probably requires a right angle drill for this job in-situ.
"If this pulley manages to shear bolts somewhat frequently, it probably sees high loads so it's critical the fix is done right rather than slap a helicoil in it and call her done..."
The most likely cause of this is A) the bolt not being properly torqued and loosening up so there was play between the pulley and the boss and/or (B) the pulley seizing in combination with that bolt being loose (could possibly snap it even if it wasn't loose). It seems either of these scenarios would have been accompanied by some unusual noise, but whatever... I'd think a properly sized and installed Time-Sert would be the quickest fix that would hopefully last. Do pop the engine cover on occasion and do a visual check of things while you check oil/coolant level etc... Good luck
You shouldn't be telling your mechanic how to fix this unless you want to take the heat if the fix fails. This is all on him but be careful he doesn't use this as an opportunity to rip you off. Timer sert, Helicoil or any other brand of thread insert should work. There isn't that much pressure on the roller. Something else must have happened to cause the bolt to come out. As written above, there is nothing magical in this repair and he should be able to do this with the engine in the car.
Thanks all. The problem seems to be that the previous installation of the pulley used too short of a bolt. It looks like there was only 5mm or so of thread engagement
The challenge with the lower idler pulley and the reason why my mechanic did not suggest a time-sert was that since that part of the case is contoured around the bolt, he thinks the material removal needed for a time-sert may be too much and could weaken the integrity of the case. We discussed it today and he thinks there's enough good threads to hold the pulley securely but he's going to look into an option to "support" the bolt via other thread repair methods for the last 5mm or so.
So, as mentioned above, I'll leave it in his capable hands.
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