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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPower Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
Reported or suspected cause
green hnbr (nitrile butadiene) assortment box
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Reported cause · Original poster
It was the green HNBR (nitrile butadiene) assortment box.
Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
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Leading evidence: 'green hnbr (nitrile butadiene) assortment box' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'green hnbr (nitrile butadiene) assortment box' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace leaking o-rings' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced the metal return line due to the fire in the engine bay of my 2002 Targa before I bought the car.
Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
Use off of the same car
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
And recall that both the line and the hose were purchased used off of the same car, so they were mated sometime in the past.
Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
Use strength i can muster
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It won't budge any further back and I'm using all the strength I can muster.
Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
Use their search function
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Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
Use proper wrenching technique
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Suggestion · Original poster
By the way, the manual states that to re-install the quick connect fittings, all you need to do is tighten both the A and B sides together using the proper wrenching technique, then insert the fitting onto the line until an audible snap is heard.
Power Steering return hose leaking at repaired connection above engine
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
Just run down to your local auto parts store and buy a pack with assorted sizes and put in the one that fits, worked for me...
I replaced the metal return line due to the fire in the engine bay of my 2002 Targa before I bought the car. The new lines, rubber hoses and pump all came off a 2004 cabriolet. I noticed that the connection was missing the o-ring, so after much searching, I opted to try a plumbing type o-ring from the hardware store. Wrong! It not only leaks, but I can, with little effort yank the hose right off the fitting. And of course, it will eventually be eaten up by the caustic hydraulic fluid in the line. The high pressure side has a white teflon collar that I think acts like a lock on the line crimp. Does anyone know if the low side has the same teflon ring? If so I haven't found it online. alone from the OE part which includes the compression nut, basket and both teflon and o-ring for a mere $150 at the dealer. They only had the high pressure side in stock, so I thought I would ask here.
If the low side does not use the teflon ring, I still need to find out what size the o-ring should be. I've been to the o-ring site mentioned in an archived low side leak post on Rennlist, but you cannot order unless you know the exact size. Here are two photos showing the new o-ring in the fitting and the crimped line end. The fitting in this photo does not appear to have any room for a teflon ring. I looked at my high side fitting before I tightened it up and it clearly has a slot for the teflon ring between the o-ring and the opening. By the way, the manual states that to re-install the quick connect fittings, all you need to do is tighten both the A and B sides together using the proper wrenching technique, then insert the fitting onto the line until an audible snap is heard. It does not mention the size of the required o-ring or whether there is a teflon ring on both lines. I have the engine lowered a couple of inches so that I could replace the leaking o-rings on the oil cooler. So, I'll wait for answers from this incredible forum before raising it back up.
.
Thanks for the tip. I just went to the Auto Atlanta site, but I did not see any o-rings there. How do I find the parts fiche? I used their search function but came up empty.
Try here:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=403-01
or here:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=403-02
maybe I am confusing this with the A/C o-rings...?
That link takes me to the a/c connections section. My leak is in the power steering return line. I may try to give them a call. I noticed that they have the same compression fitting assembly that my local dealer has, so at least they'll be able advise me on which o-rings to purchase. Thanks.
Bill, I am back to working on my power steering line issue, after replacing the oil cooler o-rings. What's happening is the large compression nut will easily slide all the way to the ferrule (the free-spinning ring) on the line without an o-ring. When I install any o-ring, and I've tried four so far, the nut stops at the wider part of the line. It won't budge any further back and I'm using all the strength I can muster. If I could just slide it back to the ferrule I'd be home free. And recall that both the line and the hose were purchased used off of the same car, so they were mated sometime in the past. When I look at the #14 o-ring (50 of them in a bag for $5) as it sits in the groove, I can put my pinky finger in there and barely feel the o-ring. It looks like a good fit. But it won't allow full seating, which in turn will not allow the hose to snap in place and of course it leaks. Do you know what size o-ring I should use? Or, how the installed o-ring should look inside the nut? The #14 o-ring is not metric, but I can't seem to find the exact dimensions from any vendor in metric. Any clues from anyone would be appreciated.
Solved it! I made some very careful measurements of the fitting with my calipers, and wrote down the results from both scales so I would know the metric and SAE sizes for the o-rings. Then I Googled the size and found one at Harbor Freight. It was the green HNBR (nitrile butadiene) assortment box. It turns out that the 1/2" x 5/8" x 1/16" was a perfect fit for the low pressure return line. After I placed the o-ring in the groove, the fitting slid right on, a bit snug, which is good. Tightened it all down, but not gorilla-strength tight. Now it holds on to the line when I pull on it. I'll attempt the first start up since the fire and let you all know how it goes. Thanks for all the input.
Dang! Once I cranked the engine, which still does not start (see separate post today) it continues to leak. The ferrule or brass "collar" behind the compression fitting spins freely. Is that normal? If that is supposed to be braised, welded or crimped in place, then it sure is loose. The high side does not spin at all. I wonder if the line crimp is damaged or out of round, and is allowing the fluid to get by the o-ring. Bill, I know you mentioned a thicker o-ring, which I tried and could not get the two parts to mate. I may have to just spring for a new line, which will mean removing the engine. Not a fun task, since I just put it back in.
Bill, is there any way I can glue or JB Weld the brass fitting (the one that is spinning on the hard line) in place? I still have the leak, even with a brand new male side coupling. The leak is definitely coming from behind (viewed from back of car) the brass fitting. I no of a parts car that has some mid-chassis P/S fittings left over. I'm thinking that I (1) cut that line in front of the connection on the donor car leaving enough steel line to go into a compression union, (2) cut the damaged line just after it makes the final bend, (3) connect the donor fitting/short line to the existing line above the engine with said union. Do you, or anyone else, think that would work?
