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YOUR RESEARCHMy new 996!
Leading reported evidence
Repair damaged left rear wheel
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The damaged left rear wheel was repaired successfully and a new tire was mounted and balanced with no issues.
Leading evidence: 'Repair damaged left rear wheel' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check date codes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The previous owner replaced a flat on the right rear.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It has 3 Conti DWS tires and one rear Conti Extreme that replaced a flat a couple of years ago.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The PO had the oil changed May of 2019, but the car was barely driven the whole year.
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54 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hi all,
Just when I resigned to wait another year to look for a car a 2002 996 popped up on my local Craigslist. It's blue with whatever color interior that is, body in reasonably good shape, interior in very good shape (typical interior paint chips and a missing ash tray). It has 109k miles on the odometer.
Here's the very good:
The engine was rebuilt in 2018, about 4,000 miles ago, with cylinders bored and replaced with nickies, Wossner pistons, all new chains and tensioners, of course all new bearings, valve job on heads. It also has the LN IMS Solution with spin-on filter adapter.
The car has a Tiptronic. While I was looking for a 6 speed, I got to say, I didn't mind driving the Tip when I took it for an extended test drive. The car pulls very strongly. It looks like it has an aftermarket fixed spoiler, brand unknown.
It has 3 Conti DWS tires and one rear Conti Extreme that replaced a flat a couple of years ago. The DWS look like they are no longer available, so I am guessing that's why the different model tire. The rear DWS is shot, with cord showing on the inside edge. I ordered a tire and will get an alignment done. It also needs the transmission filter and fluid changed and a oil change. I think it still has the break-in oil from the engine rebuild, as the car hasn't been registered since Jan 2019 and not driven much in 2018.
I haven't been able to wipe the sh*t eating grin off my face since driving it home this past Friday!
No oil threads! That being said, the owner manual says to use 10W40 or 15W40 (above 50 degrees). So yes, I have to decide what oil to use. The mechanic who rebuilt the engine said use anything except Mobil 1. Let's not start another oil thread.
Congrats and welcome!
I have to say, the tires and oil thing and funny and strange. I would at least try to get all 4 tires the same type and wear level if you can.
The tires bug me a bit. The fronts, which are DWS are not that old and have a ton of tread on them. If this was a C4 I'd definitely match all four with the same model. I already ordered a new Conti Extreme, so if it turns out the front tires suck I'll replace them.
The break-in oil is Amsoil 10W30, so it's not like it has some weird straight weight oil in there. I'll probably end up ordering a case of DT-40.
I am impressed with the power and acceleration. The car pulls way better than a 2004 C4 with Tip that I test drove last fall, which led me back to looking for a 6 speed. I'm still grinning!
Be sure to check the date codes on the fronts. My 03 had Conti Extremes on the front when I bought it with full tread, HOWEVER, they were 8 years old.
My rears were Sumitomos and one was damaged from hitting a pothole so I had to replace them and chose to replace all 4 with Michelin PS2s. I was going to tell the tire shop they could have the Contis, but then we looked at the date code and we both said "oh well, it was a nice idea, but..."
looks beautiful...but i'm bias because I have the same colour 996.2 with the same rims.
I just picked up a set of 18" turbo twists....not sure which rims to keep for my summer driving
I was poking around the car and took a look under the frunk carpeting. The car is clean with no signs of accident damage. The top plastic cover to the CD changer is broken, but the CD magazine ejected properly. After re-inserting the empty magazine a red light on the radio started to blink. The car is unlocked, so the alarm is not set, but the light on the radio continues to blink. The one FOB I have (prev owner has the other one, still need to get it) had a weak battery. I replaced it with a CR2032 (as stated in the owner manual), but now the FOB won't work at all. I tried another battery, but no go.
Air filter was filthy, so today's activity is to replace the air and cabin filters. And just to NOT start an oil thread (tongue-in-cheek here) I downloaded LN's engine break-in procedure. Because there are so few miles on the engine I'll replace with conventional oil, send out for an analysis to get a baseline, then move to full synthetic at the end of driving season.
And finally, good tip on the front tires. I'll check the date codes and replace if too old.
Found a crack in the rear wheel when I brought it to the tire place today. It's a 1" crack that starts at the edge of the rim. A guy at KwickSilver Wheel Repair in Derry NH says he can repair it.
I'm looking for opinions on whether to repair it or look for a used wheel (Carrera 18", pictures in previous posts).
Thank you,
Joel
Here are some pics. There are no Porsche part numbers on this wheel. I wonder if it is aftermarket?
Top view
Side view
Size of rim
Don't recognize this part number
Is this an aftermarket wheel?
I think the wheels are genuine but the cracks in this last pic are scary. There's the crack on the barrel portion and it looks like another long one going around the outer circumference. The picture doesn't show how much farther it goes in each direction. I don't think I would personally use that wheel no matter how good the repair shop is.
Hmmm.... The line around the circumference may be dirt or a collection of brake dust. I'll take a closer look.
The replacement route means I have to find a set for the rear (who sells one wheel?) that matches the front. I'd hate to have to buy 4 wheels. I'd like to stay OEM.
So who has some wheels collecting dust in the basement or garage?
$900 for wheels that need refinishing - not quite what I'd call cheap. While I am used to the Porsche tax, from owning a 944, I have to get used to the additional 911 tax (perhaps a VAT tax if I was in Canada)!
Forgot to add, this car was originally purchased in CA, Nov 2001 and stayed in nice weather until July 2009. From 7/2009 to 7/2014 it was in MA. It's been in NH since 7/2014.
The crack was already there. Based on the dirt around the crack and the condition of the other scratches it could've been there for quite a while. The previous owner replaced a flat on the right rear. However; the left rear wheel is the damaged one.
I just picked up the car on 2/21. Like all used Porsches, it didn't take long to get up on four jackstands (with jacks in place!
While I am contemplating the wheel situation I'll change the oil and replace the rear pads and rotors. Rear pads have ~5 mm left and there is quite a lip on the rotors. The rear rotors could be original for all I know. Of course I have the wheel off and the car is too close to the garage wall to change the right rear.
Oh wifey, someone needs a lift!
I am looking for a set of wheels while waiting to see if the cracked wheel can be repaired. If I can find a set locally I'll go that route. If the cracked wheel can be repaired I'll keep the set that is on the car now as spares. Of course the best option is to find two rear Carrera 2 wheels for the rear (18X10 65ET). I really like the look of those wheels on the car.
While the car is sitting on jack stands I'll change the oil (if it gets above freakin' freezing temperature) and replace the rear rotors and pads. I see kits that include pad wear sensors. Do the folks that DIY their brakes typically change the sensors?
That's not a crack around the circumference - it looks like a ridge that was created by "curbing" the wheel on something (a lift rail or a car wash perhaps). That other crack can possibly be welded - take it to a good wheel guy who will tell you one way or the other (he's not going to risk liability if he doesn't think it can be done safely). Good luck
Dporto, the wheel is at a wheel specialist now. I dropped it off Wed night. He hasn't looked at it yet. I guess it's a good thing it is cold out, because I am already getting antsy! The text conversation on Friday went, "Hey, did you get a chance to look at the wheel to see if it is repairable?" Response: "Not yet" with no further info on when. Me, impatient? Nah, not me!
Btw, I just bought a brand new 18" Carrera II rear wheel, 18X10, from Porsche, it was $1K. Worth every penny, now I have a perfect wheel that cleans up so easily.
Drained the oil into a 12qt plastic tub. The container is almost full (maybe an inch from the top). By my guesstimate there's got to be at least 10 quarts, if not more. Book says 9.3 quarts with a filter change. The oil was reading about a half inch over the full mark on the dipstick with a cold engine. BTW, I was happy that this engine has a dipstick!
So it seems it was over filled. This car has the IMS Solution. It also had a pretty large (more fat than tall) oil filter that cross-referenced to a NAPA 1068. The LN website calls for a NAPA 1042 without the Solution and a NAPA 1348 with the Solution. The 1348 is considerably smaller in circumference than the oil filter I removed. Could this car have a deep sump? How would I know? The PO had the oil changed May of 2019, but the car was barely driven the whole year. Oil pressure looked normal to me when I test drove it and then drove it home (ie, above 4 when on the gas and stayed around 2 when idling hot).
I've wrenched plenty on a 944, but this my first experience wrenching on a 911.
That�s normal. Many have pressure at 1-1.5 when hot and 5 when cold. The idle pressure will drop as the engine gets hotter, such as standstill traffic or on the track. Hot oil pressure should never be below 3.5bar at 5,000 RPM.
Understood on the oil pressure. It was more to indicate the oil pressure seemed normal. I'd imagine if it was way overfilled it may show higher pressure when idling hot.
The large oil filter has me baffled. Also it seems most part stores (even real ones that are not Autozone or O'Reilly's) list a 20mm drain plug. Mine is a 18mm plug with T50 Torx. So finding a new washer locally turned into an adventure.
I remember reading somewhere here that Porsche expects to let the oil drain for several hours. I started the drain around noon. By 5:00pm there was still a thin stream, not drips, but a stream still draining. Now that is a slow drain!
So, the NAPA 1068 is an approved alternative. Here is the response I received from Charles at LN:
"The 1068 is an approved alternate filter. We do recommend running it when you have the 2 quart deep sump and skid plate fitted, as this provides extra protection for the oil filter on M96 and M97 engines."
The oil filter does not hang lower than the oil pan so I'll replace it with the same part number. The pressure line, though, does hang a little lower than the pan, which bugs me a bit. It is steel braided, so I really can't influence how it wants to hang. I don't think there is anything under there to attach a cable tie.
Kudos to LN Engineering for the fantastic response time!
Oil filter saga is over. The NAPA 1068 was too tall and stuck lower than the oil pan; back to the parts store again and purchased the NAPA 1348 (again). Although the outside diameter of the filter is much smaller than the one I took off, I'm sticking with it. So that should answer my question, that the car does not have a deep sump oil pan.
I drained a little over 10 quarts of oil out of the engine, not including what was in the filter. I put back just over 8 quarts to get a reading of half way between the low and high marks on the dipstick. This reading is on a cold, not started engine. Once I have the car off the jack stands I'll drive it to warm up the oil and fill to about the half line on the dipstick. My guess is that it was overfilled by a quart or perhaps a little less.
The damaged left rear wheel was repaired successfully and a new tire was mounted and balanced with no issues. I did heed the advice here and have locally sourced a set of wheels that I'll look at next weekend. Unfortunately, the sourced wheels are Carrera Twists, so I'll have to buy 4. I am amazed at just how light the 10X18 Carrera 2 weighs. It reminds me of Fuchs that I had on the 944.
Next steps are to get the Tip tranny fluid and filter changed, remove the front bumper to clean the radiators, and change the fuel filter. I'll have a shop do the tranny fluid and fuel filter (I hate working with fuel in an enclosed area). Although the procedure to change the Tip fluid looks fairly straight forward, I'll leave the first change to the experts. The change interval is 90,000 miles, so that should cover me and my heirs for the life of the car! Later this spring (before black fly season) I'll replace the rear rotors and pads.
I appreciate the help here on Rennlist. As someone who hung out in the 944 forum many years ago, it never ceases to amaze me at how much we can learn about our cars from this place.
Correct oil fill is mid mark on the dipstick or dash guage when the engine is cold and on level surface. If that is where it is now, don't add any more oil. Overfill is bad for the engine.
Sounds like you have the best IMS fix, that's a nice bonus. And you are getting THE car nicely sorted out - here''s to smooth sailing, er driving!
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