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YOUR RESEARCHWhat does a healthy M96 sound like at idle?
Leading reported evidence
Repair those systems adds up fast
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Repair those systems adds up fast' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair those systems adds up fast' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
True, but on an older car like this, having the bores scoped from top and bottom really isn�t too expensive, especially if the plugs need to be changed anyway.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I think I'm good but I'll probably do the borescope just to check it out when I do my next oil change so I can sleep soundly at night.
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Suggestion
True, but on an older car like this, having the bores scoped from top and bottom really isn�t too expensive, especially if the plugs need to be changed anyway.
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Suggestion
9000 miles on rebuild using Porsche new shortblock with large single IMSB, heads rebuilt by Hoffmann, new fuel injectors, spin-on oil filter adapter, DT40, etc.
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38 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T064914Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
May sound like a ridiculous question, but as the title states, I would like some samples of suspected "healthy" M96 engines at idle. After watching way too much "Focus on Bore Scoring," I'm questioning what a M96/97 should sound like at idle without bore scoring or any other underlying issues.
Yes, Ive searched extensively and not found any answers.
What does a healthy M96 sound like at idle? Please share a video or sound clip.
Thanks for the video wild billy32!
I think I'm good but I'll probably do the borescope just to check it out when I do my next oil change so I can sleep soundly at night.
You Tube
Here�s mine.
You Tube
I think it�s pretty normal. The pulleys and intake are loud, as well as the fister exhaust, but pay attention to the valves ticking and there�s not much else going on (no piston slap).
Thanks Mike! Sounds good.
I think I got caught up in the �Porsche�s don�t tick� rhetoric that�s being thrown around.
Obviously they do tick, just like any other engine. Whether the It�s valves, injectors, lifters, or whatever there�s definitely some ticking going on.
I think the takeaway is to listen for piston slap, not ticking.
Unfortunately, even without any noise or other signs evident it seems these motors can still have the dreaded bore scoring.
True, but on an older car like this, having the bores scoped from top and bottom really isn�t too expensive, especially if the plugs need to be changed anyway. And then the owner will have peace of mind for the most part.
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Wow, the dealer is a total douchebag liar.
I once test drove a BMW X3 that had a tick. The dealer said, �they all do that, here...I go get another one and pull it around, you�ll hear it tick too!� Sure enough, the second one ticked. I told him he keeps buying bad cars!
How many miles on that one? When you walked to the other side, opposite the loud ticking, there was dark smoke blowing by too. I bet the exhaust tips weren't even. When setting up an appointment I always ask for a time when I can observe a cold start.
92k. Blue smoke was all the oil leaks dripping on the exhaust. Suspect original spark plug tubes as it was flowing pretty good after the drive. I did get to start it up cold. No tick was present then. Only showed up after the drive.
Pretty color car. Has a leather dash, too. Ditch those wheels, though.
If you could get it cheap enough enough it might be fun to drive until you rebuild engine. How many miles do you plan to drive a year? If not too many you might get a couple of years out of it before rebuild time.
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I feel like the price at which this would be worth it and what the dealer wants are way to far apart. They say its normal so I doubt they are willing to budge, this thing sounds close to a roller territory.
Didn't get a chance to try this. Was already convinced not to buy.
But all the engine stuff aside, the car felt great. Haven't been in a 996 Carrera since August and gotta say my memory was consistent with the experience - haven't found a 2+2 car that can compare for the price.
Maybe you could use the motor from this roller. Pretty cheap for $9K. Looks like the rear end took a hit though.
https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6200808?ad_cid=9
That took a fairly significant shot in the right rear. Note the crumpled up muffler. Wonder how far that impact energy traveled in towards the engine. Nervous I would be...yes.
I'm not saying that you should buy this car. A dealer won't be that flexible on price. But, take it from my personal experience, it's better to buy a running car that needs a rebuild than to buy a roller.
With a roller you don't know the condition of the transmission, electrical system, suspension, etc. Repairing those systems adds up fast!
This is normal. 9000 miles on rebuild using Porsche new shortblock with large single IMSB, heads rebuilt by Hoffmann, new fuel injectors, spin-on oil filter adapter, DT40, etc.
You Tube
Sounds the same as the bore score video to me. Just thankful that my 2000 C4 Cab doesn't sound like that. Wouldn't have bought it (w/o knowing what it meant) if it did.
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