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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLN Oil Filter Adapter & Magnetic Drain Plug
Leading reported evidence
Check oil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I shut of the car and checked the oil on the dipstick - still half way between the low and full marks.
Leading evidence: 'Check oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check level in the morning and add as needed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Once the oil is drained I fitted the LN magnetic plug using the same 7MM hex socket and used my 3/8 torque wrench to tighten to 19 FT/LBS.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just changed my oil, 2002 996 with recent engine rebuild.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It will take a couple goes as the air within the filter is replaced with oil.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Once the oil is drained I fitted the LN magnetic plug using the same 7MM hex socket and used my 3/8 torque wrench to tighten to 19 FT/LBS.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Time for an oil change.
Bought into the LN oil filter adapter kit and picked up the magnetic drain plug along with the DT40 oil. I guess I am drinking the kool aid after using Mobil 1 for my previous changes.
Have to get the oil hot before changing, perfect excuse to get the car out and enjoy before getting to work.
Got the car home and put it in the air relatively level to get the best drain as possible.
Now I gabbed my oil pan, a 7MM hex socket and 3/8 ratchet and removed the drain plug from the sump. With such a large capacity there is a lot of force behind that oil so have a large oil pan, I think mine is 12QTS at the ready. I let the oil drain for about 45 minutes.
Once the oil is drained I fitted the LN magnetic plug using the same 7MM hex socket and used my 3/8 torque wrench to tighten to 19 FT/LBS. Make sure you have a new crush washer fitted to the plug before installing - the LN plug came with.
Now I reposition the oil pan under the filter. I use my strap filter wrench to loosen the oil filter canister until it loosens freely by hand and remove. Put the canister in the filter location in the pan and let the oil drain out.
Once the oil has sufficiently wept out of the filter element I cut it open and inspect.
Now I grab a QT of oil and lubricate the 2 o rings on the LN adapter, 1 on the outer threads and 1 on the inner. Install the adapter as you would the canister, once resistance is felt use a 26MM deep socket on the adapter to finish seating, torque to 18 FT/LBS.
Take the NAPA Gold 1042 now used and fill it with as much oil as it will take. It will take a couple goes as the air within the filter is replaced with oil. I take my time on this part and get every bit of oil in the filter I can. Then I lubricate the seal with some of the spill over fresh oil.
Carefully (its filled with oil) screw the new filter onto the LN adapter, my go to is as tight as I can get it by hand is tight enough and will lead to it not seizing itself on there for the next change.
Move my way to the top of the car and fill. My last change took a little over 9 QTS, so I put in 9 and started the car, let it run for 30 seconds or so and killed it. I'll go back and check the level in the morning and add as needed.
I think it's been pretty well documented that the Mobil 1 of today isn't as good as the Mobil 1 of yesteryear. DT40 is a good choice. But, there are other choices....
Thanks for the DIY report. It's something that I could do but will just let my Indie install this the next time I get the oil changed. Let us know how much oil you finally had to use.
Yep , I do the same basic procedure, but I also stick a small rare earth magnet from an old hard drive to the bottom of the oil filter for that little extra magnetic particle help
so far so good, nothing on it or the mag drain plug
Zbomb, why didn't you do the proper flush with the Driven BR30 first? Lots of cross pollination with residual Mobil and Driven. The additive package is greatly compromised. FYI. Think about another oil change, sooner than your usual OCI, and you'll be fine.
Did not think of it.
The fact that the benefits of 9QTS of DT oil is so greatly compromised by the residual legacy oil is interesting. I did not read any of the JG or LN stuff say that W/O a flush the benefits of the oil would be so greatly diminished.
I can buy 20 liters of Motul xcess for 25 buck cheaper than 12 quarts of dt40. You really think it’s worth it to change? I have been considering it. But Motul is such an excellent oil. Not sure if it would be a great upgrade especially after having to do the flush. I follow 6 months oil changes regardless of miles. Usually 1200-2000 miles.
Warning: Hijack thread in progress! I've been posting on "My New 996" thread, but seeing that Zbomb just did his oil, I thought it was appropriate here.
I just changed my oil, 2002 996 with recent engine rebuild. Based on LN's engine break-in procedure I bought conventional 10W40 oil for this change, then will change to full synthetic in the fall. I added in just over 8 quarts, where the dipstick registered half way between the marks. I started it the first time this morning to warm it up and top off the oil. Oil pressure did not move past 1.5 on the gauge and I got an oil light and low oil pressure warning. I shut of the car and checked the oil on the dipstick - still half way between the low and full marks. I started the car and oil pressure did not improve, even after a slight engine rev. I shut off the car and now don't know what to do.
Any suggestions? Even if the car is 1 quart low it should still generate oil pressure. I'm at a loss and worried about starting the car again.
Joel
Funny you mention that. The oil level measure in the computer was searching or trying to calibrate with a clock stating it would finish calibrating in 53 minutes. Well, I wasn't going to wait that long! The oil pressure gauge and level indicator worked fine last time I drove it. It seems odd that it would just fail from sitting there.
Okay, so I am not totally freaking out, but then again, I am totally freaking out. Do I let the car run until warm? Is there any way the oil pump lost prime?
...found the thread on the oil pressure sending unit symptoms and replacement. It looks like I'll be ordering a new part today.
Thank you dporto from talking me off the ledge!
I re-seated the wires on the oil pressure sending unit. That did the trick. Oil gauge and computer level now work. If (when) it acts up again I'll replace the oil sender. I suppose it would've been worse had the oil pressure dropped to zero when out on the road.
18 year old parts and electrics. Let the fun begin!
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