Maintenance costs for my 04 C4S (2 years, 30k miles)

I bought a 2004 C4S almost 2 years ago, with 30k miles. The car was pristine, and had been driven pretty regularly, but not many miles each day. This car is my daily driver (60 miles each day). And I have been absolutely loving it. Last year, I began doing all of the Peachstate PCA auto-x events in Atlanta, which has really done a lot to teach me how to drive my car. I am proud to say I won 4 of 6 events last year in my class, and 2 of 6 in the overall stock category. So I have been helping a buddy look for a 964, and have been looking for maintenance history in these forums for that car. I figured that it would be a good idea to post my experience with my car. I have not added all of this up yet, but I can tell you, from an emotional perspective, I dont feel like maintenance costs have been beating me up. I use a local inde guy here in Atlanta, Bob at RWL. 6/15/09 - 31,639 - $100 - PPI 2/26/10 - 44,158 - $967 - new rear Bridgestones tires (fronts were new when purchased, and have not yet replaced!!) 3/2/10 - 44,280 - $778 - 7500 mile maintenance (oil and filter, cabin filter, e brake tested, new wipers, noise in passenger door - screw loose in speaker) 7/16/10 - ?? - $238 - drivers side window regulator (I installed) 9/14/10 - 52,689 - $173 - oil change 11/1/1- = 54,000 - $150 - battery 3/9/11 - 59,586 - $952 - 60k maintenance, spark plugs, drive belt, air filter, cabin filter, new wipers So a grand total of: $3,358 for 30k miles or $1,679/year over 2 years. I am about to need a full set of tires, and brakes are apparently getting pretty close.

now that you're thoroughly enjoying the ride...the expenses are on par. If you prefer your indi doing some work, fine. If you do the oil change yourself, you can save approx $80-100, unless you value your 30-minutes -1 hour time at that rate. changing spark plugs require some more time, but you can save a few $ DIY there too. If you have to drop the engine/trans, or DME issues, then the expenses can mount. otherwise, keep a good relationship with your indi. Shop around for tires, I have heard some good reviews on Hankook evo V12, Sumi HTRZ III's, depends on how many auto-X, DE's you participate in that will start to put a dent in the tire expense dept. also remember brake fluid and rotors/pads.

If you're really looking for tires, you should check the data on Tire Rack, but then also double check their pricing against On Line Tires . I found a set of Sumitomo HTR ZIII for $711.69 including shipping to Chicago. Sales Tax and installation not included. Actually, I went to NTB, and they matched the On Line Tire Price. The problem is that they are real buffoons about getting the tires. They ordered them late, so I missed a week, and then they got the wrong size in, so I have now missed a second week. I don't know if this ends up being worth the hassle, but I am getting them well below retail price. Of course, there are people that feel you'd be better off with the Hankooks, or the Kumho. In the end, it's your call. larry

I have really like the Bridgestones on my daily drive, and they are pretty sticky at the track. Given that I have gotten 15k per front and 30k per backs, they are pretty good on the longevity tip as well. But I am leaning heavily towards the Sumi's b/c of the price.

and.... IMHO, if you can do the window regulator, you can do 95% of what your indie has done to maintain your car.... these cars are so easy to work on. Its great you are learning to drive your car, doing some diy will just take that experience to a diff level.

I just did my rotors and pads over the weekend, very easy to do. order the parts from vertex and pelican and it took me about an hour. the hardest part was getting those little pad sensors out of the old pads. there's a great DIY on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC16WXBcE7Q

Great review/summary on your last 2 years of ownership. Agree, some DYIs will save you some $$$. You will learn more about your car and yes, these cars are easy to work on (Well, the basic stuff).

actually those are really good prices IMO....$173 oil change is only $70 more than I can do it for and at $140/hr in my area, that's 1/2 hour so really right on par. as others have said you might be able to learn some of those things but there is comfort in knowing your indy is checkig the car out too. I do my own work AND have my indy work on my car. I try to do two things....get a second set of eyes and feed his business since I get SOOO much from him. Its a good relationship and I value it over the few bucks I spend. Thanks for posting #'s

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+1. The 60k doing it yourself is about $250-300 in parts including the oil change. That alone would have saved you about $700 depending on your tool inventory.

I dont think the OP minds: "I dont feel like maintenance costs have been beating me up." I see everyone trying to save him money, (a good thing) but he's good with it. And I get that. Many people dont want hot oil running down thier armpits....

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Good point. I think some of us missed that. What's wrong with oil in your armpits...better than the BO.

I hear you Ed, things like alignment... something I like to do every 2-3 years. Nothing like an experienced eye to look over the work you've done or in general. I guess its a matter of your comfort level..... at some point you know that you can do the brakes just as good as the pros... and you gotta admit you get to know your car in a more intimate way.

Yeah, saving 50 bucks on an oil change is not super high on my priority list. But given the research I have done at this point on the break job, it seems like something that I can pretty easily do, and save a boat load of money. So I will likely do that myself. How do you determine the life on the pads and rotor? My front rotors are pretty grooved on the outside edge, seems like a telling sign.

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Ferdie: I'm surprised that you only get an alignment every 2 - 3 years, unless your tires are lasting that long. I have always gotten an alignment every time I bought new tires. Considering that tires will hopefully last 15K miles, that means new tires and an alignment every year. Are you putting so few miles on your car that you only replace your tires every 2 - 3 years? Where's the fun in only driving your car 5,000 - 7,500 miles a year? GET OUT THERE BRO!!!! larry

actually, I have 3 sets of wheels that I go back and forth with... as for buying sets, the front just lasts forever and the rears last about 7K for me. I dont really have a method for when I should do alignment (not based on mileage or change of tires) but rather just do one between 2-3 years. But you are right... I do need to drive her more often. Planning to go on a road trip with the family and tour Canada for about a month in june. In the process of putting the p-car back to family mode...

When I do the brake job, should I also bleed the brake lines and replace with ATE brake fluid? Any good "how to's" floating around?

check out these DIY's... this is a great site. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...6-maintenance/

fluid will depend on use..... for street I used Castrol GT LMA - now running Motul

Update for the last year: 5/31/2011 -63,164 miles - I started hearing a weird rattling noise out of the rear. Indi crew thought it could be the water pump or power steering. Took the belt off, and replaced the left idler roller (it felt rough) - $250 6/26/2011 - 64,297 miles - needed new tires, my Bridgestones were finally needing replaced. I really liked the Bridgestones, but decided to save some money, and NTB was having a buy 2 get 2 free sale on the Sumi HTR Z III's. - $887.00 7/14/2011 - 64,950 miles - rattle still happening. Indi dug back in. With a stethoscope, found the rattle coming from the right side catalytic converter. I still had 5 months on the standard 8 year warrant. So I ran it by the local Porsche dealer. They said "Well, if the cat was bad, we would get an error code, and there aint no error code. So the cat is fine." So I decide to drive it until the cat finally gave up and threw an error code. That happened ... 9/16/2011 - 67,388 miles - check engine light popped on ... finally. Drove it directly to Porsche shop, they confirmed it was the cat, and replaced - $free 11/01/2011 - 69,711 miles - oil change - $110.00 4/4/2010 - 75,384 miles - 75,000 mile maintenance (just the small maintenance) oil change, scanned for codes, fuel treatment - $366.17 Total for the year: 1,613.17 (given that was a full set of tires, still not bad for the year). Wives everywhere should be nervous that there old argument about expensive upkeep on these cars, is becoming frayed.

It's all relative. I'm finding that as the miles rack up on my C4S, the expenses rack up. This is no different than any other car with high mileage. I can easily justify it because I don't have a car payment! Just for a little perspective, I spent $5,585.66 on maintenance on the C4S in 2011. So far in 2012, I've spent $4,082.38. This does not include the new set of Michelin PS2s sitting in my garage awaiting warmer weather.

Dennis ... talk to me about what you have had done, and the mileage on the car? 4 and 5k is a heck of a lot more than I am spending.

Here is a log of what I've had to do to my '03 C4S

Consider yourself lucky I've spent $8,000 in the last 9,000 miles

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2010 was a fairly "normal" year. My expenses that year were $1,470.34. This included my 90,000 mile maintenance, which was $1,222.50 plus some other assorted things. 2011 was a more expensive year, coming in at $5,585.66. This included new front strut mounts and bearings at 96,595 miles for $2,012.61, an oil change, new cooling fans and resistors for $1,593.49, a new steering column switch assembly for $406.07 and a new water pump, serpentine belt and CV boot at 104,130 miles for $1,108.78. 2012 started out with a bang at $4032.38. This service was done at 108,966 miles. It included an oil change, a brake fluid flush and change and a rebuilt front differential, including new bearings and a new viscous coupling. I anticipate new brake pads and rotors all the way around before year end. As I mentioned before, I just bought a new set of Michelin PS2s. Beyond that, I'm probably getting fairly close to a new clutch. When I do the clutch, I'm planning to upgrade to the LN ceramic intermediate shaft bearing. Looks like 2012 may be the most expensive year yet! EDIT: I didn't include some mods on this list. During this period of time, I had leather repair work done on both front seats, I had seat heaters added to the front seats, I installed a new steering wheel and new gearshift **** and I completely replaced the sound system, including speakers, amps and head unit. I really don't care to add all that up right now! It might scare me to see it all on paper!

my costs for 1st year 53k. $125. Ppi 53k. $75. Replace 1pirelli p0 ebay used & balance fronts 53k. $425. Oil change ; brake flush;hood strut; clean rads @ indie 54k. $700. Replaced broken stock stereo with pioneer double din 53k. $25. CABIN FILTER first 10 min diy ! 54k. $5. Indicator bulb diy 57k. $100. Oil; air filter ;serpent belt - diy 57k. $1100. Plugs;trans fluid;window regulator;oil pressure sender;@ indie 57k. $825. 4 new sumitomo htr ziii. Mount & balance To do - alignment; brakes soon (diy)

First rule of classic car ownership: Keep all your receipts. Second rule: Never add them up.

Ha ha ... yeah I guess the advice not to add up the reciepts is good! I think my prius cost me $20 for diy oil change over the same period and 3x the miles ... but argueably better in traffic and my bike fits in the back no fun to drive though

Here is the latest: 10/02/12 - miles 82572 - oil change - $104.67 10/8/12 - miles 82836 - replaced rear tires with new Sumi Htrz III - $371.68 12/13/12 - miles 87420 - I replaced the microswitches in/outside door - $83.65 3/7/13 - miles 87525 - 90k service (oil, filter, transmission flush, differential fluid) - $593.88 4/2/13 - miles 88655 - replaced front pads and rotors - $1412.01 4/2/13 - miles 88655 - replaced both cracked and slowly leaking radiators (I should have followed through on the links to pull off the bumper and clean these, my new shop apparently, will vacuum this out on every visit.) $2524.15 total for the year - $5090.04

I do 10-12k km a year as well as track 12 days a season. Had the car since 2003 Every 4 years, oil pressure sensor. Every 2 years - new battery, major service, winter tire replacement, cats Yearly - minor service, brake pads, summer tire replacement, brake fluid 100k rotors 120k clutch/ims 130k planning motor rebuild, scored cylinder 150k planning if I don't do it with the engine rebuild. water pump, alternator rebuild, starter, transmission fluids, AOS Now aside from the above regular maintenance are all the times I've had to repaint the front or rear bumper due to my own error or the good people in parking lots that take off and leave you a surprise. As well as foolish winter driving where you crack a rad on a pot hole or even worse hitting a tree doing donuts.

I'm hoping to see not more than an average of $1,500 a year after 3 years and approximately 24k miles. My last Porsche a 1986 944 Turbo cost me a staggering $9k in 18 months. Thus I sold it, replacing it with a Honda S2000 which I owned for nearly 11 years and 125,000 miles. Cost of ownership came out to a measily $225 per month.

Here is the latest: 12/30/2014 - miles 97,975 - new battery, oil change, window regulator - $1417 4/21/2014 - miles 100,800 - new Sumitomo HTR's, installed - $786 7/2/2014 - miles 103,046 - oil filter, and replaced the other catalytic converter - $1,488 Not a terrible year at $3691. That cat replacement really hurts for a part that only helps me pass emissions tests. Are you guys thinking a clutch job is needed at 120k miles?