Coolant temperature rates. 3.4

Hello This is used to be the coolant temperature during summer (city cruise). While driving on a highway its about 80-85 celsius degrees. So my question is : Is there any issue? 2000 996 3.4 tiptronic Also... when the engine gets warm. Oil pressure drops a little under 1bar. When I switch to N gear level it goes to 1.5bar. Anything wrong with this?

As a comparison, I was driving my 996 yesterday in total stop and go traffic with an ambient air temp of 101F. My temp never went past the 0 on the 180. Yours does seem a tad high.

I just learned about the climate control computer readouts, now Im searching temps. Mine just clears the 0 on the right of it if on my ride to work (40 min drive).

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On a road trip which took me into southern AZ in July and after experiencing some extremely high ambient temperature (116F) driving conditions in my 2002 Boxster with intake air temperature running 130F+ and coolant temperature "pegged" at 226F for several hours driving in this ungodly heat afterwards back home I checked in with my local Porsche dealer. The SM took the info down and submitted it to the factory. The word back from the factory was with no warning lights there was no problem. This proved to be the case as this happened years ago -- circa 2003/2004 -- and here it is 2015 and the car/engine is just fine (with over 292K miles on the engine now). The dash gage is not a very good instrument for precisely monitoring engine coolant temperature. About all it is good for is knowing the engine is cold, getting warm, or warm. As for the oil pressure 1.0 bar is not that low at hot idle. (Like the coolant temperature gage the oil pressure gage is not a precision instrument, so that "1.0" bar may be something else.) But assuming it is 1.0 bar, that's 14.5 psi and absent any signs of distress -- like knocking, loud ticking, etc. that could arise from too low an oil pressure -- there is nothing to worry about. How "fresh" is the oil? As the miles accumulate oil gets diluted with water and unburned gasoline, mostly water, and these contaminants work to lower the oil's viscosity which can result in lower than "normal" oil pressure under some conditions. I assume the oil is of the right multi-viscosity grade, that you are not running 5w-30 or something? BTW, my Boxster encountered that 116F with fresh (< 1000 miles "old") 0w-40 oil in the engine. If you want consider running an approved 5w-50 oil (not a typo for 15w-50!). I run this oil year 'round where I live cause it doesn't get real cold -- very seldom does it even get to 32F -- and yet it can get quite warm here, in the triple digits. Just a heads up: If you live/drive in an area where it gets real cold 5w-50 is not suitable. For real cold temperatures Porsche states 0w-40 oil should be used. Let's see... be sure both radiator fans are working right. Be sure both are running and both blowing about the same amount of hot air. I have not found it makes any difference, but check the radiator ducts for trash. While it may not affect cooling efficiency, who knows what's in there and how much. If nothing else keeping these areas clean cuts down on the odds of a condenser/radiator developing a leak from corrosion. Is the cooling system fluid/pressure tight? How's that coolant tank cap? The one with the part # ending is 00 can (will) leak and let the coolant level fall. Might be a good idea to get the car in the air and check the water pump for any leak sign, along with the hoses/fitting and radiators. Check the oil/heat exchanger and the AOS for coolant leak sign, too. While I don't think there is a leak you need to be sure.

Here's a pic of a graph of my 996 Turbo's coolant temp during a ~30 mile drive home from work last night. "Hottest" ambient temperature during the drive reached 85F. I did not have the A/C on. What you can't see is the speed graph, but towards the end of the trip I had to leave the freeway an exit before my usual one due to heavy traffic. This of course forced me to surface streets for maybe 2 miles and the slower running saw the coolant temperature climbing. Some of this rise was the heat load the engine had accumulated during the previous highway speed run. With slower running and the A/C off the only air flowing through the radiators was that generated by the vehicle moving. Also, at the end of the trip I let the engine idle a couple of minutes as per the factory guidelines to let the turbos cool down. During this time the coolant temperature climbs as heat is extracted from the engine. When I shut off the engine the radiator fans had not come on. They come on at 212F and the coolant temperature had not reached but 203F to 205F. Might mention the coolant gage needle was a needle and half width to the right the "180" deg. has mark. Hot idle oil pressure was at 1.5 bar. Running "fresh" 5w-50 oil. By "fresh" the oil was just changed less than 1000 miles ago.

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It`s Mobil1 5w50 changed recently. Thats something to be done. These are not checked yet. Coolant level is not at maximum level though. A little lower than it. When the engine is warm its between minimum and maximum level. No leaks or lose of coolant. Not any visible signs either. Engine is runing smooth at 110`000 miles. Good condition. Actually that AOS part is runing out of use(semi-broken) , next week its gonna be replaced with brand new.

Not sure if you can do this on a 2000, but the 99 has a secret menu. If you hold the recirc button and the triangle for the up vent button for 5-10 sec it displays the actual coolant temp in Celsius instead of the temp setting. I do this from time to time. On highway car runs 94 and in traffic gets as high as 102. I think I saw 104 once. The ambient air temp will. Change it a few degrees here and there. At sub 0 temps maxes out at 88-90.

^^ Good tool to use in the summer. I use it all the time just to monitor my coolant temps. I'd say it is much more accurate that the dash gauge.

I am not sure if this helps, but each rad fan has a separate 30a fuse. Mine was running a little hot lately, and I noticed one of the fuses was toasted. Replaced the fuse and have both running now and temp is much better. Turn on your AC and you should confirm you have both fans running by feeling the air blowing out (just in front of the front wheel wells) both sides.

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is there a guide anywhere on here of these features? tried this on my 2001 c4 today and it just changed to saying 0.c and didn't change at all dispite sitting in traffic and my temp gauge getting up to this 20150719_142847_zpsrx1al6n4.jpg

I know the instructions are in this thread somewhere.... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-thread-2.html

my experience : https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...mperature.html

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cheers buddy will go and try this now and thought I'd copy it into here too for anyone else like me that didn't know this Porsche AC Diagnostics (undocumented, unsupported feature) The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996.... To switch from F to C: Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB! Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - Temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp?

That secret menu feature is only present in the early 996's. I do not believe this includes your 2001. IIRC the cut off MY is 1999. From 2000 MY on the menu is available.

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well I mistakenly often say its a 2001 as its registered then but its made late 2000 (uk car if that makes any difference too?) and it worked a treat on mine not drove it hard enough today or ambient temp wasn't hot enough to get the needle where it was in the above pic seemed to stay steady around 95.c today using the above trick

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Oh, ohhhh.... I see an oil thread about to begin and nobody picked up on that.