2 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRestoring the original radio harness
Leading reported evidence
Repair splices
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I've repaired the splices for constant power, switched power, and ground and they are good to go but I see a few things that seem a little off so hopefully someone can shed some light on if everything is back to its original configuration.
Leading evidence: 'Repair splices' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair splices' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Repair splices
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I've repaired the splices for constant power, switched power, and ground and they are good to go but I see a few things that seem a little off so hopefully someone can shed some light on if everything is back to its original configuration.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
2 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T005001Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Well, as I continue to undo the carnage the previous owner(s) did when installing an aftermarket stereo/amp, I've moved on to the actual head unit itself. There was an el cheapo Kenwood installed that would not power on (stuck in PROTECTED mode) so I've pulled that out and from looking at the miles of electrical tape used to splice in to the stock harness, it does not surprise me that there were electrical gremlins
I've repaired the splices for constant power, switched power, and ground and they are good to go but I see a few things that seem a little off so hopefully someone can shed some light on if everything is back to its original configuration.
This is a 2003 with Bose/MOST and originally had the CDR23 and no CD Changer so only the Black and Yellow plugs at the radio side.
1) My car did not come with a CD changer from the factory but I see the wiring harness and MOST connector underneath the panel where the CD changer would normally live. Was the CD changer pre-wired on a 2003 or did someone add that later?
2) On the Yellow plug, pin 4 for wakeup/diagnosis (white/red) splits and goes off in two directions. I traced it and it appears to run to both the CD changer harness and the original amp harness so that makes sense at a high level but the way it splits is very rough and does not appear how they would have done it at the factory. Maybe someone tried to tap in there for the aftermarket setup (no idea why) and this was their fix? Or per my question #1 above, this might have been someone's ham-fisted approach for wiring in the CD changer later...
3) On the Black plug, pin 5 (white) has a rubber "cap" a few inches from the plug. There aren't any wires coming from it and no signs that there ever were so not sure what this is or if something is missing.
4) Again on the CD changer, the MOST cable is there but it is open-ended. Does that need a loop bypass if I am not planning to have a CD changer installed? My understanding is that the full MOST loop would be one circle: Head Unit -> CD Changer -> Amp -> Head Unit so without the CD changer, I need something to bypass that node.
5) I'd like to pull the pins from the Black plug to slide some heat shrink over my repairs without actually cutting the wires. I removed the sliding yellow "lock" from the base of the plug but I still cannot get the pins out. Am I missing something?
Still a ways to go but I feel like I am making progress in getting this back to stock.
I believe you do need a loop for the fiber optic.
To get the pins out of the plug you need to remove the lock which you have already done. There there's a "catch" on the pin itself that need to be depressed to pull the pin out. Where the catch is depends on the pin. Some are on the side, some are adjacent to the part of the pin that makes the electrical contact.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.