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YOUR RESEARCHAt long last!
Reported repair
Replace shifter end
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1
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0
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Leading evidence: 'Replace shifter end' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace shifter end' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Replace shifter end', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Install because the throws were much shorter and notchier
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I suspect it had a short shift kit installed because the throws were much shorter and notchier.
Replace so getting yours done too is probably neccessary
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Im sure the r shot and need replaced so getting yours done too is probably neccessary.
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55 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T105141Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My first 911! I�ve wanted one since I was a kid. I owned a 944 and a boxster, but this feels like the
real deal.
I had it delivered last night at 10pm. It�s a 2001 seal gray c2 with 117k miles that I bought sight unseen for $14k. I expected it to be a bit of a project, but luckily it�s in much better condition than I feared. I will still be taking it to the �doctor� for a check up right away. I�m sure it�s in need of service and there are a lot of little issues that will need to be sorted out over time.
Man this thing is a BLAST to drive! Here are a couple pics...
Excuse the messy garage. It�s about to be renovated so the 911 has a nice home!
Thank you!
Right off the bat I will say that the gearbox felt much better in my 2000 boxster. I suspect it had a short shift kit installed because the throws were much shorter and notchier. It was like a bolt action rifle. More recently, a 2017 GTI was my last manual transmission car and the gearbox was much better than the 996. The 996 gearbox feels awfully rubbery and vague... I�ll have to sort that out.
Not surprising, that. Adjust the cables at the shifter first. Then, the plastic on the shift end gets pliable as it ages. Mine felt rubbery at the end of throw, even with my SSK. Replaced the shifter end and that fixed it. Click, click. If the new grip and cable tweak doesn’t help, then the ‘fun’ starts.
Welcome to the club, looks like a real nice car especially considering the bargain price! Regarding the shifter, I would suggest taking a look at your shifter cables, particularly where they attach to the transmission. Make sure they are well seated and that both clips, one where each cable sheath is secured to the trans housing, are in place and firmly seated. Also, ensure that each cable end socket is firmly seated on the lever *****, may even want to lubricate this connection while you're there. My 986 Boxster and 996 Carrera both shifted equally notchy, never vague or sloppy, and the cables are the easiest issue to investigate first. Best of luck.
i think you�re correct. It feels like a cable issue. I�ll investigate this weekend.
A couple daylight pictures... the exhaust tips look like they are sagging. I suspect this due to worn out motor mounts?
FYI I took the ugly sticker from the dealership off! I also plan to spruce up the interior a little to break up all the gray
Also remove that second key and put it in a safe place! If you can still read the numbers on the shell, write them down (or take a photo) in case you ever need to have a new one programed. Never put more than one key and a fob (not a particularly heavy one) in the Porsche ignition... It's cheap, finicky and causes all kinds of electrical gremlins when it starts to go bad. Don't forget, now that you're a owner you're on your way down the rabbit hole
Nice car, and sounds like a good deal. I parted out a crashed seal gray coupe and have the alcantara headliner, and black A and C pillar trim. I probably have some center console trim pieces in black as well if you are interested.
Congrats! Awesome car at an awesome price.
Swapping out the motor mounts is a super easy job.
I bet you can feel the extra power coming from the Boxster.
Somber update here folks... I have the car in for a proper inspection and the shop is getting a camshaft deviation reading of 11 degrees. $4800 to correct it + $3100 for LN Engineering IMSB solution. And just like that... a $14k car becomes a $22k car...
This brings me back to the days when I decided to get rid of my boxster
im pretty sure at 11* u would through all kinds of codes. Have them send u a pic if the diagnostic and post it here. Sounds like they r not reading it correctly. The solution price sounds right.
Here r my numbers and it was explained that u divide the numbers by 2 based on how the scanner interperates the numbers.
Deviation of 11 degrees sounds wrong... (like maybe they're adding bank 1 and bank 2 together). Usually the numbers even when high are between +/- 5 to 8 per bank... I suppose they could be higher, but as mentioned above you'd probably be getting codes/CEL... Just to reiterate - there's no such thing as a cheap Porsche, but I think you already knew this... The $3100 quote for The Solution is a good price - are they a certified shop? What's the $4800 for (did they give you a parts/labor breakdown)? Sounds way high for cam chain tensioner pads, & chains... Are they going to replace the vario-cam tensioners/solenoids as well?
Could be worse. Could always be worse.
They could be replacing all tensioner pads top and bottom and on both sides, but I would ask for a description of everything they are planning to do. The solenoids are right there, and that�s a common failure. It would suck to have to do one of those later on.
I will ask for a picture of the diagnostics and a breakdown of parts/labor and post back tomorrow.
I know these are expensive toys, but this is about double what I reasonably expected for upfront servicing costs. Especially surprising given how buttery smooth the engine feels. There is no CEL
When I dropped the car off I felt pressured to commit to the LN engineering solution right off the bat... I wanted to do it anyway, but the perceived pressure left me not feeling 100%
The pads are cheap ($20 - $30 per set), the chains are cheap ($30 ea. x 2), the solenoids aren't cheap but not crazy - $200 +, the actuators are the killers money wise at around $1200 - $1500 ea. (both sides are different btw...) - judging by the price they quoted it sounds like they're throwing all these parts in the quote. Problem is, if these things were really bad/broken, your engine wouldn't be running smoothly. The solenoids are easy to test...google it. Most likely all you need are the tensioner pads, and while you're there you may as well change the chains. So you've got about $100 in parts (plus whatever they put on there... 35 - 50% ?). the rest is Labor - which isn't going to be cheap - probably something like 3 hrs./side... So 6 hrs. @ $150 - $180/hr. = $900 - $1080 ? That's $1500 on the high end (not $4800...). It sounds like these guys are taking you to the cleaners - make sure you do your homework! Good luck
First nice car and excellent price. 3100 is a very good deal where are you located? I just paid double (with a few while you are in theres) You dont need the new bearing and for the price you paid it makes even less sense. The bearing fear on this forum is driven by ads and user buying in to it and it being "cheap" Insurance. For what you paid it's overbought insurance, but that's something you need to decide on your own. 11 degrees seems off get a second opinion or listen to the people on here not peddling bearings.
it absolutely feels like this shop is peddling bearings. They also told me they can�t replace the bearing unless they fix the camshaft deviation first...
They essentially said catastrophic engine failure is imminent, which feels like a scare tactic. Seems hard to believe given how smoothly the car operates, but I know that doesn�t necessarily mean anything
Ehhh i take it back, you may be getting decent advice. No point in even discussing the bearing without addressing the other problems is my advice. It's an old car and you bought it cheap. Either drive it till it blows up or accept you will be upside down.
Before I spent that much money, I would spend some money to have the bores scoped.
No need in spending that much on an engine that's going to need to be rebuilt soon.
...and yes the camshaft deviation needs to be dealt with before installing The IMS Solution.
The engine needs to be in great shape before committing to that much money.
IMHO any shop not recommending The IMS Solution is one to be avoided.
Sorry to hear that. I just bought mine last month. 01 c2 but blk interior. I paid 18k and with everything I wanted done (ims solution, rms, clutch etc etc) I spent another $2500 and after new rear tires I'll be close to $3k on top. (doing all the work myself) So I was just gonna recommend while the transmission is off the car, look at doing at least a new clutch and pressure plate, and rear main seal. Also, if there is excessive oil build up in the intake, look at replacing the oil seperator while the trans is off. Good luck.
The pressure tactic is never a good feeling...They're right about the cam deviation needing to be fixed before doing the other stuff but their price seems way out...
Welcome, nice car and sorry you may be faced with a big bill right away. Been there, done that, and it sucks. Is there a second shop near you for a second opinion? Not sure I agree with what they are telling you about the cam deviation repair cost. I had a cam actuator fail and the deviation was over 10 degrees, the actuator cost $500 but labor is the biggest factor, around $1300. Engine ran pretty ok but CEL kept alerting.
Do have the bore scoped before popping for the actuator and IMS, if the engine need rebuild all that can be done at same time. Check the AOS vacumn while you are looking at things, that' can be a catastrophic failure.
New engine mounts are DIY, easy job.
Post your location others here may be able to recomend a good indy. Also LN has a list of certified installers that u may want to find. They will do the full prequal and give u an honest assesment.
Even if you have to sink some money into it, I think you�ll have a great car for years to come.
if it were me I would do as
@TexSquirrel
said, have the motor scoped and check for bore scoring before doing anything major.
Congrats and welcome. I know the same feeling. I had a 914 as my first car in high school (a Chalon kit with Fuchs) but my recent purchase of a C4S is a 35 year dream come true. Check out my build/install thread at
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-rebuild.html
They're a well reputed shop with proper training and certification for LN solution. They did the pre-Solution required inspection. No bore scoring. But high cam deviation. Absolutely needs to be addressed. They're dropping the engine to do the work. I see two oil change charges on the invoice (mistake?). Don't pay for hood struts. 5 minute job. Engine mounts you can save by buying OEM rather than OE. DIY is very easy. Same goes for steering wheel. There is some room to save money here. It's a big bill nonetheless..
Enjoy your car no matter what the decision is!
Yes, I agree.
If you're willing to DIY, you'll save yourself a big chunk of change.
Shops make money on the parts, but they
SHOULD
make some since they're warrantying the job.
If the part fails, they have to provide the labor to swap it out.
The labor on some of that could be debated, but it is likely book time.(I don't have time now to look it up)
Do the hood struts, steering wheel & motor mounts yourself.
Use Rein motor mounts and you'll spend around $140.
Steering wheel should take you under an hour the FIRST time you do it.
Looks like the did the full IMS Solution prequalification and it passed.
I'd go ahead and have them do the timing chain guides and The IMS Solution and then not worry about the IMS bearing
EVER
again.
But expect the clutch to need replacing.
That will eat up what you're saving in DIY above.
Your cam numbers r basically the same as mine. I dont remember who explained that my numbers were not that bad. Ill try to dig up the tread.
That being said i am pulling my motor this weekend to replace the variocam pads, chains and some guides. Im sure the r shot and need replaced so getting yours done too is probably neccessary.
My thread and expaination. Not sure if it applies to yours?
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1205352-high-camshaft-deviation-numbers.html
UPDATE: The car is in the shop now. Timing chains and guides are done, they are doing the IMS bearing now. They found metal shavings in the IMS tube, but nothing in the oil. They say they THINK we got to it in time, but can�t tell if anything made it into the motor and it�s basically a 50/50 chance my engine blows up. What a wonderful feeling!
Not the peace of mind I would have hoped for after a $10k service
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