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YOUR RESEARCHDIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
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cooling lines and i layed
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
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Leading evidence: 'cooling lines and i layed' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cooling lines and i layed' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill oem engine mounts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
In addition to the oil issue you pointed out, I also suspect with restricted flow on the low pressure side (looks like the low pressure line to me based on its larger diameter compared to the high pressure line next to it), the compressor will have to work harder to achieve the set temperature.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Fill oem engine mounts
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Suggestion · Original poster
the new semi solids should be fine taking those forces I was afraid to apply to fluid filled OEM engine mounts.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Recommend esco jack stands
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Suggestion
Good point and I wholeheartedly recommend the ESCO jack stands.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Replace (e.g
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Suggestion · Original poster
If the consensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Set rear jacks
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Suggestion · Original poster
now that I have Semi solid engine mounts, I plan to jack from the rear point on each side to get each front stands in place under the designated points, then jack under central lug near engine on rear to set both rear jacks on designated points...
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Set temperature
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Suggestion
In addition to the oil issue you pointed out, I also suspect with restricted flow on the low pressure side (looks like the low pressure line to me based on its larger diameter compared to the high pressure line next to it), the compressor will have to work harder to achieve the set temperature.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
restricted flow
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
In addition to the oil issue you pointed out, I also suspect with restricted flow on the low pressure side (looks like the low pressure line to me based on its larger diameter compared to the high pressure line next to it), the compressor will have to work harder to achieve the set temperature.
DIY Mishap - Crushed AC Hard Line - Do I need to replace it?
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later.
OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal). I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend. As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business!
The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later. Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine!
My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)? Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap? If the consensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/ Desicant module, etc.)?
Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick! Be gentle...
P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?
Sorry to see the mishap. I think it's best to replace it before damaging the compressor. In addition to the oil issue you pointed out, I also suspect with restricted flow on the low pressure side (looks like the low pressure line to me based on its larger diameter compared to the high pressure line next to it), the compressor will have to work harder to achieve the set temperature.
The dryer needs to be replaced if the system is exposed to the atmosphere for some time. I think if you can replace the line quickly say in a few minutes, probably you can get away with it. The dryer is only $70 though so you may as well replace it just to be safe.
I would say for the long term - replace it. I think the crushed line in the refrigerant circuit will create a problem. From the pictures I can't tell exactly which specific line that is but perhaps this diagram will help you find the correct replacement part:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25
I think it is Part No. 1
Also, it's time to invest in some jack stands that mate to the jacking points or some other method to ensure the car doesn't fall off the jack stands in the future.
Good point and I wholeheartedly recommend the ESCO jack stands.
Amazon.com: ESCO Jack Stand - 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498: Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: ESCO Jack Stand - 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498: Industrial & Scientific
Agreed... but it was mostly a misalignment from the process I followed... now that I have Semi solid engine mounts, I plan to jack from the rear point on each side to get each front stands in place under the designated points, then jack under central lug near engine on rear to set both rear jacks on designated points... that should prevent the rocking and rotating dance it did while I tried to do each rear stand individually by jacking under the suspension cross member points... the new semi solids should be fine taking those forces I was afraid to apply to fluid filled OEM engine mounts.
You can lift the whole rear by jacking at the middle of the rear subframe member provided your jack has a reasonably wide pad to spread the load. Jacking the engine to lift the car puts a lot of unnecessary stress on the engine brace and the engine casing.
The brace is designed to hold the weight of the engine (~500lb) and not for supporting the weight of the whole rear (~2,000lb).
I hear ya, but at least that engine carrier is steel... I try to take a "lesser evil" path in cases like this (no factory designed central jacking point)... jacking on a cast aluminum cross member not designed for forces in that direction feels like the "greater evil" of the two options... or maybe I need to put the jack stands under the uni-body somewhere and leave the jacking points for jacking only... hmmm, damn I really need a lift or Jack point stands or something...
Not trying to turn this into a "how to jack our car" thread...
Steel yes but it's only attached to the engine by a few small bolts. Cast aluminum yes but so is the rest of the rear suspension frame so I'm not sure which is the greater evil. Anyways, not trying to debate, just try to point out an alternative.
