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Basic track alignment specs needed

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YOUR RESEARCHBasic track alignment specs needed

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best you can hope

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Camber on the fron of -1 degree is probably the best you can hope for with standard parts, but -1.5 degrees would be better.

Basic track alignment specs needed
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Leading evidence: 'best you can hope' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best you can hope' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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best you can hope

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Suspected cause

Camber on the fron of -1 degree is probably the best you can hope for with standard parts, but -1.5 degrees would be better.

Basic track alignment specs needed
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I was running this also with my stock suspension and it worked well.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Ive got stock suspension and wheels and need to find the preferred alignment specs for a track day on Yoko Advan A052. Everything i have found via search is on some sort of aftermarket suspension. I realize I won�t be able to get much camber up front.

POST 2Original post

front max the camber to whatever you can get. zero toe or a hair of toe out. Will give you nice turn in but a bit of nervousness on highway rear...probably 1.8 to 2 degrees of camber, slight bit of toe in. As you get fast, your tire wear will not be good as you start to beat up the outside of the tire.

POST 3Original post

You didn't say what diameter tyres you're running, but assuming 18" then Quadcammer has it right. By slight toe in on the rear, we're talking less than 10 minutes total toe, 5' per side. On the front go for no more than 4 minutes total toe in. At that level the give in the bushes etc will leave you with zero toe at speed on the track. In practice, any less than 2 minutes toe per side is hard to measure (this is 1/30th of one degree). Camber on the fron of -1 degree is probably the best you can hope for with standard parts, but -1.5 degrees would be better. The main reason for needing negative camber on the rear is to tame the oversteer encountered under deceleration, and -2 degrees should be achievable. If you have adjustable dampers then be ready to harden the rear to dial out understeer at the track, though it's really rear toe in that has the biggest effect on this for a 996.

POST 4Original post

Quotes source post: 17498091

I was running this also with my stock suspension and it worked well. Even/good tire wear considering track and driving to/from track.

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