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YOUR RESEARCHNew engine break-in : 500 miles?
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Install about a month ago
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So as you know I had the new engine installed about a month ago.
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They are first and foremost intended for service in vehicles used on the street.
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Suggestion
To recommend any other break in techniqueis to do the owner a possible injustice by having him go against what the factory recommends.
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Suggestion
Unless you have a team of race engine mechanics ready to break your engine down for replacing bearings and rings after every race I would not advise doing the whoop whoop rev it up break in.
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Suggestion
Unless you have a team of race engine mechanics ready to break your engine down for replacing bearings and rings after every race I would not advise doing the whoop whoop rev it up break in.
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Suggestion
Then once more at 5K miles (3K miles after break-in) then I like every 5K mile oil/filter services but of course this is up to you how often you change the oil/filter.
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Hi guys
So as you know I had the new engine installed about a month ago.
But after a month and only accumulating 110 miles I decided to drive to NYC and back this weekend and run an errand for my wife to get her up to 500 miles.
Start of the drive:
It was a truly painful drive over there to limit her to 4K RPM tops.
Almost there on the drive back!
And then the magic mark:
So a few questions:
is the break-in 500 miles?
What else do I need to do now that I've passed it
According to the manual, it is advised to keep the engine below 4.2k RPM until 2k miles.
I also have new engine installed and am observing the recommendation. It's not so bad as public roads seldom give a chance to get above that.
I'd treat the replacement engine the same as a new one and follow the new car/engine break in guidelines in the owners manual.
Unless forbidden by the owners manual I'd change the oil/filter now, then again at the end of break-in at 2K miles. Then once more at 5K miles (3K miles after break-in) then I like every 5K mile oil/filter services but of course this is up to you how often you change the oil/filter.
Sincerely,
Macster.
changing oil is a good idea - then after she hits 180 - play with that REDLINE a while
Actually if you search deep you will find they redline these cars right out of the gate from the factory....I know some rebuilders that wait till the "end of the driveway" till they get em rev'd up
FWIW - I doubt many of the race car motors have 500 miles on them before thier first race.... just a point of reference - and many GT3 cars used at the track only have a couple thousand miles on the cars and have been run at the track constantly
+1 on above. If it hasn't scattered by now, its not going to. Broke mine in at Road Atlanta after a few heat cycles and an oil change on the dyno, just stay off the rev limiter for awhile.
Dealer recommended 500 miles is enough...
Ah heck - it's warranted for another 2 years and get this...according to paper work - unlimited miles...so glad this thing is a daily driver for me.
I know this may be totally politically incorrect, but as she passed 500 miles, I downshifted to 3rd and as I saw the RPM's climb, and felt my back pressing against the seat, and heard the flat six letting out it's infectious bark, - I yelled out loud
"I LOVE FOSSIL FUEL"
Game I know of is seasoning the bearing with heat cycles. So long miles aren't a true break in that seasons the bearings. Heat cycles harden the bearings more so that they aren't the typical soft metal they are. So doing the varying rpm short trips wasn't that bad. Buuuutttt any excuse for a road trip works
I'm sure you can understand now the reason they say during the break in to NOT lug the engine down or do hard accellerations or engine braking. The bearings are soft before a good break in and they will not be a tight fit if they get smashed around and deformed from torque while soft.
Hey! All we get is pictures of the dash from your trip? Sheeze........
Most recent info is Porsche cut back on engine run time.
Also, the engines may be run to redline at the factory but I doubt that's on a chassis dyno or on the road with the engine having to sustain that rpm level with real loads.
And how race car engines are broken in, run in, treated don't count at all towards how an engine built and intended to power a car used on the street should be broken in.
The general rule is to break the engine in like you intend to use it but this also requires the engine be built/assembled with that usage in mind. Some engines come out of the race engine shop ready to run and develop max hp with little run in/break in time. But every aspect of the engine is with this usage taken into consideration. And long engine life (beyond the needs of the race length or season length) and oil usage, fuel consumption, emissions, noise, and so are *not* the prime considerations.
For new or remanufactured engines Porsche intends for use in street cars the factory designs and builds them and runs them in at the factory with this usage in mind. They are first and foremost intended for service in vehicles used on the street. (IIRC, Porsche in the owners manual states somewhere that use on a race track or in timed events voids the warranty). Thus the engine should be broken in as the factory guidelines provide for.
To recommend any other break in techniqueis to do the owner a possible injustice by having him go against what the factory recommends.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Unless you have a team of race engine mechanics ready to break your engine down for replacing bearings and rings after every race I would not advise doing the whoop whoop rev it up break in. That method only sets the rings. Of course it does set you up for bearing failures later on but we all have a team of porsche mechanics standing by to install a new engine